Kinarfi

Not the least bit insulting and I thank you for your question and will do just exactly that and see if things clear up. The only bad question in my book is the one that doesn't get asked. Thanks Barry, Kinarfi PS, I messed with my pressure regulator the other day and because it is dead ended, I flushed the connection just in case, I think a small orficed return to tank port would be good so any thing that get in the line after the filter have a way out other than through an injector.

Your last sentence seems to be right on, so if I get an injector and put it where that black plug is on manifold body and hook it to a push button, I would have a dandy primer that sprays. The one mentioned earlier is just a small hand pump and I don't know if it sprays or just dumps raw fuel into the manifold.

Do you have the 1100trooperT2-T4_owners_manual? Mine is 27,248 Kb, so I can't email it, so I zipped it to 23,831 Kb and I think I can email that, do you want it? PM me with email address if you want it. (ANY ONE) Kinarfi

My trooper has had problems starting for quite a while, like in the morning or first start of the day. Been doing some checks on O2 sensor, IAC, TPS, it just won't quite catch fire and run. I thinking of trying a primer to richen things up a bit like I had on my plane, Search Results - 800-Airwolf Rotax Parts Online Store features Ultralight Parts and Accessories. . Anyone tried this yet? any thoughts? Kinarfi

Thanks for the ideas, moved the driver's seat back about 1 1/2 inches today, passenger side hits the gas fill tube already, so no moving that side.

Checked my O2 sensors today, they were both good, Seimans VDO 5WY3173A with 7M12 stamped on the shoulder of the 22mm hex head. Learned something I thought was interesting, when cold, the white lead for power measure about 6 ohms and the sensor lead measure open. If you power it up 12 volts, it draws 2 amps. As it was heating up, I was measuring resistance and saw the resistance go from open to zero to negative. That only happens when you are measuring a voltage with your meter on resistance. The output appears to be a voltage from about .65 volts to - .025 depending on which way you hook up your leads. On mine, when in free air or with air from my air compressor blowing on it, it measured -.025 volts, when I lowered into a can with gasoline in it, not into the gas, just above it, the voltage went to .65 volts, when I blew on it, it went close to 0 volts, when exposed to butane gas from a lighter, not lit, the voltage went from -.025 to about -.010, but I don't how much gas I was getting on it, shut have tried a lit lighter, but I didn't think to. I have been having a tough time starting my Trooper, which is why I was checking the O2 sensors and I pulled the IAC and after cleaning it good, inside and out with brake cleaner fluid, I plugged it back and had my wife turn the key on while I watched the IAC. It ran and moved the "bullet" up so far that I couldn't put it back in. To get it back down, I had to squeeze it while my wife turned the key on and off several times, I could keep it from coming out any further, but couldn't get it to go back in until I opened the throttle and blocked it open. Then it backed off and I installed it. After I got my Trooper running, warmed up, driven around some, and parked in the garage, I unplugged the IAC to see if it starts up OK after it cools and has set for a while. If it does, I'll cover the terminal and leave it that way. Kinarfi

Here's a thought for you, how much gas do you have in you tank when this happens, It may be uncovering your intakes momentarily with deceleration or down hill. There is a good thread about this problem, and maybe it's why you're losing power some times and not other, plenty of fuel versus low fuel. The final good ideas didn't come out until around post 89 --- Fuel Tanks & Mods - UTV BOARD - Side X Side and UTV Forum - Page 5 --- The surge tank and 2nd pump, even if the surge tank is only a 1/2 gallon or so, mine is over a gallon and a 1/2. I'm almost sure the fuel pump runs all the time the motor is running, I don't know if it's triggered by the alternator or some other sensor, as suggested earlier. kinarfi

Once the engine is running the battery connection much less important than when starting. IMHO

Does your 100 octane race fuel have a blue tint to it? If so, it's probably 100 LL (low lead) aviation fuel. That's what I used in my 100 HP Rotax motor, Rotax said no lead gas and I thought that was I was getting from the gas station sold 100 octane gas, but I finally got them to confess that it was 100LL avgas which has a light blue tint, Quite pretty actually. By coincidence, the Rotax was on the airplane that I crashed in 2006. Another interesting thing I did once, I put some 130 octane avgas in my 2 stroke dirt bike once, expecting to have fantastic power, NOPE, when ever I tried to rev up, it fell on it's face, but talk about low end grunt, that was fantastic. During my aviation training, I was taught the the higher to octane, the slower the burn, to prevent detonation and knocking, and when you consider maximum RPM in a piston air plane engine is on around 2500, and they are short stoked huge pistons, it makes sense. Kinarfi

