Alien10

My Hisun 550 (Coleman Outfitter stickers) does much better running in low gear. I can get up to about 30mph without going deaf from engine noise and even that is 10mph more than I'd use around my property. Like Randy said, and I agree, you'll have better full engagement in low and likely less wear as well. I seldom use High anymore.

Welcome to the site!! And a huge thank you for your service!! That is a beautiful machine! From the pics it hardly looks used! Congrats and enjoy it!!

Well yesterday I went and ordered a KFI 60" blade and mount for my Hisun 550 with the Coleman Outfitter stickers. Now that winter is just winding down, maybe I can get one more push out of it if it arrives in the next week. Thought I'd try to save my JD Garden Tractor for fall leaf clean ups which it is great at.

I seldom have a reason to go over 20 to 25 mph but I think it is capable if I wanted to. I think the 550 tops out around 40 to 45 in high, but I haven't really tried that. Most of my property is on hillsides so I only use low range, it has plenty of speed for the 1/8 mile trip down our dirt road to my barn. It does get a little loud even at 20-25 mph, but not alarmingly so. Its just the engine revs. It should be smooth. Can you tell if this is exhaust noise or is it noise from something internal to the engine or trans. Maybe remove the dump bed and have a buddy listen out the back window to see if he can spot where that alarming noise is coming from. Also note at which RPMs the noise increases more that you'd expect for the given RPMs. Do you have any other issues with engine, like hard starting, or backfiring? Or how about transmission or belt slippage? Also is it the same loudness when in high range? Be sure engine and trans mounts are all secure. Check to be sure nothing on the body is touching the engine and maybe magnifying the noise at higher RPMs.

I have a 550 and the gear shifter is a stiff, often difficult thing to use. There is a trick to getting it into low without it popping out of gear when you give it gas. My "LOW" is all the up on the shift knob. I saw a Hisun dealer video that said to keep upward pressure on the shifter with your hand as you slowly give it gas to move forward. There will be an almost imperceptible "click" when it starts to move. Mine does this 7 or 8 times out of 10 and as long as it does that last tiny click, it won't pop out of gear. I operate on some very steep inclines so I have to be sure the low range IS engaged. I think the check engine lamp is also the oil pressure monitor but I could be wrong. I always wait the few seconds until the check engine lamp goes out to shift into gear and move. My 550 does exactly the same on start up. I found that if you turn the key on, and wait a couple of seconds for the fuel pump to get up to pressure and stop before cranking to start, it usually will not try to die out when it does start, or lessens that. Sort of guessing that the injector may be slightly starved for fuel while the pump gets up to pressure. Once there, no problem. Lastly, these like premium gas. They will run on 87 octane but prefer higher. Also look to be sure your machine has an in line fuel filter. Some were shipped without them causing early injector failure. Those don't like any dirt at all.

Welcome to the site H Loc. Could you elaborate on the engine and tranny issues a little? Slipping, grinding etc???

Warmed up relatively speaking here in mid Michigan. 16 F this morning, and with the increased temps comes the almost constant light snow. A little over 3 inches overnight with light snow continuing unabated. Will plow again mid morning, and likely again late afternoon. Not a big job but has to be done on a hillside drive facing NE. Otherwise it just becomes a sheet of packed ice.

That's a great photo, thanks for posting it. KFI seems to be one of the few suppliers of plows fitting the Hisun line of UTVs. Your 750 looks to utilize the same frame/body as my 550. Now I just have to get over the cost thing.

Once it gets a little below zero F, the snow lightens up. More of just frozen humidity hanging in the air like a frozen fog. At 1120 hours my local temp is way up, its now 5 F with a good NNW breeze. Looking to warm into the mid 20s by week's end.

