Kinarfi

If you haven't already downloaded the wiring diagram from here, http://www.utvboard.com/topic/392-parts-pieces-and-information-for-our-troopers-joyners/page__view__findpost__p__475 , you should. I has the pin out for the computer and the inputs and outputs for the computer, including the CARB or OBD2 out put information. It's under: Manuals and Information Kinarfi

Behind the drivers seat, 4 bolts to get the cover off, 2 bolts to remove the holder, then to uunplug it you have to pull the square handled plastic piece out about a full inch which is a ramped closer and pulling it unseats the plug, pull the gasket and put some silicone spark plug boot release on it. When you open it, follow static electricity prevention, hope you know what I'm referring to. While you in there you may want to follow and pull the pin 70 blue wire out. Kinarfi

As per a request from , I have copied several posts and copied them here, Hope I got it so it can be understood, View Post Lenny, on 31 August 2010 - 08:06 AM, said: I've had a cutout problem on my Trooper so have been checking the wires. I'll post that in another thread. In the mean time I found something that I didn't like with the computer. Since Farmington, my computer didn't have ground unless I ran a separate wire from the computer chassis to ground. Then everything worked OK. Yesterday I opened up the computer to see if I could find anything of a grounding problem. Didn't find anything except it had a bit of dust in it. The computer isn't sealed at all and water and dust can get to the inside. I suggest that everyone pull their computer and silicone all the way around the cover and plug receptacle. Mine did show the signs of a bit of water too having got to the inside at some point from washing it. Lenny heres the 1st of ten

I agree with Brostar, when mine failed, I took it apart and cleaned the circuit board with a tooth brush and denatured alcohol, wire brushed the outside of the motor and painted it, inspected every thing, lubed it and put silicone on the mating surfaces to seal out the moisture, The thing is designed to fail in the 2 wheel drive mode and corrosion will cause it to fail that way and cleaning will fix that. Look for circuit board traces that have corroded excessively. If you can't get it working, PM me. Kinarfi Another Idea - Smear a light coating of silicone on the circuit board to protect it from corrosion.

When I take my Yukon for for safety and emmissions testing, the tech plugs in the vehicles computer and get all the info, I think he has just the one plug and I bet they are standardized. Ours should follow, I'll look around and call him. kinarfi Any one want to set up the Malfunction light? it's easy, I picked up the +12 volts off of the battery at the winch relay, put a 1 amp fuse inline with a 1000 ohm resistor and a red LED to the blue wire and duct taped it to the computer cover. Can't see it while driving, but that can be changed quite easilly too.

Tried it again and this time it worked, but I had to floor it to get it to start, but at least it started, I've been trying to get it to start using the first part of the throttle, but when I pull it or coast it, I end up floor boarded so I should probably start just flooring it and see if that works. When I try to start with minimal throttle, I ofter notice the smell unburnt gas. I did get my malfunction light hooked up and once the engine is running, it goes out, tried unhooking a few sensors and the light came on. Kinarfi

got the photos downloaded and on webshots, heres the 1st of ten Kinarfi

OK got me, mud puddles in the middle of the road after a rain where it collected. But then some were pretty big puddles that I couldn't get around and had go though. Might even call it really really dirty water. Kinarfi

Another 50 or so miles and some mud and I still like my Nerfenders. Almost no mud on us or in the in the Trooper, some on the outside. Kinarfi

I agree with Lenny, silicone your computer, if you have some desiccant, add it to the inside. See post http://www.utvboard.com/topic/1158-trooper-cranks-but-wont-start/page__view__findpost__p__7356

I have been checking my MAP/IAT (manifold air pressure / intake air temperatue) and I think it's still good, I applied 5VDC to it and the MAP output was 3.655 volts. I'm hoping someone knows if this about what I should expect, if I add to the air pressure using lung power, it would rise over 4.00 volt out and if I subtracted from the air pressure using lung power, it would fall to below 3.00 volts. The IAT output was 1.809 K ohms at about 84 F, in cold water, it rose to 3.46K ohms and in warm water, it fell to 1.060K ohms. The information for testing is on page 99 of the T2-T4 owners manual. I also traced pin 70, blue wire, Mal-Function Indicating Lamp output wire and found that it dies at one of the plugs near the computer. I have brought it out and plan to hook a lamp (LED) to it tomorrow. After reading Lenny's post, I opened my computer up and found some water traces and dust also, I have seen what water, copper traces and electrical energy, especially DC can do to printed circuits, disastrous, So I applied silicon all the way around the computer filling any openings that would allow moisture in. I have always had mine wrapped or inside a bag of some kind and I still got water inside. I highly recommend opening, inspecting, cleaning if needed and siliconing the outside of your computer, especially if you are not in a dry climate or wash it from time to time. I have some photos of what I saw, but the camera is in the garage and I'm tired. I'll add them tomorrow, good night. Kinarfi

