Kinarfi

This is what my rear end looked like and even with that piece missing, I think it would still be a usable differential because the forces are being directed toward the sides (left and right of the photo) of the differential , so the fact that yours didn't break out a piece, your probably all right, but more pictures from the other side would help us advise you. Be sure and find the little set screw that goes in this hole, it may still be in there and just backed out enough to let the shaft move and cause damage, and when you get around to putting in for the last time, lock tite it because it is the only thing holding that shaft in place, unless you do as Lenny says and put punch marks around the other end of it. You'll probably find this bearing has froze up, if so, pop the seals off and wash it out real good, it will probably free it up, I took the seals out on my replacement diff so oil can circulate freely thru the bearing. Note to all, when separating the differential housing, put all the plugs back in and blow air into the vent tube. Kinarfi

I'm afraid it is a known issue, there is a kit on ebay to upgrade it to stronger bolts (12.9 instead of 8.8) plus it has shims for tightening up clearances, No one has had problems once they have installed the kit. Item number: 200668741046 $95.00 This is an excellent forum for troopers and there is lots of information for the reading. Here's my photos of my differential failure. Welcome, Kinarfi Also, If you will fill out you profile so we can all get to know you a little better, it may turn out that one of us live just around the corner.

Another thing you can do is get rid of all the nuts and use nut clips, then all that is exposed underneath it the screw head or bolt head. I got mine at McMaster-Carr. http://images1.mcmaster.com/Contents/gfx/small/94850a150p1s.png?ver=19733236 Kinarfi

Definitely NOT, It has an end of travel switch that shuts off the motor when it has done it's job. A toggle switch would burn the motor up if you didn't turn it off right away. If you pull the motor, send it to me and I'll see if it can be rebuilt and salvaged, Mine failed, so I took it apart, fixed it, and siliconed really good so it couldn't get water in it. Kinarfi

uhh rick, that's good info, but what are the dates? 20 to the 23 of what month, April 2012? That would be Fri to Mon. Never mind, looks like MR. Rocmoc got the job done, good going! Kinarfi Got a question, what if you're a poor old cheapskate and/or don't want to spend the 108 or 216, can you just drive off into the surrounding hills and camp? or does that get you some kind of a ticket or fine? As for me, I have not decided to come as of yet, probably won't.

I run the General Grabber AT2 27x8.50 R14 95Q 6PR OWL $90.10 http://www.generaltire.com/tires/Grabber-ATsup2-sup with 8 -10 lb up front and 12 - 15 lb in the back and I just ignore the long tall hills, I have to gas it on a lot of the up hills, but I do have fun in the dunes. My son just got a new RANGER RZR® 4 800 ROBBY GORDON EDITION and it only out does me by a little, I've been to the Little Sahara Dunes a couple of time and it does better with the General Grabbers and the stock mud tires. I love the General Grabber for all around playing and highly recommend them. you just have to use the 6" front rims, I don't know how they would mount up on the 8" rear wheels, might do fine. The Grabber are said to be as close as you can get to BFG Tires without patent violations, but BFG doesn't make a 14", so Grabbers it is. I didn't air the down last time out, but I'll try to remember to on my next outing. My advice, go any way, let some air out of the tires and learn what you can't do, then don't do that, but for ridge running and such, you'll be fine. I did get stuck a few times as I topped the ridge at an angle and the rear went side ways, but if you don't dig yourself a hole, just back out and get a better run at it or find another spot. It's all fun! My engine is stock. Kinarfi 27X8.50R14LT 95Q C OWL 5684400000 26.5 13 28.6 50 8.6 (7.0) 6.0 - 7.5 16/32 784 1520 This is the only 14" they have

Where do you need limit straps if you are still running the stock shocks? Kinarfi

Take some fotos and send them to me and I'll add them to mine so they can be shared, especially if you find some new information and if you need help and I can give it, let me klnow. One thing I did for powering up the fan and fuel pump was to replace the relays with high power FETs, NO moving contacts. I'll be looking at the main relay now that you have brought it to my attention. Died you say there is power to the ECU all the time or just to one of it's fuses. Did you download the Trooper wiring Diagram schematic in parts and pieces under manuals? Did a copy and paste of the PDF and created a drawing of the information Kinarfi

Looks like a good place to ride and see the sites, fenders, I broke one of the front fenders on an aspen tree, and since they were to small any way, I replaced them with several different things and settled on these made out of a roll of plastic, they may not be the most elegant, but they DO keep the mud off, and more importantly when driving where the cattle or sheep have been, they keep the poop off too!!! Now all that gets to me is the splashing if I'm going too fast. If you like, l'll take some more detailed photos. Here's some photos of gumballs fenders, Kinarfi

Thanks, rocmoc, added your info to the parts and pieces page. I may just up and order some, you don't happen to know the size or order number for doing the front end do you? Kinarfi

Yea, I was just gonna tell ya that that was probably how to fix it. Kinarfi

The place that I found front lockers most beneficial is when I'm going up steep hills that have alternating dug out holes where one wheel lifts off the ground or has low traction and even more so when coming down and using the engine to keep things slow, I just about had a run away once when coming down a hill and the front tire lost traction which allowed the other to role freely so I picked up speed real quick!!! Kinarfi

This is my best guess, but if you want to use the one of your 2009, assuming it's like my 2008, you feed it with a hot and a ground and then the out from it goes to the signal switch and to the light, maybe that a DUH! If you would like, I'll look at mine and let you know which is which and what is what. Kinarfi

