Kinarfi

http://www.utvboard.com/index.php?s=&s...post&p=4609 Took a ride and the shocks & springs were SSOOOOOO nice, My lights shine a little lower than I remember though, maybe I'll back off the rear spring preload some more, or just readjust all my lights. Kinarfi PS nuff about my shocks and springs.

Went for a nice little, it got late ride Sunday, Saw 3 Moose, some deer, a porcupine (I thought they had gone extinct around here, 1st in several years), lots of fall colors, some deer hunters, an owl. Went to honk 'HI' at some campers and the horn stuck on and I drove down the road with the horn blaring for about a mile where I stopped and pulled the wires off the horn. Had the left head light fail. Saw some neat new stuff that was blocked earlier. Don't know if the Forest service opened then up or if others removed the road closed signs. Down load attached .GPX file and drag & drop onto google earth. Kinarfi Sorry, no photos, camera problems.

I kept and washed the Joyner Prefilter and put that on to keep the larger stuff out like sand and such, it was fairly tight, but it fit. The RC-4160 is a tad narrower and a tad longer than the stock one. If I wasn't snorkel to get the filter up out of the dirt, I would have to think about putting the vacuum cleaner bag from my wife's vacuum on for the sand Actually, with a good cage, that might work pretty well, cut one end off and tyrap it to the intake after you put piece of rolled up chicken wire screen or something similar inside, Maybe even turn the bag inside out. Cheap, disposable, and probably real good, think about how fine the dust in the house is. gotta quit thinking. it's starting hurt.

Well, I just finished putting my new K&N RC-4160 on. do you think it'll stay cleaner if I leave the cellophane on? It certainly should, considering I probably wouldn't go far that way. enough smileys Kinarfi.

Started cleaning my air filter and the way I usually do it is to roll it in gas to cut the oil, then wash it with dish soap and water, including a hose end sprayer, then blow the water out of it with the discharge from my shop vac, then dip it in gas that has filter oil in it and let it dry. Got to the blow the water out stage and noticed there were places with no filter element present. New K&N RC-4160 Air Filter: $48.99 +tx, will be at Autozone tomorrow. Any body have any thing to say about this method? Is gas washing to harsh? Thanks, Kinarfi

Just trail riding and no racing or trying to slide, that sounds like what my wife and I do and so far and after some replies from F.O.A. I give them a thumbs up and suggest you consider them also. My wife says they're good also. Kinarfi

More questions to and answers from [email protected] at F.O.A. QUESTION : Most people use nitrogen instead of air, do you think there is much difference? Can you send me the correct eye adapters? While I did get mine ground down, on a grind stone, I'm sure the machined pieces will fit better. So Far, I'm very happy with the ride I'm getting. ANSWER : Yes, I will send them today Air is 87 percent N2 and it never touches the oil so you are fine. The main reason people use N2 is because, air pressure in most shops only goes to about 100 psi and many times (not me) but many people like to run up to 200 PSI so, N2 is the easy way to get the 200 PSI But start with 25 and move up 25 at a time ..... Mike As of today, I have to give these shocks and springs my endorsement, only flaw was they took a while to get here and I got the wrong eye adapters, I like the low pressure which I think will help keep it from blowing seals, the price was good and the ride is great. Two Thumbs UP!!!! Kinarfi

Don't give up on me yet folks, I had another idea that I think will be very impressive, Got my shocks are done so now I can look into my newest idea, already bounced it off Lenny, Now I just need to do some prototyping. It will definitely be under $700 and maybe way under, Just cutting myself some slack. Kinarfi

Shock / Ride Report----Shocks are F.O.A. 10" stroke and 26.3 fully extended with 400 over 600 springs,----- Kinarfi Went 117 Kilometer/ 72 Miles, about 5 hours, down load GPX file and drop it in google earth. The shocks worked great and I am very satisfied with them and I haven't put any air in them yet. Think I'll back off the preload in the front shocks to soften them up now, the rear is very smooth. :) . Here's the first of several photos taken today, some have a red dot added to show where I'm going to be in a while from where I took the photo. Does that make sense? I think the best way to see these is to use the slide show function. Enjoy, Kinarfi

