Kinarfi

I better do some CYA here. I got the design working, but waiting a few parts, like 12 vdc dpdt relays and IRF4905 FETs. If they get here early Fri, I'm, good If not, who knows, Kinarfi

Have you ever tried one of those mister things that work like a swamp cooler?

I like the looks! One thing I keep looking at on mine is that if I ever decide to move the radiator up higher, I would want to be able to use the frame tubing to move the antifreeze so I wouldn't need hoses. You may want to incorporate that idea into your modification. kinarfi

My trooper is ready, I'm pumped up, and now my trailer is almost all set up for converting from hauler to tent base. Looks pretty good and fits my needs. It's getting closer, and exciting. I plan on heading down Friday. Kinarfi

Lenny's just hyper, can't sit still, and is intrigued with changing stuff. Almost forgot, finicky, too. Does great work and great to work with. Kinarfi

I unpinned this topic, it was getting the use I intended, so it doesn't need to be pinned. Kinarfi

Come up to the Jamboree and check them out for your self. Love to meet you in person. Kinarfi

a simple explanation of that circuit is: split your 12 vdc into 3 parts, 4 4 and 4 stacked on top each other, the middle 4 has a wiper centered a 2 which makes 6 to the bottom and the wiper can be adjusted up or down from 4 to 8. that's your input. It moves a stable ramp that goes from 3 to 6 and as you move the wiper, the ramp moves down to 1 to 4 or up to 6 to 9 depending on which way you move the wiper. Notice the 4 - 6 dead zone. If the motor starts left at 2, as you bring the ramp down to 1.9 - 4.9 it only goes under 2 for a moment or as you bring the ramp down to 1 - 4 it goes under 2 for a longer period, driving left harder. Turning the other way does the same going right. Now stack your 12 volt 3 1 and 8, it can be made to work with almost any amount of resistance, so if you have a meter, measure the resistance as you turn your wheel back and forth if you can. kinarfi Minor re write for clarification, maybe.

4/115 is the bolt pattern, but don't know the other stuff. kinarfi

I do believe your correct Rocmoc, I'll go edit Lennys post, Thanks Kinarfi. Here's some direction from DeLorme maps & me get off I-15 at mile post 93 & head for Logandale, Go straight (SSE) on SR 12 (SR 169) 5.72 mi Turn right (W) on to Liston 0.21 mi Keep right (W) on to Liston Ave straight (NNW) on to Mills 0.16 mi Go straight (NNW) on to N Pioneer 0.73 mi Turn left (WSW) on to <unnamed> 1.50 mi Finish DeLorme says: "Starting where you get off at mile post 93" Turn Time Turn Dist Turn Road Exit Finish Time Finish Dist Total Time Total Dist 00:00:00 Start at SR 12 00:21:37 10.77 mi 00:00:00 0.00 mi 00:09:40 Go straight (SSE) on SR 12 (SR 169) 00:21:37 10.77 mi 00:00:00 0.00 mi in 00:09:40 5.72 mi Turn right (W) on to Liston 00:11:57 5.05 mi 00:09:40 5.72 mi in 00:00:29 0.21 mi Keep right (W) on to Liston Ave 00:11:28 4.84 mi 00:10:09 5.93 mi in 00:00:13 0.10 mi Go straight (NNW) on to Mills 00:11:15 4.75 mi 00:10:22 6.02 mi in 00:00:23 0.16 mi Go straight (NNW) on to N Pioneer 00:10:52 4.59 mi 00:10:45 6.19 mi in 00:02:05 0.87 mi Keep right (SSE) on N Pioneer 00:08:47 3.71 mi 00:12:50 7.06 mi in 00:01:20 0.56 mi Go straight (SSE) on to Mills 00:07:27 3.15 mi 00:14:10 7.62 mi in 00:00:23 0.16 mi Go straight (E) on to Liston Ave 00:07:04 2.99 mi 00:14:33 7.78 mi in 00:00:13 0.10 mi Keep left (N) on to Liston 00:06:51 2.89 mi 00:14:46 7.88 mi in 00:00:58 0.41 mi Keep right (W) on to Liston Ave 00:05:53 2.48 mi 00:15:44 8.29 mi in 00:00:13 0.10 mi Turn right (NNW) on to Mills 00:05:40 2.38 mi 00:15:57 8.39 mi in 00:00:23 0.16 mi Go straight (NNW) on to N Pioneer 00:05:17 2.22 mi 00:16:20 8.55 mi in 00:01:43 0.73 mi Turn left (WSW) on to <unnamed> 00:03:34 1.50 mi 00:18:03 9.28 mi in 00:03:34 1.50 mi Finish at Finish 00:00:00 0.00 mi 00:21:37 10.77 mi And that's a quote, don't ask me to explain Kinarfi

