Kinarfi

Yes, at present, it is my plan to come off the rack with their u joint to power head to their u joint to my inner shaft which is cut and machined down to fit into their u joint to my outer shaft that has my u joint to my steering shaft. Reason: only one u joint between power head and rack, I have a storage box under the hood and I would have to modify or make a new one if power head is closer to the steering shaft. Mud, dirt and water are of no concern, the unit is well sealed. BUT NOTHING IS DEFINITE, YET!!!! I think the question in 101 is which side is input and which is out put, The side with the gold cover and the mounting bolt holes is your input, the other side is connected inside to the motor. Kinarfi

Let us know how it comes out, please. Kinarfi

Lenny took out the ECU on his Trooper with welding, I've been lucky I guess, I have only turned the battery master switch off, but I make sure the welder ground is as close to the weld area as I can get and I don't weld around any wires. Where was your welding ground and I assume you were welding on the cargo bed area.

If you know any one down there with a trooper, take your ECU over and try yours on their machine. Did you do anything that might have killed the ecu, like weld on trooper? EDIT, after you figure out how the unplug the computer, turn the key to run and measure the voltage on pins 44 and 63, fed by a 2 amp fuse and pin 22 from the key

Not sure if the spline count is different or not, I had to use a hammer to get mine on and off, their's may just be more tightly machine than what came on the Trooper. My plan is to put one of their U joints on the steering box, then the power unit, cut the stock solid inner shaft about in half, take the half without the U joint and machine the end down, maybe put spline one or just machine it down so it fits into their spline tightly and clamp and weld solid, cut a few inches off the stock hollow outer shaft and mount it's U joint to the steering wheel shaft. I will make a mounting ring and weld straps from that to the frame to support the power head. I will end up with 3 U joints. Kinarfi EDIT, the U joint bolts they supply need to be replaced with longer bolts that have a shank that goes just past slot where the bolt goes through, with that, I think the shank will keep the U joint from coming off the shaft, even if slightly loose.

possible, that would cause the problems you have, has it been running, did it just run one and not the next? Did you down load the wiring diagram that shows the computer connections?

Disregard my request, what I was going to look at is mounting the new unit directly in line with the input pinion, maybe come up with a spline to spline rigid coupler so it is shorter and maybe support the unit from the output side rather than the input side. Looking at what I have of your original rack, it's just the rack with the ends, the boots got put on mine some time back. I also have a cap and bearing holder, but I believe they both came off mine and were replaced with your upgrade cap and a plate that mounts my current power steering unit. Just checked the splines of the new unit and they fit our splines, though tighter.

maybe feel the click, maybe hear the click, might need help, someone to turn the key on and off as you listen/feel

Lenny, empty you mail box, On your new steering unit; #1 Have you disassembled your new steering unit yet? #2 Can I borrow your stock steering box back? #3 Have you come up with any mounting ideas yet? Inside the steering unit, there is channel that a spring loaded pot rides in and as you apply torque, the channel mover forward or backward and the pot follows it and sends a signal to the computer which powers the motor. The channel appears to be Acme thread with a very steep pitch, That's as far as I got, (so Far) so it you go further, can you take photos? Kinarfi

Can you tell if the relays are coming in, One of them is the Main relay that is activated by the computer during the cycle process and when the engine is running, the other 2 are fuel and fan power and activate via the main relay, but get their power from the battery, figure out which prongs are the normally open power prongs of the relay and place a jumper in the socket for the fan and the pump and see if they run. I'm still betting that you have burned up a wire or the connector on one of your relays, take a look at the back side and look for a cooked wire or spade lug. Myself, being into electronics, replace the fan and pump relays with P FETs and soldered them in for best connection, NO problems since.

