Kinarfi

Here's a few photos of how I remounted my rebuilt F-O-A 2.0" shocks with 2.5 coil over springs (200# over 400#) (and it feels about right), I think this is an 8" 10" shock, but I will check and if wrong, I'll edit the post. The limit strap is Amsteel-Blue Rope,(http://www.go2marine.com/product/38345F/samson-amsteel-blue-rope.html?WT.srch=1&WT.mc_id=gb1&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=productfeed&utm_campaign=googleshopping&gclid=CjwKEAjwvYPKBRCYr5GLgNCJ_jsSJABqwfw7GsayfIaI2VFV5AJMJAD1Qoe1Wojhr9ASGTsHv9qK-xoCFXPw_wcB ) so I'm sure it's strong enough! I'm still doing finishing up things,painting, tightening and checking and need to put the deck back on and test some more.

What's with UPS, After delaying my shipments, I finally got the second one, Mon at 8:pm, that's 3 days late in my book, Do they need to get some more help or better management. With the down time, I totally disassembled both Yearben, then, again because I was waiting on UPS still, put them back together as spring mounts, no oil, on reservoir, no O-rings, just in case my mounting brackets for MY F-O-A shocks developed a problem. Some history, when I had the F-O-As on the yellow 08 Trooper, I had to run a limit strap to keep the swing arm from going down too far and hitting the axle and knocking it out of the CV, which happened a few times. When Joyner advised me about rebuilding the Yearben, they said I could get a bit more travel by leaving a spacer out, but I would have to run limit straps again, which was my plan until I started tearing them down and saw what I had. I had to rebuild my shocks, and it became a choice between Yearben and F-O-A. I went with the F-O-As for a lot of reasons, longer travel, dual springs, easy to build. To take advantage the longer travel, I needed to move the shock mount, so I did, I moved it back by the wheel and out, oops too far, add another mount for the top that is behind the the stock mount. Tomorrow, I'll see how I did, and I'll take some photos too.

Because UPS seems to be waiting a day to process my orders from F-O-A, meaning what should be here today or tomorrow won't be here until Monday, so I had time to figure out how Yearben shocks come apart, I could labor on and tell you, but I'll let you figure out your self if you buy them, my opinion, I'm not too proud of them, they don't lend themselves to being rebuilt because I doubt the main shaft seal probably won't be available, the rest are just O-rings, once you figure out how to get at them, they use what appears to be a special compound to seal the seal and the threads, the nut that holds valve pack in place is welded, so you can't tune them. I think they are a one use and replace shock and mine didn't last long enough to suit me and I don't how the ride compares to the stock shock because I replaced the rear stock ones on my 08 Trooper in 09 and the fronts in 12 and when I bought the blue 2015 Trooper, I ordered it with the Yearbens, they gave me a good ride for almost 4000 miles, at which point, they were out of oil, just springs, not shocks. I can't endorse them, but I can't condemn them either, I don't know how much the were, so it's your choice. I'm done here, Jeff

I'm in the process of making apologies to F. O. A., I guess they didn't lie to me, It appears that UPS just doesn't get things done as quickly as expected, maybe it's just the Las Vegas branch, maybe they just want to irritate me. As stated, I ordered on Friday, UPS processed Monday, delivered Tuesday, I was in my garage all day Tuesday with the garage door open, watching and waiting, I never saw UPS at all so I checked the status on my computer around 6 pm and they had been delivered at 02:40, at the front door, next to the the open garage door, right beside the red bench that blocks the front door so the package was kind of hidden from view. Now I have another order, placed in the morning, F.O.A. indicated that the order would be processed immediately, but I bet UPS didn't pickup to afternoon or so, so it didn't process until 06/08/2017 7:08 P.M. (ET) and will be sitting in St. George, UT over the weekend and NOT be delivered until Monday afternoon, while I wait, Impatiently for what was hoped to be delivered Friday or Saturday! As I was rebuilding my F-O-A Shocks, I was having problem getting the main shaft seal to go in and gave F-O-A a call plus a email with photos, while discussing MY problem, F-O-A took the time to look at my photos and once he understood my problem, the best solution was ordered. F-O-A does get my endorsement, they are easily resealable and/or rebuildable and the kits are only a phone call away, plus the UPS time?IMHO, they must use some good quality parts, I'm still using the original orbital bearings from 2009, 7 - 8 years so far instead of failing after 1.5-2 years. https://f-o-a.com/

