Kinarfi

What did you put up front?

While your in there swapping computers, you could ad that wire #70 ? take off so you can see if your having a malfunction show up on the computer. If you want to do that, send me a pm and I show how to wire it if you need help. http://www.utvboard.com/topic/1834-trooper-computer-outputs-we-can-use/page__view__findpost__p__14692

Are you cracking up too?

Added http://www.norrecind...tart=1&cat=1394 or Norrec Industries then Application, then UTV, then look up joyner,they have them all copied from parts and pieces

Good deal, your's must be built slightly different than mine.

Did you check to see if the nut hits the A arm when turning

here's a link to what I did to my computer, opened, cleaned, closed and sealed it up with silicone. http://news.webshots.com/album/578529207kfHufA

it is now, thanks

Maybe, maybe not, it's just what I did and my front is still stiff, replaced the rears, that helped a lot, still looking for some fronts, kind of seems like Lenny put the nitrogen back some time ago though, so maybe it's not such a good idea, then again, maybe it is

I just posted a thread about the engine malfunction signal, it may be worth your while to hook it up and see if it tells you that the engine has malfunctioned or not during these episodes http://www.utvboard.com/topic/1834-trooper-computer-outputs-we-can-use/page__view__findpost__p__14692 Let me know if you need help, as for the actual problem, no real ideas about it, can't be rev limiting can it?

If you are interested, there is an out put from the computer to tell you if there are any faults, You have to supply an indicator light with power and then tie that into the computer harness, I used an LED and a resistor to limit the current and picked up the power from the winch, handy, and then taped it to the computer cover with the LED showing, it's wire #70 and if you have downloaded the computer wiring schematic from part and pieces, it's in the lower right of the print,

blow off the nitrogen and back off on the spring preload if you don't want to spend the money on good stuff

frequency to voltage converter and a dc voltmeter, white out the dc volts on the face and put in rpm calibrated to you engine, look up LM2907-8 chiip http://www.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheets_pdf/L/M/2/9/LM2907N-8.shtml Good luck, with a few draw programs, you should be able to make a nice dial face.

Good photo of what happens, Here's a better fix than just a shanked bolt, I tried that and it still fell out, http://www.utvboard....ndpost__p__4883 , and here's lenny's post, http://www.utvboard.com/topic/778-front-ball-joints-need-checking/page__view__findpost__p__2085 and on my fix, I found that the nut was too long and need to be replaced with a jam nut because the full nut would hit the A arm.

On my rig, the idle goes away periodically and the cure is to turn it off and let the computer reset, not sure what is causing it do this. What happens is every time I let it idle down, it idles down so far it dies or is so slow, I can tell it's even running.

Yes, I want it, PM sent.

Actually, I'm redesigning and rebuilding is, but I will take some photos for you. I had to add a splitter so I could have 2 inputs the throttle and made my own, It's a bit bulky, but it works, what have you seen for this application?

I have been browsing the internet looking for a master cylinder for the emergency brake and haven't found a good replacement yet, does any one have a good suggestion of what to replace it with? It has it's mounting bolts on a 60mm center and a bore of .549" or 14mm, but I think a little larger bore would work very well. I called Beck/Arnley and others and they are all geared for year, make and model information and can't or won't help at all when you say it has a 60mm bolt patter with a 14mm bore. Any one know what the bech/arnley 072-9544 has for a bolt pattern? Thanks, Kinarfi

I once bought an after market cruise control for my Trooper and it kept dropping out and just didn't work, so ever since, I've been trying to make one that worked, and I got it working great, still needs tweeking for top speed and bottom speed, but it works good. If any one wants one, I'll show you how to build it. It holds the engine speed constant and doesn't care what gear your in, so it is actually an engine speed controller. It even works out of gear, which I have not seen in other controllers. kinarfi

I just unpinned this topic, so it will start fading away

more information please

If anyone wants the .gpx file for our rides, send me your email address via PM. It was a great ride! I'll get some photo posted tomorrow, maybe.

Great

Mine still stock with the diff up grade and I run General Grabber AT2 27x8.50 R14 95Q 6PR OWL $90.10 http://ssl.delti.com.../GRABBERAT2.jpg and do mostly mountain trails, it handles nicely in the bush and the trails and the hills and the sand, very capable machine,IMHO # 1, snorkel & really good air filter - save the engine, #2 diff upgrade, #3 power steering #4 tires, your choice. #5 gas & go have fun!!!

I'll be there too. I may surprise you as to how my rig handles the sand. Let some air out of the tires, and I do good, and I know you have air for blowing them back up. Since Lenny sounds like a go, we'll see you at the dry camp. Kinarfi