My Hisun 550 with Coleman Outfitter stickers, is a Vietnamese based machine. At least that is what the tag on the frame says. I understand these machines are partly assembled in Texas, likely with Chinese engines and transmissions, and maybe with the Vietnamese frames. It is a fairly crude machine. Don't expect quiet ride or easy maneuvering. Steering can be a chore in rough areas but serves the purpose. Its a serviceable worker, but hard to explain. The feel is like what you get from a compact tractor, functional but a bit rough around the edges. Mine has run OK for almost 100 hours with only a few minor items going wrong, all fixed by me. E Brake is awful, very stiff and has limited adjustment and stiff shifting. You need to keep an eye on it as it can start to slip on hillsides. Parts availability seems a bit sparse as are the details of the 550's technical manual. Overall, it has run and started OK even in this week's zero degrees F and wind. Mine is used mainly for property maintenance and hauling fire wood out of the woods to the barn for processing/splitting and other maintenance chores. Nice to have a winch, roof, windshield, and a pick up style tail gate with dumping bed. I do not go trail riding with it. I use care in operating it in the woods after downed trees for firewood, and not much open road work. 25 to 30 MPH is plenty on our country dirt road. I've carried a full load of logs up a very steep hill in 4 WD and it handled it just fine. Access to engine is not great without removing seats panels and skid plates. Even the bed came off for better access to the Ebrake unit. Oil changes require a lot of rags, and brake kleen to clean up after. Seems to have adequate power in LOW, and even plenty of speed in LOW for work I do. Not a luxury machine for sure. Cost was a factor for me but it does what I ask of it so far.

I'm thinking of buying a snow blade for my Coleman Outfitter 550 (Hisun with Coleman stickers). Has anyone purchased a snow blade that can offer the make and model they bought and any comments, pros cons etc.? Not 100% sure I'm going to buy, as the selection of blades for this model seems a bit thin on line. Thoughts and comments welcomed. Thanks in advance.

Do the front and back tires have different sizes imprinted on them? I've heard of a couple stories where new UTVs have been sold with different tires/rims on front and back. Even one guy who claimed he had 3 of the same size and one of another size on a new purchase. Can't vouch for his truthfulness but who knows in today's assembly plant environment.

Another poor policy thing is having employees pay for their business expenses on their personal credit cards then take 6 weeks to get the expense approved and paid back to the employee. I used to do that, including business airline tickets until I finally said I wouldn't go unless the Co provided the tickets up front. A year later we all got Co credit cards.

Michigan's Government enacted "cage free eggs" law effective 1/1/25; We bake a lot and buy the 60 large egg packs at Walmart. 10 days ago, the 60 egg packs were $11 each. Today, they are $26 each. Most of the egg shelves were empty. Only a handful of stock in there. The cashier even said she didn't know if she'd keep baking like this. We won't be baking much anymore if the cost for eggs is up 136% over a 10 day period!! Might start having to drive the back roads looking for farm stands selling eggs.

Welcome to the site. Consider testing and diagnosis before throwing parts at it. Doing that only compounds the problem and often masks what is actually wrong with it. Rember the basics of ICEs. Spark, Compression and Fuel. Test for spark and compression. Then try firing it up with a dribble of gas into the cylinder to see if it will run for a second or two. If it does, you've narrowed the problem down to fuel delivery. I've read that some of these earlier models particularly Hisuns were shipped without in line fuel filters. Their fuel injectors are sensitive to poor or dirty fuel so they quit or won't let it run much at if at all. Good luck Doctor, hope you diagnose the disease and that whatever it is, its an easy and cheap cure.

Yep, that was it. There is so little range of movement on the E-brake lever that this adjustment has to be "just so" in order for it to brake properly but not drag when released. Some kind of lever operated internal cam squeezes the caliper but very little range of movement. Thanks for that heads up..

Not the same, but I bought a tandem axle trailer at an auction a couple of years ago. No title, just the auctioneer's bill of sale, and the consignment form signed by the former owner. Now, how to get this registered and a plate issued? I went to the Secretary of State's office and got the info needed. Had to get an official weigh slip for it and present that with my sale documents. They explained that they would issue a vehicle ID number or VIN for the trailer. That will be permanent. The registration and plate were issued thereafter as normal. Now, one thing I don't know is if your title or paperwork says non road vehicle, what exactly your state requires to update that to road legal. I know if you apply to have a salvage vehicle title changed to a regular title, the State Police must inspect the vehicle and all repairs made to return it to non salvage condition. Best to go on line or make a trip to your DMV with questions. States love to produce pamphlets and rule books.

