Kinarfi

I got a PM from ricksrb referring to http://www.autospeed...ms/article.html and asked if this mod could get more power from the EZSteer from SuperATV. The easy answer is no. However, if you want less assist from it, which is what the article is about, that's pretty simple, just need to make some measurement to give me and idea of the value of resistors to order and add to the system. What you would do is add a pair precision resistors by cutting them into the leads from the sensor pot. One between the pot on the + supply voltage and one between the pot and - supply voltage, That way the output from the sensor would vary less from the 0 point (straight ahead and no input). The larger the value of the added resistors, the less the varying from 0, the smaller value, the closer to stock. But since this is such a good idea for those who want less assist, I'll have to see if I can get something to work for more assist. As for more power, no, just less sensitivity, and I'm working on a more sensitivity mod. How the controller works still needs to be explored and may well be some day, but for now, I'm just going to use it as is. Maybe during the winter months. Kinarfi

My capacitive gauge quit working so I went back to doing the way Joyner did sort of, instead of 4 reed switches, I used 10, now when the tank is full, the needle is on the white line, then 7/8, then 3/4 in the middle of the upper blue, then 5/8, then 1/2 on the middle white line, the 3/8, then 1/4 in the middle of the lower blue, then 1/8, the empty on the while line, the 1/2R in the middle of the red, then 0 on the bottom white line. The picture shows the old and the new. Kinarfi

Well, I got the banebot motor on and took it out for a short ride to see how it worked, drove it about 10 blocks (round trip) and came home and took it off. All it did was make it harder to turn and feel sluggish, even when in 4x4 / with lockers, it was harder to turn, to test the 4x4 locker in, I go to a place that has a graveled parking lot. To see how it does in 4x4 only, I make circle in the church parking lot and it always the tires squeal. After I got it back to stock, I went out and tried it again, definitely better in stock condition! Don't know why, but it is. Wish I had my money back for the gears, oh well, live and learn. Kinarfi

Not quite like that, the motor makes 3 instead of 1, but because torque is lower, speed is higher and when check rpm on the bench with both motors getting the same voltage, I had 1200 on the geared down Banebot motor and 1400 on the EZ motor. It won't change the number of turns lock to lock. Kinarfi

That is a definite possibility, the rc car people do it all the time, but I still think that unless you're hard core user of the front locker, the only place this system had problem, stock is very acceptable. My future plans are to scrutinize the mechanical operation of the sensing mechanism and see if I adjust it to a lighter touch. I have run my steering with an ampmeter attached and noticed that as I turn from side to side, the amperage varies, but when I hit the end of travel, the current drops to 10 and stays there, this lead me to believe that the mechanics of the sensing system drives the sensor closer to home position and therefore, lower power input when the unit can't move any further in the applied direction. I'll have to look one of these days, other inquiring minds are welcome to pitch in. Gotta go pick berries with a friend, more later. Kinarfi

Not a bad idea! Supply was one of the big factors here, I had the motor from my home made power steering and could order the gears, If say a planetary set were used on the shaft, someone would have to hunt down or build the reducer, other option might be to rebuild the rack and pinion with more teeth and a smaller pinion. But so far, the rpm of the geared down Banebot is only slightly less that the stock EZ motor. I'll be driving it later to day and see what happens. Kinarfi

I think it looks about the same as mine, that one's a T4 and I'm a T2, maybe it's the camera angle.

Lenny has mentioned that he made an adapter for the power steering unit and is waiting for me to get it put on my Trooper and see if it has the power to handle the use of front locker. I have it installed and will test it tomorrow in the back yard on grass, I think trying in on pavement would be a mistake. So here are some photos I took with captions in the photo. Kinarfi

Myself, I expected this to happen and that's why I jumped on the deal! I think someone with a Trooper had made arrangements to meet with them, but don't know if it happened. It's still a pretty good price when you consider the other units are close to or more than a thousand and seems to be good little unit. I got my parts from Banebots yesterday, so I'll be putting the high power mod on today and will try it the back yard on grass and will take photos now that it is all painted and a little prettier. Kinarfi

I bought one of those and plan to put it on one of these days, but where did you get the shiny chrome cover, mine is basic black. and if any one else gets on and needs the wiring lay out, I have it, I had fun tearing it apart and tracing out the wires, pretty interesting. Also, can you throw in a few more photos from different angles, specifically from over the dash. Kinarfi

Yes, nice install, I kept mine close to the gear box so I didn't have to change my box for clothes and tools that is under the hood, I'll take and post some new photos today now that it all painted are has been run for a while. Your's looks a little easier to install, would you take a few more photos of your mountings and did you have to cut your steering shafts? Good job, Rick Kinarfi PS, still waiting parts so I can do the more power modification. I will keep you informed!

Readings should all be close to the same and I've seenfrom 100 to 150, but it depends on you tester too. Mine was home made. This will also check to see if the valves have worn and are not closing good. Kinarfi

Your problem sounds vaguely familiar to when I needed a ring job, wouldn't start unless I towed it, then after it warmed up, it was good for the rest of the day, now when I start, as the pump is running I kick/tap the pedal and then stay clear as I hit the starter, but it seems to need the bump before the starter as if it were setting the aic, it starts, idles up and then settles down, I always figured it was just getting it's sensor information and dialing itself in for running. It may pay to run a compression test on it. Kinarfi

Chevy or Chery? and did you say you put a VW bearing in the swing arms, out of which VW?

