Kinarfi

Hi 2scoops, Here's a photo of my flip, it clears the stock deck just fine, but if your looking to stay below the frame tubes, I'll need to check, Let me know, PM coming Kinarfi

When Lenny & I were out one time, Lenny was going along fine until we stopped for a break, that was it for a while, His master switch key had broke and disconnected the battery. He had been running on the alternator only with no battery, I recommend carrying an extra key for the master switch, I made one out of steel, http://www.utvboard.com/topic/1830-dave-needed-master-electrical-switch-key/page__view__findpost__p__7536 I suggest you either get one or make a copy before the plastic one breaks. After rewiring my Trooper, the alternator goes to the start solenoid, then the master switch and then the battery. Not sure how you would lose the alternator and run off battery only unless you alternator just quit. Kinarfi

Wow, took it out the other night and they work great, but I did scare my self. I was working on one of the methods to increase the voltage to drive the lights when the load resistor burned out and because there was no load, the output voltage went to 200+, then when I went to unsolder the resistor, the charge on the capacitor discharged to the tip of the soldering iron with a real nasty pop, at that moment, the tunes I was listening to quit and I thought I had tripped the breaker, then I noticed the lights were still on and the soldering iron light was on and the computer was off, it was tied to the circuit via the PC oscilloscope that I was using. The computer would not turn back on, so I disassembled it, cleaned the dirt and soda spills out of it, found the little Real Time battery holder had a loose solder connection, fixed it, reassembled and wooo hooo, it worked. Had Me Real Worried for a while. Plannint set the middle 4 lights up for a tighter beam spread and leave the outer 8 lights at a 60 degree spread. Can't wait to meet up with Lenny some night and see how do compared to his HID lights. Kinarfi

Do you have any photos of your linear actuator and how much it cost to put on, sounds like a real good idea.Kinarfi

Do use a GPS and if so, do you save your tracks? If you have a .gpx file from your ride, I would like to see it. Kinarfi

I've been playing with LEDs for quite a while and finally found some I really like and so I decided to make a light bar for my Trooper and do away with the stock unit. Here's some photos of what it will be, just need to get some parts in so I can power them up. It has 12 LEDs, each one is 10 watts, 600 lumens for a total of 120 watts which is almost as much as the stock light bar and 7200 lumens. I have it set up so I can run just the center 4 or the outer 8 or all 12. Right now it is plain aluminum, which acts as a heat to get rid of the heat so the LEDs don't fry. Does any one know what effect painting it black will have? Black radiates heat best, but the paint may act as insulation. The inside will stay bare, I only want to paint the back and out side. Kinarfi

looks good, if I were to change any thing, I might put a 5 amp fuse ahead of the switches. If I was to change a bunch, I'd throw the relays out and use FETs, but that's just me.

Just opened the updated forum,First impression, looks great

Done, Kinarfi

Take a few photos & post them. Kinarfi

I reread your posts and you said you direct wired your fan, what about the fuel pump, have you direct wired it also? It may be in the process of melting the same as the fan. I have never been a big fan of push in fuses, they don't have enough contact area and if they get hot, they lose the contact pressure and get hotter yet and it keeps going until melt down and I think the fuse blocks in our rigs suffer from that. Just about every one has had a fuse or relay socket melt. That's why you need to pull and reinsert them from time to time, to knock of any accumulated dirt or corrosion, IMHO. Kinarfi

Google "P Channel Mosfet" and take a look at images, that's what they look like, just a power transistor. They work just like a relay if wired correctly and need to be mounted to a heat sink just for safety sake so they don't fry during turn off and turn on. To turn them on though, you tie the gate to ground instead supplying power like you do for the coil of a relay to turn them on, so to replace the relay, you need a PFET and an NFET or NPN transistor to invert the turn on voltage and ground the gate. The nice thing is that there is no plug ins, it's direct wired so they don't corrode and heat and the IRF4905 can handle 50 amps safely. I serious doubt that it will help with your surge problem unless maybe your losing power to you fuel pump momentarily, but you said it's already hard wired. If you really want to replace the relays with FETs, let me know and put it together for you for costs. kinarfi

just the before relay is enough kinarfi

If your trashing your old flasher, can I have it so I can disassemble it, maybe redesign it and if I'm successful, I'll make one for you too. The one in my Trooper puts out about 16 - 18 volts when it's not blinking which says to me that it has something weird inside it. Here's the schematic of the flasher wiring, according to the manual, I looked at the link Lenny supplied and from my experiences with flashers, it may be a simple change of flashers, I don't think they're all the same, this may be the answer, http://www.bugmanweb.com/gsxr/gsxrimages/flasher/flashfixdiagram.gif, just add a resistor in parallel with the lights because our signals don't pull enough power to get a good heat into the flasher like the bigger bulbs used in cars, this will be more true if you changed over to LED lights or get the electronic flasher which does not care how much current flows. Kinarfi

No apologies needed, thanks for sharing what you've learned from changing you system, that was an excellent answer. Kinarfi

The throttle position sensor doesn't matter ??? Isn't the TPS used by the computer to know how much gas to inject?? plus the MAP / IAT??? Kinarfi

That's not what he said, he said " it’s looking more and more unlikely that I wont be able to make it" .. I love double negatives and that's a double negative which is a positive. I used to tell my wife, when dating, that I won't do nothing, and did something, so, unlikely won't equals likely will. Sorry for picking on your English Brostar, just wish that's what you were really saying. Kinarfi

A little math from kinarfi, assume gas will be about $3.50, $135/3.50=39 gallon and at 9 mpg (actually Less) that's 350 miles and it's 716 mile to North Glamis, one way, That $135 would get me a 1/4 of the way there, which would definitely help, but what worries me more than the fuel bill is the dependability of my rig. But then who knows, every thing is subject to change, so no promises, to be or not to be - there - . Kinarfi

Here's a method that I used once when my nail bars couldn't get it done, bolt a chain around the CV with enough hanging out so that you can get about 3 or 4 feet of slack chain, then with gloves on and slack in the chain, yank the chain straight away from the differential, works just like a slide hammer, I recommend at least a 1/4 inch chain, the heavier the chain, the more kinetic energy, the harder the pull on the CV to make it pop off. Be sure to put some grease on the C clip when you put it back together, and I like to put some sort of dirt barrier between the CV and the diff. I use a piece of 1/2 polyurethane foam cut into a ring and it seems to work well. Kinarfi PS, Where do you live?

please re phrase what you're saying, are you trying to get the axle off the differential or are they out and you want to split the diffs? Kinarfi

Did some research and it appears that electric super chargers are a hoax and a waste of money unless you get really really serious and expensive, like extra batteries and really heavy duty motors. Kinarfi

hey Lenny, how much of a pressure increase do super charger provide and do think electrical super chargers or blower would work or are they just a gimic? Kinarfi

Just looked at the schematic and the electric 4X4 actuation unit defaults to 4X4 engaged when no power is applied, you apply power to disengage, so a simply toggle would do, except you wouldn't have the indicator light. This info is just in case you need to riding and don't get you switch installed. Kinarfi

dash switch, toggle would be ok, seems like a single pole switch is all you would need because it defaults to not 4X4 when no power is applied, but can't remember for sure.

Here's an idea for some one to explore, electric super chargers., there is a bunch on Ebay.