Kinarfi

I always say to put a snorkel on and a good air filter, I have a K&N, but thinking to convert to some sort of dry paper like most cars have. Where you at in Utah, would you please fill out you profile so we can all know you a little better. Good name, Jeff AKA Kinarfi

Glad you are OK, Interesting, what year is your trooper, mine is an 08 and I have a metal tee, part # SV1100.04.02.00..01 I guess some "improvements" aren't really improvements. Jeff

so does any one know who they are or if the sell good stuff or junk or any thing else?

Thanks, Jeff

I just received another PM from Klung motors, Has anyone heard of them? Would you like to read what they sent to me? Jeff

Added some more pictures 2 of 8 Sorry for my original title, I was frustrated and tired of working on this thing, I WANT TO GO PLAY WITH IT!!!!!!!!! NOT WORK ON IT!!!!!!!! Oops sorry again for screaming. Any way, I suggest you all take a gander at your swing arm welds, I don't think I was that hard on my trooper and I know some of you are a lot harder on yours. I have welded the cracks shut and put some extra metal where the cracks were and I have made a template for boxing in that last side and will get some 1/8" steel to weld to it on Monday. That should toughen it up some. Jeff

at least 4 cracks, going to pull the swing arms and start welding them solid and put a plate across the bottom like Lenny did. I'll get one photo of each swing arm and them doctor the photo to show where each crack is, they are on both swing arms. Jeff

Pictures are worth a thousand words each

Here's an earlier post about shock that you may want to read if you haven't already, http://www.utvboard.com/topic/1195-back-to-shocks/page__view__findpost__p__4195 Jeff

what club? or did I miss something? Just looked up when and how much I paid for my shocks and springs $685 in 08/09 because the stock ones were blown, talked to the guy who makes them and got good info from him. I did eventually cut 4 shim tubes in halve and replace the bolts with shorter ones. I'll try to remember to include a photo with my engine rebuild photos when I'm done, soon. Jeff

what club? or did I miss something? No private clubs allowed here unless we all get to join, or is Joyn jeff

I have the FOA shocks on mine and I love them, so does my wife. Some of the things I like are that they don't need nitrogen, they don't even need to be pressurized, easy to rebuild, I have rebuilt both of mine, not because they needed it but because I broke a fitting and lost most of the oil in one of them and figured that since I'm doing one, do both, the reservoir can be mounted in any position. The only difficulty I had was getting the limit strap right, but I think I have that covered now. EDIT they easy to adjust also, just make of metal that will fit in the notch on the adjust and spray it with wd40 and adjust away, Limit straps are very important, if you get too much travel, your CVs come apart, or at least mine do, that's why I'm laying on the ground with my hands all greasy in some of the photos. Here's the first of my photos on webshots. Jeff

Just about, after I got the head revalved, intake only, they couldn't adjust the valves because the couldn't get the shims or grind enough off the valve stems to get the clearances I need, so I took the head and measured gap using a 2.30mm shim and then calculated what size shims I needed and sent the shims and the specs to Lenny and he ground the shims and has put them in the mail to me. Plan to post a bunch of photos of the changes I have made while doing this. Moved wires, rewired and redid some of the hoses, had already changed the fenders and put a wall between the wheels and motor to keep thing a little cleaner, added a heat shield to the header to protect the shocks and the limit strap from the heat, moved the oil pressures sender via hose to the other side of the engine, put a more secure mount for the interposing relay for the starter and used a FET instead of mechanical relay, turned the radiator fan upside down to get the connector up out of the dirt, rewired the tail lights, redid my steering circuitry and strain gauge sand other stuff I can't remember at this moment. Things are going well, hoping for good weather around Hanksville so Lenny and I can get it checked out. Googling it has it looking like some good area, on both sides of the road. Jeff

Wow, that's a lot of shiny and pretty, oh and clean too. Does the larger tube from the valve cover feed directly into the air tube? Jeff

On mine, my rings were shot and I had tons of blow by, so I'm still in the final stages of putting it back together, see my "HELP, reringing my engine, and finding problems post. And please, get a good selection of shims in for us.

Just added a bungy cord set up to pull the parking brake plunger back forward and now when I pull on the handle, it sets the brakes with only an inch or two of movement. Good info, Jeff

At one point, I put a small bottle between the intake manifold and the valve cover to collect the oil that was coming through the breather hose, eventually, I vented the air/oil separator via hose to where the hitch receiver is and capped off the line from engine to manifold. Jeff

with out getting out of my chair to go downstairs to check for sure, I have about 5000 km on mine, but I know I ingested some dust when I first got it and hadn't snorkeled or changed filters

Sounds scarily familiar, with the engine running, pull the breather filter off the oil air separator and see if you can feel any air blowing out, should actually be a vacuum, if it's blowing air, you may be on your way to my problem and need to re-ring, suggest you check you compression also. Having oil in my intake was part of the reason I flipped my intake manifold, although I do like it a lot better that way, I was afraid that the oil was messing up my MAP sensor and the idle air thingy so I flipped it so the oil would drain into the cylinders and burn. The only disadvantage is that if you get water through your air filter, it also goes into the cylinder instead of pooling in the intake to evaporate over time, I towed my home one day in a storm and didn't run it long enough to get it warm and dry up the water after I got home and left some water in a cylinder. When it comes to compression checks, one thing I the machine shop found on mine was that the carbon had built up on the exhaust valves and that was why I could feel the air blowing out the exhausts, but the exhaust valves were good, but the intakes were worn and needed to be replaced. Best of luck, Jeff

just reread my posts, while the exhaust was leaking air when I blew compressed air in, it was due to carbon build up on the valve stem, probably due to burning oil from loose rings and low compression, all the intake valve were leaking and had to be replaced.

When I put it back together, everything was tight, so I think I will go with loose. "But we all know there is no such thing as a perfect world", you got that right, for sure!!!! Know of any dealers or any one else that has shims? Found this so far, http://stores.ebay.com/HIT-THE-GAS/_i.html?_nkw=shim&submit=Search&LH_TitleDesc=1&_sid=120606839 Still looking. Thanks, Jeff

Got my head back from the shop and now I need to adjust the valves, the book says .18 +/- .05mm clearance for the intake and .25 +/- .05mm for the exhaust. That works out to .13 to .23mm intake and .20 to .30mm exhaust. Joyner shims go up in .02 steps but you can't get them, Honda shims go up in .05 steps and it works out that I can choose between 2 shims for each valve. My question is; is it better to choose the shim that gives my the tighter or the looser clearance? The way I see it, as things wear, the clearance will increase so I should use the tighter shim. What do you more experienced people say? So gaskets, belt, rings around $130.00 valves around $120.00 valve job around $225.00 14 new shims from the internet at $3.30 each, about $55 with shipping $530 so far and counting. Any way, should I get the thicker/less clearance shim or the thinner/more clearance shim? another thought on wear, as the valve seats and wears in, the gap gets less, as the valve stem and the bucket wear the gap gets more, stem and bucket should change quicker than valve seating in, I vote thicker/less clearance shim choice. Thanks, Jeff

I like mine, flipped the intake, cut a cork gasket and drilled a few holes and it works good, as near as I know. Makes starter access easy, as well as the throttle butterfly.

Nice doors, can you post a photo or two of you snorkel set up? How does it seal up, assuming you can still lift the bed up. Thanks, Jeff

This cripple aint gonna say nuttin