Kinarfi

OWWEE, that sounds harsh, sorry to hear about it. My valves are on their way here. Yay! I'll probably be ready for the next week end trip, had some real good results with my latest steering change, Put optical isolators between the control and the driver and some good filters on the control part too. So far it's just sweetness. Another thing about controllers like that Kelly you have, take a look at these, (http://www.roboteq.com/brushed-dc-motor-controllers/brushed-dc-motor-controllers-selector) They are two directional that is the input voltage goes from 0 to 5 volt and 2.5 is center off. Just like I have been doing, except lower voltages, and lots of computer chip power that protects it's fets. I WANT ONE!!!!!!! Get well, Jeff

good to hear, hope mines up & running soon too. Jeff

Two things I learned at the machine shop that is doing my head that impressed me, because it was new to me, but old stuff to others, is how to see if your valves are leaking and that the smaller valves in the head give more torque rather than higher horse power. To see if your valve are leaking, lay the head with the intake or exhaust port up and fill them full of water and try to blow the valve dry, if it keeps getting wet, it's leaking. Old practice to others, new to me. Jeff

here's a link to the manual for the 2009 http://www.jmcmotors.us/manuals/650commandoC2_parts_manual2009.pdf or Go here and look for your manual --- http://www.jmcmotors.us/jmc-vehicle-manuals Jeff

My head, oh my head, the Trooper head is at C & T Machine shop & I'm impressed by them, I need to replace the intake valves and all the stem seals because of wear and may do the exhaust also because I'm in there. Learned something interesting at the machine shop, that you can adjust the clearance by taking a little of the valve stem. Jeff

That and a snorkel, IMHO Jeff

The Honda shims come out of CB450s and GL1100s, start at 2.30 and increase in increments of .05, where as Joyner shims start at 2.18 and increase in increments of .02 up to 2.80. I hate it when people give me advice that I don't want to hear or do. Two different people advised me have the valves done while the engine was apart, but I didn't want to do that. With all the intake shims out, I screwed my compression tester in and applied around 80 pound of air pressure to see how fast it bled down, I noticed that on some of the exhaust ports, I could feel air coming out, so I got a barbecue lighter to see how many it was happening on and it was happening on all of them and blowing the fire out on most. Guess I have to accept the advice and take it to a machine shop to have the valves done. BUMMER BUT THANKS FOR THE ADVICE, IT GOT ME CHECKING TO SEE IF I COULD GET AWAY WITHOUT HAVING THE HEAD WORK OVER Jeff

Thanks for your help, both here and on the phone. Jeff

more report, all the shims I got from Monarch had to go back, full refund, none of them were thin enough, I got one 230 / .0905 shim and put it in every position and measured the gap that was left. From rear to front/ 1 to 8 here's what I measured, The 230 is 0.090 551 181 102 inch – 0.18mm/0.007inch #1 - 2.30 +.009'' - .007'' = 2.35mm----------------- removed 2.62 shim #2 - 2.30 + .011'' - .007'' = 2.40mm --------------- removed 2.62 shim #3 - 2.30 + .010 - .007 = 2.376 ---------------- removed 2.58 shim #4 - 2.30 + .011 - .007 = 2.40 -------------------- removed 2.58 shim #5 - 2.30 + .007 - .007 = .230 ------------------ removed 2.58 shim #6 - 2.30 + .009 - .007 = 2.35 ----------------- removed 2.62 shim #7 - 2.30 + .0025 - .007 = 2.1857 --------------------- removed 2.46 shim #8 - 2.30 + .006 - .007 = 2.2746 ---------------------- removed 2.54 shim All the exhaust measurements were within specs. So that's what I need, I can order them from Honda, I think, for $8.00 each, I would rather buy from forum members if any one has them. I now really believe that the reason I had low compression on 3 & 4 was more because of the valves than the rings, but what would cause the valve clearance to change? I think Honda said the motorcycles that use these shim was the 1100 CC and the 450 CC, the exact info is down stairs and I'll post it tomorrow. Jeff P.S. I used http://www.onlineconversion.com/length_common.htm to convert back and forth from inches to mm

Went down to Monarch Honda in Orem, Utah with the one SHIM that I had got out and showed it to them and they came out with a box that had a bout 20 spaces and most of them had shims of different sizes, most were thicker than what I need, but they had lots that may be what I need, They are $8.00 each, so I got 17 of them, the really neat thing is that when I take them back, they refund everything, and it works out to an exchange program, mine for their's, and I think their shims change more than Joyner's as you went from size to size, got a friend coming to help me, more report later jeff

I'll have to check with Honda and report, I called them adjusting washer because thats what them manual (Chinese) called them. On my way down to Honda in a few minutes with the one I have out to see what they have. Jeff Edited the post where I called the washers, now shims.

