Kinarfi

Carry some extra cable and make sure you the snatch block so you can double the cable back to rig, the winch isn't that strong, most powerful when your spool has minimum cable on it. you might even want to get a 2nd snatch block so you can triple the cable.

I looked for some info on him, nothing, my computer died recently and I lost lots of info, sorry

Disassembled the regulator and cleaned it all up, now I'm waiting for some parts to put back in and then I'll seal it up and put it on my rig and see what happens. Started new thread, http://www.utvboard.com/topic/2577-alternator-regulator-replacement/page__view__findpost__p__13642 Kinarfi

Hi Trooper Folk! Steve sent his dead alternator to me and I've been doing so studies of alternators and found that the voltage regulator in them has become an elaborate complicated work of art. Used to be a relay that open when the battery voltage went about 14.2 and closed when the voltage went below 14.1 (+ or -), now it looks at every little sine wave coming out of the windings and reacts to that, plus the temperature of the battery and the amount of current being drawn and the speed of the rotor and who know what else. I read that MAN tends to complicate even the most simple thing, I happen to agree with that. Any way, as i opened up the alternator, I found the three diodes that feed the regulator were fried, shorted, thus shorting out the stator, which may have over loaded the regulator until it fried also. Now I'm going to, 1 build an analog version so when the voltage is under 14.2, it sends more to the rotor and when the voltage is more than 14.2, it sends less. plus I ordered some sample alternator voltage regulator chips from ONsemi, the samples are free, but the shipping and handling is $11.00. I took photos, doctored some of them and put them in the Trooper web shot After I looked at some of the photos, I decided I better go clean up my bench Kinarfi

Nice job. Just as I would expect from you kinarfi

35 to 50 would be my guess, you have the fuel pump and the fan, that's maybe 10 to 15 amps, head lights, another 10 amps, brake lights, 6, over heads12.

I've torn a few alternators apart and they are very simple, the copper winding, the rotor and some electronics to control the voltage. I bet that if the stator and the rotor and not burned up, it wouldn't be that hard to adapt the controller of a chevy or similar to make work again. If you want, I'll give it a shot for you. Kinarfi

Actually, that's is the correct number, the way they use it is to put a short piece of 5/16 or 3/8 on first, then slide the 1/2 over that and clamp it, that way the hose fits the fuel pump inlet. A; ;east, that's the way mine is. They also did the same trick where the oil from the air oil separator drains back into the pan on mine. I think the best fix is to get a 1/2 to 3/8 brass fitting and use that to match the two different sizes of hose fittings. Kinarfi

That wasn't dirty, was it? You dirty dog!!!

When you say "starts right up, runs fine" that's when you turn the key on, not just hook it up and it does shut down with the key, right? I'm wondering, just how good is a Hayg pump. Is there a possibility that you have water in the gas? Send me you bad one so I can test it, if you want, I won't damage it with out getting back to you for permission and I'll send it back if you want. Do you have the equipment to test for resistance, volts, amps, etc. The way these pumps work is they move the gas past the armature, the bearings and the brushes, I suggest mounting it vertically so if you DO have water in your fuel, it can drain back out if it's in the pump when you shut down and if there is a strong possibility that you have debris in the tank, maybe a filter ahead of the pump, I prefer and have my filter after the pump in case the pump adds debris to the fuel. As for Rocmoc's suggestions, do check for voltage when off and that the ground wire has a good connection to ground, I doubt that a low voltage would be there via damaged wire, the pump needs too much power for leakage current to damage it. I lean toward contaminated fuel or jump pumps, but just sitting for a week shouldn't kill even a poorly built pump, and these don't look like junk. How much alcohol is in your fuel? What do the sales people say? Kinarfi

The over head lights are 35 watt, but single elements, I had to go online to find replacement, what is the exact number on the old bulb, it can probably be ordered online. After we figure this out, I'll add it to the parts and pieces thread. As far as the overhead light go, I may be selling mine and I have the two extra bulb also. Changing over to LED lights, but that another thread. Kinarfi

Finally remembered to take some photos, Doctored them up by adding notes and arrows, I lied about the size of the wire I used, looks like I actually only used #16 awg stranded THHN.

it was factory.

http://www.utvboard....dpost__p__13292 http://www.utvboard.com/topic/2258-technical-articles-in-this-forum/page__view__findpost__p__13295

One more little comment, when you hook your wires to the relay, if you have a soldering iron, solder the wires to the relay rather than using the slide on terminals which have created so many problems in other areas, and you don't really need the #12s for the coil, #16 is ample but #12 is definitely recommended for the contacts. Kinarfi Looked at how I did mine and # 16 wire seems adequate, 12 is probably a pain use, sorry if you already took my advice. see post #38 Kinarfi

I have a spare starter, but I don't particularly trust it, it seems to me that it just didn't give me the out put that I needed, that is, it didn't seem to spin the motor fast enough, it's been quite a while since I changed it out. May you just have a weak on or a bad winding on it. have you had it tested by any one such as O'Rielly or Autozone check it? Maybe I need to have mine tested. Good luck, let us know what happens, Kinarfi

I will try to remember to take some photos tomorrow, but you only need a 12 v, single pole relay, one of the relay contacts goes to the battery, either from the battery terminal on the starter or at the master switch. The other relay contact goes to the solenoid. I used #12 wire from the battery to the relay and from the relay to the solenoid. The wire that was on the solenoid goes to one side of the relay coil and the other side of the coil goes to chassis ground, preferably on the engine. After doing this, I have not had an engagement failure of the starter solenoid, about a year or so now. Kinarfi

When you get inside the diff, if you find the slider that locks it has rounded shoulder, you can turn it around and wear out the other side before you have to replace it. Kinarfi

After you get any cracks fixed, and every thing put back together, wrap some tape around the axle so you can see if it's making contact with the swing arm. If it gets scrubbed off, you need to shorten your limit straps. When I have my Trooper up on jacks, wheels unsupported, I make sure I have about an 1/8 inch clearance between the axle and the swing arm. If you take your axle apart to the point that you can measure the length of it and post it, some where it was said that there are some that were shorter and some longer, I don't know the measurements, but some one should. My problem was often the internal C clip would pull out of the axle bell at the wheel. What happening with yours? Kinarfi

Have you got any thing against Utah????

to separate the diff cases, I blow air into the vent hole, works great

OK, guess that's DUH!! I should've known. Thanks

good response, so are you a company or an individual? and what does MMA stand for? Googled it, boxing of some sort?

One thing I didn't like about our injector system, is that if anything got past the pressure regulator, it was stuck in the fuel rail forever. What I did was drill a small hole, very small, in the end and put some brazing on it so I could solder a small barbed brass fitting on it, solder won't stick to stainless, and then drain the flow from there back to the tank, that way if it had filled with water over time or something else, It now has a way out. Kinarfi

So tell us about your self, who, what, where, how, etc, or are you just a phone number