Go to pinned http://www.utvboard.com/topic/392-parts-pieces-and-information-for-our-troopers-joyners/page__view__findpost__p__475 and leave a reply with the info and I'll cut and paste it in. Take a look and try to match what's there, please. Kinarfi

This camera won't mount on a helmet and I don't wear a helmet in my Trooper, I originally got it to use a telescope, it zooms out to x300 (30 optical * 10 digital) so I could look at mountain goats, elk and other wild life up Provo Canyon and else where. I mounted it to a piece of plywood so I could set it on top of my Yukon and pan and tilt to look at the scenery from the comfort of the driver's seat. I think it be fun to mount on top of the Trooper, but it needs a stronger mount because it be moving instead just put up top after stopping. Kinarfi

Send it to me, I'll get it running on mine and when you get here, we can transfer it to your's. I have video camera that works with my computer and I plan to mount it sooner or later. Just need to get some more stable mounts than I have at present. How about it Lenny, wanna make a super solid pan and tilt system for me? I plan to drive them with PWM servo motors. Maybe I'll try it once with solid mounts and see what I get, then put it on Utube. Kinarfi

Here's where I went, had a good ride and a good time. I have .gpx files for those who ask for them. Put on 253 miles on dirt, pavement, rocky trails, mountain roads, wet roads just after a rain, and some atv trails that I barely fit on. I ate some thimble berries and some wild raspberries, (yumm) and tasted some red elderberries(usually blue), then got home and found out they are toxic unless cooked. The place was packed Sunday and Monday and only a few left as of Tuesday and by Wednesday, there was less than a dozen people up there. On the first ride, 66fastcarss was with me until the afternoon. Kinarfi edit, hwy 35 and 150 are paved, the connecting road is gravelled.

Just spent 4 days driving around in all conditions, rocky, pavement, dusty, wet, not much mud, and I have to say it's a good little unit, not enough power for front lockers, and only occasionally did it seem not add enough power, but for the most part, it did well! and in the rocky, bumpy places where kick back would rip your thumbs off, I had my thumb on the inside of the wheel and I still have them. It was stable enough to let go of the steering wheel and zip up my coat with out a problem. On pavement, it felt solid as can be, no wandering or twitchiness, just rock solid, and I have stock parts except for Lenny's cap on the steering box. Kinarfi

Go with the LED oval http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Red-LED-Oval-Trailer-Truck-Stop-Turn-Brake-Tail-Lights-/400215073106?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d2ead6152#ht_1497wt_1165 ----- or something like these http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=led+oval+brake+light&_sacat=0&_odkw=led+brake+light&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313 . And to lose the amber turn light, You'll need to build or have me build for you ($5.00) a circuit so when you use the turn signal and brakes at the same time, they both work. http://www.utvboard.com/topic/1977-turn-signal-switch-on-the-column/page__view__findpost__p__8018

looking forward to giving you a guided tour

I'm sure getting good advice lately, run it!!! Just put one of my ball bearing from the back in the front. So far, I have heard a popping noise from every bearing as it goes bad, the first 2 looked like they had go dry and gotten wet and rusted, the last 2 were still full of grease, but they made that popping noise. I wonder if the bearing is starting to stick and it's the race slipping in the hub. Anyway, heading up to Soapstone basin tomorrow morning for a few days. 66fastcarss s going to meeting up with me for a day of riding too.

As Leadfoot suggests, that's just what I'm gonna do, plug the end of the hose back into the air intake after the filter and before the intake butterfly and go riding and forget about it. Welcome to the forum Leadfoot, but no hijacking allowed, you need to start your own post about headlight relocating. It EZ. Kinarfi

Meant to post this earlier, when I put the new ROLLER bearing in, they would slide in and out by hand as rocmoc warned, so I took an awl and put several small pits in the hub at the bottom and at the back to force the bearing up and forward, put plenty of yellow loctite for bearings one and then used a bolt and washer to pull the bearing in and when I put the snap ring in, the was room for a .009 shim between the bearing and the snap ring, so I added loctite there too. Hope it all holds, or I'll be doing all over again. Had so photos, but the hard drive failed and I lost lots of stuff that I never needed in the first place. Oh Well be happy

Took a 62 mile ride yesterday, pavement and trail, including rocky area and kick back is NOT a problem, actual, it's almost not present, I even let go of the steering wheel and at that point the steering wheel would jump back and forth maybe a 1/4 of a turn but that was probably mostly slop in the linkage, but kept going straight. For me and my weak shoulders, it is just a tad stiff, but very functional. I don't think you'll be disappointed with it. Handled good on pavement also, nice smooth operation into and out of turns and operate as if it weren't there like when stock, but with a dampener. Had a amp meter taped to the console so I could monitor it power requirements and most of the time it was a 0. Didn't do any 4X4, so no report there.