Kinarfi

If anyone is considering using a surge tank, be it a gallon tin can, a plastic bottle or an elaborate round piece of pipe like mine, I found a fairly cheap, small fuel pump you could use. It's the Mr, Gasket S12 for about $45.00. I needed one for my recently purchased 83 motor home and it seems to be doing well. Kinarfi

Couldn't figure out if you're going to the Jamboree or not, but if you need a place to stop, I have a great back yard to camp in if you need to. kinarfi

I got my camping permit today, got a new (to me) camper, an 83 Midas Motor Home, with 460 Ford and everything seems to be in real good shape, the Troopers running and the power steering unit is working good. So I guess I'm ready to come on down. Looking forward to it. Kinarfi

Parts, Pieces, and Information for our Troopers - UTV BOARD - Side X Side and UTV Forum This is mostly a Trooper post, but Sandvipers should use the same stuff, when you find the correct info for sure, let me know and I'll include it for all to share. kinarfi

Probably not, we live up here in the desert (Utah) and are members of the baby boomer generation, such that we don't enjoy cleaning that much. Now sand, that's a different story! I do get into some water once in a while though. Maybe the speakers are water proof too. kinarfi

20100501_2 pictures from current events photos on webshots Went and looked at a friends Trooper Trailer and took a bunch of photos. Pretty neat I thought, guestimated weight is 300 to 400 pounds, a lot less than a trailer. I figure my trailer probably weighs as much as my Trooper or more. Also got a few photos of how he did his heater. Kinarfi

I haven't done anything about this yet, haven't checked my compression, don't have a tester, just a few weird things to contain any oil that blows by. I'll get around to working on it sooner or later and will post what ever I find out. kinarfi

I was looking at the maps, it gave me two routes from Shiprock to the Glade. Is there any good reason to use Road 6480 like my route planner says instead of staying on 64 and taking a left on 170, I think not, It's supposed to be shorter, but it's not enough to make it worth while. That's all l was wondering about. Thanks, Kinarfi

Just called for my camping permit, Linda says we have a commitment to be in Duchesne, Utah on June 9 & 10 and head for the Jamboree on the 11th, but that will probably change. I have my power steering in and I am testing it when the weather is good, but so far, it's working great. I am also working on a cruise control which should be called an engine speed or throttle control since that is what it does. I'm making this because of my handy cap and my inability to hold the throttle steady, my idea is to be able to set the engine speed to something like 2500 or 3000 rpm and head up a hill and it will stay there, and I won't end up floor boarded. Rocmoc, do you have a recommended easy route to follow route to follow?

Taller

Went down to Utah Diesel Center, Inc. in Pleasant Grove, Utah, good guys, and got my Trooper inspected so I could get my license plate renewed, Passed. The owner and his sons have several Troopers, most turbo charged, what you expect from diesel mechanics? They liked my power steering and we swapped a few stories,. He told me that he had changed out his 5th gear and it cut the top speed by about 1000 rpm. He showed me the invoice; Toy Junkies, Johnson Enterprises, 3164 So. Country Club Dr., Suite 9 & 10, Mesa AZ 85219, 480 813 0273 , I think he said he has to send his old gear in for the core charge. I haven't verified any of this, so if you check, please post. Kinarfi

Trooper Modifications pictures from friends & fun photos on webshots

That's interesting, no separator, just dump it into the intake manifold ahead of the butterfly valve. I think that would make for a lot of smoke on mine. Can you take another photo from the seats looking backwards. This was taken Oct 08, It happened again Sat 04-17-10, so it's been a problem all along. Think I can get any warranty on it???? Thanks Kinarfi

Good and snug, don't damage the threads or the screw driver slot and definitely use Loctite, I suggest red, and while you in there, check to see which bolts were used on the ring gear, check my photos and the thread and look at lennys upgrade kit. It may be that you don't need it with the three cylinder as much as the four cylinder needs it. Glad you got off easy, I assume you looked at my photos and you can see how bad it could have been, my ring gear bolts were already having problems and sheared, plus the housing damage. Kinarfi