I'm not mad at you, just don't have faith in you, and I prefer to leave it at that! I will not be drawn into a bickering match, and I will NOT respond to again to any (of you're) posts on this subject. I can not endorse Yearben Shock from you, from Joyner USA or any one else, mine failed in short order and I am unable to rebuild them, at present, there is no REBUILD kit available, so they are NOT rebuildable. I am putting my old F. O. A. shocks back on and changing the spring rate from 600 over 400 to 400 over 200 and putting seal kits in both sides, I'm a little pissed at F. O. A. UPS, I ordered my springs and kits on Fri., they said I should have them Monday via UPS, called back when UPS didn't deliver them, they said they'd be here today, Tue, but Tracking says they didn't ship Mon., evening and won't be here til tomorrow, THEY LIED TO ME, WHAT ELSE IS NEW????

I think you should go moderate some other forum, as one of the oldest members of the Joyner foum, I was always proud of the be helpful, respectful, attitude this forum, I find your comment Juvenile.

Don't want to be rude, but where have you been, have you looked at my avatar, it's a blue 2015 Joyner Trooper, and if I were to be rude, I would say that I don't have much faith in silverbullet, and I should delete this post, but I'm in a bad mood from fighting with unrebuildable Yearben P.O.S. shocks all day, They are going into a box and I don't plan on opening again because I don't know what to do with them. Did I say the lower orbital bearing came apart in less than 4000 miles? I'm going back to my FOA shocks that I saved off my old Trooper.

HOLD OFF ON THE YEARBEN SHOCKS, BOTH OF MY REAR SHOCKS ARE NOW SPRINGS, LOST ALL THE OIL, NOT SHOCK ABSORBER ANY MORE! AND I ONLY HAVE ~ 3500 MILES OF EASY RIDING ON THEM, I NEVER GO AIRBORNE (on purpose) and stay out of the rough stuff. TRYING TO GET REBUILD KIT, NO LUCK SO FAR, IF AND WHEN I FIND THEM, i'LL POST JEFF AKA KINARFI

is that good or bad? IDK ? what's that stand for? Jeff

Check your grounding, there is one major ground point up by the horn, when you check one of your devices, measure the voltage on both sides, input and ground, If the ground side has voltage, bingo, loose ground, mother of lots of gremlins, and there are NO rectifiers to speak of. What year is your Rig? Jeff fill out your profile so we can know more about you and where you're at, maybe someone to help you around the corner

Finally got around to looking at my shocks, I think the right rear is gone or going, at 3460 miles, called Brandon at Joyner USA and he's sending me a set of rebuild kits and gave me some advice, while rebuilding, lose the aluminum sleeve around the shaft, gives more travel but require the use of limit strap, which you should use any way and fill them with 140 PSI nitrogen, air will work, but! the air molecule is smaller than the nitrogen molecule, so air leaks out faster than it does with nitrogen. Personal thought, air is mostly nitrogen any way, so how does it leak out faster, or is it the O2 and CO2 part that's leaking out

I'm still getting up, but when I go down to the garage, I'll take another look at my Yearben shocks and mileage, when I bought this thing, I ordered with the upgrade and I have been really happen with the ride, I had oversprung my 2008 Trooper and it would launch the rear end and also bottom out and jar my back, doesn't happen much with my 2015 and the yearben shocks, my wife is much happier with them too. I must say though that I'm seeing an oily shaft and that's what I need to go down to the garage to see if it's one or two and mileage. Have you checked prices at http://joyner-usa.com/ or Call Us Today! (480) 882.9612

pulled up an old schematic and if memory serves me well, red is power on all the time, black ground, yellow and white are in and out signal wires, test it out your self to see which is which, my guess is on the 3 wire system, yellow and white carried the motor current and just drove the motor to the limit switch, the 4 wire does the same, but there is only signal current on the yellow and white instead of motor current which is carried on the red and the relay in the actuator, so the switch lasts longer. So just put power on the red and the switch to yellow & white. If you still have the old dead one and feel like sending it to me, I'll rebuild it with FETs and send it back to you for a spare for far less that the new, probably just postage and parts, I do it something to do. PM me if you want.

