Kinarfi

I read through your posts and didn't see where you talked about a shut down problem, do you know which post it was or can you elaborate? Mine would drop out periodically for a while and I found it to be a problem with the wiring harness and how the O2 sensor wiring is secured near the radiator. It causes things to short out as you drive and bounce. It happened to me and also to Paiute3. Kinarfi

Here's what I did to space the radiator out, 2 1/4-20 nuts and 2 washer with a fender washer on the inside. I put the original screws back in their hole and rolled the fan to give me new metal to to drill through. Then seal it up with some pipe insulation foam or something similar and black tape. No heat problems for me. Also notice the plug for the O2 sensor that shorted out, blew a fuse and left me stranded, before I fixed it. If I ever get around to moving my radiator, I think I'll use the roll bar tubing for my water tubing and just weld fitting to the top and bottom for connections.(maybe) Kinarfi.

Been working on my rear diff and finally put it together, hopefully for the last time ever. I'm really pleased with the final assembly, the pinion play is very small, and the end play on axle shafts is very small also, I took the two snap rings off the pinion (.055 each) and replaced it with one (.094) from 6 States Distributor, who services big trucks and drive lines, which was about 50% thicker than stock which left room for some shims between the pinion head and the bearing, that's what tightened the pinion play up. Used Lenny's bolts to secure the ring gear, they worked nice, I put shims on each axle output shaft and made sure the screw holding the spider shaft was tight. Now all I need is to fill it with oil and install. After tearing the new one apart, I recommend anyone who has the aptitude do the same. On the one I have ready to install, I used the large side of the new case, the old half that has the locker on it, the old spider and ring and the new pinion and housing after shimming it. After much consideration, I have decided that the old housing with the missing little piece above the pinion bearing is still usable as is, the force on it is back toward the heavy metal area. Every thing else has been looked at and worked on and shimmed, so I should end up with an extra diff. We'll see after I do the front diff. Kinarfi

Sound about right actually, maybe disassembling the starter and making sure everything is free (brushes) should be on the to-do list.

I've had that happen to me, but never at home and I just kept trying the key and wiggling the key, I suspect it is something in the key switch, but I have had the solenoid click but not start also, again I just kept trying and eventually it worked and kept working for quite a while, it's been one of those problems that you can't fix until it becomes permanent. Kinarfi

If you take photos, please share, even if you don't keep them for your self. http://good-times.webshots.com/album/570105729YtrzQc

While mine's apart, I've looked at a lot things in it and when I seat the ring gear in place, and turn the pinion gear, I do have some play and I can hear it slapping as I turn it back and forth. I would look inside at my first chance. And as far as I'm concerned, that little screw I mentioned earlier has as much potential to cause damage as the weak bolts. kinarfi

Got a strain gauge attached to my steering shaft and did some testing, it actually works, it can sense the torque on the steering wheel needed just to take up play in the linkage turning side to side standing still with only one tire on the ground. I must say that I am impressed with these little devices, it's the first hands on for me. Still having a few problems with the electronics end though, If you know any really smart people that might want to help me, have them give me a PM or something. Thanks Kinarfi When you look at this thing, click on the full size tab and then the + , it's pretty impressive.

kandlinaz, Welcome to the forum, Nice looking rig, enjoy, please fill out the profile so we can get to know you better. Thanks and welcome, Kinarfi

I've been running around with my electric steering assist, when I wasn't broke down, and have been quite pleased with it. Lenny changed his steering over to an electric steering set up out of a Smart Car but didn't have a sensor system, so I've been working on one and I have decided to use a strain gauge on the steering shaft as the sensor to tell the motor which way to turn, how much power to use and added an inline resistor to sense end of travel or overload condition. I've got most the parts in and I have built the first prototype controller for Lenny's Trooper and thought maybe you'd like to see what it looks like so far. I'm hopeful to have it on Lenny's Trooper in July and we can get some reports from him as to if and how well it works. What you see in the pictures probably took about 15 hours over 3 day of actually putting it together and an awful lot more time designing and redesigning and drawing and testing. I sure hope this thing works good, I will be building one for my Trooper shortly. This is what a Strain Gauge looks like and is super glued to the bare metal in the steering linkage and senses how much torque is being applied to the steering wheel. Pretty wild stuff, but interesting, notice the dimensions. Kinarfi

Nope, just good with mechanical stuff, electrical stuff, electronic stuff, you know your basic all around genius type person with a very well rounded assortment of jobs and experiences. Kinarfi

1. ??? 2nd Ride, right rear CV joint came undone at the wheel 2. 252.9 U joint, replaced with another U joint drive line 3. 691.8 Drive line, replaced with CVs this time, LF Shock, Rear locker 4. ???? Had a hole in the rim caused by a rock wedged between rim and brake caliper. No fault of Joyner 5. 1540 Tube left rear tire\ 6. ~1600 Ball joint fell out. 7. 1702 CV joint again, Right rear shock ($149.03) 8. 1742 replaced dust boots on tie rod ends and ball joints, cracked 9. 1991 Fused blown ( by sensor wiring found later) 10. 2069 Fused blown, Found fuse was blown by O2 sensor wiring 11. 2437 Tube Right rear tire 12. 2836 New tires, General AT, 13. 3069 Right rear axle replaced by Joyner, finally after 3 time coming loose 14. 3357 Bolts in read differential failed. 15. 100,000 No more problems, yea, in my dreams

