Kinarfi

First, I would like to thank Daven, Did a wonderful job of leading us around and having places to go. Next, I want to thank Jared for his mechanical expertise, I think we all benefited from his presence. Next, thanks to every one for making it a good get together. And lastly, Here's my contribution of photos and videos, http://news.webshots.com/album/577959293IoRgvY Kinarfi -- Got a couple photos to add here that need some writing done on them, will add as an edit when I get it done.

Well, it's over, so I unpinned it and added this comment to let you know. See Farmingtion, New Mexico - June 11-14, 2010 - UTV BOARD - Side X Side and UTV Forum Kinarfi

The Ranger that visited us was most pleasant and informative, and complimented us on having a clean camp, visited with the kids and made them honorary rangers. We saw the no ride placards and obeyed when a few of went past Brown's spring and as the ranger said, stayed on bladed roads. I wish you and the other riders of NM the best in your endeavors to keep the open land you have and to gain more. I believe we represented Joyner rider in a good light. Kinarfi

State Farm here also, just liability for about less than 90 / year if I remember correctly.

Planning on heading out tomorrow after noon and going 1/2 way and getting there Thursday, figure if I'm the first one there I can park closest to the swimming pool.

Hard to say, We have a jamboree in New Mexico this weekend and I'll have mine there for demos and comments. I'm using the same basic circuitry with a controller made for scooters which will tested also. I fear the liability issue will be the the biggest problem. How ever, I took mine down to St. George, Utah and had a good time with no problems, may need a tweak or two, but that's to be determined at the jamboree. I'll add more after the Jamboree. Kinarfi

Got my interposing relay, that's the fancy industrial name for 'hot shotting', in today, used a 30 amp N.O. relay and #12 Thhn wire from the battery disconnect to the solenoid and it hasn't failed to crank yet, YES!!!!! Did some remembering about the solenoid also, they are set up so that when you apply, the power goes through two coils, one going to ground directly and the other through the starter, so that after it pulls in, the one going through the starter gets bypassed and the one to ground holds it in, It take a lot more power to pull a solenoid in than to hold it in and the one through the starter pull a lot more power than the one to ground. And if you ever think about pulling the solenoid off, make the terminal are well marked so you can put it back on correctly, if you put it back upside down, it will still work for a while, but your pulling power through continuously and while I didn't burn mine up when I did this, it did get hot & smelly, not right away, but an hour or hours later. Kinarfi

As the connection begins to heat and self destruct, the heat is caused by the voltage drop across the connection, and as it self destructs the voltage drop get larger and larger leaving less voltage for the pump and thus the pump can't make the pressure needed. The amount of heat is determined the voltage drop across the connection and the current through the connection, as the voltage goes up, the current will decrease, but the heat (wattage dissipated) will continue to increase up to about a 25% voltage drop and then start falling off, but the damage has probably been done by this point. Hope this is understandable, It's doubtful you have any other problems, like grounds, but it doesn't hurt to check, real often, I have cured problems that I couldn't fine the exact cause of by just pull the fuse or relay and plugging them back in, they seem to make a better contact because of the sliding in & out. Also if you have a loose connection,you should be able to feel it. Kinarfi

I've this several times in 12 v and 110 and 220vac. My theory on it is that a slightly connection develops some heat or corrosion which makes more heat which causes it to loosen and or corrode which makes more heat which........... until you generating enough heat to melt everything but not pulling enough power to pop the fuse. I just finally quits making contact. Kinarfi

As suggested, I put a voltmeter on my starter solenoid, interesting, with my meter on battery term and ground, when it cranked over, I got 9.8 - 10 volts. When it didn't crank, the voltage was 8.5, can't explain that yet. Then I jumpered from battery to solenoid and it never failed to crank and the voltage was 10.5. Guess I'll either put relay or something back there close to the solenoid and starter. Kinarfi

I'll put a volt meter on it tomorrow and post the results. Like I said, I tried starter fluid sprayed into the hole closed up by a rubber plug on the other end of the manifold from butterfly, and now I don't idle, dies every time I step on the clutch and don't hold the throttle open a little. I'M STILL GOING TO THE JAMBOREE!!!!!! Gotta show off my power steering that Lenny and I have built. Would I be out of line to charge for the pleasure of trying my steering out???? yah, it was just a thought. Kinarfi.

This is the exact same problem I have, First start of the day is a real pain. I do believe the problem too rich, but don't know for sure. Tried starting fluid, just made it worse. Another problem I'm having, is the starter doesn't always spin, put a test light on the starter and it appears that the solenoid is not making contact all the time. May have to figure out a method to let the solenoid pull in the starter and a parallel electrical connection, or just keep clicking until it makes contact. Kinarfi

Well That was STUPID, evidently, my speedo problem and my oil pressure gauge problem were related. I had the connectors for each swapped. One problem is that the speedo, oil pressure, fuel gauge and probably the temp and voltmeter and tach all have the same plug and can be interchanged. I took a black magic marker to one, a red to the other and left one unmarked. Hopefully, I won't make that stupid mistake again. I did determine that we have a 255 ohm pressure sender with a switch in it for the oil pressure lite. Also, that black wire protector tubing works great for keeping water trapped, as I was tracing the oil pressure wire, I opened a few of the tubes and had water run out. I eventually plan to redo all the wiring and get rid of all the extra length. Kinarfi Question, Should I pin this so we can all share our stupid stunts? That way we learn from each others mistakes.

