Alien10

I'm thinking of buying a snow blade for my Coleman Outfitter 550 (Hisun with Coleman stickers). Has anyone purchased a snow blade that can offer the make and model they bought and any comments, pros cons etc.? Not 100% sure I'm going to buy, as the selection of blades for this model seems a bit thin on line. Thoughts and comments welcomed. Thanks in advance.

Do the front and back tires have different sizes imprinted on them? I've heard of a couple stories where new UTVs have been sold with different tires/rims on front and back. Even one guy who claimed he had 3 of the same size and one of another size on a new purchase. Can't vouch for his truthfulness but who knows in today's assembly plant environment.

Another poor policy thing is having employees pay for their business expenses on their personal credit cards then take 6 weeks to get the expense approved and paid back to the employee. I used to do that, including business airline tickets until I finally said I wouldn't go unless the Co provided the tickets up front. A year later we all got Co credit cards.

Michigan's Government enacted "cage free eggs" law effective 1/1/25; We bake a lot and buy the 60 large egg packs at Walmart. 10 days ago, the 60 egg packs were $11 each. Today, they are $26 each. Most of the egg shelves were empty. Only a handful of stock in there. The cashier even said she didn't know if she'd keep baking like this. We won't be baking much anymore if the cost for eggs is up 136% over a 10 day period!! Might start having to drive the back roads looking for farm stands selling eggs.

Welcome to the site. Consider testing and diagnosis before throwing parts at it. Doing that only compounds the problem and often masks what is actually wrong with it. Rember the basics of ICEs. Spark, Compression and Fuel. Test for spark and compression. Then try firing it up with a dribble of gas into the cylinder to see if it will run for a second or two. If it does, you've narrowed the problem down to fuel delivery. I've read that some of these earlier models particularly Hisuns were shipped without in line fuel filters. Their fuel injectors are sensitive to poor or dirty fuel so they quit or won't let it run much at if at all. Good luck Doctor, hope you diagnose the disease and that whatever it is, its an easy and cheap cure.

Yep, that was it. There is so little range of movement on the E-brake lever that this adjustment has to be "just so" in order for it to brake properly but not drag when released. Some kind of lever operated internal cam squeezes the caliper but very little range of movement. Thanks for that heads up..

Not the same, but I bought a tandem axle trailer at an auction a couple of years ago. No title, just the auctioneer's bill of sale, and the consignment form signed by the former owner. Now, how to get this registered and a plate issued? I went to the Secretary of State's office and got the info needed. Had to get an official weigh slip for it and present that with my sale documents. They explained that they would issue a vehicle ID number or VIN for the trailer. That will be permanent. The registration and plate were issued thereafter as normal. Now, one thing I don't know is if your title or paperwork says non road vehicle, what exactly your state requires to update that to road legal. I know if you apply to have a salvage vehicle title changed to a regular title, the State Police must inspect the vehicle and all repairs made to return it to non salvage condition. Best to go on line or make a trip to your DMV with questions. States love to produce pamphlets and rule books.

You could try this guy who posted in 2023 about having parts available. There seem to have been several members of UTV Board who got replies. If you are out of options you might try emailing him and see what happens. Good luck.

I'm no expert, and live in Michigan. I think various states have their own laws, but most require standard UTV equipment plus emergency brake, horns, signals head lights and tail lights including running, brake and turn signals, and seat belts. There are sites to help by state. Here is just one of them. https://www.dirtlegal.com/street-legal-utv-guide

Your machine may be different. My Hisun 550 has this diagram of the transmission plug showing proper oil level at the bottom of the plug hole when machine is level. I believe my Hisun's wet clutch shares the engine oil so it is important that I use that wet clutch compatible oil in the engine. That's my understanding of it. These manuals are not much help.

I don't have an Axis machine so am working from just general knowledge. Follow your shifter cable to where it attaches to the "transmission". In that case, there should be a drain plug and a fill plug. That will ID the trans case. It is also home of the drive shaft exit that attaches to the forward drive shaft yoke. I've found that most of these imported machines have manufacturer manuals that are almost useless in many respects. However, I do know that most utilize a "wet clutch" system similar to motorcycles. Those require a specific type of lube oil designed for wet clutch use. I believe JASO MA2 is the latest spec these oils meet in order to be wet clutch compatible. Others here may have better info on this. If the drained oil is like the milkshake oil you showed, then you've ID'd the trans case. You will also need to research what amount of oil it takes and how to verify it is full. Some just fill until the upper plug hole drips oil. Do a little research to see what your machine requires.

Not long here myself, and don't have a Kioti anything, but welcome to the site! And a hearty Thank You!

