Kinarfi

Went for a 62 mile ride yesterday and popped the glove, it was one of those gloves that the doctor wears for exams. maybe I ought to put a pressure gauge on and see how pressure it build, or does anyone know the bursting pressure of a glove say what????

We all have a tube from the valve cover to the intake manifold and I think we all have a larger tube from the valve cover to somewhere else. On mine, the larger tube went to an oil separator that was vented to atmosphere and drained to the oil pan. I changed mine because it was blowing oil out and all over the separator. After my ring job, the larger tube goes to a home made oil separator that drains to the oil pan and vents to a "rubber glove", at the moment, other wise it would go the intake tube after the filter and before the manifold. When the engine is at low RPMs, all the air is sucked out of the glove, when I'm running at speed, the glove blows up to tight, but is not vented. Here's what I think: The air is sucked out at low RPMs by the manifold draft and blown up while running because manifold draft drops when the butterfly is open and the pressure to blow the glove up must be coming from blow by. What you think is happening Kinarfi

guess I better get the gear box ordered

Planning a trip back up to Soapstone Basin this weekend, anyone interested?, I'll be staying for 2 or 3 days, but, being as it is Labor Day week end, I may not get the spot I want, so if you want to know where I'm camped, go HERE and find the "I'm Ok" post and click on it to see where I am at. Kinarfi

Problem solved, found 2 of them from when my diff failed.

Email sent to Lyle at SuperATV.com Hi Lyle, My report from yesterday was seriously flawed, the problem was driver error in perception and Trooper error in operation. When I tried to disengage the lockers, they didn't disengage and I perceived this as being the controller holding the motor solid, The Trooper does not have a powerful engagement or disengagement system and relies of the matching of gears so there is not stress on coupler it can move. In tests yesterday, your steering unit worked very well and did not get warm. It did still have some bugs, but I have to figure out if the bugs are mine, Trooper or driver related, or in the steering unit. Jeff Straw Additional, to disengage 4x4 and lockers, there is the old back up method to relax the stress and I recently found the driving forward and turning the steering wheel left and right until you're sure they have all disengaged. This moves the stress from one side of the coupler from one side to the other and the coupler drops out as you go through zero. Kinarfi

Did you just call me a jerk? I haven't been where I would experience that yet. Kinarfi

I think I would like to rewrite my assessment of the power steering assist from SuperATV.com. Took it out for about an hour with amp meter wired in and it seems to work great for everything except front wheel lockers, that just takes too much power, Lenny's modification that he's working on will probably fix that. My unit still need some slight adjustment for center, but that's a simple task. When you take the steering wheel to the end of travel and hold it there, the unit pulls 10 amps, if you hit the stop and relax just a tad, the current drops back to 0 and you can drive in circles all day with almost no strain. I think it is a good little unit for most. Kinarfi

Got my bearings and got them installed and took it out for a ride to see how things work. My snorkel sounded a lot better, quieter, oh yea, steering, from the driver's seat, I don't think it is as good as mine, not as sensitive to the torque, and may not have as much power, but I have had my right shoulder replaced and the left shoulder has a 3rd degree separation. I think it will do the job for most people that haven't put bigger tires on, when I put it in 4x4, I was able to do circles with the tires squealing on pavement, and I could do circles with lockers on gravel, but then things got weird, not sure if I was coming out of locker and/or 4x4 and I think the controller may be going into thermal shut down and very hard to turn, even with the power turned off. Need to do more testing, You may want to hold off for a while if you're planning on needing it for 4x4 with lockers. Probably going back up to Soapstone again pretty soon. My first modification will be to mount a cooling fan to it. Kinarfi

I was thinking a linear actuator on the side going to the cam pulley and a spring loaded take up on the other and depending on what you need, the actuator pushes on the belt and backs off to advance or vise versa. That wouldn't be so tough would it? The linear actuator could be driven by a stepper motor.

I was thinking about the question about changing the cam timing, would it be of any value to be able to change the cam timing while the engine is running and have the timing controlled by the computer, so the the timing can be changed for low speed and changed again for high speed? I think it would be doable. Kinarfi

I'm expecting my bearing today and will definitely test as is prior to any modifications.

a couple of comments about voltage and current measurements: The current reading indicates torque and voltage indicates speed of the motor. Voltage reading will be the combination of the internal resistance and CEMF voltage caused by the speed of the motor. I think I have that right CEMF? google it

This particular meter movement has a 50mv full scale deflection and you need a 50 amp 50mv shunt for it. 120347507590 380214040564 280659469786 190569141212 350485360545 any one of these ebay numbers will work type in "50 amp shunt" on ebay, the have some digital read out units with shunts too.