I emailed my shock supplier, [email protected], and asked a few questions, thought you might be interested. QUESTION: When I got the shocks, they were fully collapsed, I thought they would be extended or held collapsed because of the nitrogen pressure, I assume they are charged, am I correct? and for troopers, you need to shorten the eye adapter to .630". I had to grind mine down and .63 seems to work. Why are the bolts so long, are the intended to have the limit straps mounted on them? ANSWER: We send the longest bolts to fit the longest Joyners out there, after selling a lot of sets, we have seen they have alot of different bolt lenghts. They sent the wrong eye adaptors, the should have sent the Joyner ones, they sent the long ones, sorry and I would put about 50 PSI of air pressure on them to start and see if they are too soft, if so, add 25 PSI air until you like the ride. Mike I shortened the straps so I only had 26 1/4" from bracket to top of 2 X 2, used for straight edge, and took everything off the jacks, sits good, slight droop, put bungees on to pull the play in the straps forward away from the exhaust. Drove it down to fill with gas and got a surprise, I had pumped all the gas out of the tank into the surge tank and when I filled it ------- I expected to put about 10 gallons in. To my surprise, I only got 7.619 gallons, so I went home and measured my tank, did the math, 8.25 gallon, read the manual, 30 liters = 7.925 gallons. With the aprox 1.5 gallons in the surge tank, I'm still short of 10 gal. Just an FYI. Kinarfi

QUOTE (firmskid @ Sep 22 2009, 11:54 AM) * I have the newer model with the filter box rather than the cone filter. The box and filter don't match very well and the stock filter is real junk. I am still working out the filter and fit but a little grease on the filter flange has stopped the dust from getting around the filter....... http://www.utvboard.com/Parts-Pieces-Informat-t392.html If you have the new 09 filter box, w/ Fram # CA-7764. Cheers Mike

Third time is the charm I hope, start with this foto and look a 8 of them, I backed off the preload, and put a much tougher limiting strap on with better clamps, Set the distance to 26 1/2 from the bracket to the top of the 2x2. Any more and things got tight. Letting it hang on the straps over night to see if they stretch or slip. The CV came apart, a couple of times, and by the time I got it into the garage, the bell had been damaged, I had an extra from when they warranted the axle because the outer CV came apart 3 times and the last time it lost one of the balls. They let me keep the axle and inner CV, so I put that one on this axle and all seems well. Kinarfi

I still have the stock one, and like hammerdn, I oil it, but I mix some sticky type filter oil with gas, dip the filter in and let it dry, AFTER, I clean it by dipping/rolling it in gas to cut the oil and then washing it with lots of very soapy water and a good rinse and dry. I will admit that I want to change to K&N when I can afford it. Shocks came first, so I'm down on funds, and Linda says I can't spend any more on this thing that seems to break every time out, but the last was my fault, not the machines. Kinarfi

I'm not sure this belongs here or reasons for Limit Straps, here! My new shocks and wimpy limit strap did this!!!! If you get too much travel downward, it pulls your CVs apart and you no longer move. I put mine back together on the trail and tightened up my limit strap and it was either to weak or got melted by the exhaust, but it let go and overextended the swing arm and pulled it apart again. Linda had to go get the truck and trailer to rescue me and the Trooper. At least I had some good scenery while I waited. Should have taken some photos during the ride, I live at the base of a beautiful mountain so I have beautiful places to go. Kinarfi and of course, a post script, Spot Returned this; http://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/v...dK3tDviJ17FEDOq

Got it all together and tires on and off the jack and MAN! was the rear end low, no preload. So, jack it up, drop the CVs, drop the limit straps, drop the swing arm, pull the lower mounting bolts, move the 400s to the top and 600s to the bottom, run the preload screws down to about 2 1/2 inches from the top, which, with the shocks extended, it only took up the slack. Preload compression came just letting it sit approximately level, and with the preload, my wimpy webbing won't hold the limits, so I'm going to use a heavier, stiffer strapping, at least it's blue like the springs. Sure is a lot easier the second time. Short ride on pavement and hunting potholes to hit, felt pretty good. Still need a test run. Kinarfi In case you missed the photos earlier, start with this one

I'm kind of experiencing the same thing, Thinking we need to follow the fix in unique fixes. http://www.utvboard.com/index.php?s=&s...post&p=4468 Just a thought. AND how hard is the starter to change or the solenoid, mine clicks in, but no starter. kinarfi

Posted, move up two ;, did an edit on previous post.

