Kinarfi

Hi Tyler, Welcome to the forum, have you read the threads about the diff and the upgrades, what year is your trooper? How familiar are you with it's operation, was the fan running? Are you pretty good with mechanics? Also, would you mind filling out you profile so we can all get to know you better, who know, maybe one of us lives just around the corner from you, or the next town. Kinarfi

RTV Silicone for your valve cover will be as sweet as Nanas nuts or I am a Polaris fan. HUH???? Thanks, Kinarfi

If I pull the valve cover off, do I need a new gasket or is the old one reusable? Can I just use RTV silicone? Thanks Kinarfi

Here's an updated photo showing the front and rear ring gears, earlier I suggested the they could use the same differential front and rear. It would work but I figure it must be something to do with the way the pinions mesh with ring gears, if they used the same diff front and rear, it would be like have the rear in forward and front in reverse type of wear pattern. Does anyone KNOW what the reason is for making separate gears for front and rear? Kinarfi

No problem, don't worry about it, I don't have one either, just make sure you get the snap ring on the locker side. The snap ring on the last photo is an absolute must or you WILL lose your front locker function. If Lenny sent nuts for the back side of the ring gear, I suggest you put them in the recycle bin. DON"T USE THEM!!! I just had to take my front differential apart and it had the upgrade bolts in it and in my opinion, it was over kill in the first place and hell to get off, I had to use a chisel to get them to unscrew and the bolts are locktited into the ring gear and I stripped the socket out of the heads of a couple bolts, so you don't need the nut.

Update and some photos of my roof and my overhead lights. Check this one out That is the same bolt that was used on the stabilizer for the lights, feels pretty solid. Kinarfi

What's the differences between that on and stock? Got any photos? Thank, kinarfi

I have one of those soft tops for T2, but took it off and made my own, couldn't make the made one stay tight. A friend gave me some "oil cloth" or some Vinyl fabric plasticized canvas or what ever it's called and I just literally taped it to the bottom of the roll bars, wrapped it from the under side and used black duct tape from the top to the inside, pulling it snug. Also moved my overhead lights to the center. Guess I'll have to post some photos.\ Kinarfi

Upped the fuel pressure back up to 43.5 PSI, 300 kPa as on page 135 #7 of the 1100trooperT2-T4_owners_manual and still having problems with first start of the day. Just another comment. Kinarfi

There is also the Utah's Little Sahara (found out there's several Little Sahara's) near Delta. It has lots of sand, hills, a mountain to try an climb and just out of the park is lots of trails. Just an FYI. Here's a photo of my knee as I flew over the dunes way back then. Google coordinates N39 43 32.99 W 112 18 25.82 for the fee station and they recently upped the fee but made it a 2 day pass, I think. There's lots of area out side the park also. kinarfi

Thanks Gumball, when you get that spec sheet put together, Post it. I think Rocmoc may have a good idea about dropping the N2 out of the shocks, not sure if I have or not, or if I did and Lenny put it back in for me, but from what I've seen, it looks like the shocks top out after a compression and keep on topping to push the seal cap off and then you loose the guide and the shaft bends. I've been under the impression that mine's too stiff for quite a while and I have it adjusted for minimal preload, guess I go bleed the N2 off completely, forgot about that trick. That's one nice thing about my F-O-As, not pressure charge and if I do want some, they say it's ok to use air and start with about 5 pounds and work up, mine is smooth and I like it that way, I hit bump the jolt the front and are barely noticeable on the back, you know like old folks like. A little hyjacking here, sorry, but after breaking a fitting on one of my shocks pulling the camo'd trooper driven by Lewis when he lost the lower gears and got stuck in the water crossing, I had to rebuild it, all I did was replace the oil, Honda 5w fork oil, but since I had to do one, I did them both, easy, & I liked what I saw inside, although I'm no Pro. Kinarfi

That's twice I've seen that happen here on the forum, passenger sided both times. What were you doing, what speed, how much air time? You didn't get any photos of the area / road you were on did you? My thinking is that the front end is over sprung and under dampened. Any Comments anyone. kinarfi

Thanks for the correction Rocmoc, Sorry Flatbed, where you been? Kinarfi

another piece of info that you may want is the weight on each wheel, from rocmoc comes the following info, Trooper T2 weights, 380lb. on each front wheel, 480 lb. on left rear, 520 on right rear TOTAL = 1760 pounds which is posted under Parts, Pieces, and Information thread. You can go to http://www.f-o-a.com and they have shock spring rate calculator you can try. Kinarfi

