Kinarfi

Looks and feels, but I ain't tasting it, 3 more photos, FYI for those who don't know me, I used to be 6'4", but then I crashed an ultra lite airplane and crippled myself pretty good, mostly from knees down now and some in the back, virtually no control over my ankles, left is fused, twice, and right is real floppy, so the extra room will make it safer for me to drive because I can get my feet above and on to the pedals easier.

My son has a RZR 4 seat and he took me back up to where I broke my shaft and I listened to the sound of the engine and I think I like the sound of the Trooper, the speed of the Trooper engine varies and RZR just stays pretty constant, the other thing is I can not even drive it, the one time my wife & I took if for a ride, she had to drive. My extension is coming along nicely, guess I ought to post a few more photos, inspite of how ugly some of my welds are and if any one says all of them or says anything about a pigeon flying over, I'll delete your post!!! What I did was clamp 1" X 1/2" channel iron on both sides of the tube which aligns it and weld it, the tubes that you step over to get in got a 4" piece of tube from the roll over bar and piece of channel and then ground smooth, looks good. IMHO Does having extra metal on a weld make up for it being ugly?

Since I had to pull the floor pans and numerous other items to get to where my frame needed welding, It only needed another day or two my schedule, slow, to add 4" to my leg room. Doesn't seem too hard to do, I was planning on 6", but at 4", I had pretty much used up the the excess brake line length, so I stopped at 4" and called the guy that is lengthening my front drive line and told him 4 instead of 6, glad I got to him in time. Should be ready tomorrow. http://good-times.we...104110397MQGVug Kinarfi Just a little comment, Lenny and Rocmoc both made their machines smaller or shorter, Lenny made his smaller, shorter and tighter to the point I can't even get in, never got the chance to try and get into Rocmoc's, now mine is + sized, but not as long as a T4

In one of Lenny's earlier posts, he packed the Heim with grease and wrapped it with pipe insulation, when I get done with my current project, I plan to try Lenny's heim tightening trick and then pack it and wrap it.

Well, they won't make any noise until the blow up and make a pop, but then they're dead. The best way is to measure the voltage,either measure the voltage from source to drain or from drain to ground. Another way would be to mount an LED in either of them places so you can see at a glance if it's on or off.

My definition of bus is it has a common terminal to all fuses, in our case +12v The FETs are available from all electronic suppliers but I used IRF4905 from International Rectifier for the PFETs, there is also many others, search for MOSFET P-CH Through hole TO220, TO220AB, http://www.alliedelec.com/ http://www.digikey.com http://www.newark.com The NFETs are just run of the mill fets like the 2N7000 and used to turn on the PFETs What I did was use a piece of aluminum bar to mount them on and to dissipate any heat they generate, very little, and act as the common bus, I mounted the FETs so the tab was insulated from the bar. If you're really interested in using FETs, I'd be glad to help.

did you read my thread about IAC and idling? http://www.utvboard.com/topic/2736-engine-wont-idle/page__view__findpost__p__14982 at what RPM is the tack becoming erratic?

do a google search for CAR FUSE WITH INDICATOR LIGHT here's a link that looks like the have decent price on a per piece basis, http://www.electronicsnmore.com/index.php/cPath/3_337_752 I bought the ten pack and had too many of one size and not enough of the other size, I'll probably ordering enough to have all my fuses be indicator type. They are the exact same size as what's in there now except for the bump for the indicator light.

http://www.designnot...0001/afu--l.jpg http://www.designnot...gory_Code=cfwil May I suggest you invest in some of these fuses also, It's what I put in mine and when I blow a few, I know at a glance which one blew. I like your fuse block, are they all on a common bus, some need to be independent. Here's the wiring diagram I posted with some color notation on the wires, if you go to the next photo, you'll see what I did to get rid of the relays, I replaced them with FETs, no moving parts, all solid state and I did that over a year ago and no problems. Kinarfi

Wish I had known then what I know now, I revamped the instructions of how to take you tranny apart, and added the rest of the photos I did not use for the sake of having them available to look at. The revamped instructions make it easy to pull the roll pin. I have the engine and tranny coupled back up and ready to go back in, and I only had one piece left over, a shim, hope it's not too important. If anyone knows extactly where it belongs, let me know for the next time I take the tranny apart. I still need to go under and weld all the frame cracks back together, tomorrows job. Kinarfi

Got the engine and tranny out, separated, tranny disassembled, shaft out and take apart and reassembled and ready to put back together, not that bad really. see instruction under TECHNICAL ARTICLES IN THIS FORUM http://www.utvboard....dpost__p__15261 I got a pictorial guide of what to do from Casey at JMC in the form of a PDF. file. Down load it while you can, cause if I ever need the space, it may disappear. Open Dif Inst .pdf Kinarfi