Door bell rang today, It was UPS delivering my shocks, yay!!! As soon as my show is over, I'll go put them on and take photos to add as an edit. Edit time, Got most of it done and it only took about 5 hours and I got done in no small part, Thanks to my Wife Linda, Stayed by my side through it all. Had to pop the CVs off of the differential to get the swing arm to drop down far enough, had enough travel to be able to put the springs on with travel left over. Had to grind about a 1/16 inch off each eye spacer,--- greased a 1/2" drill bit shank and slid it on and held it from sliding down with one of the spacers and held it against the grind stone in such a way that it spun and ground down evenly. The spacers slide through the bracket holes and the eye spacers keep everything between the brackets which are not squeezed together. You'll see, look at the photos, Many of them are captioned, so start with this one and read the captions. Thanks Kinarfi oh yea, the slide show works well too. A quick question, which springs goes on top, heavy or light, It looks like I may have put mine on wrong after looking at the photos and looking at the stop.

I imagine you have this long fixed, but the NAPA CVB6862340 Boot kit comes with grease and a snap ring and a Circlip and bands. I used some of the grease and the circlip recently when Mine did the same thing, I used black Tyraps to secure the boot. Kinarfi PS If this happens to you, try to tie the axle up and pad/protect the splines with paper, wood, leather, or what ever to keep them from grinding again metal. I haven't tried this, but if you have a pry bar, you could pop the CV at the diff loose and remove the axle.

http://www.utvboard.com/topic/3168-joyner-parts-and-all-chery-and-lj276-engine-parts/?p=18349 4wd activator -- rocmoc -- New electric activator Brake rotors -- rocmoc -- used set of the smaller rotors Brake Master cylinder -- rocmoc -- New Differential, rear -- Kinarfi -- Diff is damaged, but I believe it is still serviceable, and I think I did the upgrade, definitely the new bolts. Gaskets -- rocmoc -- used intake manifold gasket Transmission -- rocmoc -- New set of shift cables Transmission -- rocmoc -- used still good clutch with throwout bearing Transmission -- rocmoc -- used still good short throw clutch slave cylinder It should be noted that all parts are not for sale but just an inventory of what our group is hording. If you have extra stuff others may need or can use. post it I'll move it here, alphabetically, and then delete your post so everything stays on one page. Or you can comment about this idea. Kinarfi

Idle problems - - - - http://www.utvboard.com/index.php?s=&s...post&p=4460 Another idle problem was solved by undoing the wire that was wrapped around the plug wire for an hour meter. http://www.utvboard.com/findpost-t1524-p5814.html Over heating problems, -- From Snowman -- One other problem is they will air lock. To get all the air out of the system you need to disconnect the small water line (about 1/4 inch) that starts around the thermostat housing and goes into a T with two larger hoses, drivers side. You need to remove the hose at the T and hold it in the air above the motor while holding your finger over the hose barb to keep the coolant in. Now you need to get some one to top off the rad. This sounds like your biggest problem to me. (http://www.utvboard.com/topic/1733-t2-issues/page__view__findpost__p__6993)

My Dad always said,"Ain't no sense worrying about it, ain't nothing gonna turn out alright anyway!" So I learned not to get too worried, and now, with having cheated death and being messed with lots of time to kill, I just don't worry too much about much of anything. BE HAPPY xcept money

Was that a Trooper diff or something else? I had a similar problem, so it looks familiar, but different, mostly the number of holes in the ring gears. Kinarfi

Also Say welcome to TahoeGuy, all helpful, friendly people are welcome here, Glad to see you here. Kinarfi

Myself, I don't play golf, but I have driven past that course several times and it is a beautiful place. If you travel north from there, you end up near Park City and Guardsman Pass, beautiful drive. Next time I get in that area, I'll have to at least drive by the dome. Flew past that area a few times but never noticed the dome, but did take photos of another mound that you can drive in circles to the top. Lots of scenery in this area, Maybe we could have the next Jamboree up here, that would be cool. Mostly scenery driving, but I you wanted to torture you rig, I'm sure there are places for it, like AF canyons Mineral Basin Road. 40 33 01 N 111 36 21 W Kinarfi