Kinarfi

Want the book, go the parts & pieces post and scroll down about 1/3 of the way to manuals and down load the PDF file http://www.utvboard.com/topic/392-parts-pieces-and-information-for-our-troopers-joyners/page__view__findpost__p__475 and then go to page 54. My 1" was an approximation, it is actually .98 inches.

When I set my toe in up, I followed what the book said, 1" toe in, what I did was wrap a piece of masking or some other tape around the tire and then spin the tire and hold a pen against the tape to give it a line to measure against and measure the front and back and adjust accordingly. Kinarfi

what size tires goes on these rims? Thanks Kinarfi

This ought to relieve your worries and it sure made my job a lot easier, hey snow man, are all the oil pans glued on with silicone, I've often thought that my rig was one that was returned or something. All the previous pictures will have a broken picture symbol because I deleted the album and started over because everything was out of order, but only the last few mattered plus I gave them all a new name. Any way, it's out and on the table, tomorrow the head comes off, as soon as I read up on how to release the tension on the timing belt. probably in the manual, but if someone wants to post it, I'll read it. Thanks, Kinarfi Oh ye, check the last 4 photo for my timing resetting trick. I may have a problem, I was planning on NOT pulling the pulley of the end of the crank shaft if I don't have to. Is there a way to remove the tension on the timing belt with out pulling the pulley and lower half of the timing belt cover?

You said you found them in your PM, they are always the first several posts and they don't drop down as new posts show up so they are alway there and get pinned because they are considered important. Kinarfi

And They're coming to take me away Ha Ha They're coming to take me away ho ho he he ha ha to the funny farm where life is beautiful all the time, and I'll be happy to see those nice young men in their clean white coats and they're coming to take me away ha ha :lol: :P :D It'll be interesting to see what's going on inside your diff, my guess is there upgrades, then there's Lenny's upgrade, for one, the stock bolts were grade 8.8 and the ones we found for Lenny's upgrade were grade 12 with instructions to use loctite. If you do, or should I say when you do take your diff apart, please photo it like I did. Thanks Kirnarfi

not sure what you're asking here, this one is not pinned

I agree with Lenny, if that machine ain't up on blocks getting the diff pulled, it's getting damaged. the first look at the way the photo came up looked like some down trees and fuzzy photo of some vehicle on a snow covered hill with snow blown away from the debris Kinarfi

Have you done the lenny upgrade yet, are the strand round like a piece of wire that may have been the safety wire, except that would be stainless. Take a look at the internals of a diff at http://travel.webshots.com/album/572841867xLhWzo and http://news.webshots.com/album/573862217qXWwgb could be a piece of the spider shims too photos will be good Kinarfi

My wife & I also got a used motor home last year and drag the trooper around on a trailer. Not sure what you have in mind for camping, but I prefer to get out of town where it's wide open and FREE. One ride I just love is Kane Spring Road, I have camped at each end of it and one time, I parked in the rest area and went for a from there (N20 22.88 W109 27.44) and at the other end I camped at N38 28 02 W109 36 06 which is very near hoorah pass and then there's the other side of Moab with lots of wide open areas to explore and you can go down to the river, I camped up on a bit of a knoll at N38 38.618 W109 49.171, but if you don't get that, there's lots of other places out there. The beauty of a motor home, IMHO, is that you don't need a camp ground per say, you have you "home" where ever you camp. Kinarfi Rocmoc, do you have any coordinates of that area or trail?

Me neither, but poor folk have poor ways and the lift that I have access to is in Salt Lake City and that's if my brother in law is home and hasn't buried it under a pile of junk, but I AM being really careful and watching and listening for any hints of trouble. Thanks for your concern, A Thought, you could come help me and that would get rid of some the danger , I know, you're busy or you would come do it for me Oh yea, pick up Lenny as you come through his area. Kinarfi

It's out and still hanging, Had to remove the right side motor mount so it would clear the frame work,

here's an easy one to miss, pull the clutch cover plate for the bottom half of the clutch, 2 smaller bolts. now what, get the hoist, right

I wonder if heat treating them would solve any problems, any one know the secrets about heat treating.