Pretty and shiny, how long til you get it dirty? Where are you at? please fill out your profile so we can get to know you better, especially since your now a Trooper driver, congratulations, you'll enjoy it Jeff

of theI think this is what I bought, except I know I bought 8 of them and replace all 4 on each side, 2 on top, 2 on bottom. I searched the spec on all of them and went with these because I was trying to get rid of the noise that I thought them might be creating because of the play in them. The stock '08 joint had a bronze mesh in them that could crush with the pounding. These just seem to have higher numbers. I'll see if I can find the order where I bought 8. High-Strength Ball Joint Rod End M16 x 2.0 RH Male Thread, 16mm Ball ID, 40mm Long Thread 4483T361 2 Each $25.60 Each $51.20 Found the order - same number - 12-19-2012 I decided to carry a spare after having one of the stock ones break, miles from camp.

where are you at on this planet If you want to send your alternator to me, I can most likely fix it, I have before, I have a chip or two laying around that you can have, just look at the copper winding and if they're not burnt, then it just needs a diode or 2 and maybe a new regulator (chip) Your costs are postage, both ways and maybe a few incidental, but probably not. Jeff

I got my last set from McMaster Carr, then after installation, I drowned them in grease and wrapped them with polyurethane and black taped that so they were dust proofed to keep the dust out and the grease in and didn't have any more trouble, did the same to my new Trooper. https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rod-ends/=16ypo00 I bought the heavy duty ones, the ones that came with trooper had a 'bronze' mesh center that IMHO would crush and cause slop, the heavy duty McMaster one seemed to last with the covering I put on. I did the same to my A arm joints too. Jeff

YES, DOWN HILL, don't know if it's still posted from 5 or so years back, but lenny & I did a lot work on that problem and it happened to me a few times, I put a surge tank in mine, if you want more about this idea, ask

high light "evol evolution 1100sxs" and have google do a search, it comes up with a Utube video by William Motor Sports , I did see a Chery engine, but I don't think it's Joyner, maybe similar to a Kimco or some other chinese rig

A Field Effect Transistor (MOS FET) would act like a relay, you apply a control voltage and it passes current, just like when you pull in a relay, only it solid state, if you already have it on a switch, go that route. The FET conversion was mostly tinkering because I could and I wanted stay with the automation, you've already left automation and use individual switches, they work, go with it. If you go back to relays, you turn the ECU, it brings in the pump one relay, that relay brings in another relay, Fan, and then it cycles and waits for the starter. It is my guess that when you measured the fuel pump you actually read THROUGH the windings to ground, very low resistance. The way I see you going down the road is, you hop in, buckle up, throw the helmet on floor so it won't roll out, flip the fuel switch, flip the ECU switch, push the start button, stick it gear and dump the clutch, then turn on the fan after it warms up, Pretty close???? For me, It's hop in, belt in, clutch AND BRAKE, (brake is interlocked to starter), turn key all the way to the right, release key, release parking brake, put in gear and go. Heading out tomorrow for a few days, going down to AZ, just past St George and the south to see the scenery. I'll check in with you when I get back.

don't know why not, switch brings in relay, relay powers up computer, eliminate the middle man. I think the computer has constant power, then 'run' power from your switch Here's how I think it will wire up, first red box is stock 2nd box is how to wire it, just deal with the color coded wires, it's too much hassle to dig up the pin numbers of the computer. Ps. don't lose this, I deleted it after uploading it .ooops

without disconnecting anything, spread the wires so I can see as many as possible and take some photos for me. I assume you want it to work with the key, but be sure and tell me what you have in mind, how would you like to swap out you relay with a FET? It has 4 wires going to it and mounted on a piece of aluminum to shed any heat generated, it's more of a precaution than a necessity, if the alum is isolated from ground, you can mount directly to it, other wise it need to be isolated from the aluminum, see pictures, 3 post up.

wooooo hhhoooo dude-----WAY TO GO If you want to make a new fuse block similar to mine, I'll be glad to help. If you want to get rid of the relays, that's easy too. the first 2 photos are the relays and fuses for the front and the 3rd is for behind the seat. the left side of the first on has the blinker relay and then 5 FETs to take the place of 5 relays. If you're interested, let me know. Where are you at?

found the photos on my back up drive. Spark,(from the computer), fan, and fuel pump are controlled by the relays in the fuse block behind the seat The photo are what I did to my 08 Trooper, sold it. now driving a 2015---- LOVE IT ------

I thought I sent that this morning, but I got looking for a foto and never got it sent, when you pull the fuse/relay box that's behind the seat, look at the backside for burnt, melted, discolored wires and connections. I replace all my relays with FETs and built new fuse blocks., I'll keep looking for that photo.