Kinarfi

On some intermittent problem, that I have had in the electrical industry and other places, I have often resorted to unplug everything and plug it back in and it surprises me how often this grenade approach works, covers more area than a shot gun approach . My theory is that one pin some where is making and breaking contact, whether dirty, corroded, not seated properly, etc. gets a better contact with this procedure, And I assure you, it has worked for me more than just a few times. I would start with the plugs at the computer and eyeball all the pins in the plugs to see if they all protrude the same amount. Hang in there and if you don't get it fixed, remind us periodically and maybe someone will have a good tip for you.

Welcome to the forum, Just take you time and scan the various topics and read what you can, if it's been a problem, it's probably been talked about. If you have something specific that needs addressing, we're always glad to help. And Like I always ask, suggest, please fill out your profile so we can all get to know you a little better. Kinarfi

When you find good stuff like the right boots, etc. post the part number and source and I'll add it to part and pieces. Thanks Kinarfi

GEE, Sorry to hear that you didn't get to play. I didn't know Montezuma's Revenge was bad enough to need that much care, I thought it was just the "runs" . Must be a nastier bug than I thought it was. Glad you're getting better. Kinarfi OOH, ick, just googled Montezuma's Revenge, oooh ick.

Just remembered the name of the cables I used on my airplane, Teleflex cables, They could push as well as pull and worked well. I think they would be a good choice for the lockers. Take a look at google.

Just the rears --- with springs and mounting accessories

If I remember correctly, when I took mine off, the wheel does go on and off by hand, no pressing, but the axle nut needs a whole lot of torque, I borrowed some sockets from Checker Auto and 1/2 breaker bar and 5 feet of pipe to torque mine down, no problems yet, be sure to put the cotter pin in. Kinarfi

Wrapping the wire around the plug lead creates an inductor which messes with the current flow, the meter may only need the smallest of signal to work, Just on crossing or parallel for a short distance and an alternate cylinder just in case that one is special to the computer some how. The main thing was how many wraps it had, Parallel may not work and if it doesn't, cross the lead at 90 degrees. It all has to do with magnetics and current flow. Did it say any more than this? It starts counting when it feels electrical pulse through spark plug wire and shuts itself off when the pulses stop. Helps monitor service intervals. Kinarfi

You said it had several wraps around the plug wire, try laying the wire along the plug wire without wrapping around the plug wire and see if that works and use a different cylinder just in case that has something to due with your x problem. The wrapping may have caused part of the problem. Went to dubachracing.com but couldn't fine any thing about the installation of the hour meter. What was you link you used. Kinarfi

We all buy what we do for our own reasons, I'm handy capped and need the size of a Trooper to be able to swing my legs in and out. Can't even get into some of the other units out there, So yes, I'd buy another and right now would be a good time to do so with the prices being down. kinarfi

Looks like I paid $685 for shocks and springs 8/09, I did have to use limit straps, but they don't top or bottom out any more.

Chalkstk, Thinking out loud here, but I may be that the wire was supposed to be taped to the plug wire to act as a capacitive pick up like a timing light pick up but not electrically connected. If they nicked the insulation of the wire it was taped to, try taping it to another plug lead with out nicking the plug wire.

Here's the wiring plug for a Trooper, don't know it's the same as yours or not. Taped to a spark plug wire? Doesn't make sense here either. To check you hour meter, Just hook it to 12 volts for 6 or 7 minutes and see it you get .1 hour change, but it was working before? right. I may need to be hooked to the tach signal if it works off a pulsed input. Do you have a name and model off of it. Hooking it to 12 volts could damage it, but probably not. Let us know if you have any other info about the meter, Name, model, how many wires, color of wires, etc. Kinarfi

I have FOAs and I like them, got pretty good support also Back to Shock pictures from current events photos on webshots

Hi Plumber, on mine, I just use 5 psi fuel pump and made a circuit to turn it off when the surge tank was full and back on at around half full and had a 1.5 gallon surge tank, if you need any help that I can give, just ask, if you want the switch set up, I made a solid state set up and you will need a magnetic float in an aluminum tube, or just pump the fuel into the take near the top and return off the top to the filler tube and let it run all the time. Kinarfi

Welcome to the forum, Sorry about the PM, hope you forgive me. This does sound like an interesting problem and I'm sorry I can't help at this time. Kinarfi

Do a search on differentials, this subject was covered extensively but about the trooper differentials so it may not apply, particularly about swapping front for back. they are left hand right hand identical. Kinarfi

http://www.utvboard.com/UTV-Specific-Forums-f14/Joyner-UTV-Forum-f29/Parts-pieces-sticky-t1514.html

Time's up, Lenny makes this and sells it on ebay, I have it on my rig now as part of our EPA Steering unit (Electrical Power Assist). I tried a few other methods like shimming and Teflon between the cap and rack which worked sort of, but this thing works good! If you ever sit in front of your trooper and have some one rock the steering wheel back and forth, you'll see that the ends of the rack move up and down wheck creates a fair amount of slop in the linkage. The other problem with stock is the steel rack sliding against the aluminum cap. No amount of grease can prevent the galling the happens, Lenny's devise has a smooth steel surface for the rack to slide against. I don't have very many miles on mine yet, but I like it. Kinarfi

ooh ooh ooh ooh, I'm know but I'll wait to see what Lenny says, or 12 hours, which ever happens first. Hint, it will be included with the Electric Power Assist when we get it to market. Kinarfi

Reply and I'll post and alphabetize by main items Please do not make inquiries on this thread, PM the person, this thread is for part only, if every one asks questions, the meat of the thread will get lost and buried.

Unique Fixes - UTV BOARD - Side X Side and UTV Forum just a little post I feel every trooper owner should read about differentials, Maybe it's fixed with the newer units, don't know. Kinarfi

I did that, it's in the pinned area, "Extra Parts and Pieces" I you have something, post it and I'll move it to the #1 post and list you name behind it, then people can contact you about it. I'm thinking that would be better than 50 different posts to read through to see whats out there. Comments or ideas welcome, we could even have a photo album to put pictures in on webshots. Just another late night can't sleep idea.

Someone locked my old power steering (electric) thread, guess that's ok, Any Way, I got the design working very well and now we are going into the test stage. On my rig, in the garage, it is working beautifully, and when I get my starter fixed and a few other things necessary taken care of, I'll be out test driving. Works very smoothly and makes turning very easy, need to get out side and test it in 4 X 4 and Lockers in. Kinarfi

I hate it when I make stupid mistakes and then post them as if I knew what I was doing, I pulled the solenoid off the starter and put it back on 180 degrees off. Ignore my comments about the power to activate being - , it is + and I have to pull my starter again and fix my stupid mistake. Damn, I hate doing stupid stuff, and then having to fix it. Thanks Kinarfi, the dumb shit.