Kinarfi

I found an app to flip my video so I could upload it, here it is; http://youtu.be/zC1WHuDtA-8

You bet, sooner or later we will meet up and dual it out. In my opinion, the addition of an HID to what I have would be ideal, my lights are great for about 100-200 yards and I think the HID would be good for further out lighting. I'm trying to find a way to flip upside down video and then I'll post it also. Sorry for the theft.

I'll make it a point to drive to the top of a local hill and point my Trooper your way and turn the lights on at 12:00 sharp, so be sure to go up on a hill and look my way tonight.

I believe the bolts I listed are correct, but not absolutely certain, 99% sure though, Lenny posted the instruction for the Kit some where here and he says to also dimple the bell around the pin to help hold it in, use your best judgement as to whether to do it now or wait until you find a Kit. Did you look at my http://travel.webshots.com/album/572841867xLhWzo pictures?

Went for a ride down by Kanab met up with my son and we went for a night ride to see how my light bar worked, I made 2 videos, but I held the phone upside down on one of them, so that one doesn't get posted, here's the good one, http://youtu.be/uKBRTBaxWCs

until Lenny gets enough orders to build some more, go to McMaster Carr and order a box of Metric Class 12.9 alloy steel socket head cap screws with some shank on them. then cut part of the bolt off and grind the head off a little so it clears all the stuff inside, that's what I did before Lenny came up with the Kit. It will keep you from destroying a differential. It seems like the screws were 8mm fine thread, but I'm not sure about the size, but definitely fine thread. here's what I think I got 25 8mm x 40mm 96144A227 $8.28 http://www.mcmaster..../96144A227L.GIF I found the best way to grind the heads down was the put the bolt in a drill and spin it as you grind it on a grinding wheel.

Lenny is correct, the computer, Usually, handles turning on the relays, but yes it can be done, sorry, wasn't thinking clearly, it would be possible to put a switch in to bypass the computers control of the relay or interrupt the computer control of the relay with an inline switch. kinarfi

If I read this correctly, you're trying to bypass what the ECU does, the injectors and the ignition come right off the ECU with no relays in the middle, go to http://www.utvboard.com/topic/392-parts-pieces-and-information-for-our-troopers-joyners/page__view__findpost__p__475 and then to the bottom and download the 1100 Trooper T2 ECU Wiring Diagram.pdf file. another place I put that is Kinarfi

both sensors are wired the same on the sensor side, hope this takes care of you.

Glad I could help, I'm not sure you can shoot your horse any more, seems I heard the horse lovers have got the rights for a horse about the same as a cat or dog, so go behind the hill and around the corner before you shoot your horse and hope no one has the phone camera on you as you do or you'll probably end up in prison, but, to the best of my knowledge, Trooper fuel pumps are NOT protected, YET.

You should take a look at this album http://news.webshots.com/album/578529207kfHufA

before you shoot it to death, call me,801-358-8166, if you're tricky, patient and clever, you can cut it apart and put it back together with epoxy and theoretically, save a few bucks, if you don't want to mess with it, send it to me and I'll try to fix it and keep it for a spare, you could try putting some acetone in it and maybe that will eat the varnish inside and revive it. USE a hack saw, not a pipe cutter, You can cut it in two by cutting it about 1/4 inch toward the center from the ring near the top, this gives you some surface to epoxy to and hopefully you still have room to reach inside and push the brushes out of the way so the armature can be put back in. Kinarfi

Here's how the pumps work, not just the bosch, but most, if not all, of them. Kinarfi

I'm sure Bosch has enough of the other green to survive

Showa sent me his dead pump and I cut it open and the insides look like the it had some green as if the it was full of gas and allowed to dry out, I ran some very fine sand paper over the commutator and got the armature back into the brushes and it spun right up. Too bad I can't put it back together so it's usable. Interesting construction, there is a shaft through the center of the armature that is stationary and the rest of the armature spins on that, never seen that before. Kinarfi

do some kind of protection on your connection plugs also

Welcome Merchant Mariner, is there still a battle of words over there at RA? between Joyner owners and other brands? That what drove me away, Please take the time to fill out your profile so we can all get to know you a little better. Again, Welcome, KinarfiMerchant Mariner

and put a vent hole in the cap

There is also a resin that you can pour into you tank and then rotate you tank so it flow into all the corner and over the area that's leaking, then let is cure, Looked at for my motorcycle gas tank years ago, I suppose it's still around. Kinarfio

I forgot about them, I'm running the General Grabber AT2 27x8.50 R14 with no problems, so I can't give you any advice.

have you been able to find such tire?

Also, if it you want it to last and it does not have a snorkel, put one on and get rid of the stock air filter, immediately!!!!!!! Kinarfi

Welcome Jason, What part of the Rockies are you in, Please fill out your profile so we can get to know you better,unless it's in really good shape, 7000 seam a little steep IMHO Kinarfi

Steveoz sent me his alternator so I could see if I could revive it, I was successful, If your windings look good like in the first picture, it can probably be fixed with this method. I found an 8 pin regulator chip that requires no additional parts, except for a 1000 ohm resistor that needs to be put in line with the alternator plug, red wire only, the white wire should be disconnected. The housing for the original regulator has an embedded wire that needed to be cut, so I drilled into the housing and ground it in two with a dremel tool. The original regulator had 3 auxiliary diodes that the new regulator doesn't need and they were already fried anyway, just had to replace one with a piece of wire, as per the design.The red wire of the alternator plug supplies the alternator with the start up power when the key is on, but needs a resistor to limit the power in and prevent feed back which could possibly provide enough power to keep the engine running. The white wire carries a signal to computer- ( I think that's what it's for ) but because I do not know for sure, I recommend disconnecting it using the method shown in the pictures. The dash warning light seems to be powered by the computer and goes out when the alternator is putting out voltage, once it is running, the plug can be disconnected and it will keep working and the light will stay out. The chip is a L9911M and I bought 3 of them from Digikey Electronics http://www.digikey.com/ for $10.96 each + tax and shipping. I did a photo journal about it if you want to do it your self or you can ask me to do it for you. This is the first of about 20 photos. Kinarfi

Please Robert, take photos progressively as you tear it down. maybe even video it.