Kinarfi

share please

http://www.skygeek.com/daclk10hekit.html?utm_source=bronto&utm_medium=email&utm_term=Image+-+More+Info&utm_content=Disorganization+is+a+%22Mess%22erschmitt&utm_campaign=Newsletter+2.17.11 This just showed up as SPam IMO, but I thought you may want to see it Jeff

The stock steering shaft has the outer hollow tube at the top and inner solid part at the bottom, has anyone reversed this and is there any reason why this couldn't or shouldn't be done? If I do it, it puts all my sensor up top instead of down under and makes it a lot easier to get too. Kinarfi

What's cubit? from on old bill cosby skit about noah. Riiigght!! They do tend to get heavy after a while and if you put a muffler on like I did, you don't need the heavy duty sound proofing these give, but the vox is great, you can even talk to and hear the passenger with out even raising your voice and the noise cancellation is superb. If you wear a ball cap, be sure to get rid of that stupid button on the top!!!!

I used to fly, , and it was so noisy I had to invest in aviation head phones, http://www.lynx-avionics.com/, they work great and at present, I have them set up so they can work with FRS radios or just plug my nano into them and listen to that, but still be able to talk to my wife or passenger and hear them easily. Here's a photo of them laying on my hood while stuck. Click on photo, then, then full size, and then on the photo again. Kinarfi

You may want to consider something like this, google LED stop lights. http://good-times.webshots.com/video/3006067530104282158MVvWow I had to add a circuit to make them blink.

No hijacking Please

If I read this right, you need to pop you CV off, I just use a 3' nail bar between the CV and Diff and that works well for me. In the field, I have used the tire iron that I welded an 18 mm socket to. Kinarfi

Gumball's rebuild photos are at http://rides.webshots.com/album/579706184IoYsVH Enjoy Gumball, on that shifter boot, pull it up until you only have one ripple under and the rest on top and I LIKE your fenders, especially the way you dropped the rear, but as I type this, thinking of copying your idea, I wonder if it would work with my shock, I can see where my wheel has ground off some of the stock plastic fender, so when I extended mine, I was careful to keep bolt out of the area where the tire may hit during high G loading. Like your front shocks to, may have to copy that also. Kinarfi

here's a bit of correction for the schematic, at least the part in the blue.

Edited your post, take a look at it, On the back door, when you open it, it swings toward the ground and may be hard for a kid to pull shut. When I saw Jarrads set at the last jamboree, I came up with this idea of putting a spring inside the door frame that pushes a plunger forward into a hole to hold the door shut and has a slot where a handle attaches to pull the plunger back to open the door. Kinarfi

Did you take any photos, is the 36-1 Edis timing wheel the wheel that drives the alternator and water pump or is it something to do with your super charger and something the rest of us don't need to worry about. Is it in this picture? Possibly, is it on the left side? What timing is it effecting, spark timing, or injection timing and where is the timing signal coming from? I'm assuming the MegSquirt has it's own timing signal coming from the 36-1 Edis timing wheel. I'll ask more later. Kinarfi

How's this work for you? OK, I guess I've beat this horse to death, after you agree, I'll drop the super A #1 nonsense.

While my Trooper is down and I'm waiting for parts, I decided to play with the fuse block and relays behind the driver's seat. I am pulling the relays out and replacing them with solid state FETs that are good for about 72 amps. Unfortunately, the FETs I have to use, P channel, need the gate to go negative to be able to switch the power on the positive side, so I had to invert the signal with an N channel FET. Any way, Here's the way MY 08 Trooper is wired at that fuse and relay box. (before my changes) This is one of the photos I took while taking things apart, I also coordinated it with pictures in the 2009 owners manual and that is also the schematic I started with. At the bottom of this page is kind of an explanation of what is the coil and what is the contacts of my FET set up. What I think is important is the colors I found and traced and marked. If someone need the standard schematic marked up, let me know. Kinarfi Another comment, when it comes to schematics, if they are saved as a .jpg, it smears the lines, especially the colored lines and takes up more space, where as when saved as a .png, the line come out better and cleaner and uses less space, but web shots doesn't seem to like them, so I attached the .png and uploaded the .jps of the same schematic.