I've been running 10-30 oil in mine, has anyone tried using 10-40 or some other heavier oil, I use to run 20-50 in my 100 hp Rotax 4 cylinder horizontally opposed air cooled air plane motor. Any advice for shop owners? Thanks Kinarfi

I got the oils changed and no oil pressure, but then I didn't have a good reading before, sometimes it would just bounce hi to low and sometimes just pin on the high side. Any way, I'm pretty sure the sender is shot, so I need a new one, maybe a new gauge too. Any one have any suggestions? numbers? Prices? Been looking at the TeleFlex Morse Part # IA15001 0-80 psi, 240-33 ohm Gauge -- TeleFlex Morse Part # 57903P 0-80 psi, 240-33 ohm as suggested by Zorro. Thanks, Kinarfi

Getting ready for the Jamboree and changing oils, Being lazy, I had to figure out and easy way to do it, So I pulled the vent hoses and cleaned them and then poured 1/2 quart into each diff through the vent tube. Took a while, but no mess what so ever. I split a quart diff oil between two bottles and tape them upside down to the frame and leave them over night. you do have to pull the fill plug for the air to vent and poke a hole in the bottle. Found very little metal on the magnet and the oil appeared relatively clean. Not like the silver paint from past oil changes. Also, when changing the oil filter, which always makes a mess, I found that if you place a plastic bag over it and poke a hole in the filter, and let it drain into the bag, no mess there either. Jeff

Tried looking up your profile so I could see where it was snownng, but you haven't filled out your profile, Please do so, so we all can get to know you a little bet better. Please and Thanks, Kinarfi

SPOT Shared Page This is a Spot Report, each spot is 10 minutes apart, Started the Ride out with Lenny, on the first day, the next two were just me and the wife. Had good ride, but got a little cold and the wind was up that weekend. Snowed back home in Pleasant Grove, Ut. while I was gone. Sorry, no photos, If your interested in that area and want the .gpx files to load onto google earth, ask for them. Kinarfi

Wish I still had my dirt bikes, they were a hoot, Husky 390 OR, Yamaha 600 XT, several others, Used to be quite a biker, but that was long ago, Just a Trooper driver now, and a mellow one at that! See you down there, getting ready for it already. Kinarfi

Hope it works like a spare tire, If you don't have the spare tire, you WILL have a flat, Murphy's Law!!!! Kinarfi

As I said earlier, I went with FOA and only had to add a limiting strap and have been happy with them, so is my wife. We aren't too aggressive, but I think I could handle more than I'm willing to try. I had good dealing with FOA. Kinarfi

I emailed him but got no response. Sorry, after I looked at my photos, I realized that you back on to it and the front comes up and hits the frame of the trooper, thus the rollers on the front, and you keep backing up so the weight is on the trailer wheels and the tongue is at the proper weight. I put my trooper on the trailer so I only have about 100# tongue weight. I first figured two smaller axles with the rear wheels sitting between them, like the tow trucks do, but when I thought about how much weight that would put on the tongue, and went back and did some studying of my photos. Decided to stay with the trailer I have. Already have it and I don't have to build any thing. But if I didn't have one, I'd consider something like this because my trailer probably weighs as much as the trooper, so I have that much weight to tow around. kinarfi

Tried to get enough photos so we could figure it out, He said that he just backs onto it using 4X4 until it stops him, then secures it with the wheel straps and the strap on the side, inserts the tongue into the receiver he welded on & jacks it up high enough to go on the ball. I think he had electric brakes. Sent him an Email with this thread referenced, asking him if I could pass on his address to you. Kinarfi

Here's some photos of my diff WITH circlip , at the axle end, there is an external circlip inside the CV bell holding the ball cage in. Here's some photos of my CV You can see where the circlip goes. If you don't have a circlip, I think you need it, but I'm no expert. To get my CV off of the diff. I have to use a nail bar to pry it off. Only when my rear swing arm was dropping too far, did it come off easily, and always in a bad way and unwanted. Hope things are working out for you. Kinarfi

I've had a few problem with my CVs because they pulled apart due to the circlip coming off, If all you had was a ripped boot, I suggest you pull it apart and clean it real good and see if any thing is missing or cracked inside, I have one that lost one of it's balls, (no comments allowed, boys) !!! If you find any thing during cleaning and inspection, let me know and if I have it, I'll send it to you. Kinarfi PS, look at http://www.utvboard.com/UTV-Specific-Forums-f14/Joyner-UTV-Forum-f29/Parts-Pieces-Information-Troopers-t392.html for boot replacement numbers and suppliers.