Kinarfi

Welcome and please fill out your profile so we can all get to know you better. Kinarfi

Just a mod and not a SUPER mod?

Travel stays the same.

Here's a few photos of what I did, but I haven't had a chance to beat it up yet, click on the thumbnail and then browse the album Kinarfi

Another possibility is water got into your tank via condensation from the temperature going up and down, during my flying days, they taught me to alway keep the tank full to prevent this. If you have rodents around, and you probably do in the mountains, when it's not being used, put a few moth balls or urinal cookies in or around it, or so I hear.

The new cars have a circuit that shuts off the battery drain if it drops below a certain voltage, and I have built one for my camper that turns off every thing if the battery voltage drops below 12.00 volts. I haven't installed it yet, but I may put one in the Trooper also. What it does is open up the line to everything, unless the key is turned on, if the voltage gets too low, (12.00 for my stuff) adjustable. Then when you turn the key on, every thing comes back, regardless of the battery voltage. If anyone want's something like this, let me know & I'll post the schematic or if you want, I'll build you one, for a nominal fee. Kinarfi

'muleskinner' How much does your steering box look like this? Specifically the adjustment nuts and ends click on picture, also look at the next in the series

Can you post some photos of the damaged goods?

http://www.utvboard.com/topic/1768-oil-cooler/page__view__findpost__p__7189

http://travel.webshots.com/photo/2453348700104282158kboMvK Here's a link to the photos I took when I had to replace my rear diff, I still have the old diff that has the Lenny upgrade, as you look through the photos, you'll see the damaged diff housing, that I think is still usable because of the direction force is applied to it. Let know if any of it might help you, Don't know how interchangeable trooper and renegade parts are. kinarfi

I hope you are taking pictures.

not certain what a C2 is, could be my brain froze up, but on the troopers, the limiting factor is the CVs. As you try to adjust for more travel in the rack by moving the stop nuts out, the CVs start to bind. Kinarfi

On my Yukon, I got about 100,000 miles before I changed out iridiums, I have changed my Trooper plugs yet, how many miles do you have and how do your plugs look? My self, I'd stay with the iridiums, they don't seem to degrade very quickly, but I just hate changing things until I have too, then I put in what I think will last for ever and ever. Kinarfi

Thought I had already posted this, so here I go again, look through http://www.utvboard.com/topic/392-parts-pieces-and-information-for-our-troopers-joyners/page__view__findpost__p__475 and find the schematic and down load it and save for future needs, Also, you may want to remove the fuse/relay boxes and look at the back sides to see if you have any heated, melted wires, discolored connectors or fuse clips. kinarfi

Welcome to the forum, Lots of good people here, Please fill out your profile, maybe one of us live just around the corner from you, One problem I have seen is the fuse plug in gets hot and causes the fuse holding terminal to let go, same for relays. You may want to pull the fuse and relay boxes and look at the back sides of them. Also read the parts pieces and info post that is pinned to the first several posts and down load the wiring diagram, lots of info there. Good luck, Kinarfi

As Lenny said, it's easy to drill & tap a zerk into the end, personal feeling here, drill the hole off center a little bit. You'll need to grind the weld off if it hasn't brokent loose already like mine did, unscrew the end, drill and tap, zerk, screw back on and reweld. The idea that they are sealed is bunk, when I grease mine, the grease comes out the through the threads, if grease can come out, crap can go in. However, personal opinion again, I wouldn't recommend doing the lower ball joint because you'll probably knock it off on a rock. Just pack some grease in under the boot. Kinarfi

Trooperfolk, when posting on webshot, may I suggest, ask, that each of us create one album for ourselves and then just keep uploading to that one album with our own name on it instead of having several separate albums. If you still have all you photos, you may even want to consolidate your albums into one. Thanks, Kinarfi

Looking good so far, we can put all the photos in web shots and thumb nail a few of them into the post. This would work for other projects also, Maybe when I get enough courage to pull my engine and rewire, I'll post that there also. A report on differentials would be good too, maybe on CVs. kinarfi

