Alien10

Still if you are getting the rough running and sputtering, look into the condition of the fuel injector. They are prone to problems. In any case good luck, hope that oil remains in good shape.

Ah yes I see. Good advice for OP too.

Me too, low is plenty of speed on the dirt road I live on and the higher revs lets the engine breath deeply without excessive RPM on those short trips. It also has plenty of power for the 35 degree, 200 foot long incline up to my barn loaded with cut logs. One other thing I do is keep hand pressure on the shifter as I press the gas to get that final "click" into low. Happens about 75% of the time and it is an almost imperceptible click, but it is there. I don't get any popping out of gear either. Thanks for the comment on your experience so far.

Do I understand from post #15 that the exhaust is dark? Hmmm. That along with sputtering and rough running might suggest a bad injector just dumping fuel into the cylinder instead of the fine spray it is supposed to provide. Hisun injectors are said to be of fairly poor quality with early failure rates. You can see how it functions by testing its spray pattern on a white paper towel. Stream is no good, but a fine mist is OK.

Of course, it has to be more complicated, its the Government.

I use my Hisun 550 (with the Coleman stickers), for general work around my 10 acres of hilly land. Hauling firewood, some dirt and mulch, and debris clean up. Also felling dead standing trees in the woods and hauling rounds out to the barn for splitting/stacking. Here's my question: Those who use their UTVs with towed drag implements or snow plows, have you noticed any issues with early clutch slippage or failures? Or premature belt wear? Other drive line issues?? Thanks in advance for any experienced thoughts and comments.

Sounds like the contractor who assembles for your local Lowes had several to do at the same time. If it was a recent purchase, talk to Lowes and inform them that you have a mis matched tire and need it replaced.

Disclaimer: I am a hopeless tinkerer. Depending on whether the regs specify that the E brake be a separate brake from the regular brakes, what if..... (here goes).... You fashion a bracket under the dash near the brake pedal's mounting arm. Some kind of a ratcheted lever that you could engage with the brake pedal's arm to hold the brake pedal down locking up the brakes. Then a release latch to let it go. Maybe something as simple as a notched arm bolted to the floor that pivots over to hook onto the brake pedal's arm and keep it down and the brakes engaged. ?? Like I said, I am a hopeless tinkerer. 😉

Maybe you got lucky. I'd check it every start up and every shut down. The OEM oil in my Hisun 550 (with Coleman stickers) was a tan color that alarmed me, but when changed it didn't separate and there wasn't any sheen present either. I sort of wonder if they use whatever they have hanging around upon assembly and just ship it with garbage oil in it. Who knows. Good luck hope it stays in good shape. You'll know before long.

One other thought. No telling what was put into the crank case or what may have leaked into it before you got it. Any evidence this machine was in a flood or run in water above recommended depth? Its a low mileage machine on its second owner. Did you buy from a private owner or a deaaler? Can you see if the old oil will settle anything out of it? Give it some days and see if it starts to separate. You can help it by warming it up in a jar then letting it sit for a few days. These are more just guesses on my part.

No loss in coolant but high crank case lube levels? Wonder where the extra crank case volume came from? Maybe try refilling with correct oil to correct level and run it a bit to see if the contamination reappears. Don't forget, if you have a wet clutch system, most UTVs do, to buy engine oil compatible with wet clutch operation. Good luck.

You might check the coolant level and its condition as well.

First test all fuses in the fuse box to be sure they are good. Use a tester or simple 12v bulb & wire. Then run a spark test to be sure you are actually getting spark at the plugs. It is my understanding from others that these Hisun injectors are very finicky about any dirt or gum in them. Some of the Hisun based models came from the factory without an in line fuel filter and had starting and running issues resolved only by installing a filer and replacement of the injector. Sitting for a long time would be my prime suspect in that the fuel if any in the injectors may gel or dry up leaving them inoperative. Since the machine has been sitting maybe the best thing to do is replace the injectors regardless. But that's your call.

Are they getting any "fire" signal from the ECM box on their wires? Can you bench test them? Siting for years lets fuel turn to varnish and can wreak havoc on injectors. Just a thought.

