Kinarfi

The gas tank has 2 outlets at the rear of the tank, if you are headed down a steep hill with just a half tank of gas, the outlets will be above the gas and the fuel pump will promptly be starved for gas and the pressure will drop and the engine will die. The lower the gas level, the less the steepness of the hill required for this to happen. A SURGE tank is a small tank the that is used to feed the fuel pump so this does not happen, mine has a low pressure pump to keep it full and the return from the regulator returns to the surge tank. This is an idea that was borrowed from snow mobiles. Kinarfi

When I added my surge tank, I moved the fuel pump up next to the filter and also moved the pressure regulator, I also opened the gauge of the regulator and cleaned the dust out and then sealed it when I put it back together.

there are several extra wires that don't hook to anything, just make sure the ground wire at the horn mount is grounded good.

My latches broke also, but being who i am, I fixed mine, I tapped the holes in the round rod like piece to 1/4-20, made the part that catches the hook out a piece of 3/4" L with a nail welded to it and used 2 4" long bolts/screws to tie it together, easier to adjust and stronger and a lot less than $24.38 per side. photo removed, needed the space elsewhere, Kinarfi

http://news.webshots...579690123SECOgH If you're blowing fuses, bypass the fuse with something such as a light that pull some power, I like using my spot light, or you could use your fan, but head light bulbs work well, even better if you can parallel two of them. As long as the lights are bright, you have a short, when they go out or dim, you have found or removed the short. anyone know where is this "body wiring connector" next to the ECU

here is my MAP/IAT wiring looks like photo removed, needed the space elsewhere, Kinarfi

I thought I asked this already, but these shocks have no coil over springs do they? All the suspension is in the nitrogen charge, is that correct?

Just by chance, when I went to start my Trooper up for the first time after fixing the tranny, it wouldn't start, so I left it alone and figured to work on that problem later, in the interim, I noticed the 2nd O2 was unplugged, so I plugged it in the tried to start it, lit right up and I didn't have to touch the throttle. Didn't pursue the issue any further. just 2 cents or is it scents?

I tried towing Lenny once and everything went bad, sort of, I ended up dumping the clutch with a full rev and all that happened is the clutch slipped, thinking back on that, is that such a bad thing as it probably saved me from other problems. I agree that if the clutch is engaged and I floor it and it starts slipping, that's a weak clutch and it shouldn't happen, but if you let the clutch out while maintaining high revs, and it slips, is that a problem or is it in the design?

Had to readjust my clutch a couple time while putting my Trooper back together, If I had known then what I know now, it would have only taken once. The clutch cylinder is spring loaded to keep pressure on the lever, and if it is not tied back, it will extend fully, so tie it back with some tie wire when you're putting the lever back on. There is a line on the end of the clutch shaft and another line on the lever, my guess is that as your clutch wears and you make adjustment to the position of the arm on the shaft, when you get to the point that these line up, your clutch is worn out and time to get a new one, this is MY guess based on other lever actuated devices from my past, like motor cycle brakes. As you can see in the photo, I have two notches to go yet. I also got photos with the clutch in and out, not a whole lot of movement.

Yes, http://community.webshots.com/user/TrooperFolk It's an account I created prior to UTV Boards improvements that allow for photo being uploaded directly and if you want, I'll share the user name and pass word with you. but up in the right box, there is a view full size place to click on and if you like, there is also a slide show button.

I really like my General Grabber AT2 27x8.50 R14 95Q 6PR OWL http://ssl.delti.com.../GRABBERAT2.jpg , they work good on pavement and do ok off road There are other choice to look at in parts, pieces & info thread

Welcome to the forum. Before you get busy and do a lot of work, put the Trooper up on blocks and then support each wheel, one at a time and drop one end of each shock and then see how far down it will go while turning the tire and feel for the CV to start binding. I think the Trooper has all the it can handle until you start lowering the differentials. Explain what you intend to do and I'm sure someone will comment on your ideas. Kinarfi

Getting there, engine & tranny are in, frame extended, new sides are on, need to get exhaust back on, the rear fenders back on, over head cover back on and check and recheck that all the nuts and bolts are tight. photo removed, needed the space elsewhere, Kinarfi

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/567620435zRLHus

Nice looking, functional, well built, typical Lenny perfectionist build. Guess that puts you back up on throne (permanently)

here's a couple of videos and some photo, taken during the daytime, morning hours, but look at the guy in green shirt as the light comes on and off. http://good-times.we...104282158zLPKMA http://good-times.we...104282158kcUwDd not sure the camera does justice, Samsung Galaxy, probably over corrected for the brightness. Also,the last two in the series are how I changed my bed hold downs after they original loop broke. I tapped the holes in the round piece for 1/4-20 and the catch is a piece of 3/4 L with a nail welded to the edge

Got the stretch part done, just need to put the drive line carrier bearing back in, replaced the clutch line, put the center console back in, put engine and tranny back in, hook every thing up and then I can go PLAY

Those were white lights, but there gone now, the ones I have now are only 1" in diameter and several times brighter than the ones in the video. To get the tail lights to blink like mine do, you need to ad a circuit to the lights,(exclusive or gate), it's the next 2 pictures after the video, I'll try to remember to get a photo of the backup lights if you want.

Here's photos with comments of all the places my Trooper has developed cracks and/or breaks, They're all fixed now with some still needing grinding on and painting. http://good-times.we...583209825GToHTN I sort of posted this twice, then merged the two topics ooops Kinarfi

going back together, need seal for carrier bearing, man did it take grease, there was no grease zerk on it, I ended up with a whole box of them and only needed one, so if any one wants one, send my a dollar for postage and I'll send you a zerk, and I melted the clutch cable, got one coming from Casey, went down to house of hose and asked if they would fix mine, NO, LIABILITY PROBLEMS!!! so I asked how much to make one? +$90, forget you!!! I didn't like all the holes and open areas to collect dust, dirt, mud and water that I created, so I filled every thing up with that foam in a can. When I was welding up the cracks in my frame, one of them started blowing steam out, don't think that's a good thing Making another thread of where all my cracks are. Kinarfi

Tail lights, go LED, http://good-times.we...104282158MVvWow I also have 10w LED back up lights that really really work good.

I put notations on each photo, and these fotos are to show you where to look, not how to weld, so not criticism!!!, tinman http://community.web...security=GToHTN Also see my earlier post about swing arm cracks http://www.utvboard....ndpost__p__9832

A few people have shown interest in replacing the relays with P channel Mos FETs, so this is going to be my technical write up on how to do it. more is coming

If we stand side by side and take a photo, it would be easy to see why