Removing MY engine and tranny so I can replace broken output shaft! I chose not to drain any fluids and remove radiator, engine and transmission as a whole, turned out quite simple, actually, and since I planned on doing some welding on some cracks in the frame, I 1. Turn the battery switch to OFF, 2. Disconnected and removed the computer, 3. Unhook all the wires, cables, fuel lines, clutch, throttle, hoses, etc. that go from engine, tranny or radiator to frame. 4. Remove radiator fan. 5. Remove the exhaust manifold. 6. Remove upper radiator support, remove lower radiator bolts. Note, My rear drive line was already disconnected by a broken out put shaft, other wise, disconnect and/or remove rear drive line. 7. Remove 2 bolts holding the tranny in place. 8. Remove 3 bolts holding the motor mount to frame, under starter. 9. Make sure your lift, hoist, or what ever is connected and ready to lift and supporting some of the weight of the engine. 10. Remove the 6 bolts holding the engine to the engine mount under the oil filter. Motor and tranny should lift out now, you will need to pull it loose from the front drive line. Now that it's all out and on the table, 11. Remove the starter and the 4 bolts holding tranny to engine and separate. Disassembling the Transmission I saved parts from each step in a plastic bag, Make sure to get the balls out with the springs, read the writing on each photo. Let me know if you think this needs corrections. Kinarfi Instructions from Casey at JMC in the form of a .PDF file http://www.utvboard....h&attach_id=774

I had just changed the oil at 12168.2km and went for a ride and put 60 more on it, so 12.2 mega meters

Who has had their front drive line out, or at least the tranny, I need some advice about what to undo next, got the wires loose, the fuel line loose, and every thing else that ties the engine to frame except for the bolts and wondering what else needs undoing before I start lifting it up and out. Any one have any advice? kinarfi never mind, called rocmoc and he says that the tranny just slips out of the drive line splines and is free.

best way to find a short like that is to take a light like the ones on the light bar or the element out of a head light that is 50 watts or so, maybe even 2 in parallel and put leads on it so you can plug it in where the fuse goes, when it shorts out, the lights get bright and you start moving wires around until the lights go dim or out and you know your in the right area. Start by looking a the wires that go or went to the O2 sensor and see how they ran them, mine shorted out right at the plug to the radiator and all it took to cure the problem was to move it and tie it down in a better place. good luck

how about a photo of you shock end and any parts & pieces that came with it, Please

This thread should be label broken trooper. The following photo were taken with my phone while I was laying under the trooper and shot from very awkward angles, I'll try to describe the area of each below the right side rear lower hiem joint below the left side rear hiem joint TOO BE EDITED

This thread should be label broken trooper. The following photo were taken with my phone while I was laying under the trooper and shot from very awkward angles, I'll try to describe the area of each below the right side rear lower hiem joint below the left side rear hiem joint TOO BE EDITED or not

Having just put new shocks on and had that problem, If you can weld, get a piece of 1/4" flat metal, drill a 1/2" hole in it and cut the outside to match the Trooper shock mounts, leaving room for the welding bead and weld it in. If you have a lathe, drill out the center of the stock bolt to 1/2" and shim the new 1/2" bolt on both sides, I have shims in mine and I think I like it that way. Depending on how wide the ball is, I would not try that as drilling the ball would be a hassle(major) and then you would have to spacer both sides of it to keep it centered. As I think about your installation, I think I like the way mine was set up with the hole in the ball being larger than 1/2" and they supplied spacers that went inside the hole and had a 1/2" hole in them. Actually, pretty slick, now that I think about it. Kinarf

Got my order, wrong part, bad advice, they sent the drive shaft instead of the output shaft and the advice was geared to drive shaft. The only good thing is that the output shaft costs less than the drive shaft. Engine and trans do have to be pulled and the transmission split. While underneath, I found 4 more cracks and one was actually a break. Not sure what to do, ought to take it to the top of hill and let it roll down empty, and then go set it on fire where it came to rest and collect the insurance seems to be what I think is the best idea. The other most likely thing will be to strip the plastics off, pull the engine and trans, I have to do that anyway, hang it in the tree by it's winch, and plate the bottom while fixing the cracks and breaks or just sell it for parts and go get something else. Pretty disgusted right now, maybe I should just drive it over a cliff, no more problems for me, ever!!!

Playing with the grand-kids today, as I take the broken part out, it will get photographed and so will the new on that I have ordered. Kinarfi

How difficult would it be to set the front drive line up to be the same as the rear, that is; single drive line with CVs and a pin to hold it onto the splines so you don't to move the engine or the diff? PS I'll know more about what I'm asking later today after I've been under the Trooper.

ordered new shaft, 154 for the shaft + tax + shipping 178.71 total Mike at Joyner said he didn't think I would need seals, and like a dummy, I didn't order any, guess I'll follow your advice and order locally. He also said I could change it out with out pulling the engine. editorial and photos to follow. Kinarfi

oil filled, coil over with reservoir, FOA 2.0, 6", light/medium valving in both direction with 200# 14 springs I was asking about air shocks, but what I had in mind was those that are designed to give extra lift when you have more load, like what you would put on a truck

Took the new shock for a ride today upMary Ellen Gulch, I am impressed, they are direct bolt in except for the mount hole, as noted. I'm happy with them, very happy!!!!! http://travel.websho...583118836BfphkV