You will need to locate and fix the source of the oil leak or you will be going through belts quickly. Sorry you are having an issue like this at 300 hours.

By the way, Welcome to the site!!

My Hisun 550 (with the Coleman stickers) has a problematic gear shifter. No release button, but if often will seem to jam especially in moving to reverse. Even when it does work, it is nothing you could describe as smooth. When it is very stubborn and just won't drop into reverse, I really jam the brake pedal down hard then move to reverse. It seems to work about 90% of the time. This makes no sense to me but who's to argue when it works most of the time. These are hastily engineered machines with mediocre quality parts and fitment. It may wear in after a while but if it is impossible, get your dealer to adjust it before too long.

Unless you own or have regular access to wide open country, those "rockets" are a waste of money. Like many, if you need a machine to do work around the property, speed is your last concern. So Scott is spot on. I too have an off shore UTV, a Hisun 550 (Coleman Outfitter stickered). About 90 hours of hauling firewood, pulling down dead trees, fetching rounds out of the forested hillsides and hauling dirt, mulch and cut tree limbs and bush in the bed. It's a little on the "crude" side as far as operation and engine, but so far has been "OK". I operate in low range 100% and it is plenty of speed. Only thing so far is that the E-brake has failed. I think the caliper is froze up as there is plenty of pad left. Just haven't gotten into it yet. Overall, its just OK, not excellent. You might consider upping the budget as suggested by Joe B, and get a bit more quality build. However a lot of features are options on the big name brands. Personally, I'm not excited about buying used. Just too much unknowns there on this type of equipment. Just a few opinions here. Good luck in your search and purchase.

THis might not be related. I have a 550 UTV and I use primarily the low forward gear. This means the shifter must be pushed fully upward. I noticed that there is a very slight "click" and a final movement if I hold the shifter all the way up as I begin to move the UTV. As if it is not quite fully engaged without that last extra push as I give it a little gas. I also found that some UTV dealer (Hisun/Coleman dealer) had a video pointing out this very same thing. Like I said, may not be the problem you have. Good luck.

Unless you know the former owner, there is no telling what kind of life it had in its 300 hours. Maybe you have already gone over the machine but check for signs of rough use. Do zerks and joints appear to have been maintained, brake pads, hidden areas packed with mud? I know its a UTV but there may be signs of it being "abused" as opposed to just being "used". Sorry you are having such issues.

This is just a wild guess.. If you are certain the ignition system is OK and performing consistently, I'd suspect something in the fuel had gotten into the injector and caused the run issues. I've read where some Hisuns were produced and sold without an in-line fuel filter ahead of the injector, and that these injectors are very sensitive to unclean fuel, acting up with odd running symptoms, or no starts. Could be yours just managed to digest whatever was in there and now has returned to normal. You might just order a standby injector in case the issue returns. Congrats on getting back on the road!

Hey, congrats on the repair!

Looking at the pics, I think the 500 and 550 beds are the same. My 550 has I think 6 attachment screws/bolts to hold that side panel in place. Pop Bob has described their locations. Mine has two in the upper side panel, see pic below (stolen from Pop Bob) to hold the panel to the black top cap and rail piece. These are hex cap bolts. You can see in his pic that the side panel's tabs fit behind the top cap and those cap screws pull the side panel up tight to the inside of the top cap. Otherwise, on my side panel there are two phillips heads at the front of the side panel, one at the rear upper side panel, and one on the bottom of the side panel toward the rear. I flexed the bottom edge of my side panel where it wraps under the bed and the mud guard moved a bit with it. So the mud guard screws don't appear to be holding anything except holding the mud guard itself to the side panel. No need to remove those as Pop Bob said.

Pop Bob, Great pics! thanks for posting them along with the text comments. It is super helpful to know that those are the fasteners to remove the side panel and get at the latch bolts and I'd guess the tail light also. Thanks!!!

If you do try to start removing panels, I'd recommend that the first step would be to take a pick and completely clean out those phillips screw heads so they don't strip out, and use a big enough phillips bit to fully engage the screw head. (Don't ask why I make this recommendation).