How to change the Rear Wheel Bearings - By Rocmoc. You will need - Two rear wheel bearings, I got mine from snowman at No Limits Powersports, http://www.joyner-atv-utv.com/ but also available from Silver Bullet Motorsports, http://silverbulletmotorsports.net/ & http://www.jmcmotors.us/ Roller bearings Two seals (metric sizing), part specs TC 45 65 8 purchased from Motion Industries, http://www.motionind...LocationsMI.jsp NOTE: Page 198 of the 2009 manual, page 183 of the 2008 manual, says I need #3(03.06.13871-FB45×65× 13871-FB65X42X8 Seal FB65X42X8) and #32 (03.06.13871-FB45×65× 13871- FB65X45X8 Seal FB65X45X8) seals, but I know that the # 3 seals actually needs to be 62X42X8 Large socket set to break the nut loosen the axle holding the hub on. I have a 3/4" set and worked great. C-clip removal tool, I have one but was easier using an old screwdriver trick. Seal puller, I have a bodyman's dent removal tool with an adapter that works. This saves the old seal but you could use a screwdriver and kill the seal. Remove the wheel/tire. Remove the cotter key. Remove large nut, someone needs sit in the Trooper applying the brakes to keep the axle from turning. Remove the brake calipers, 2 bolts per caliper & two calipers per wheel in the rear for a total of 4 bolts. Slide the hub & rotor off the end of the axle. Remove the 2 bolts holding the backing hub/bearing housing to the swingarm. One on top, one on bottom. Remove the bearing housing. Wipe, clean so you can see what you are doing. Remove the seal. The seal is in front of the C-clip & bearing. Wipe, clean so you can see what you are doing. Remove the C-clip, can be a pain if you have never done it before. Slide the bearing out. CLEAN! That is as far as I am on one side. Waiting for the seals. Why there are seals is beyond me. The bearing is sealed so it is just extra protection. There was grease in the area between the seal & bearing. Cheap insurance so I will put it back the way I found it. I can tell the bearing has spun a very very small amount. The fit between the housing & the bearing is still very very good. Lenny's tip to locite the outside of the bearing in place to the housing is important! But will make it more difficult to remove the bearing the next time it requires replacement. Yes, my original bearing had wear & slop. IMHO not that bad but did need replacement. The bearing isn't as bad as the design of the housing is. Taper roller bearings should have been the real design but what the heck lasted 4 years. If you see anything that needs correction, please post it as a reply. I'll take note, fix, and delete your post.

Mr. Rocmoc, Do a good report on this, I plan to just copy and paste your report into Parts, pieces & info. Unfortunately, that post is getting so big, I think I need to break it up a little, so this will be under the heading of rear wheel bearing replacement by Rocmoc. Kinarfi

It's been decades since I have been to Lake Havasu and looks like I won't be there any time soon either, that said, I won't be able to meet you fine Trooper Folk there for at least a couple of months. Don't want to limit myself by saying this year. A lot of verb for "Sorry, I can't make". Wish I could. Kinarfi

Where is the zerk fitting for the carrier bearing on the front drive line and what's the best way to get to it? Cut a hole in the cover and put a plate over it? Thanks, Kinarfi

I think you have some typo errors, corrected in blue, AND the Trooper differential gears ARE helical, check the links I posted. Kinarfi

Sounds like you didn't get the rollers with your unit, take a look that them in this link and then you can make some for yours, maybe even a couple of sizes for big and little pipe. http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-hydraulic-pipe-bender-32888.html Kinarfi

Rocmoc, you know of my power steering unit, adapted to fit the stock setup. You also know of Lenny's change over to the steering unit out of a Smart Car. On an outing with Lenny, we swapped vehicles for a while and my comments about his steering are based on that relatively short time behind his wheel. The force needed to steer his Trooper were much lighter than stock, but also it took more turns of the wheel to go from lock to lock. A simple gear ratio change. With out any power being added to the equation, the choice comes down to do how many turns of the steering wheel do you want for a lock to lock turn. My personal opinion is that Lenny's steering needed too turns of wheel for ripping around corners (under steered) but I was used to mine. Off road race trucks, according to my son, like to go from straight forward to full lock in either direction with a little over 90 degrees of input, but they use power steering also. I NEED the power steering because of my shoulder injuries and damage and what I have seems to work pretty good for me most of the time. It's when we get in 4X4 and lockers that Power is pretty much a must, I have a 20 amp circuit breaker on mine and it pops quite often, I'd change it, but I worry about the motor and my power FETs. kinarffi