Kinarfi

I'm thinking that as the foam flexes, it will shed the mud and I'm hoping to stay out of most of it any way, but basically, it's an experiment, and it may be possible to glue a couple of pieces together to make it stiffer. As time goes on I'll make some more reports on how they turn out and if it works well, I will be able to make templates out of paper and share them with others and if someone comes up with improvements on my design, they can share with the rest of us. As for a good glue for those who need to glue fenders and other plastic parts, I find PVC glue like that used for the gray electrical PVC pipe works very good, especially if you have some extra PVC to add to it as reinforcement. Kinarfi

After breaking my fenders, I glued them back together into a usable item, but I figured it would also be a good time to remodel my fenders. Often when out riding, I end up slinging some GREEN mud which is actually the droppings from cows or sheep, ick ick ick, I can handle the wet dust OK, but not the green mud, so I decided to make my remodeled fenders a bit wider. I had a bunch of polyurethane sheets around and figured it might work. It did a pretty good job. Take a look at this series of 12 photos. Template for when I need more VIDEO http://good-times.webshots.com/video/3019187740104110397bswbGD One of the neat things about polyurethane is if you bump into it, it flexes, if you bump your head on it, you don't end up bleeding, as has happened to me a few times. Kinarfi

pictures & model numbers, please and did you change springs in the front end? If so, what did you use? Kinarfi

Yep, you're right, didn't know that stuff was out there, thanks and it probably works better to boot. Kinarfi

Here's an idea for someone with machining abilities, no names, but if you take a set of calipers and machine a threaded lever into the back of the caliper that is attached to lever. you have your independent left or right braking set up. You'd need a right hand thread on the left and a left hand thread on the right. Kinarfi

Well I got my brake line in from JMC and got it installed with a new set of shoes and now it seems to doing it job again. Not sure how others bleed their brake systems, but when I had my airplane and bought brakes for it, they came with Plews oil can and some polyurethane tubing and you pumped fluid into the brake until it came out the master cylinder, it worked good because it was all uphill. Found that can and cleaned it out and made a cap for the reservoir with gasket and put a fitting in the top and started pumping fluid with the oil can until it came out the brakes and it was as solid as it could be, no sponginess!!! The only thing better that I know of would be a brake bleeder pot. I remember pumping brakes until it got firm, someone else would bleed until the peddle hit floor, close the bleeder, pump, bleed, close, pump, bleed, close,........ until solid. Definitely took two people. This was doable solo and worked great and easily. Kinarfi

No dates have been proposed by any one!!!! Here's my suggestion for the Blanding area early May, I looked at the monthly climate summary. Still planning to go preview the area, My friend suggested it, my son's inlaws go there for family reunions and Rocmoc jumped on the idea and tagged me with heading it up. Just a thought, but does any one have any interest in going there to check it out next month (HOPEFULLY) If the copied page doesn't post properly, go to http://www.wrcc.dri.edu/cgi-bin/cliMAIN.pl?utblan BLANDING, UTAH (420738) Period of Record Monthly Climate Summary Period of Record : 12/8/1904 to 12/31/2005 Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Annual Aver Max. Temp (F) 39.1 44.9 52.7 62.2 72.3 83.3 88.7 86.2 78.2 66.0 51.4 41.2 63.8 Aver Min. Temp (F) 17.2 22.3 27.8 34.3 42.1 50.7 57.9 56.2 48.3 38.0 26.7 19.2 36.7 Aver Total Precip (in.) 1.39 1.21 1.05 0.87 0.71 0.45 1.15 1.38 1.28 1.45 1.05 1.33 13.32 Ave Total Snow (in.) 10.8 7.3 4.4 1.9 0.2 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.3 3.3 9.8 38.2 Aver Snow Depth (in.) 3 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 Percent of possible observations for period of record. Max. Temp.: 96.1% Min. Temp.: 96.6% Precipitation: 96.9% Snowfall: 91.9% Snow Depth: 70% Kinarfi

Here is an alternative design for a combined stop and signal, a smaller package, and PNP transistors are more readily available. Current needs to be limited to about 300 ma, but the LED lights only draw about 250 ma. Bench tested for about an hour, seems fine. Kinarfi

I changed my tail lights also, but did it a little differently, I disassembled the stock light, pulled and cleaned all the accumulated dirt out of the back up lens after separating them from the rest, hack sawed both ends off one of the frames leaving the screw holes plus about 1/2 inch, Painted the inside white and the front of back up bulb holder, siliconed the lens to the painted frame and cut some metal out of the rest of the frame to close the hole under the lens and siliconed it in place mounted it back where it was, painted the area outside light black. Bought (2) 6" Red Oval Sealed LED STT Stop Turn Tail Lights by Optronics Price: $27.29 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001RQPK4M/ref=oss_product and mounted them and then figured out how to make them work like the old system where the brake light blinks when you turn on the signal so you don't have to have the amber light. Take a look at the video. http://good-times.webshots.com/video/3006067530104282158MVvWow If anyone wants to do the same, I'll gladly provide the schematic or even build the circuit for a nominal fee. Kinarfi Schematic

For those who didn't listen to me, Listen to Ernie, I've preached changing those bolts several times. Ernie, When you're done, be sure and cut off any bolt sticking out past the nut, it will limit your turning some. Kinarfi

Thanks Rocmoc, I haven't really accepted this task yet, just seem to be doing it, guess that's good enough, but please, make suggestions or is Blanding Utah the area and we just need a date. Please post dates you would like, dates you can't go, and any good info. I have a couple of calendars in the first post, and will update them as info comes in. Kinarfi.