You could try this guy who posted in 2023 about having parts available. There seem to have been several members of UTV Board who got replies. If you are out of options you might try emailing him and see what happens. Good luck.

I'm no expert, and live in Michigan. I think various states have their own laws, but most require standard UTV equipment plus emergency brake, horns, signals head lights and tail lights including running, brake and turn signals, and seat belts. There are sites to help by state. Here is just one of them. https://www.dirtlegal.com/street-legal-utv-guide

Your machine may be different. My Hisun 550 has this diagram of the transmission plug showing proper oil level at the bottom of the plug hole when machine is level. I believe my Hisun's wet clutch shares the engine oil so it is important that I use that wet clutch compatible oil in the engine. That's my understanding of it. These manuals are not much help.

I don't have an Axis machine so am working from just general knowledge. Follow your shifter cable to where it attaches to the "transmission". In that case, there should be a drain plug and a fill plug. That will ID the trans case. It is also home of the drive shaft exit that attaches to the forward drive shaft yoke. I've found that most of these imported machines have manufacturer manuals that are almost useless in many respects. However, I do know that most utilize a "wet clutch" system similar to motorcycles. Those require a specific type of lube oil designed for wet clutch use. I believe JASO MA2 is the latest spec these oils meet in order to be wet clutch compatible. Others here may have better info on this. If the drained oil is like the milkshake oil you showed, then you've ID'd the trans case. You will also need to research what amount of oil it takes and how to verify it is full. Some just fill until the upper plug hole drips oil. Do a little research to see what your machine requires.

Not long here myself, and don't have a Kioti anything, but welcome to the site! And a hearty Thank You!

Water or coolant has turned the oil into an emulsion. It looks like tiny water droplets are in there too. You should drain all this from the trans and find out where the water or coolant is coming from. What does the engine oil look like? Is is clean and clear?

This is the E Brake, the one that is on the center drive shaft rotor below the dump bed. It is NOT related to any of the wheel disc brakes. A few months after purchasing my Coleman Outfitter 550 (Hisun) new, the E brake stopped working. Thought it had got water or oil on it as it gradually went from good holding to poor holding to literally NO holding. Been lazy using a piece of 4x4 to keep from rolling, but that's a pain. So, into the barn I went with work light to see what the heck is wrong. E brake pedal worked, but hit a hard stop and felt like the cable was froze up from rust but that was not the case. As it turns out the E brake is actuated by some kind of weird actuator lever/cam arrangement based upon the actuator lever being moved about 15 degrees from its fully released position. That makes the adjustment pretty critical with such little movement. Bolt "C" in the pic below is the adjustment bolt, held in place by lock nut "B". Working from below, here is what I did. Removed the skid plate below the E brake. 6 bolts and washers. Next, looked at the brake pads which still had a good amount of pad left on them. Looked to be a little less than 1/8" each. Verified that the cable from the E brake pedal "A" actuated the E brake arm "D". Cable "A" pulls and released lever "D" in the direction of the curved arrow. Applied E brake and checked the actuator arm, it was all the way up with no bare cable "A" showing. Released E brake and checked the actuator arm, it was all the way down with bare cable "A" showing as in the pic below. That spring pulls the lever to fully released position. Note: I disconnected the release spring from at the lever with needle nosed pliers to make working with the adjustment easier to do without that pressure on the lever. With E brake released, loosened lock nut "B" and backed it off the lever about 1/8" or so. Tightened adjustment bolt "C" by hand just until it stopped. Retightened lock nut "B". E brake now holds securely on my hillside driveway, and releases completely. Reinstalled skid plate. Hope this might be of some help to someone as none of this is in the owner's manual or in diagrams. up. Released brake and rechecked the actuator arm, it was all the way down.

Congrats!!!!