My feelings on a rope are they they are great when used properly. On a winch, you give up a lot in stretched rope and don't think it would really work that well. If your pulling someone out of the mud, they're great, take 50 ft. rope, tie it to both rigs with lots of slack and take off as fast as you can go. When you hit the end, the rope starts stretching and building energy until it stops you and gives you a hell of lot of pull that you don't get with a cable or chain, they just go clunk and jolt you real bad. I've pulled a full sized truck loaded to the gills with drums full of fuel out of a snow bank when he was down over the bank with a 100 foot 1" nylon rope on a snowy road this way with an empty short bed GMC 4X4. I tied onto his tow hooks and dropped a loop over my trailer ball, told him to get in and put in gear and get thing turning and then punched it down road as fast as I could go. I felt the rope start stretching and slowing me down and was starting to spin my wheels on the snow when he came up over the edge like he was tied to Caterpillar. He was impressed. A friend tells a similar story about a Dodge with cab over buried to the axles in sand that two other rigs with chains couldn't move. He did it with nylon rope and speed. How ever, you DON'T use any metal, if a shackle broke at max stretch. it goes right through differential covers, and human flesh much softer. and don't go over a sharp edge, it will cut the rope. My 2 bits worth. Kinarfi

I got my left rear axle replaced and I'm so very happy with Joyner & Apex Motorsport! The only way they could have done better was to come to my house to fix it and bring the drinks. Steve, the owner, took it for a ride and really liked my tires, he said he was trying to come to the Jamboree and get Joyner there too. Any way, NOW I'm ready to go, for the most part. Kinarfi

That looks good Chris, however, If it's that cold out side, my Trooper and I are going to be inside Kinarfi

And Please, go fill out the profile so we know where your at, you probably have lots to add here too, and if we know where your from, maybe you'll get and invite to go for a ride. Kinarfi

I don't know what kit your looking at but my do it yourself works great and costs less than $30.00. GO TO http://www.utvboard.com/Parts-Pieces-Infor...2.html#entry475, it's the 5th item from the top. I definitely recommend and believe in it whether you have a stock or upgraded air filter, It gets it up out of the dust into clean air. As far as extending anything else, I didn't. If I was going to worry about other things, I would worry about the alternator getting filled with muck and the fan getting stopped by the muck, then I'd worry about the vent tubes. Kinarfi

Did some more playing with my Power steering, I put a .1 ohm resistor in line with the motor and measured the voltage across it. It indicated about 17 amp draw when turning, 1.7 volts, standing still in the garage and 2.3 volt stalled, end of travel. I then wired a 3 volt flash light bulb in parallel with the resistor and mounted it where I could see it easily as an indicator of how much power the motor was pulling. The interesting and unexpected thing I saw was that if I turn the steering will hard, there is no light or very little light, indicating the power is coming from me and not the battery. It seems like that if I had geared it down a lot more to where I turned the wheel faster than the motor, the motor would actually resist me. Another thing I'm wanting to see is if the light bulb lights when I'm not giving the wheel any input and the motor is stabilizing the steering, that is acting as a shorted generator. Another thing I did was put two switches in the system to activate the steering with out using the wheel, haven't tried it yet but looking forward to it as soon as I get my rear axle replaced, tomorrow, imagine driving without using the steering wheel , If it works, I'll replace the switches with a joy stick, Pictures when I get around to it. I'm also looking at that circuit Gumball suggested and Lenny bought. It's looks like a good circuit similar to some I've used in the past and working out how to use it with a relay so I can keep the motor shorting feature which is what makes it stable. But be careful Lenny, the specs say it's only good for 10 amps, as built. Lenny, if you have measured any of the outputs from your steering units in ohms, let me know what they are, and this circuit can easily be adapted to what I have. Kinarfi

TWO WEEKS TO GO, ARE YOU READY? By the way, did you realize Mother's Day is May 10?

Don't mind at all, and I welcome suggestions of items to add. Always trying help and get help. Same for the other members here, that's what makes this such a great site. Thanks, Kinarfi

Gumball, do you think that air filter should be added to the parts list?

Talking to Linda, going to try to go to both if we can. How about you Lenny?

Googled McCoy Motorsports and dug up King Shocks $2,559.31 http://www.tobefast.com/king-1100-trooper-...r-10000175.html

Fuses, another neat fuse is the ones that have a light in them, when they blow, the light comes on and you know which one is gone. http://news.thomasnet.com/fullstory/467478

And Proud too.

Thanks, I believe my problem was there from the get go and after talking to Joyner and my dealer, they have agreed to replace it under warranty, thank you Joyner and Apex Motor Sport, should be here early next week, but I will do the check you suggested. Kinarfi

I doubt the wire goes to the panel, maybe to the relay box which is controlled by the computer. Open up http://www.utvboard.com/post-a88-.html and save your self a copy, it's an electrical wiring diagram. For your oil, I suggest http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=210, take a look at Parts, Pieces, and Information for our Troopers, usually the 3rd topic under troopers and you should change the oil in your differentials also. At least open the fill plug and dip the oil to see what it looks like. Mine was silvery the first time I did mine. one bottle does both diffs. It probably wasn't your fault that the dirty oil got spilled, it was one of those garage gremlins that hide tools, move parts and pushes things of your bench all the time. Kinarfi