Don't know if I agree with that, to get a tighter turning radius, all you need to do is move the stop nuts on the rack outwards, mine are set so that the binding in the CV just barely stops, I could get tighter turns if the CV could take it. Kinarfi Took me a while to find this, but if you turn those rectangular nut out wards, you will get a tighter turn, when I got mine, it did turn better to the right than the left and it bothered me so bad that I had to learn the set up. Don't remember how much more you can get, but I do know it's more than the CV can handle. Kinarfi again.

If that set screw came out of your diff, this is where it goes, browse this album and you see what can happen if it gets loose, cost me a new differential. Kinarfi

I haven't opened and looked at them yet, but I just copied some PDF manual from http://www.lifestyleutvs.com/trooper1100t24x4.htm, who I believe is Brostar, and the home button's on-line diy manuals, http://www.lifestyleutvs.com/onlinediymanuals.htm, took me to another page which sent me to http://www.jmcmotors.us/manuals.html. Brostar has some nice photos to look at or you can go direct to JMC motors via the underlined bold link. Good to have if you don't already. Thanks gumball, who said, If you don't have this manual I suggest you move fast and get it before it's gone. It has a better wiring diagram than the one I have. It actually has some of the wire "colours". Page 64 -65. Kinarfi EDIT -- Be sure to get the 2009 manual, http://www.jmcmotors.us/manuals/TR1100-T2-T4_manual2009.pdf , it has better details and more information and in looking through it, I finally figured out that the weird round tool is an oil filter spanner.

Always OK, for any one, except salesmen kinarfi

And you didn't stop and pick me up as you went through Utah, I'm Sad Kinarfi Oh yea, have a great time, Maybe next time I can join you.

did you take any photos that you can post, specifically how it was upgraded, also, it would be well to proof read your post before submitting, or edit your post like I just did this one. Kinarfi

Thanks Lenny, I appreciate your scrutiny, I'm thinking the moisture is from the trip home from my last ride before I parked it, came home in a storm, washed it and parked it without driving it enough to get it good and warm and dry, OOPS, Then as I took it apart, I had some water come out of the air intake tube when I pulled it. #1 cylinder is most rearward, furthest from the clutch, Right? I tried to post the photos in order and went from left to right which just happen to end up 1 to 4, radiator to clutch, and the compression data was 95, 95, 125, 155, #4 to #1. So #4 has the worst carbon build up and with the worst gap and the worst compression. I haven't figured out why the gap and the compression went from best to worst, 1 to 4 but I blame the problem on the shit air filter that came with it and location of the filter on the stock set up, I fount the intake tubing had a fine brown dust coating on the inside which is why I push everyone to get a snorkel set up to get the filter up out of the dirt and get a K&N or better air filter. I even thinking of going back to the old oil bath air filter from days gone by sometimes. When it comes to boring, I assume any engine or machine shop can do that, but doing the valves, is that something any shop can do or do they need to be Chery engine people? pm coming Kinarfi

At this point, I switched cameras to get better detail, the next bunch of photos is what I saw as I tore down the motor, I think I need new rings!!!!! After you click on the picture, find the " full size " button, the click again on that picture

My self, I do not know, try it and then let us know, that way we all learn from each other, that's what we're all about. I trade my rear wheels for some front wheel and run General Grabber AT2 27x8.50 R14 95Q 6PR all the way around, love 'em. but while here on the subject, is our wheel bolt patter 4 X 115, I was think that's what I remember, I looked up the dodge neon and it's 4 X 100, so I think I'd worry about that, but it would be nice to have a steel rim off something like that so we could mount up a second set of tires for road or dirt or sand. Kinarfi

Of personal interest to me, actually I wish I could come get the whole thing, is that exhaust pipe, is that aluminum around it just a heat shield or is it a heater like aircraft use, would you be so kind as to take a few more photos of it and how the aluminum is mounted. Thanks Kinarfi

Just went through the parts and pieces and information post and did some updating, put known dealers at the top, gave the all a call so the numbers work. Thin Air Powersports told me he had some info for about some outfit the deals with chery engines and may be another source of parts, said he'd get back to me when he gets the information. Kinarfi