Kinarfi

I'm confused, to clarify or get verified, the drive line or drive shaft go from tranny to diff, front to rear or vice versa but do NOT have boots. Axles go side to side, diff to wheel, and do have boots, can be removed without undoing diff. The original post said drive shaft boot, Is this something the T4s or am I just misreading the posts? Kinarfi

It's not in you title, so it don't count,

You could just order one from JMC, http://www.jmcmotors.us/parts.php?product_id=419&stape=5 #13 BT-1063 Trooper Boot 1 $14.04 Kinarfi

FYI every time I've had to do anything to my boots, I just secure them with ty-raps, I've even secured them with nylon string, but then I know some pretty trick ways to use string that I learned from McDonald Aircraft, they use string instead of ty-raps because in an MD-11, they save enough weight for one more person to fly. Also, if something happens, the boot slips off instead of ripping apart, but it still keeps the grease and the joint clean and because the boots still good, you have a chance of a field fix, which I have had to do and I finished the day riding instead of going home. Kinarfi If you leave the ends of the ty-raps on instead of cutting them off, you can hear them hitting the frame like cards hitting the spokes on your bicycle, REMEMBER??

My left rear wheel has a bit of wobble in it, when jacked up off the ground, you can feel the play, Lenny said something about it, I believe he said silver bullet had some better ones. We need these two guys to post. I don't know if my outer ring of the bearing is moving or if it's just the play between inner and outer races. Kinarfi

That's a secret that only he & I will ever know, but I was so jealous of you for being a Super Moderator. I had to do something about it. So I did and now, I'm the only Super Duper Moderator there is, at least for now any way. Kinarfi

I finished messing with my Fuel gauge sender and it turns out that it is much, much less apt to start a fire than the factory setup!!! The factory set up can supply over a 1/10th of an amp and a little over 7 volts inside the tank. My set up can't supply any DC voltage and only a few thousandth of a volt of a sawtooth wave. Anyway, here's the schematic and a picture of the circuit board, not installed yet, but will be shortly for more testing. It's been another fun little project, and if interested, let me know. Kinarfi

Gumball, I've read about your crash several times, I'm so glad you're going to be alright and sorry for your injuries, I know about being hurt from my plane crash a little over 4 years ago, but you do get better and the pain subsides. Hope it happens quickly for you. Because I couldn't fly, I ended up with a Trooper for enjoyment, although I wish I could still fly, I sure do enjoy the Trooper and enjoy the people I've met. Best wishes for a speedy recovery, especially health wise and secondly, toy wise. Kinarfi

You said you down loaded the schematic for the computer under manuals in the parts and pieces sticky( http://www.utvboard.com/topic/392-parts-pieces-and-information-for-our-troopers-joyners/page__view__findpost__p__475,) If I had your problem, I would pull the spark plugs for easy turning the engine over by hand, unplug the computer, turn the key on to run, and check the voltage on pin 67 to see if it has power, if so, jumper it to ground to bring in the main relay, pin 67 is the ground pin for the main relay. Now, jumper pin 27 to ground, this activates the crank shaft position sensor, now measure pin 29 and watch for a pulse as you or someone turns the engine over slowly, use a voltmeter or an oscilloscope, not a test light, I don't know how much power the sensor can handle, maybe an LED with 1K ohm resistor would work. If you get the pulse, this means the sensor is working, it is what tells the computer where the crankshaft/piston is. If it doesn't pass this test, you may have a bad sensor. If this test passes, hook the computer back up and watch for a pulse, on or off, at pins 4 & 5 to see if you're getting power to the coil as you turn the engine over slowly, you may be able to measure this at the plug going to the coil. If it doesn't pass this test, You may have a bad computer. Keep posting your results. Kinarfi

Here's a link my son sent to me, I bet some ingenious Trooper drivers could this as a jump point for a useful modification. http://www.atvrideronline.com/newsfront/1009_atvp_pro_armor_quickshot_universal_spare_tire_and_accessory_mount/index.html Kinarfi

Went for a ride 9-29 & 9-30 and here's some photos and 2 videos of a nifty narrow trail. Almost didn't see some camouflaged muzzle loading deer hunters, get it they were camouflaged http://news.webshots.com/album/578686723MurPUy kinarfi

It's funny how and when an idea comes to you! Woke up with this idea. When Lenny and were out and his key broke and got lost, he moved one of the leads coming of the switch so it was always on. We have could have used my key to get him started, pull the key and let him run on the alternator, then I could have started and run on my key. If you're worried about recharging the battery after starting, take turns running without the key. So if you're out with another rig that has the master key, try this. or get a spare key. Kinarfi

