Kinarfi

I think I found the problem with my starting problem, One the starter didn't always engage and it was hard to start. The starter had a not tight enough connection for the solenoid. Some how, oil got sucked into the intake manifold and it wetted everything from the butterfly in. Took the air bypass plunger (or what ever it's called) and cleaned it with denatured alcohol and managed to move the plunger by hand, hope I didn't ruin it. and cleaned up the throttle position sensor and clean the air temp sensor (if that is what it is) and washed the throttle body thoroughly with soap and water, The ugly part was the "mud" on the filter side of the butterfly valve, I had cleaned the air tubes earlier after putting my snorkel on (I highly recommend snorkels to every one to get the intake up into clean air instead of the dusty area around the engine), but didn't get inside the throttle body at that time. The air tubes were still spotless. Any one have any ideas of how the oil gets sucked in? I think it comes in through the little tube that goes to the top of the valve cover. Didn't get everything back together yet, tomorrow, will post results. Question about starter solenoid, does the lead going to the solenoid supply the + power or the - ground to activate it. All the starters I've dealt with previously received + power, it appear troopers receive a ground to activate. Thanks Kinarfi PS fear not about taking the throttle body and stuff apart, it goes back together very simply. I was quite worried about getting into it.

Sweet, how much did it cost. How thick is the material and what is the material used. I assume the metal bars are skid bars, do they need to be embedded? Who has the template now? kinarfi

Are you saying that the Iridium type is standard? if so, I'm impressed. They lasted over 90,000 miles in my GMC Yukon with a 350 in it. kinarfi

I want to be President, you guys just need to come up with the money!!!!

My wife just asked when the Jamboree was and I had to go look, so for every one, here's an early thread with date. correct me if I'm / it's wrong. I also plan to change the name of this thread so it includes the date. Kinarf

Hey Lenny, Rocmoc, Cinda, ricksrb, any one want to start a business? Kinarfi

Thanks for the suggestion, it's done. Kinarfi

for those of you who haven't been inside their differentials yet, I highly recommend that you do, and change the bolt and make sure this set screw is tight, if it backs off, the pin can come out and grind away at the inside of the diff. take a look at the whole album. Kinarfi. it happened to me and here's another one on a renegade. http://www.utvboard.com/findpost-t1591-p6278.html

for those of you who haven't been inside their differentials yet, I highly recommend that you do, and change the bolt and make sure this set screw is tight, if it backs off, the pin can come out and grind away at the inside of the diff. take a look at the whole album. Kinarfi.

Fixed the photo link for you, I suggest you read and consider order the diff kit from Lenny, especially if you oil ever starts to look silvery. Differential Upgrade Kits are available - UTV BOARD - Side X Side and UTV Forum Kinarfi

That one looks pretty sharp while it's clean, wonder how hard it would be to clean back up after a day in the dirt and mud, but I do like the heat rap, I was and still am concerned about mine being a source of burns. Lenny found two Harley Davidson mufflers at a second hand store and made one for each of us. I really like the sound of mine and it looks good too, and when Lenny builds something, it's built good. If you want to do it your self, I've posted an elbow source somewhere, probably under mufflers if you do a search. Kinarfio

Used to there with my boys and their friends, and jump in the canal to cool and clean off, I guess that's a ticketable offense now, but it was hoot back 15 years ago. Kinarfi oh yea, I had a 390 OR Husky back then and most my faculties, physical ones any ways.

While this is a good idea in a perfect world, I would never allow my Email and address and phone to be publicly available on a forum, too many spammers and scammers out there. This would need to be a behind the scenes operation and probably done with PMs. I have some info on several members in my contacts file that include Jim Burns, former owner of Joyner (I think), but I won't pass it on because I don't remember getting permission to do so. What I'm saying is if you want a list, pm those who you want on it and ask, if they send you the information, keep it to your self unless they say to pass it on. Kinarfi