The fittings on the steering ball joints work fine with my hand pump grease gun, there is also one on the bottom of the steering rack, I also pulled the top A arm ball joints, ground the welds that hadn't broke and screwed the top off, drilled, tap, zerked, screwed back on and welded so I could grease them also. Also, since the rubber is no good on the steering ball joint, I suggest Tie Rod Dust Boot, Checker Auto#13566 as shown in Parts and Pieces thread. Kinarfi

My e-brake worked excellently in the beginning and would hold me on hills while I got the engine revved up and the clutch engaged and is something my injuries require me to have. The Mico-Lock system would be nice be expensive, http://www.tsmmfg.com/mico_hydraulic_brake_lock.htm I've driven trucks with the Mico system and liked it, but looks like too much work and money for me, but still a good idea. Then there is Lenny's set up, I'll let him detail that. Kinarfi.

Guess I shouldn't been surprised, House Of Hose wouldn't fix my brake line, flat refused even though they could have, "LIABILITY" and for them to build a new one was $75.00 so I looked at http://www.jmcmotors.us/my_account.php and it was only $29.21, brake pads were $11.40, per set I hope, ORDERED!! Now to build some sort of visual, audio alarm for when I leave the brake on. Kinarfi

So is your sender working now and it was just the ground wire or is it still dead? as I reread, you grounded the sensor wire, right? can you measure any resistance from sender out put to ground terminal or case? and ground terminal to case? kinarfi

This thread has been referenced to in the Parts & and Pieces Thread. Thanks all for the contributions. Kinarfi

Don't know if I would call it real wreck, maybe an inadvertent abuse of it's OFF THE ROAD capabilities. Maybe I need to be more careful. kinarfi

Nope, no parking break, burned it out by leaving it on too many times and there is a leak in the left side where it attaches to the calipers, fixing it tomorrow, I hope, and putting new pads on the parking brake. Anyone find an alternate yet, let me know and I'll put in the parts & pieces post. My thinking is that the oil is up in the rings and the cylinders are warm and the air is warm so it starts, When I start it for the first time, I can tell that it lights on or two the others catch on as I go faster and I'm not sure if it makes or not, but I hold the throttle wide open as I start and keep the rpms up for a little while. I think I will try putting a heater under one night to see if it helps, good idea.

Went for another ride ( http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/578401809wPUGkE ) -- Wildcat Canyon and Strawberry Pinnacles, Aug 14 thru 16, 181.8 GPS Miles. Some really nice scenery and fun trails, even if some long, good roads petered into nothing and some others came to a locked gate. Had one minor accident, tried to turn around in a wide spot on a narrow road, backed up a hill with a hard right, planning to follow up with a hard left, but when I went to hit the brakes, my foot missed the brake peddle and got caught under it and I forgot the keep turning to the left and went off the road down hill until some aspens stopped me after running over some smaller ones. Put it in 4X4 and Locker and backed back up onto the road. Damage: both front fenders cracked or broken and the supports on the left side bent downward, other than that, OK, but that's plenty of damage for me, I don't want any more. Still coasting down hill or pulling to get started every morning after the engine cools off, thinking about wrapping it at night with a blanket to see if it stays warm enough to start in the morning, . There are some advantages to not working, you get to play during the week while everyone is working and you're only one out there, for better or worse! Kinarfi

I think the heat shielding may be a very necessary thing also, I added some shielding around my headers because the plastic deck had warped from the heat and I was worried about my shocks getting hot from the exhaust and I also made sure the original heat shield stayed put on my oil pressure sender unit. Kinarfi

When you get them on ebay, I suggest you add one more post with a ebay link, I think it would be appropriate, since you are making the for forum members. Kinarfi

Where are you picking up the oil to send through the cooler and where are you returning it to? photo please if possible. Kinarfi

What happened to the lighter colored post that have been read so you know if there are new posts (Darker Print) in a forum at a glance. Also the advertisement in the middle of the pinned posts, I suppose it pays for this site, but objectionable. Kinarfi

Never did get a comment on the use of heat sink compound, any one else heard of doing this? Was trying to get some part from JMC and asked Chauncei to relay the compression information to the technicians there and Chris sent me an email saying that the problem is more likely a blown head gasket. Also included a video, about how to see if you have a leaky head gasket, Kind of a jerk IMHO. Product is http://www.uview.com/ProductDetail.php?PartNumber=560000, has anyone heard of this? Any one have any suggestions about maybe having a head gasket problem? Thanks, Kinarfi

I did mine with a hand drill, don't jack it up, keep the weight on joint so it is seated, I later found out I had to cut the the bolt off just past the nut. You'll want to go back and read my back posts on this about the length of the bolt. Kinarfi