I can send the one I loaned you before, seems to be adequate for what we need, I can include the rack gear too. The other possibility is the amp meter off a battery charger, or a shunt that you can measure voltage on. Ebay number 180716792367 or 260821781465 for 100 amp 75 milivolt and 50 amp 75 milivolt.

Before I could make any comments, I would need to take a look at your Smart car motor and measure the current, on the stock motor, after it reaches the end and stalls, it drops the current to 10 amps. For the most part, work is work and 13 volts at around 20 - 25 amps is about 300 watts, from there you need to figure in the efficiency of the motor to see what you get out. I wish I had taken pictures when I had the power head disassembled, but under the sensor that is under the gold plate is a gear(ring) assembly with a groove in it the the bearing at the end of the spring loaded sensor arm rides in and always follows one side of the grove. This gear moves maybe .050" total and the sensor detects how far it moves from home as the torque is applied to the steering wheel, .025 forward and .025 rearwards. So when adjusting the sensor, use small steps, very small and when finish and tighten it down, a little on each side until tight and then recheck your work. I checked mine by turning the U Joint by hand to see if it felt equal in each direction. I don't know if replacing all the hot glue is important or not, but it will probably protect the sensor from the elements a little, I think they had it in mind to help hold the sensor in position. Another thought is do like the model car builders do, rewind the motor with heavier wire. Another thought is how much power will the plastic gear that the worm gear turns take before it is damaged. Kinarfi

One thing I did notice is that the holes are not symmetrical and do not have the same distance from hole to hole, they do appear to have the same distance from center.

I applied power to my steering to day and it seems to work great, then I took it all apart so I could paint the mounting and then I'll put it all back together, replace the bearing and go for a ride. I'll try the 4x4 lock up in the back yard on grass and see how it works. Took the steering rack cap off and cleaned every thing up and reinstalled and readjusted and every thing seems good and tight, seems the ball joints are loosest part of the system. Took photos of the bracket I made and then took measurements and added to them to the photos, if anyone should want to copy what I did. 1st of several Kinarfi

Thanks guys, did you bake me a birthday cake, maybe with a couple of bearings on top.

Just talked to Jose at Silverbullet and my bearing are shipping tonight, anticipate Tues or Wed and then I'll get them and and test drive. Worst case scenario, my test drive will take about 3 or 4 day , I hope, so I won't be able to post, but you'll probably here from me Wed

I just talked to Kyle at Superatv.com and asked about what happens when you hit the end of travel of the steering rack and he says the unit senses the stall and quits supplying power. He also said that when you are all done install the unit and ready to go get wet, put silicone around the three plugs to keep the water out, or at least silicone grease. If there is anyone back in or around Madison, IN 47250, you ought to give Kyle a call at 812.574.7777 or an email at [email protected] and make arrangement to take your Trooper in so they can look at what we need, bet you get a good deal on one if you do. kinarfi

Devildog, I was looking through some of my drawings and found this, , go forward and backwards from this drawing and take a look at it and see if it helps, yours being a little older may it incorrect, but it does have the fuses numbered and the wire colors and it looks like there may be 3 fuses for the ecu, power, one for the normally open outputs and one for the normally closed outputs. It may be that some of this even came from the 2009 schematic.

Got it in, just like I said I would, now I have to take it out and paint the bracket. Can't test it yet, need to get my bearings in. It would be nice if there was a spline that was rigid instead a U joint, but what I did should work. A few little notes, the mounting holes are not symmetrical, Lenny was right, there spline don't really match our splines, but they seem to work together anyway. Photos: 1st of 11 Kinarfi

find that 2 amp fuse, or at least that's what the schematic says, The key is in run, not just on, right?, are your gauges active. My nest step before tearing wiring harnesses apart would be to pull every fuse and test it and reinsert it, undo the connector plugs under the computer (there's 2 of them) and inspect and reconnect, one the ip wiring connector and the other is the body wiring connector as shown on page 55 of the TR1100 -T2 -T4 manual 2008.pdf manual. kinarfi

I disagree very strongly!!!!!!! if you get a bump steer, it will force the steering wheel to follow--------- Let me restate my position! WRONG ! IT DOES MATTER, INPUT SENSOR IS UNDER THE GOLD COVER and the other side will follow!!!