I have started building an electronic capacitive fuel sender for my Trooper. I was wondering if others would like to have one made for them. The hardest part is the capacitor, it has to be hand made, Mine is made of two sheets of aluminum, 7" X 16-18" and 6 3/4" X 14" and rolled up together separated by 2 pieces of bird netting, that stuff you put over your fruit tree to keep the birds out of your fruit. I checked the readings as I filled a container with gas and the change was quite linear and repeatable. I believe that if you were to start with an almost empty tank, you could add a gallon of gas and mark you gauge, add another gallon and mark your gauge, etc, etc. I plan to put my sender in the middle of my tank which will keep it from changing as I go up hill, down hill or on level ground and the design can be made to not show sloshing. If you think you may be interested, let me know. Before you ask, I have no idea what it may cost and if you want, I think it will fit into the existing sender hole instead of putting it in the center. Kinarfi

Looking at the pictures of these keys, I would go with the Jegs key because of price and the metal prong, which do you like? Kinarfi

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLA-706729011/?rtype=10 Interesting to see how much the price varies from place to place. I didn't have jegs in the parts and pieces thread, but I do now. http://www.jegs.com/

Moving posts to here, It was 'muddying' up the pinned post Hope every one is OK with it. Kinarfi

I've ordered a few things and had no problems, they sent one wrong item and when I told them, they sent the correct one right out and they paid shipping and I got to keep the wrong item, brake hoses. If I had a complaint, it would be no tracking numbers and I can live with that. If you do have a problem, mine have been corrected with a phone call. Kinarfi.

After 50 miles of dirt / gravel road and some sage brush and plants of the wild variety, here's what my nurfenders look like.

I made my own set up that allowed me to open the wire to the starter (knife switch was over $41) and tried it again today, it failed to start, ended up pulling it to get it started. Bummer. Kinarfi

Took my fenders for a ride, I like them, better than the stock ones. I did manage have one get rolled up between the firewall and tire and scrub off a little paint and tear off just a little bit of the mud flap part while backing up a hill to turn around and tore off just a little of the mud flap part on the other. Actually they worked great, you could see them push the dust away and it didn't come into the cab. I think I'll call them Nurfenders or Nerfenders, which ever doesn't violate copy right laws. Kinarfi

In another thread I mentioned that I might try spinning the starter with 24 volt to get it to spin faster, IT WORKS, lit right up, now to try it when its even colder, not in my garage. Warning, the alternator power comes from the alternator to the starter to the battery disconnect. I had to rewire a few things, I added about of foot of wire to the battery disconnect and hooked that to the alternator lead and to the extremely long starter lead and rerouted the starter lead up high and accessible so I can cut it and put ends on it for easy jumping up 24 v when I need to. I plan to have a knife switch that I can be opened and then hook up jumper leads to each side of the knife switch. Crazy I know, but it keeps me running. Kinarfi

I had my snorkel coming up between the seats and the filter was about the same height as my ears, it was too noisy that way so I moved it up above the over head cover. It sounds great now and this is probably my last change for the snorkel system, the only change I can see making is changing the hose to what's called material handling tubing, smooth on the inside and clear with a spiral band on the outside. Kinarfi

Took my fenders for a ride and my wife called them the "Flying Nun". The fix, Haven't tried it yet, probably tomorrow. Kinarfi

I think it would be great, just not enough $$ for one and the way I drive, don't need the power, or so I think to myself, I'm just a simple person. kinarfi

Half price??? If I can't do it for 10%, I'll do it for less, and with my feet that are always cold, I want the heat down on the floor, not my left elbow. Airplanes and VW have been using exhaust heat years and I think the headers are probably built well enough so I don't have to worry about leaks and gassing my self and the exhaust enclosure works as a heat shield for the shock, the oil pressure gauge and the surrounding area, win win win. Just hope I'm not creating another rattle.

I'll be taking this little experiment the first of next week to see how they work, to see how they stand up to the wind and what rock and mud do to them. So far my only worry is the front part folding down as I go faster. That's where I would probably stiffen it up first. Will make a report some time next week. I've been thinking about heat and enclosures too. My plane had an all .060 lexan door on it that was hinged overhead with velcro and framed with 1/2 Aircraft aluminum tubing, It made a pretty good seal and when you consider I had to be going at least 45 mph or fall out of the air, that a pretty good seal. The heat that I'm thinking of at present is to pull the heat off of the exhaust system. I will have to fix the compression problem also, so if anyone comes up with performance improvements, no turbos though, please post. Kinarfi