Kinarfi

Thanks and may I suggest General Grabber AT2, I think mine are great.

I was having so much fun out at the dunes that I forgot to mention that my left rear CV joint came out of the wheel, again, #3! We got it back in and I proceeded to have fun. I took it apart today and cleaned it up and found a most interesting thing, I'm missing one of the balls that go in it. HOW does that happen.

which springs? front or rear or both?

It was great, I could drop over any hill out there and didn't have any regrets for it as I came to the bottom and the woops were no problem, I'm really very happy with the way it's handling now. The tires worked good in the sand and on roads.

This is working good for me and it doesn't look too bad or cost too much. I would like to see so pictures of your drive line, any idea of what caused it to break? Kinarfi

My electric power assist worked well also, it resists bump steers so well that you can almost drive hands off and my shoulders didn't hurt like they usually do after the ride. I covered the chain with some sheets of foam to keep the sand out and put some fins on the motor to help shed heat. Because I used relays to short the terminal of the motor when not energized, steering is very stable and because Lenny & I stiffened the the spring in the steering shaft, the amount of force needed to turn my steering wheel is a little more than usual. I'm still very very happy with this design with only a few things to tweak. Kinarfi

Just got back from a trip to Little Sahara sand dunes. I have front rims all around and General Grabber AT2 27x8.50 R14 tires on them. They performed great!!!!!! I also went on trails and roads and I was very happy with them. I was running 10 psi front, 11 psi rear. I had just backed the front shock springs off to where there is only about a 1/4" of thread left showing. Out in the sand, I found that I could go just about anywhere with no trouble. These were a lot better than the stock tires, but they would probably out do me in the mud, but I hate mud. While out there, I talked to a tire dealer and his comment about my tires was they are as close to BF Goodrichs as they can be without them being sued, and BF Goodrich is the most popular tire for the race truck crowd.

I'm leaking on one of my rear shocks, does anyone have a good one they want to let go of, cheap? Thanks Kinarfi

This one is interesting and as the article states, the FETs are good for 47 amp and I know that this motor can pull 20 or more if stalled. I already downloaded the .PDF so I can study it more. Thanks Gumball. Kinarfi

VIDEO http://entertainment.webshots.com/video/30...104110397QxDIyG There just enough play between the upper and lower steering shafts, as shown by the video, so that the center/upper rod touches one of the other two lower shaft rods and turns on a relay to drive the motor which drive the lower shaft until it moves the lower rod away from the upper, thus stopping the motor.

Just spent 2 days with Lenny working on my electric power steering assist and was very impressed with the way Lenny does things. We got my motor/gearbox mounted and connected and powered and did some testing. SWEET SWEET SWEET Depending about on your personal preferences, it only needs a little tweaking, and that is mostly electrical. If you're really finicky, It only needs a little tweaking. I took a bunch of photos during assembly and will take more of the finished version. Again, Thank you Lenny for the help and for being a wonderful host, and Jeane too. First of a Series, added more. Put some protective covers to keep dirt off the chain and off the contacts, waiting to see if anyone spots my mistake. Drive report: When turning the wheel slowly, it bumps the contact and the motor turns and it comes off contact and stops, then as you continue to turn, it bumps the contact again, motor turns again and comes off contact again. etc. etc. so it turns with a bunch bumps when turning slow, tolerable, but something you'd have understand and get used too, when turning fast, you can definitely tell that it's working, and working good! As you drive down the road and hit the various bumps, the steering wheel stay pretty much where you left it. It doesn't bump steer, and you can turn the wheel when in 4 wheel and locker are in with ease. I'm looking forward to trying it out on a washed out hill we have locally that requires 4 wheel and lockers to see if I have to hang on to the wheel as hard as before. After a test ride with Lenny, the motor was hot and I'm a little concerned about that, need to put some cooling fins on it and maybe cooling fan. We didn't get the end of travel stop switches on yet so when you turn hard, you have be careful not the hold it hard against the stops. So far, I think we have a good kit in the works. Kinarfi

Wish I could grant your wish! If you have a GPS and can save your tracks, please do and I would like to get copies of them. Email or what ever. See you at the Jamboree. kinarfi