Hi Rocmoc, in my case, I discount cold weather, Trooper is always in the garage, heated, and doesn't like to start and other times I've had severe problems of it not lighting when cranking was in Moab, where it started with ease when pushed and clutch dump, instantly firing up. I did run the stock air filter for a while and had that fine dust in the intake tubing, which I cleaned all the way down to the throttle body, so I probably need to clean the inside of the rest of it, guess I'll do that when I get around to pulling the starter for inspection, which definitely clicks in, but doesn't turn over. May add an external solenoid in parallel with the internal solenoid. I wonder how a solid-state solenoid would work, say 5 74amp FETs in parallel???? Just a little rambling here. Kinarfi

First a little explanation, I have rigged up a cigarette lighter on my dash for power to spot lights and such and to keep my battery up, I have rigged up a plug in for my lighter that I can hook a trickle charger to and it goes to my battery. The other day, I was having trouble getting mine to start and was worried about running the battery down so I hooked up my power supply for test bench to the lighter socket and it lit up just fine. It may be that my power supply was feeding the computer and ignition and the battery was feeding the starter. My thinking is that the wiring drops the voltage down to far for the ignition and or computer. My thoughts are that the ignition and computer may need to have direct wiring to the battery. It may actually have it, but I haven't looked to make sure, I just know that with power supplied at the key, it started easily. Something to investigate..Another idea is a small battery for the ignition circuit, controlled by the computer, that can't be drained the the starter. Kinarfi

My son goes down to Mexico about once a year on his motorcycle and I would like to go with him in my Trooper, Anyone know the laws about driving a trooper down there. Here are his 4 stops so far, He sends it out each night so me and ma know where he's at. Very interesting. 26.24537,-112.4771 - Google Maps 26.87924,-113.13506 - Google Maps 27.73386,-113.48991 - Google Maps 30.05963,-115.72517 - Google Maps Thanks Kinarfi

What are our chances of getting you put up a few photos about this, I've been working on my (our) power steering project and haven't had time for other stuff, but when I try to start the Trooper, I have a real problem lately, maybe I need to replace the gasoline, Which by the way is the mid grade, always, do you think we need any better on do we even need that??? Kinarfi

Here I sit, all broken hearted, tried to play with my Trooper, but couldn't get it Started. Forgive the plagiarism, even more so if you know where it came from. Tried to start the Trooper but it wouldn't quite catch and run. Will also need to pull the starter and check the solenoid contacts. Suggestions anyone? Kinarfi

http://www.utvboard.com/index.php?s=&s...dpost&p=475 Look this post over and you'll find a PDF of the wiring diagram that may help. Let know, and good luck. Kinarfi

So now your sharing and giving your headache to the rest of us? Thanks I have mine with State Farm. $295.90 / year or one set of tires. oh my head!!! Kinarfi

Welcome, that is an ugly picture, would think that would break like that. There are some things that have been done to the radiators on this forum, you may want to do a search for them. Again, Welcome, got some good people here that are all willing to try to help. Here's what I did, http://www.utvboard.com/index.php?s=&s...post&p=3848 the fan shroud extend in so air passes thru the radiator only where the fan is, pull in out a little so it can pull air across all the radiator. Kinarfi

Welcome, be sure and search out the posts on differentials. Sounds like you may developing a problem several of us have had. The bolts that hold the ring gear on shear off. Kinarfi

As I see it, and someone please correct me if I'm wrong. but small engine ports opening into larger exhaust ports is OK, but large engine ports opening into small exhaust ports would be disastrous and would need correcting. Someone explain if there would be turbulence that would be a real problem with this set up or not. Would we be better off with smaller exhaust pipes that match the engine ports? Thanks, Kinarfi

I sure hope there is lots of just riding and it's not all rock crawling, I prefer putting miles of driving under me with minimal rock crawling. I'm sure it there though, Just felt it necessary to make sure. Kinarfi

I have the F-103N Valve (w/Nipple) on mine and put a vinyl tube on it and I don't get oil on me or have to remove any skid plates. LOVE It. Leave the tubing up above of the skid plate and pull in down to drain, just stick the end in an empty milk bottle and let it drain. Kinarfi.