Water or coolant has turned the oil into an emulsion. It looks like tiny water droplets are in there too. You should drain all this from the trans and find out where the water or coolant is coming from. What does the engine oil look like? Is is clean and clear?

This is the E Brake, the one that is on the center drive shaft rotor below the dump bed. It is NOT related to any of the wheel disc brakes. A few months after purchasing my Coleman Outfitter 550 (Hisun) new, the E brake stopped working. Thought it had got water or oil on it as it gradually went from good holding to poor holding to literally NO holding. Been lazy using a piece of 4x4 to keep from rolling, but that's a pain. So, into the barn I went with work light to see what the heck is wrong. E brake pedal worked, but hit a hard stop and felt like the cable was froze up from rust but that was not the case. As it turns out the E brake is actuated by some kind of weird actuator lever/cam arrangement based upon the actuator lever being moved about 15 degrees from its fully released position. That makes the adjustment pretty critical with such little movement. Bolt "C" in the pic below is the adjustment bolt, held in place by lock nut "B". Working from below, here is what I did. Removed the skid plate below the E brake. 6 bolts and washers. Next, looked at the brake pads which still had a good amount of pad left on them. Looked to be a little less than 1/8" each. Verified that the cable from the E brake pedal "A" actuated the E brake arm "D". Cable "A" pulls and released lever "D" in the direction of the curved arrow. Applied E brake and checked the actuator arm, it was all the way up with no bare cable "A" showing. Released E brake and checked the actuator arm, it was all the way down with bare cable "A" showing as in the pic below. That spring pulls the lever to fully released position. Note: I disconnected the release spring from at the lever with needle nosed pliers to make working with the adjustment easier to do without that pressure on the lever. With E brake released, loosened lock nut "B" and backed it off the lever about 1/8" or so. Tightened adjustment bolt "C" by hand just until it stopped. Retightened lock nut "B". E brake now holds securely on my hillside driveway, and releases completely. Reinstalled skid plate. Hope this might be of some help to someone as none of this is in the owner's manual or in diagrams. up. Released brake and rechecked the actuator arm, it was all the way down.

Congrats!!!!

Man, whenever leaving a job, NEVER drop off any equipment you are accountable for without getting a signed receipt for it before it leaves your possession. Keep it until someone in authority is available and can sign for it in good condition, and give you a written receipt!! I've had to fire people in my career who had company equipment and this was always a first order of business. A written check list of equipment, its condition and both me and the ex signed with copies distributed BEFORE they left. Also if you are a new hire the same thing goes. Full written equipment and condition documents. If you are taking over any company accounts, those too have to be documented as to amounts and condtions. Don't mean to be a downer here, but protect yourself especially if the management is falling apart as you have described. Good luck!!

Greg, no disrespect intended for sure. Exactly how do you think I figured out how the compression tester's valve works? The first one I had was used and with no instructions. Thought it was broken. Went to put it away and hit that little brass button hidden under the neck of the gauge, and "PSSST ..." the gauge returned to zero!🤔 Don't be so hard on yourself, you're doing just fine!. We've all been there and worse,.....in my case, a LOT worse. Plenty of scars and a couple bits of missing flesh to show for it. Guess I should be thankful to have survived 7 decades! Wouldn't trade any of it including those most embarrassing moments for a million bucks. You're doing better than most, keep at it, success awaits only those who keep on keepin' on.

I might be misinterpreting the compression test results you've posted. Wouldn't be the first thing I've screwed up this morning! But, most if not all compression testers have a one way valve. That is to record the highest compression pressures it sees during the test. It will leave the gauge at that highest level, even it there is no compression left in the engine's cylinder after it stops cranking, until the release valve is pushed to release it back to zero. I'm thinking that your 130 and 125 pressure readings, after being left for 15 to 20 minutes are just the pressure captured and retained by the gauge and hose? Reason is I've never seen an engine cylinder that will retain 125 lbs of compression more than a dozen seconds as those peak pressures bleed down fairly rapidly through the rings. Those are by no means anywhere near a perfect seal. Your last results would seem to show a bubble was left in the system that you have now released. Great detective work! Maybe its time to just run the machine as you normally would paying attention to the temperature, coolant level and its appearance, and of course importantly, the oil level and its appearance. If you have a head gasket issue, it will soon show up in the coolant or oil being compromised.

Merry Christmas to you too. Be confident, you can get this thing back in service. Best of luck.