Flatbed, according to Virtual Earth, it's only 405 miles for you, that's only 50 more than I have. Hope you find the time. If you want, I can email the directions to you. Kinarfi Distances piaute 3 --- 080.4 mi lenny ------ 092.3 mi kinarfi ----- 345.7 mi detbohica - 377.6 mi flatbed ---- 405.1 mi latch73 ---- 487.2 mi rocmoc ---- 512.6 mi

A few interesting developments, Offroad Magazine asked for information, Team Joyner USA have said they are coming, a few different dealers have said they were coming. If everyone who says they plan to come does, we are up to 8 Troopers. Exciting

Now I gotta go defog my screen black trail is very difficult, use caution, right? or is a trail at night with no moon and your lights don't work, both need caution! . AND your welcome Kinarfi

If you think you have a water problem, you may want to put a water separator/gascolator in the line. They're somewhat pricy if you can find them, but I have or you can build one cheap. Use plumbing fittings, brass, galvanized, not plastic, buy a tee, 3 hose fittings, reducing bushings as needed, a nipple to collect the water, a bell reducer for the bottom end of the nipple to receive a hose fitting, clear hose, valve. When you see gas in the tube, drain until gone. If you haven't moved your fuel pump, stick this in the line to the pump.

Sent him a PM earlier and an email today, Waiting.

I just talked to Jim Burns at Joyner about coming to our Jamboree and he sounded very positive. Also sent invitations to several Magazines.

I'm planning on bringing some 8 foot aspen logs and a saw. And before someone beats me to it, I'll also bring my Trooper to drive since logs don't drive very well and have lousy ground clearance I'm excited! Kinarfi

Looking good, anyone have any local information about, entry fees, camping areas, lodging, water, fire restrictions, anything helpful, suggestions. Who's volunteering to get this organized, Lenny?

OK, works for me, Kinarfi 2

Here's how I did the stock set up, Get max travel determined by CV starting to bind and back off until free on each side. Set toe in using the tie rod adjustment, recheck travel and as Lenny pointed out. the diff center line is rearward of the front axle center line, so check CV bind when that wheel is turned out, left side turning left, rt side turning rt. And the stop on the right stops the left and Vice Versa.

Took some more photos and movies, the drive unit, as I shall call it from now on, can be mounted easily and almost any where above the front diff and below the frame work bars above the diff. The steering sensor need to be up near the fire wall to get enough room to be long enough, this can be done with a tube over the upper part of the steering shaft that is attached to the lower shaft. Check out the pictures and watch the movies. http://entertainment.webshots.com/video/30...t=entertainment The movies show the play built into the steering shaft setup and it is that play that can be used to trigger the power unit.

When I had My airplane, which had lexan for it's windshield, I used Pledge lemon or orange on it and it worked great. http://good-times.webshots.com/album/567633206kVCwdm

the hook up to the steering MUST be below the over lapping part of the steering shaft. The actuating switches are at the overlap and I envision something like a 6" rubber or plastic ball around the switching set up to protect it. Here's how I see this working, Use the Play between the inner and outer shaft to get our motion sensing by mounting back to back L bracket to the flats, the lower L bracket has an actuator pin on it and the upper L bracket has the switches mounted on it and are actuated by the actuator pin on the lower bracket. The wires from the switches travel up the shaft just short of the U joint and then wrapped around the shaft several times so as the wheel is turned, the wire unwinds or winds up a little more, I saw this on the wiring of an air bag on my boy's Ford. As you turn the wheel, you actuate one or the other switch on the upper shaft, which activates a relay, which powers the motor, which drives the lower lower shaft until it catches up with the upper shaft and deactivates the switch. What I have learned about the motor/gearbox and how it works: It is built so a L bracket will provide the counter torque, that L bracket needs to be connected to the lower steering shaft, bearinged, and the frame. The output will bolt up nicely to a 4 spoked 4"(aprox.) sprocket and needs a shaft to rotate on of about .434"(that's what was used) and another L bracket to stabilize, this bracket also goes from steering shaft to frame and matches the first L bracket. It looks like the driven/steering sprocket will be most easily attached to the lower part of the steering shaft for room and accessibility and can be mounted to the shaft by using two L brackets clamped with bolts on each side and attached to the sprocket with weld or bolts. As far as RPM, review this video, notice the black mark, I don't remember what I started out at, 7 or so I think to get 1 RPSec, then turned the voltage up to 13 as the black handle moves. http://entertainment.webshots.com/video/30...t=entertainment we got plenty of speed so we can adjust the voltage to get what we want. kinarfi