Minor corrections, electrically, (This way the computer has to deal with less amperage as the current going to ground is less then the current going to the devise.) In an electrical circuit, Current is the same through out the circuit, like water through a hose, voltage is dropped, lost, used by the various components, like water pressure, some of the pressure is reduced by a pressure regulator, some is reduced again by a valve. The reason for putting the switch in the negative leg has to do with ease of controlling the current, it only takes a very small current and less than 1 volt to turn on a transistor which can pass a lot of current or no current and no voltage to turn off a transistor and stop the current and power dissipated at the ECU is minimal, thus less heat generated. Another thing to be aware of is when checking the voltage to something like the canister valve, sometime a test light is more accurate (less misleading) than a good volt meter. The lite has a relatively low resistance (100 -200 ohms) and a good volt meter has 11,000,000 ohms which can give misleading readings. You were probably measuring the leakage current of the open collector switch in the ECU when you got the 2.76 volts. Also, the reference to 12 volts is a generic reference to battery voltage, any where from 12 to 15, 13.2 for a fully charged battery, 14.4 for My Trooper when running, 12.6 for a good older battery, 10 says you may have a dead cell in you battery or another problem.Interesting thing about Ben Franklin, Maybe he just didn't want to sound an authoritarian, I do the same. Kinarfi

Ball Joint Fix pictures from current events photos on webshots Wish I could give you a car, year, and model so you could go get what you need, but while your working on this, if you open the steering box up, would you please measure the distance between the stops and report back, Also If you find the information, Please post & I'll put it in parts and pieces. Thanks Kinarfi

Yes it will work, but depending on where the alternator regulator picks up it's sensed voltage, which is probably internal, the isolator (assuming it is solid state) will cost you about .7 to 1.2 volt depending on load. Another method would be to use 2 relays that get their pull in power from the the alternator, One heard of one disadvantage to relays and that was when one battery is dead, you start for a short time and turn off, during that time the dead battery sucked most of the life out of the good one. Only heard of this once. With the recent development of the schottky diode, that would be the way to go. It only has a forward voltage drop of about .3 to .5, very acceptable. kinarfi PS, If you want to make your own for around $10, PM me. http://www.vishay.com/docs/94246/94246.pdf just under $3 each, you'll need 2 and chunk of aluminum to mount them to.

Rotate the sending unit a little and drill new holes. Use the original screws if you have a metric tap, or switch to self tapping screw. You may even want to replace the gasket with a thicker gasket or a cork gasket. If you have some good silicone smear some on the red plastic where the wires come out. The gas is probably causing it to go brittle, I bought some Permatex (I think) Black Magic high temp something like five years ago and it is still usable and very good stuff. I recommend it!! that's my 2 cents worth. Kinarfi

Fantastic, guess I know what I'm gonna try next. My throttle body was full of oil when I took it apart, I cleaned my IAC but only with alcohol, I will also do ohms testing on it too. Again, congrats and we're all glad to hear we helped someone. Kinarfi

Do you know what the stock setting is for fuel pressure and what setting would you advise?

After thinking about what Lenny said about the IAC (referred to as DLA on page 106 of the Owner's Manual / Parts Manual T2, T4 with a picture of a slightly older Yellow Trooper like mine on the front page, Winch is down low,) is that after you get started and every thing is idling just fine, disconnect the IAC plug and the it has to stay where it is. It is my guess that it readjusts every time you start it. I'm going to undo mine the next time I get it started and see if it starts better after that. Kinarfi

Hope I'm not off subject, but I've seen IAC in a few places in this thread, but I can't find it in my manual, so what is it, which page is it on in the 1100trooperT2-T4_owners_manual, please. Thanks Kinarfi

You say you have 1100 miles on it, it may be 1100 kilometers. I have the 2008 and it is in kilometers. As for "I was looking at the steering today and the shaft that pushes through the steering box seems to be maxed either way I turn it, looks like they could have added an inch to each end to make it turn sharper but its quite possible I am an idiot." I thought the same and when I started to try to do something about it, I found the CV started bumping/binding almost immediately upon adding more turning capabilities, Pretty sure they are giving us all they can. Welcome to the forum and stay in touch with us all now that your one of us. Kinarfi

A little explanation about the steering mechanism, the wheels are a tad back from the differential so the CV starts to bind on the wheel turning inward. If you want to balance and get all turn you can get, read Steering Linkage Problem - UTV BOARD - Side X Side and UTV Forum and Laser Alignment - UTV BOARD - Side X Side and UTV Forum and then ask questions if you decide to go for it. I didn't reread everything, so I don't remember just what was said. If you decide to go for it. I will be glad to post how I would do it.

Wheelies probably wouldn't be a problem, but to unwheely, you would have to get everyone out to push it back over How's this Rocmoc?

The throttle position sensor is on the the opposite side from the cam that the throttle cable is on, it is spring loaded so that it follows the throttle position, if it had a more powerful spring, you would not need the throttle return spring, but it is to small and that is not it's purpose. I is just a potentiometer and if you hook an ohm meter to it, and operate the throttle, you will see the resistance change.

I posted this thinking that it was a response to your problem, Parts - UTV BOARD - Side X Side and UTV Forum Also found this in the manual about the canister valve. Read the last sentence.

I have more of a problem with it blowing oil out rather than letting it in, does yours stay dry? Kinarfi

Welcome to the forum, sounds familiar for both Renegades and Troopers, I have the Trooper and have the same problem. Not cured yet, but I'm working on it. If you come with a fix, Please post it. Again, Welcome to the Forum, a lot of good, helpful people here that are interested in helping and being friendly. Kinarfi PS So we can all get to know you a little better, please fill out the profile. Thanks

Hire a kid to drive the GMC, You get both rigs where you want and the kid has a hoot doing it, he would probably pay you for letting him to do.