TYPO: "...despite claims of 20 years in business the site was set up first week of November 2014." It was set up November 2024

Maybe all are aware of auction and equipment sales scams. On another forum, I've done some research on scam auction sites for big ag equipment and have noticed that it has spread to autos and smaller stuff in the past year or two. One was very sophisticated, including stolen IDs of known persons giving rave reviews of the auction site many going back several years to lend credence to the fake site. The site was in fact less that one month old. The business address was a storage facility with no signage with a couple being just high rise office buildings. The three I've looked into have used this three initials plus "auction.com" format or similar. "XXXauction.com". Ran across a new one 2 weeks ago in Craigslist. Had some nice cars and trucks at auction, but visiting their auction site, the all too familiar red flags were all there and despite claims of 20 years in business the site was set up first week of November 2014. First big clue and giant red flag is the prices shown. Usually 40% of what the equipment is worth, maybe less. Red Flags: Prices are exceptionally low. Absurd delivery fees ie; 60 cents per mile, or $500 flat fee, anywhere in the US. Moped or Army tank, all the same. Some buttons on site do not work. Auction closes shortly. Terms of payment always requires a wire transfer, no checks, no credit cards, only wire transfers. (Once a wire transfer is sent, there is no recourse, you can't get it back or get a refund). You get invoiced with remittance bank account numbers to wire your money to. Photos are stolen from legitimate sellers or auctions. Often past sales and past auctions. Inability for you or your rep to inspect the machine. Try calling and arranging an inspection, they won't do it for dozens of reasons. These scammers award "winning bid" to literally everyone who submits a bid. They send an invoice with remittance directions. Once you wire them money you even get a receipt. Then comes days of emails back and forth to set up the so called "shipment" of your equipment. Of course that will fizzle out in a few days. By then your money is long gone offshore and you will not get it back or get anything for it. Just think of how lucrative this scam is. Lets say a high end UTV all decked out shows on an auction closing tomorrow. Nationally, they get 67 bidders all of whom get their "winning bidder invoices" and pay by wire transfer. Lets say average of $14,000 per bidder. That's $938,000 on one fake auction UTV that no one will ever get. Do this in 10 auctions in a week, do the math!!! I've seen agricultural combines sold this way for around $89,000 to $100,000, How many winning bidders...no one knows. But multiply that by 50 or 60 winning bidders. Get the point? Don't fall for this stuff, it is created, dies out, then gets recreated every 30 days or so. Don't become a victim.

You could try to pressurize the combustion chamber with compressed air while at or near TDC (so valves are closed) to see if your bubbles still appear at the coolant filler neck. Try to keep the coolant tank opening as high as you can get it. By the way, you said the compression pressure went from 120 lbs to 105 lbs over 15 minutes. Rings are not great at holding pressures for that long. In fact my initial impression is that losing only 15lbs of pressure over 15 minutes is pretty remarkable. Wonder if you repeated that compression test if you'd see bubbles in the coolant. Ah, maybe you're right, and the head gasket needs to be replaced. Just trying to save you some heartbreak if that isn't the issue. In any case, good luck, and please if you resolve this issue, let the forum know. That's how we all learn.

A little pressure in the radiator after sitting a few days would seem to preclude a head gasket failure between the combustion chamber and the coolant jackets. Pressure would push coolant into the cylinder or if failed between oil and coolant, into the crank case. Also when running, a head gasket blown into the cooling system will certainly provide pressure into the cooling system and exiting at the open radiator fill. There is a tester that will analyze the coolant to see if combustion products are contaminating it. Not sure if you can borrow one of these from a local auto parts store or not. There used to be a radiator air pump that you'd use in place of the radiator cap. Pump up pressure in the cooling system and watch the pressure gauge to see if it holds or bleeds off. In your video, the bubbles are somewhat consistent in volume over the course of the video with the engine idling. What happens if you raise the RPMs while watching the coolant in the radiator? Do the bubbles increase in volume as you would expect if it is coming from a head gasket leak into the cooling system. This is more of a guess on what you've found so far, but maybe there is still a big air bubble somewhere in the cooling system that is slowly percolating up as the pump is pumping the coolant.

Couple of other thoughts... A head gasket can fail to the oil passages, to the coolant system, or to the outside air. Are you getting excessive crank case blow by? Is there any external compression leakage? Are you getting combustion gases in the coolant system? Cap off coolant system shouldn't be expelling gases or pressure. Has the coolant level dropped or increased? Does the coolant appear to be contaminated in any way? (Oily, brownish tinge etc.) Just a few things that came to mind. Good luck.

Compression test clarification question. Did you get 120lbs that then bled down to 105 in 15 minutes of sitting? Or did you do a second test 15 minutes later and only got 105lbs. Remember, rings and pistons are not complete seals, they all naturally leak. Max compression is only required to be present during the power stroke, and for a fraction of a second. If there's no coolant in the oil, what else has convinced you of a failed head gasket? You might consider additional testing before tearing into the engine.