Mine has saved my butt at least 4 times so far. Maybe should get a more powerful one. Nah, just clean and inspect this one and carry rope so I can reach the anchor point and always have the snatch block with me.

yep, tie it to the dk blue wire,

I don't recognize your fuse box, I would guess that it is the same as my front fuse box, there should be another that has relays in with the fuses, mine is behind the driver's seat, close to the computer. That is where suggest you look for a worse burnt fuse or relay socket or burnt of wire. Every time you get into a fuse box for what ever reason, pull every fuse, inspect, replace. This pulling and replacing makes for better connections because it knocks and corrosion off. Also, go here, http://www.utvboard.com/topic/392-parts-pieces-and-information-for-our-troopers-joyners/page__view__findpost__p__475 then to the red Joyner Manuals and download the appropriate manual if don't have one and also the wiring schematic further down the page. Just to clarify, when you turn the key to run, no fan, no fuel pump, do the gauges cycle?, when you turn the key to start, the engine cranks but doesn't start. If you get a chance, please fill out your profile so we can all get to know a little better, welcome to the forum, where are you located?

yep, call me, sent you PM

Wife has been cleaning out the old garage and we came across a Ford K&N air filter set up for a Ranger. My son didn't claim it, so I adapted it to my Trooper. My old snorkel had an open exposed filter and you could hear the engine gulping for air, which sounded neat at first, just like the exhaust sounded neat, at first, but after you listen to it all day, you get sooooo tired of it, so I adapted the Ford K&N with it's silencer and enclosed filter to my Trooper, much quieter so far, just need to get my bearings in and I can give it a real test. Here's some photos, click and follow the next. Kinarfi

Here's a picture and diagram of your key plug, tell us what wire has what voltage. If the fan and fuel pump don't run, it won't start because there's no fuel. The fan and fuel pump relays are behind the drivers seat. Check those fuses and relay bases and look for one that has gotten hot and melted the wires, you may need to pull it off and look in the back of it. Let us know what you find. Kinarfi

They said pull the gold plate over the position sensor and trace the current position with a pencil, dig out the hot glue, one side at a time you need to take the screw out and then put it back), then power it up and turn the sensor ever so slightly until you find where it starts to turn one way, same for the other way, center, tighten and see if it is still balanced by how hard it is to turn each way. Then I reapplied hot glue and covered it back up. Pretty simple. If you're the snooping type, don't bother to open the control box, it has 4 (presumably) FETs, a Toroid choke and a small computer chip (I think that's what I was) or 2. Kinarfi

Daley's Hunt N Fish, do the new Troopers come with a winch or is it an extra now. I see that it has the terminals for a winch. Does it have the dash switch and relays? Thanks, Kinarfi

Ditto, got mine and put it on the bench, plugged everything together and applied power, it started running so I called to see how to zero it out and while I was doing that, I took it apart to see what was inside, still very impressed!!! after I figured out how it works. Now to mount it up and run it. Kinarfi

So to the best of you knowledge, If I check my valve clearances again and need new shim pucks, he's the man to call? Any idea what the cost is per shim? Probably ought to just ask Rick or Jose.

The other piece of information which is badly needed is "where to get the shims" to the best of my knowledge, we still have not found a good source for shims. Kinarfi

Coming right up, I designed and built, with Lenny's mechanical help, a very functional electric power assist unit that I've been running it for a year or so now and I think the stock steering box works just fine, I originally put a .025" shim between the rack and the cap which took out a lot of the play but it wouldn't stay put and went to Lenny steering box cap and all was fine and it got rid of the play, I'm still using the stock every thing from the box out. It is my belief that the stock box is just fine and does not need to be changed, just needs Lenny's cap. My assist has plenty of power and the only damage from the power has been to the planetary gears in the gear box bolted to my assist motor. The stock box is working good. The worst problem I have with what I designed and built is that it is sensitive to radio transmissions, it causes a turn right error and the stronger the transmission, the stronger turn right input from the motor, even passing a highway patrolman who was transmitting caused the right turn problem. End story, steering box is ok, not absolutely certain about the linkage, my power is applied to the system at the splined input shaft of the steering box. My thoughts are that this will work. Kinarfi

We were working of fixing mine at the time and I came up with the high strength allen head bolts with the shank, then you took it further with the shims and the instructions. As I remember. Kinarfi

Good name, that makes 3 Jeffs on the forum, click on you name "codyjo" on one of your posts and it will take you to you profile, then click on edit profile , top right. Kinarfi AKA Jeff

Here's a photo with drain plug at the top. The bolt heads would be be in from the hole and out from the bearing. If you want to drill a hole to look in through, you may be able to judge where from this picture, If you have the diff out, just pull the bolts and blow air in through the vent tube to separate the cases. If all's good, smear some silicone into the corner of the small half, look at the second picture, put the o-ring back on and button it up and go ride. Kinarfi