Kinarfi

Here's a photo from my engine rebuild, there are others there also.

what did it cost for one set?

I think I may have the same problem, only cold starts though, but I'm old and retired and have learned that nothing really matters, so if it starts on second or third try, I go play and forget that it didn't start like my GMC that I climb into, put the key in, turn it, it starts, and away I go. I seldom if every crank for more than a second, if it hasn't started by then, I hit the pedal once and try again.

You're making 14.1 now, but you were only getting 13 before, right? that sound like a bad connection that got fixed by taking the battery out and putting it back in. I've seen that before in connections, that's why I say to periodically pull all your fuses and relays and sockets and plugs and such and then plug them them right back in where they came from. My philosophy is that a connection get a little corrosion which generates some heat which creates more corrosion which creates more heat which ........ until melt down. Tinman, just don't drive after reading my posts

If when you hit the key, you here the solenoid click, but the starter doesn't spin, you need an interposing relay. http://www.utvboard....dpost__p__13295

Sounds like you have it wired correctly, the battery cut off is just a battery cut off, not an emergency shut down and the vehicle will continue to run with that key out, won't start again though or any thing else until you put the key back, Here's a pain in the butt test, charge the battery by driving or charger and take it out of the vehicle, if it still drains your problem is the battery and unless those (I think you said you had a yellow top optima) optimas run differently, I doubt it, it sounds like you have a dead cell. you run at 14.1 which is normal, but with the battery in, you run 13.0, should be 14.1 also and when you shut down, it should hold 13.6 for a while as the surface charge drains off and stabilize at 12.6, each cell makes 2.2 volts, so if your only getting 13.0 while running, your overcharge 5 of the 6 cells which may or may not be contributing to the total. Take it out and set on some wood blocks and see if it keeps it's charge or take it in and have it tested. Kinarfi

please review this thread and if you have stuff here that does not apply, delete it

Take pictures and post Please

http://www.utvboard....dpost__p__13292 Battery +12v to --------------------------terminal 87 of relay #16 wire Normally Open Old wire going to -----------------------terminal 85 of relay #16 wire if extention is needed Coil Coil is not polarity sensitive Wire from engine ground to ----------terminal 86 of relay #16 wire Coil wire from terminal 30 of realy to -------starter solenoid # 16 wire Common do not use 87a - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Normally Closed Lenny Edit by Kinarfi Like This Quote MultiQuote Edit Delete Unapprove

Edited original post, reread it. What we are looking for is where is your current drain, I suspect one or two of your diodes in the alternator are blown. The last one I fixed had 3 of 9 diodes blown. You have 6 power diodes that take the power from the stator and rectify it to feed the vehicle and recharge the battery. There are 3 that take power from the stator to provide power for the regulator and the field. The alternator is supposed to make 14.2 volts and if your only getting 13, it not enough and you probably have a problem.

do you have a voltmeter that measures current? if not use a small low wattage 12volt light. WITH THE ENGINE OFF, Unhook the main alternator wire, THE BIG ONE and the 2 wire plug, now measure the current from the main alternator wire, IT'S HOOKED TO THE BATTERY, to the main alternator wire terming and again to the terminal where the red wire in the plug would go, if using a light, look for it to light or glow dimly.

Pull your fuses and relays and look at the connector prongs and look at where they plug in to see if you can see if anything has been hot and maybe even pull the box off so you can see in the back and look for melted insulation and cook terminals, it's a pretty common problem, Kinarfi

Glad to hear no one was hurt, Sad though.

What are you saying? are you going to be in the 14 a night park or the free BLM with me and maybe others?

Here's how much clearance I have, I took this photo to help decide whether or not to do the flip, I had good clearance and I'm glad I did it, would do again too.

it's all in the manual and the link for all Joyner manuals is available in the pinned parts & pieces thread as well as a lot of other good information and the link it http://www.jmcmotors...vehicle-manuals Google "inductive proximity sensor" but don't ask which one I suggest, I have no idea, I just know they are out there and they are in our trooper.

Holy cow, what happened Welcome to the forum.

I'm making plans to be there, I'll be coming down 89 past Mount Carmel, so Rocmoc's in space 14, I'll probably go for the dry camping and plan to be there on the night of 5/3 or early afternoon on the 4th. kinarfi

A sheet gasket material and add a bolt hole in the middle worked for me. I tried to figure out how to put a bolt in the ends and couldn't see an easy way, so I didn't, and it seem fine to me. I had a whistle in the manifold area once when I had hooked a vacuum to the air intake and was getting ready to take it apart and had my wife listen to it and she could hear it better and it was not in the gasket like I thought, bad hearing!!!

When i tore my motor down, my sensor was about 3/4 diameter and fixed in place, no slop for moving, the sensor is most likely and inductive pick up and there are others out there that are pencil thin which if properly mounted, could be moved forward or backward to change timing slightly, the way it works, IMHO, is there is a wide spot on the flywheel where the sensor misses a pulse and the computer uses that to sense where the pistons are, so if you use a small diameter sensor where, you should be able to move the timing slightly, as for wiring the new sensor, it probable has 3 wires, +,-, and signal, same as what's there. Remember, this is just MHO Kinarfi

My alternator is an 85 amp alternator and I can't imagine that not being enough, I think we are going to have trouble finding an easy replacement and because I know how, I recommend replacing bearings when needed and the regulator, and that can be made into a simple operation by mounting the chip on a piece of aluminum for a heat sink and soldering some wires to the back of the brush holders and maybe sawing an embedded conductor in two. As for me, I don't see getting permission from Autozone or O'Rielly to rummage through all their boxes of alternator as a strong possibility, may you know the people down there and they'll let you do that. When I talked to Orem Auto Electric, they got on the phone and talked to some other people and ran down every number on the alternator and found nothing. If anyone finds one, lets put it in the parts & pieces thread. Kinarfi

Rocmoc, I can't see you just sitting in camp, neither can Linda, unless you've had enough happy juice to waste you.

The properly functioning alternator never never stops providing 14.2 (+or-) Volt power for the running vehicle, it charges the battery back up after it starts the engine and provides power for ALL electrical needs and the battery does nothing except recharge and filter some of the ripple voltage from the alternator. The normal battery voltage is 13.6, so it effectively becomes a load to the alternator. As more current is needed, it causes the the alternator voltage to sag which is sensed by the regulator, which then applies more field current to rotating armature which produces more magnetic field which causes the stater voltage to rise which brings the output of the alternator back to 14.2 (+or-) Volt, as less current is needed, same story, this all happens too fast to even be seen without test equipment. If the battery is removed from the system, it will make no difference until the battery is needed to start the vehicle and give the alternator it's initial kick to get the magnetic field started in the rotating armature. Kinarfi

I had to replace one of the spider shims also and was lucky enough to find a perfect replacement at a local drive line shop, He thought they came out of a toyota rear end. I didn't bother with the lock nuts, just used lock tite. Kinarfi

If it is bad, you can send it to me and I'll replace the regulator for you, or you can buy one and do it yourself, just ask for the information and I'll send it to you. I did the same for Steve and you can read the thread. The alternator needs a kick from the battery to get going, and a signal that the key is on, the two wires of the plug in or in Steve's case, it gets it's kick from the red battery cable and key on signal from the plug Via a resistor and the two wire plug in. . In my testing, once the engine is running, you can disconnect the battery and it will keep running on alternator power alone, this happened by accent to Lenny when his Master switch broke and dropped the battery out of the loop, He ran who knows how long, but after he shut down for a break, he couldn't start back up, so you can start the vehicle, turn the master off, and it should keep running if you alternator is working, I'll test this theory today. Kinarfi