That is what damaged my rear diff and it is one of the warnings I mentioned in my post about diffs. It is in the Unique fixes posts, http://www.utvboard.com/findpost-t1242-p5545.html Kinarfi

I would say pull it out and take it apart, Take lots of photos as you do it so you can share it, It's not that hard to do, to get the CVs loose at the diff, use a pry bar to pop them loose, I use a green 3 foot nail bar. On my rear diff the input shaft has a pin through it. Be sure and put some sort of marking on the drive shaft to diff input so you can put it back the way it comes apart, I'm not absolutely sure the pin is perfectly centered. Here's some photos I took when I tore mine down and put in strong bolts. Differential Photos pictures, photos, and videos, from travel on webshots Good luck, sounds like you need some. Kinarfi

I have had this happen a couple of times now and it's getting to be a pain. What happens is the breather filter is always wet with oil and it runs out and down all over every thing. I did about a mile of 58 mph, 6000 rpm and then put it on the trailer and notice it had dropped oil all over under the engine. Earlier in the ride I came down some hills and worked the engine in compression and was getting clouds light blue smoke. I'm worried that I may need a ring job because of the blow by and smoke. And earlier, oil had been sucked into the manifold. To protect the manifold from getting filled up with oil again, the tube that goes from the valve cover to the manifold has a bottle in the line with vac coming off the top and line from the valve cover going to the bottom of the bottle. To protect my frame from getting oiled, I plan to run a hose from the breather down and out, maybe through another catch bottle. Any ideas or suggestions? Please. Kinarfi

What do mean, the wheels won't roll or you can't turn left or right or the differential is acting like a solid axle?

I have been following this because mine is messing up, but to clarify, this dropped in the existing holes with no modification, Correct? You can expect to see this in Parts & pieces, so any information is appreciated. Kinarfi

Both Lenny and Rocmoc are extremest I'm lazy and didn't have to modify much, just drill a few holes and got a good ride from FOA shocks. start here Back to shocks - UTV BOARD - Side X Side and UTV Forum - Page 3 Kinarfi

Good job, can you supply some part numbers and where you got your stuff, maybe even a photo of the new gauge & adapter. One thing I have found that work well for adapting is 2 pieces of 1/8" lexan, left over from my airplane crash, paint it black on the back side and it's nice & shiny. If you have an aversion to poking holes in you dash for new switches, indicator lights & such, that little hole above the steering wheel works well for temporary things. use 2 pieces of flexible plastic and a bolt or something the hold them together. Kinarfi

Hi Justin, Welcome to the forum, hope you can hang around and do some enlightening of some of us. You have probably read some of the stuff here, so you can see we like helping each other. Kinarfi

Have a seat and I'll tell you an analytical story. I have had problems getting the trooper to start. Lenny said pull the injectors and see if they spray proper, I did, & they did. So then I tried dumping some gas down the air intake any attempts to fire up were gone, hmmmm, richer and less signs of life, next I increased the pressure of the regulator, and again, no indications of it coming to life, so I floored it and got a few signs that it wanted to run, but only for a moment, and then the moment was gone. hmmmmmm, too rich, about right, probably lean. Backed the pressure off to a little less than 30 psi and I got is started, kept it running and got it warm and worked on a few things and drove it some. Tomorrow, I'll try again and see if that helped. Got to think also about my messing with the IAC, when it operated, it would drive in, then drive out, So I'm thinking, at start up, the IAC drives in until it can't drive any further, backs off a preset amount and assumes that a certain amount of gas will get injected and thus have the correct mixture and run. Too much pressure, too much gas, so instead of adjusting the air, you adjust the fuel via the pressure. That is, the computer sets the air via the IAC, is preset to allow just so much gas in via injector timing, thus the need for proper pressure. Maybe altitude effects (edit) what the fuel pressure should be set at. Kinarfi

While your under there, you may want to consider putting these on for easier access in the future. or maybe this. if interested ask me where I got them

Here is something else about the fuel pressure gauge, It is NOT sealed and will fill up with dirt and water, it will dry out, but it looks like crap. I gently tapped the ring off and cleaned every thing up, washed the dirt out with water and blew it dry with my air compressor and then sealed the glass to the ring and siliconed the bottom and wrapped tape around ring.