MauyThai1

The axles came on my machine, I just up graded so I have four I beleive.

I run a turbo with 30" mud tires on my T2, top speed is around 55 which I seldom get to. I still have plenty of power in deep snow or mud which is where most of my riding is. I replaced the rad with a much larger four core one which keeps the heat down.

I have an turboed 09 trooper with all the up grades, extra parts, full cab,with heater and to many add on to list. 6500.00

2scoops, I have several axles with good ball cages if your still needing one.

I have a 2009 Joyner T2 for sale. 1100 cc Turbo charged motor with five speed transmission. full cab with heater, up graded steering box, new himes joints, 2 inch lift with up graded shocks and travel limit straps, up graded induction system, remote oil filter station with two large filter which hold and extra gallon of oil, up graded rear diff, mud flares, up graded axels, up graded wheel bearings, extra set of 27 in tires, extra up graded diff as well as original shocks and axels. 12 inch wheel travel with 17 inches ground clearance. 6000 miles on unit. comes with 14 ft trailer with 3500 lb axel. 8500.00 This has been a great machine which I use for hunting only, never raced or hill climbed. This machine has never been off it's wheels as in never been rolled or abused. You can contact me on this site or call 970-986-0268 as well as e-mail me at bugler [email protected]. I can send pictures if your interested.

Sorry I'M so late in replying, I got the pressure gauge and regulator you recommended as well as a new rad from summit. The rad is 27 inches wide and 15 1/8 tall so with some very minor fab work it dropped right in. The rad uses two 14 inch fans. Thanks to your info and the new rad my T2 stays cool now.

Im in that area a lot, I could locate him and settle this if you send me his info.. I can't stand thief's.

Silver bullet will your cams work with a turbo set up, I may also be interested in your over bore pistons.

Clankford could you give me the info on your fuel pressure reg and what spark plug wires you used. my t2 has never run correctly with the turbo, it wants to over heat and the engine kicks into limp mode at full throttle in 4,5th gears.I have changed most of the sensors but with out the computer scanner no one can figure out the issue. Thanks Robert.

Clankford I have a complete diff minus the side case which the hex bolts go through. Had the bearing go out in that side of the case. The diff has been up graded and loctited. If your interested let me know. I also have four stock shocks and three cv axels if anyone needs them.

Kinarfi, give me a call if you can, I have a few questions. Thanks

Finally able to work on the diff. Took it apart and found the up grade wasn't done. It appears when I sent the old diff in they installed the same soft bolts which were in it. The shop here sent the diff to a Joyner dealer in AZ don't know which one. I have limited experience with this so any help would be great on how to get the diff apart and fix it. I have the side case off and found the bolts on that side sheared, no damage so far.

Nocturnalsizer What rad did you get I would like to get one as well as two fans if possible. Tinman I have never had the rad boil over but I have had the temp light come on. Not sure the cfm on the current fan but I think its around 2500.

The shop here had to send the diff to AZ for the up grade so I don't know about the shims. I don't really know what shimming is. I was told by the shop in AZ when I got my up graded diff back it would be "bullet proof".

Tinman, I had the same problem with the boots so I replaced them also. I change the diff oil every fall as well as a complete service because the winter is when I use it most. Nocturnalsixer I had the diff up graded after it went out the first time, as far being shimmed I don't know if that is part of the up grade. I have added a larger fan with higher cfm. I sealed the fan shroud to ensure all air was being drawn through the rad. I took the rad off and flushed the coolant system to eliminate any blockage. I am looking for a larger rad but haven't found one as of now. I want to thank you guys for you time and help.

I had the diff go out about a year ago and found it hadn't been up graded like I was told so I had that done. I was told it wouldn't have any more issues 800.00 later. It is the T2 gearing, No oil running out any where and no gear noise at all.

I had the rear diff go out, three CV joints, I have a constant over heating issue if I run it 40 mph or over for a length of time, i had the throttle cable come apart from the inside, and now another issue with the rear diff and I don't race it or run the dunes I just hunt and trail ride.

4800 miles on my T2. I have made a lot of changes, full cab with jeep like windows in the doors, new induction for the Turbo which has two large air filters, added a remote oil filter unit which has two large filters which require a gallon more oil, mud flaps, limit straps, diff up grade, tapered wheel bears. I really like the concept and layout of the machine but I am very tired of this thing always breaking down.

Can anyone tell me what happened to my diff. I had it rebuilt with the up grades about two years ago. I was riding in a tight spot in 1st gear in two wheel drive crawling over a few logs about ten inches around when I heard a ping like sound and then found I had no rear wheel drive. I could see the in put shaft from the trans to the diff turning but no rear wheels. I was able to get out in front wheel drive. This is the third time I have had to limp it back with just the front wheels. Im starting to look at other UTV'S as this thing is always breaking down. I have about 5000 easy miles on my T2 as I use it for hunting and trail riding. Help.

I didn't have this problem until I tried Mobil One synthetic. Now if my T2 temp gets above 195 my oil light will flicker at idle. I put a remote oil filter on which has two large oil filters. It added an extra gallon of oil to the engine, now the oil stays cooler and so has helped the low oil pressuer issue alot.