This is for those who have surge tanks and need a transfer pump, I bought a Mr. Gasket 12S for my motor home and it failed, I have a bad habit of running my tanks dry before switching and I think this one failed because it didn't prime quick enough and melted its plastic bearing and stalled out. After tearing it apart and seeing how it's built, I think I'll buy another one for my Trooper and take the one out of my Trooper and put it in the motor home. Here's the first of the photos I took of it. I was surprised to see it was a vane pump, I expected it to be a vibrating solenoid pump. Kinarfi

After a few rides and a trip through the deep sage brush, here's what my fenders look like, This one got torn off because it got caught between the sage brush and my tire as I was backing up. This got torn by driving over some taller sage brush. Here's the first of 3 more photos of my fenders before I took them off to replace them. They worked real good and kept the dust and the poop and the mud off pretty good. I will be replacing them with the same. Kinarfi

Take a look at these 3 photos, I don't think this key will break, made it myself. Kinarfi

I have a problem, what do you want to do at the jamboree? Some want to test their equipment to the limits, others want to go sight seeing in a new area. While Lenny and I were out, West of Monticello, Utah, I don’t think we accomplished much, except for those who want sight see. Lenny proposed the idea of creating a route of about 100 miles which sound good, but in reality, I personally believe that’s too much. After Lenny & Jeanne headed home, Linda & I took off on a 109 mile ride. The specs are: 5:15 Moving 1:13 Stopped 6:28 Total 109.4 Miles 42.6 Max Speed 16.8 Ave. Speed This was just the two of us with no problems and one stop to eat, plus some other necessary stops, on forest roads that were nearly as smooth as pavement in a lot of places and the thing that slowed me down the most was the scenery, very beautiful, I loved the green stuff and the deep canyon stuff. My first opinion was that the jamboree might be held at or near Devils Canyon, It APPEARS to have lots of trails and set up for ATV play and has paths to long trails for the easy drivers. Right now, there are still no planned drives or places or even a good camp site. We need to find a local that can do most of the work like Devin did for the last get together. I asked Lenny for a report and here’s his report, Plus some comments to me about his trip home that I have pared down. Lenny: We went west on Highway 95 out of Blanding on around the north end of lake Powell towards Hanksville. This is one fantastic route. Outrageous scenery, but very slow going… All up and down curvy roads, but it was worth it. There is a trail south of Hanksville that I have wanted to run, so I had a chance to go by it and check it out some, didn't ride it though. We did however take a short ride on a trail we first thought was the trail I was looking for. It was a different trail. We went in only about a mile or so. Wow, perfect stuff. These aren't forest roads but old miners roads and exploration roads so they weren't put in with the idea of regular travel like forest roads. This is all canyon lands stuff but outside of the national park. The road's run the canyon and go up and down and in and out of them. It looks perfect for the Jamboree. We can do real long runs like all day ones going out and backs. Room for Rocmoc to park his monster rig too. We need to plan a trip of about 5 days to check them out properly. Maybe a few days here and a few days looking more around Blanding. This is a colder weather riding area like October or November time or maybe spring but runoff may make it impassable. The mile in we went was already lifetime memorable. You won't believe it when you see it. This has the potential of being a Jamboree that is talked about for years to come, no kidding. Until this new spot is checked out. We will have to move each night to a new camp site but, not that far and that's not to big a deal for everybody. Load up the Trooper, move and unload. Look at these trail starting points. We went on the first one and you will see a good camping area just off the road about 1/8 mile. Track the trail in for a mile or so and check the elevation changes. This is good stuff. The drive between the first and the last is some of the most beautiful scenery on earth. They won't regret the drive, I promise. Look at some google perspective views to see the terrain. N37 4.497 min W110 deg 12.452 (went into this one about a mile or until the first 200' elevation change to the top of the mesa above the canyon. An easy climb but memerable) N37 deg 41.062 min W110 deg 13.235 min N38 deg 8.495 min W110 deg 36.584 min ( this is the one I have always wanted to ride ) The trails at Blanding were more forest type roads. They are quite smooth and there are few surprises and challenges. I like some challenges and I’m not talking rock crawling challenges, I like that too, But neat stuff that makes you appreciate the Troopers capabilities. There were a few good trails but not a good network of trails where we road but there is quite a bit of area we didn’t cover. I'm looking for trails that everyone can navigate in a stock trooper and a T4 also, even though there may be a few spots that the T4 would need a bit of assistance but not much. I don't want trails that are all foot ball sized rocks either, even though there will probably be at least a bit of that on any trail. On the way home I may have found some good stuff but I'm not going to get into it until after Jeff and I check it out. All I will say is it appears to have all the making of being one of the most memorable trips you will ever take in your life, both scenery wise and ride wise. If it turns out to my expectations, all day rides packing a lunch and camera would be available. More like a Safari. The Poison Springs area goes in about 40 miles according to a write up I read where someone adventurous took their Suburban down the trail. He had to be nuts to try that but he made it. The trails are mostly smooth with occasional challenges here and there. After looking at what Lenny suggested, I would go with the Poison Spring area which is the last suggestion. 38 08 14.30 N 110 36 22.88 W @ 4932 ft, these coordinates are for the camp area. From here, there appear to be some good scenery trails to the East and some mountains to the West. My feeling is that there is enough to do at this one site to keep most happy and busy. After driving 109 miles (attachment) I would go for an extensive tour of the mountain area north of Blanding it’s scenic and easy, but not challenging. The area for the jamboree is still up in the air, Please look at these suggestion and make your suggestion and comments. My self, I enjoy the scenery of an easy road as much as the challenge of tough road. Lenny says “Your in charge so do what you think is the best” Well, If I'm President this year, then Lenny is Vice President and ALL of you are my advisers, SO ADVISE, PLEASE Kinarfi PS If you play with google earth, look at this area near Blanding, 37 48 11 N 109 35 21 W area