One of my concerns brought on by something Lenny said is that the threaded part of the bolt is also the support part like the shank. My feeling, developed from when I had my airplane, is that the shank should go all the way through with a washer and nut so the shearing forces are all taken by the shank and not the threads. I have been thinking of looking or longer bolts to make this happen for me, and since there is no warranty and no reason not to, I just may be doing some drilling myself, as you can see by this foto, there is room for a larger hole. The main disadvantage to switching to easily found, easily replaced American Standard Bolts is you may have to use 2 sets of wrenches, metric and standard, WAAAA It's too bad bolts are sold like AN hardware, for instance, A breakdown of a typical bolt AN number follows: AN4-8A * AN means the bolt is manufactured according to Air Force-Navy specs. * 4 identifies the diameter of the bolt shank in 1/16" increments * 8 identifies the length of the shank in 1/8" increments * A means the shank of the bolt is undrilled (no letter here means a drilled shank and the threaded part is always the same length. I think the two holes are from the stamping operator not getting the part out of the press and it got double stamped and never rejected. I think welding on a good thick washer and using longer American Standard Parts is a good way to go. That's my 2 cents worth. Kinarfi

Added a few more photos kind of like exploded views with some comments added into the photos of some things I did. Still need to do some photos of the spider set up and how they go together and sometimes, unfortunately, come apart because that little screw isn't tight enough and lock tited. Quit Preaching Kinarfi

Not really, but when I opened my new one and it had the same potential problems, I figure do and overdo what I can and hopefully, when I button it up this time, It will last as long as the one in my GMC Yukon. He did say to try and find what he called Jet Bolts, actually made for use in Jet engines which are super tough and have the heads whittled down to save weight, I've worked around some of the engines and know what he's talking about, just can't find them. That little screw felt like it had been tighten with a shirt pocket screw driver and maybe they didn't even hit the slot. I know it caused a fair share my damage. I do think what Lenny's coming up with will make things a lot tougher and durable. I can't recommend strongly enough to open your cases and check them out. a neat thing I did to get the cases to split is pump air in through vent pipe, pops it apart a good 1/4" or so. Kinarfi

Just looked at the parts manual and all four corners are on the same bearing, a 65*35*35 bearing. Have you downloaded a copy of the parts manual yet, quite helpful. Kinarfi

Hey Rocmoc, I'll give you a good deal and come do it for 1/2 that amount, I don't mean $222.22 , I'll take my front diff out and do all the work on it and then bring it and my new diff down and replace yours. Looks like I finally get to see for myself if the front and back diffs have the same gears, Pictures when I take them. Kinarfi

What has broken and when?

How many Kilometers do you have on your Trooper? What has broken or failed and when?

Sorry to hear it Mopartist, best of luck to you, tell the new owner about us. Kinarfi

Got my new differential and promptly disassembled it. Having done so, I recommend everyone open up their differential and make a few checks, Here's two things I think need doing, even if your not have trouble yet. 1. that little screw that holds the shaft in for the spider system in place, pull it clean it and the hole with brake cleaner, lock tite it and put it back in snug. 1st pict is the screw I'm talking about, 2nd the screw and the slot in the pin, 3rd the heads of both pins, notice the damage to the head of one pin , 4th, damage done by the pin as it was coming out, 5th undamaged new housing. 2. The bolts holding the ring gear on leave something to be desired in my book, I'm working with Lenny and we think we have a solution, get a 10.9 grade bolt and a nut for it, machine the nut down to fit the hole and that should do away with any play. Lenny can probably put together a kit for a nominal fee or if you know a machinist, .... That 6912Z bearing with the shields on, I took the shields off, cleaned it with gas, soap and water, sprayed some white lithium grease on it and it's good to go, any one know of a reason to have shields on a bearing in a differential, and why is the spider full of grease, I understand a little for assembly, but packed clear full?????? Any of you racers have any other suggestions while were inside these diffs? Thanks Kinarfi

Got mine tore apart and partially put back together, the only definite failed piece other than the bolts and bearing support was the shielded bearing 6912Z. It looks to me like the bolts should have been shoulder bolts, I would have mic'd them but I don't have an inside caliper. Check my photos. With some rebuilding of the housing and a new bearing, and I'll have a serviceable differential, could save if for spare, could sell it. Casey said to use a Jet Bolt, smaller head than normal, it's an 8mm X 1.0 thread with a 10 mm head, don't know the length, but one with the right size shoulder that went through both pieces minus a mm would be perfect and strong. I washed it all with gas and then washed the gas off with soap and water and blew dry all the parts and sprayed everything with white lithium grease to protect it. Also wadded up one of those spacers between the spider gear and the housing. Didn't know what it was at first, figured it out later because I only had 3 of them. Again, check out the photos and add to it. Kinarfi

Not sure when I broke the fender or how, probably navigating through the dead junipers out by Cherry Creek. Got home before I even noticed. Maybe it'll be fun to go look for it. Kinarfi

Sent email to Casey yesterday and got a call this morning, gave me pretty good deal on a new Diff, Thanks Casey. I'm kind of over a barrel of buy or don't ride, I bought it and it's on it's way , along with an unbroken fender, unlike mine. After it gets here, I plan to pull the front and check it out, especially if I drain it and the oil is silvery. I recommend the same for any diffs that make any noise, mine did when backing up, or if the oil is silvery. I'm trying to find some super tough bolts, according to Casey they're jet bolts, M8 with 10mm head, probably a fine thread, titanium or something really tough. If you know where to find them, please post. My Thanks to Casey, who seems to be trying to take good care of us and still take care of Team Joyner. kinarfi

Me too, but if it does, I hope they do as well with this issue as they did with the U-Joint problem. If they do have a problem, it would be sweet to let those who have the problem diffs know about it so the bolts can be replaced or what ever need doing can be done. Kinarfi