Thanks, you probably just saved me from having to buy a new sensor, I wasn't planning to remove it, but I guess it can get damaged from the inside. Thanks Again, Kinarfi

Thanks, take a look at the parts & pieces post and see what you think and let me know if there are other links like what I just put in. Thanks again.

Major work jobs by owners, this is just a link to the topics This is Rocmoc's engine pull -- http://www.utvboard.com/topic/1192-pulling-engine-trans/page__view__findpost__p__4179 This is Kinarfi's engine pull ----- http://www.utvboard.com/topic/2076-kinarfis-engine-rebuild/page__view__findpost__p__8847

When you find it, lets put it in unique fixes

If I remember correctly, I ordered 1/8" aluminum and what they sold me was .120 aluminum and I think the grade was 5052, the bend had to be done with a press brake. yep, ALUMINUM SHEET 10 X 4 X 1/8" 5052, just a little under $200 Still have over half of it left. plan to put some under the engine next, if you do this, replace all the hardware with clipnuts and 1 1/2" bolts or truss head screws. kinarfi

One of the problems that need correcting on Troopers is the gas supply, it may be that the gas in the tank is all moving forward as you break and it uncovers the outlet port and the pump gets starved and the fuel pressure drops. On mine, if I was going down a steep hill with less the about half a tank, the engine would actually die, there is a topic dedicated to this problem, if it hasn't been deleted. To cure this, I recommend installing a surge tank that is filled by a separate pump from the main tank and then the pump is fed from the surge tank and the return also goes to the surge tank, It would only need to be about a quart, but mine is over a gallon and has a circuit to turn the fill pump on and off. If you're interested in doing this, I'll look for the information, Kinarfi http://www.utvboard.com/topic/629-fuel-tanks-mods/page__view__findpost__p__2466

A few comments about what I have seen so far, check your radiator fan shroud for cracks in the aluminum brackets that support it, mine has some cracks near the mount holes. I have flipped my intake manifold and added a snorkel to my buggy, the last time I took it out for a ride, I came home during a storm and when I pull the air intake hose, it had some water still in, last ride was over two months ago, so if you have a snorkel and it's raining or snowing, put a bag on the snorkel and if you have flipped the intake like I have, you may have a problem with the water running into the cylinders which can't happen if you haven't flipped the intake. Now for a request for a little advice. I'm pretty sure there are only 4 bolts between the engine and the transmission, all the bolts between the frame and mounts have been removed and I have moved the motor up and down with a pry bar and it separated from the tranny a little, but I can't slide it back. Anyone have any advice, about what my be holding it, or is it just gravity and I'm weak? The motor just slides out of the clutch, right? Thanks, Kinarfi

here's the photos I've taken so far. basically just for reference when I get to putting things back together. got all the bolts out and the engine should be free, but it won't budge, but I haven't tried very hard yet. Pulled the 4 bolts between engine and tranny, and all the bolts holding the mounts to the frame, left the mounts tied to the engine as I figure that the factory got the lined up so things sit level. kinarfi

I went through this and removed all the bad links I found Got started getting ready to pull the engine yesterday, so far just draining and disconnecting. Question, what's the best way to pull it, that is which engine to frame mounts should I unbolt, and do I unbolt at the engine or the frame should I start a blog for this project, never done one before? kinarfi

Lenny, do you have any GPS coordinates for the places you wanted to check out, I, and I'm sure others, would like to preview the areas on Google earth and other maps. As I remember, and marked them on my maps, it was 37°41'0.47"N 110°13'14.42"W and 38° 8'26.73"N 110°36'36.46"W and 37° 4'32.09"N 110°12'22.87"W Kinarfi

Got it on the calendar for March + or - a month, guess I better get after the engine, haven't even started yet, kind of planning on starting today, and when I do, I'm going to photo the project to death and post in an album on webshots, if I do a good job of it, I don't have to take a bunch of notes, I can just go back to the photos I took for where wires and connectors go and so forth and so on.