Where are you getting your gas, may I suggest 100LL aviation gas for about $6.50, probably what your getting anyway. http://www.airnav.com/fuel/local.html kinarfi

Thanks, he already sent them to me, What I do also is to measure the voltage to the motor and adjust for 0 volts to the motor. I plan to tighten my mounting bolts also, may even add another U bolt. Kinarfi

While I was out at the dunes, my steering started pulling to the left, I hit a bump and it fixed, then came back, something to work on tomorrow along with figuring out how to put my new heater core in. Did a fair amount of 4X4 + Lockers and no problems being able to turn the steering wheel and hold it there. My son got himself a RZR 4 seat and it out climbed my on the hills, I have a slightly tighter running radius, seems like a fine machine, but when I went to take for a ride, I could barely get in behind the steering wheel and there was no way I could get my foot on the gas pedal and even worse for the brake pedal, so the wife drove, for me it's still the Trooper!!! Kinarfi

I just got back from a week at the dunes, showered, went through the mail and emails, read up on the forum, and dug up this thread, I have 10202.8 Kilometers now. Tues thru Sun at the dunes and only got stuck once and no problems with the Trooper. YES!!!!! Kinarfi

Just another friendly atver, don't know if I even got his name. Yea, big mountains, love 'em, and it's always an adventure to find out what's on the other side, seeing the same old stuff gets boring, I wanna see new stuff!!! Kinarfi

wouldn't start when cold because compression was so low because the stock air filter is junk, replace with k&n, and in a bad place, snorkel your trooper to get clean air, and I got a fine dust in the engine that wore down my rings. Look at the rest of the photos in that album. Kinarfi

When I got there, I was quite disappointed with the looks of every thing, but ended up staying 3 nights and riding for 4 days, These trail are NOT fire roads, no problem for our Troopers though. I have found that my Trooper eats up trails to easy and fast, that what take quad riders day to do, I do in a day, maybe I don't stop and spectate enough. Rocmoc, Lenny, I'm sure you'd like this area, there is a great county camping area with rest rooms after you get past Ophir that can handle Rocmoc's rig. This is genuine mining roads and some of it is STEEEEEp. Lots of junipers, pines, aspens and rock and cliffs and mountain tops. http://rides.webshots.com/album/581565755itjeRf If anyone wants a .gpx file of the 4 days rides, PM me with your email address. Kinarfi

I'm sure replacing all the wiring with a heavier wire would help, maybe even eliminate the problem, but the relay was just easier, The relay I used was just a cheap relay I had on hand, I siliconed it to a piece of aluminum and secured it with a tyrap. I also soldered the a wire to each terminal for easy connection and covered all that with more silicone for corrosion protection and electrical insulation. When I rebuilt my engine, I took a bunch of photo before I started undoing every thing and here's a few photos of what I did. , remember, it's glued to the aluminum bar. Kinarfi

Had that problem, put an interposing relay in. That is take a small relay, (10 to 20 amp), and pull the wire that activates the solenoid and use it to activate the relay. Then use some #14 wire that goes from the battery side of the starter to the relay and then to the solenoid where the starter wire was. The problem seems to be that the wire used to activate the solenoid is too small and too long to supply enough current to get the solenoid to slam in hard enough to make good contact for the starter motor. I haven't had a problems with this since I added the relay and it used to happen all the time, I got to a point that I always stopped on a hill. Kinarfi

I kind of hyjacked my own thread, Oh darn! Found my problem, I checked my compression with the engine running and notice #1 plug was sparking around the top of plug seal / boot part of the long spark plug plug, I guess that's what you could call it, any way, got to looking at it and pulled the soft rubber piece off and it had a nasty little carbon track that was taking the spark away from my plug, so I scraped it off and wire brushed it and then cleaned it and put it back together and then applied silicon spark plug boot release and put it back together and problem is gone. =

Yes, ring gaps do not line up, I'm suspecting one of my valves is way out of adjustment, when the people that did my head and valves tried to adjust the valve, they ground off some of the valve stem to get the correct clearance, but that doesn't work with the chery engine because there is not enough stem above the keeper assembly. Maybe someone can come up with an extended stem and we can replace all the shim puck with the same thickness plus a few thin shims (.002+.004+.008+.003) and then just file or grind the stem to get the valve clearance we need and as they wear and get out of tolerance, we could remove some thin shims under the puck to bring it back into specs, I hear that as they wear, the valve clearances get too tight. Rock crawling is not really my thing, sand is OK occasionally, but mostly I like mountain roads, an ideal trail would be just wide enough for my Trooper with ups and downs and twist and turn and lots of flora and fauna, but not wide enough a 4x4 truck and until I get my front shocks redone for a smoother ride, a little on the smooth side. My present stock shocks are way to harsh on rocky ground and it seem like they compress some, then slam back to fully extended with no dampening, ICK. Kinarfi

I hesitate to use the word lemon, but being as my compression on cylinder one is 0 except for when it's revving up, then it's 120, so I need to do it over, 2 & 3 were 75, then my tester broke, so I think I'll just go buy one and start over. But maybe we can change lemons into oranges. I was looking at mine after I started this post and it looks like 10 or 15 degrees would work with the current swing arm. but I don't think I'll even mess with this idea. Kinarfi