ERROR ERROR --- The b pin has resistance to ground, but I missed it and didn't test it, but at room temperature, it was 5000+ ohms and since I had reinstalled it when I found this error, I didn't pull it retest it. I assume the ECU looks at A to C and B to ground. After I put it back together, it started on the first try and rev'd up, turns out I had my manual throttle engaged, so I shut down & tried again, same old crap, then I unplugged the sensor and it started, not easily, but it started. Try again tomorrow. kinarfi

Not sure if this is the correct place for this info, but since I'm trying to get easy starting and checking various items, and that's how I came by this info, here's where I'll put it. pulled the engine coolant temperature elemement and did some testing / measuring. Room temp 76f a to c measures 1994 ohms 32 f 5500 ohms boiling at 204f 207.3 ohms 200f - 220 ohms 180f - 300 175f - 325 160f - 416 125f - 800 pin a goes to ECU # 31, pin c goes to ECU # 73, pin b goes to ground. On my sensor, a to c was as above and b had no connection, maybe it is like a shield wire. Maybe it's where my problem lies. More testing. Kinarfi FYI F-32divided by 1.8 = C

Me too, I can go for a ride and talk to who ever is with me without screaming, the sound was very pleasing at first, sounded like power, but that gets old after an hour or two. Still use the headphones from my airplane once in a while for the noise of the squeaks and wind and all and the mikes on them make speaking so simple, don't have to raise you voice at all. The muffler is off of a Harley Davidson, Lenny found a set of 2 in a 2nd hand shop in St. George, Utah and put one on his and one on mine. Oh yea, I had to cut about a half inch off the end of the stock exhaust pipe. LOVE IT. Kinarfi

Myself, I just use long or multiple tyraps, there enough of a grove to hold the boot there and if things come apart, the tyraps allow the boots to slip off the bell and not self destruct, yet it keeps the dirt and moisture out. I've been totally satisfied with the use of tyraps. Kinarfi

I don't think so still having a problem, but once started and warmed the problems gone for the rest of the day. The new starter did help, though. Maybe the ECU thinks the engine is already warm so it doesn't give me a rich enough mix at start up. Need to monitor the temp signal to the ECU one of these days, as soon as I figure out where the temp sensor is, I think it's forward of the knock sensor, can anyone confirm this? Kinarfi

Is this what you meant, Polaris CV Boot Kit # 2203438, (PR-8061) or was there something you wanted added? Think I'll add those video links too. Jeff

If you try that really neat looking method, let us know how it worked, if the boot stud up to that much stretching, please & thanks. Kinarfi

Shortly before the Les took the pictures 18 & 19, That big rock that you can see in picture 18 & 19 was right against my rear wheel and I didn't realize that I scratched the heck out of the wheel until I washed it yesterday. OWWW But I got it cleaned up now and since I had to reoil one shock after the jamboree, I figure I'll do the other and get rid of those long long shock bolts.

I had my axle out the the wheel side CV just the other day, came out going through some whoops, There is a circlip on the end of the axle that pulls through the splines on the CV, there is also a bigger circlip on the bell holding the CV ring in, after the Bell circlip is out, you turn the ring and remove the balls and then the CV ring and you have all into it's individual pieces. If I remember correctly, the way I get my axles off is to pry bar them off the Diff, and then, with the swing arm disconnected from the shock so it can drop way down, I just push all together and the yank on the axle to get it to pop loose. Also, if memory serves, the wheel CV Bell is part of the shaft that the Wheel Hub bolts to. Look at page 182 of the T2-T4 manual that can be down loaded from Parts & Pieces Thread. As I see it, just a good hard pull and the Diff Bell should get the axle loose from either the diff bell or the wheel bell. Then put the the boot or boots on, add the grease and reassemble. Should be easier at home than out in the field. One thing I think makes mine come apart is too much travel in my shocks because I can see where the swing arm has rubbed on the axle and that may have put some more stress on the works. Kinarfi

Got to agree with Mike, good looking Rig, I like the pouches above the dash, nice job on the radiator & snorkel, what did you you use for fender extenders? Thanks for the profile, I'm sure we all will enjoy it. Kinarfi PM coming

Went for a ride 6-30-01, CV came apart on some whoops, found a nice grassy spot and put it back together, need to shorten my limiting strap, got STUCK, Again, , YOU ain't having fun if you don't get stuck!!! Developing some respect for winch power. Took some pictures and videos. 2010-06-30 Les Moss pictures, photos, and videos, from entertainment on webshots Mary Ellen Gulch, American Fork Canyon, Utah Kinarfi Download to desk top and then open google earth and then drag and drop onto google earth.