Kinarfi

I'm sure you don't need this caution, but just cutting the 4 1/2 " sections out will change the geometry and you'll have to make some bends to make thing match up again. Kinarfi

One thing I would like to comment on in regards to my compression problems, presumably rings, is that every morning, I had to have a hill to coast down to get things started, once the engine had warmed up, it started like a champ every time for the rest of the day, I did notice I am down on power, rings again, but it starts and runs and I saw lots of green, beautiful scenery and the weather for the most part was great, it had rained some, so the dust was down. It's fly season there, so there were quite a few flies and depending on where you were, the mosquitoes were tolerable to bad. Planning a return trip with my son and grand kids soon. Kinarfi

Haven't made it down there yet, Hoping later to call Lenny and see if he want's to go check it out later this month or early next month. It kind of seems we have settled on this area for our Jamboree #3, does every one concur? If so, Now we need to come uo with a date.

Went for a Ride 7-27>30-2010, 20100727-30 Chicken & Currant Creek pictures, photos, and videos, from current events on webshots Up around Strawberry Reservoir. Put on 224 miles according to my GPS . Got caught in the rain a few times, (blue tarp), had good time. Kinarfi PS Should I pin this topic so other can post their rides? Should I not post mime? Does anyone care?

Here's some photos of my plugs. Has anyone heard of putting heat sink compound on the threads of your spark plugs? When I was flying a Rotax 100 HP engine, is was one of the thing you were supposed to do, So I thought I'd try it on my not so Cherry engine with busted rings. kinarfi

We have a lot of pinned topics, in an effort to clean things up, do you think some of them should be deleted? Please specify if you think so. I plan to delete this thread after your comments. Kinarfi

Thanks for the answer, I liked your explanation. Kinarfi

Man, that's a scary thought, not the fire but the building of a new one and correcting and fixing all the things I have done to this one. Might be fun though, to avoid the errors I made on this one. Kinarfi

Did the dry/wet compression test. Cylinder #1 95 Dry 100 Wet Cylinder #2 85 Dry 95 Wet Cylinder #3 155 Dry 165 Wet Cylinder #4 115 Dry 125 Wet Got the diff done, got the power steering done, Got the fuel line changed, Put her back together and run her until she DIES! Kinarfi

Let me rephrase that, I know it would be better to stay with the reinforced black rubber fuel line. My Tygon or POLYURETHANE, Ether, or whatever it's called just developed a 1" split and started spraying fuel all over the place. Sure glad it didn't burn. If you have it, replace it. Kinarfi

I will leave it up to delete any thing that you posted, griping is a valid post in my opinion. kinarfi

I too have had some problems communicating and finding out if a part is shipped or not, but I'm trying to be understanding about their problems with start up getting going. Like I mentioned to them in an email; When you are up to your armpits in alligators, it's hard to remember your initial reason for being in the swamp was to drain the swamp! After all, if not for JMC, who would we go to, the dealers? who would they go to? Kinarfi Oh yea, if you do much mechanicing, you may want to get a circlip or 2 for the CV / stub axle out of the diff, I messed one of mine up and they are not out there any where!!! Finally ended up using the old one after a little filing after trying to make one out of piano spring steel wire.

When I was flying, instead of crashing, I looked into the capacitive fuel gauge for my plastic tanks, it amounts to two pieces of metal, 100 sq. in. or so about 1/16 apart immersed in the gas, as the level drops, the capacitance changes and that can be measure and translated into a voltage the gauge can use. What I need is a source for the metal, ( a tube inside another tube) or an idea of how to make the capacitor, thinking about rolling two pieces of aluminum together with fish line separating them. It all needs to drop through the hole where the current gauge is. Any one have any suggestions? I think this will be my next project. Kinarfi

Did you see who was selling it? he live in the same place as Lenny, oh it is Lenny!! Do you think it will fit and bolt up easily? Thanks, Kinarfi

another suggestion is pull the sender and check with an ohm meter and see if the float is stuck or if the reed switch is stuck or broken and shorted. You can steal a reed switch out of one of those security switches or order from Allied Electronics https://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=8080004, after soldering, put some epoxy on it. Also, if it says full all the time, look for a short to ground in the wiring. Kinarfi

Will do, and I'll add this drawing that I already have in web shots. I also think I said it all backwards. Yep, I did, reread #2 There is a magnetic float in the sender and as the gas level drops it closes the next reed switch down, then lets the upper switch open changing the resistance to ground for the gauge.

I rebuilt rocmoc's sender quite a while back and I'm thinking to build a capacitive gauge one of these days, in the meantime, you can send yours to me and I'll rebuild for cost + postage if you want. Check your gauge by put a test light from the line going to the gauge and ground, if your test light has a small bulb in it use a tail light bulb or a quick short to ground. Should read full. At 47ohm resistor to ground is full, 77ohm is 3/4, 97 ohm is 1/2, 107 ohm is 1/4, and 110 ohm is empty. Yep, said it wrong, 3 ohms is full, 13 ohms is 3/4, 23 ohms is 1/2, 63 ohm is 1/2, 110 ohms is empty. PM me if you want. Kinarfi

How about some photos, if you would like to put them on Webshots, TrooperFolk's photos and albums on webshots PM me and I'll give you the the Username and Password. I even put a video in an album with your name on it for you. Kinarfi

Yea, pretty much what I got in mind, certainly not going to down it during riding season, maybe this winter. Gotta go put my front diff back together, and reinstall my power steering now that Lenny has fixed the gear box output shaft (stronger than I can believe, good job Lenny). May look at Lenny's idea of removing the frame member that prevents dropping the pan so I can get at the crank shaft and the connecting rod bolts. May over insure it and let it roll off a cliff. May over insure me and drive it over a cliff. Not a good thing to write cause if it happened by accident, they may slow the pay off. kinarfi

Let's see if I got this right, Run the test Dry, then add a teaspoon of oil and test again. should raise the pressure if it is a ring problem, but not if it is a valve problem, Correct? Kinarfi

One thing I did notice while doing compression tests, I believe we Joyner installed Iridium Plugs at the get go. kinarfi

Other than taking a while to do, how hard is it to change the rings? Does it mean pulling the engine? Kinarfi

Welcome back to forum, does this make you a noobie? Got any suggestions for the Reunion / Jamboree, did you read The next Jamboree - Get Together - UTV BOARD - Side X Side and UTV Forum Kinarfi

The rest of the story, Joyner supplied me with 2 extra 13/16" plugs and a cheap plug wrench, the type you use with a screw driver, then they go and put 5/8" plugs in. I guess the extra plugs were so I could stop and help the quads out there that need the larger plugs. Anyway, got the compression testing done, #1 - 95 #2 - 95 #3 - 135 #4 - 120. Any Idea as to what I have. Kinarfi

Has any one pulled their spark plugs yet? The manual points to a special "spanner". I started to do a compression check, but I don't have a plug socket that fits in the hole, even the one they supplied in the tool kit doesn't fit. What have you used. Knarfi