Here's my problem, NOW, more to come later I'm sure, I have 8 tight intake valves that need adjusting and 0 spare adjusting washer to adjust with. First a question, am I correct, after finally getting one adjuster washer out, that there is only one adjusting washer in each bucket? I was thinking you had one thick one on top and then you added or removed thin ones to get the correct gap, WRONG. So to adjust you get a set of these shims so you can switch them out until you get it right, or do it like Lenny did and machine them down in steps until it's correct. Would it work to put the thinnest standard adjustment shim in and then cut your feeler gauges into small pieces and put under the thick stock one, that way, I can order 8 of the thin ones and then shim them up. Where can I order them? Think I want to cry. Jeff

I neglected to say that when I tried to measure the clearance, I couldn't even get a .003" feeler gauge under the intakes, I'm thinking that the intake valves aren't closing. The exhaust appeared to be OK, but I'll check 'em

Well I got the motor in and bolted to the tranny and the motor mounts tied to the engine but not the frame yet. I put the starter on and spun the engine using the battery in my truck so I could do a compression test, oooh ick yuck, 0 across the board, so I put some oil in on top and got a little better results 20, 50, 0, 0, from the back to the front so off with the valve cover and start checking clearances, first thing I noticed was that the oil was wiped off the cam all the way around on the intakes and the exhaust seems OK for most of them. Now I wonder if that is where my problem was all along, that the low compression was for because of the lack of clearance, but the rings obviously needed replacing. Guess I'll be adjusting valves tomorrow. Jeff

where are those pics at. click the box in the top left to get the address, number of the post, copy and paste it. jeff

Those shreaded clutch pieces reminds of a learning experience from my teen age days, AKA real screw up, My dad had a 6 cylinder chevy pick up with a 4 speed manual, 1st gear being granny or compound, but real low, max speed with engine revved was about 15 mph. One day, at the top of a hill, I put in first and held the clutch in and let it coast down the hill, planning on letting clutch to see if it would drag the rear wheels, at about 25 mph, every thing started shaking real bad. It tuned out that the clutch plate had slung apart. OOPS, sure glad I had an understanding dad. Jeff

.020" guess I'll just go with standard torque values 6 ft/lb or 72 in/lb Every thing seems to be going well, think I bent my dip stick tube bracket at the top, doesn't want to align with the hole and doesn't look exactly like some of the photos I took, I like that method of photoing every thing before you tear it apart, beats the crap out memories, especially in old folk Jeff

An additional use for you old timing belt, very handy, used it to hold the crank shaft from turning while I torqued the nut on the vibration dampener on the other end to 71 ft/lbs.

So far all I have been able to find is .7 ft/lbs, same as the torque setting for the oil pan bolts, is that correct? jeff

Racing stripes, maybe a mural It does look good though, two thumbs up!!!!

Welcome to the forum, please fill out your profile so we can all get to know you a little bit better, we are a friendly bunch of folks that like to be helpful when ever we can. Kinarfi

I ruined a set of brake pads on mine by always driving with the E brake on, so I epoxied a magnet to the handle and put a magnetic switch, electronic of course, Hall Effect device, on the console and a light on dash to tell me when I'm being stupid. Jeff

Here's another place not to ride. Jeff

12.9s are what Lenny puts in his kits, I found them at McMaster-Carr, but we had to grind the heads down for clearances. http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-cap-screws/=b3ydaq, Head Style Standard Standard Head Style Standard Material Type Steel Finish Black Class Class 12.9 Drive Style Hex Socket System of Measurement Metric Thread Direction Right Handed Tip Type Plain Self-Locking Method None Screw Quantity Individual Screw Specifications Met Deutsche Industrie Normen (DIN) and International Organization for Standardization (ISO) DIN Specification DIN 912 ISO Specification ISO 4762

Ick, I remember when mine looked like that.