Gumball, By chance did you read my post on alignment, see what you think of it, please, and see if you think the string thing is better or they are in the same category. http://www.utvboard.com/topic/846-laser-alignment/page__view__findpost__p__2537 Thanks, Kinarfi

There are some down loads of schematics and wiring diagrams available in the part & pieces thread pinned to the first several posts that may help your figure out you problem. Also if you fill out the information about yourself so we can all get to know you a little better, you may find one of us live just around the corner and can help. Hope this will help some, Kinarfi

And here they are, The first of 7 You're Welcome Rocmoc Kinarfi

Sent the design to a Jim Weir who published the design I modified back in the middle of 2000 in Kitplanes magazine asking for his input and I received his comment today. His comment was "Sorry, but I just can't comment on individual designs, ESPECIALLY on potentially explosive designs. Jim" Perhaps this is a warning that some of you may want to take to heart. To me, it opens another thread / discussion. Kinarfi

I have been in the garage working on the capacitive fuel gauge electronic circuit and I think I'M finished with it, It works very well in real gas, very repeatable and only about an inch and a half in diameter. I'll take some photos and post them later today, I think it can go in where the old one is or be place in the center so it stays more constant when going up hill or down or side hill or level. At present, I plan to mount it in a cord grip, I rolled the aluminum around a 1/2" aluminum tube that will extend through the cord grip for attachment to the circuit. Just need to hook it up and make sure it's compatible with the Trooper's gas gauge. Here's the design if anyone wants to make their own. Photos of capacitor and circuit board to follow. If you roll your own aluminum, you will most likely have different values than I did which may need adjusting of some of the components. The aluminum I used was bought at Home Depot in the roofing dept then cut and trimmed to fit inside the tank. The aluminum, IMHO, need to be detempered by putting in an oven at high heat or in the barbecue, other wise it holds its shape to well, hard to roll and once rolled hard to unroll. If any one wants to build one and needs help, PM me, or if you want me to build you one, PM me. Kinarfi

Just make sure you get the right lug nut. They forget to mention that, have you read the parts & pieces thread pinned to the top? Kinarfi

If it's the same as Troopers, check into brake lines at your local parts store of if you have a place like House of Hose like I do. Post a photo and the length of what you need, I just ordered brake cable from JMC and got it with in a week. Something like 27 bucks + shipping. Kinarfi

Lenny & I are planning to go look at the Monticello / Blanding Utah area so we can get some information about having our next get together / Jamboree and where to ride, camp, etc. We are planning to be there Friday Sept. 17 Saturday and Sunday. We have nothing really set, just to explore and see what we can find. If any one would like to join in, Please let us know. I believe we will each have our campers and Troopers and be camping. More details as become available. Kinarfi

Pin 70 is the Mal-Function Indicating Lamp ground, if you have a lamp tied to it, it will light up when you have a malfunction, such as one of the sensors failing. Probably not really needed, but if you're having troubles, like me and my starting problem, it sort of tells you that the computer is OK and the sensors are OK, If it's on, you know you have some kind of a problem, it does come on when you turn the key to run with out starting and goes out after you start. I picked up 12 volts off the winch relay, added a fuse, a 1K ohm resistor, and LED, and then hooked it to the blue wire. Don't be afraid to go inside and clean any dirt, dust, moisture traces off the board before you silicone it, don't use compressed air on it, just blow on it gently. Kinarfi