Pop Bob

What do you think all the black stuff was? Insufficient air filtration? Or was it maybe fuel related? Pop Bob

Welcome to the forum. Very nice looking rig. Where do you hunt? Pop Bob

Yes, there was some interference with the dump release lever. Bot there is enough flexibility to just deform the panel a little and it comes right out. From your picture I’d say 3 or 4 mm longer will work and not introduce any clearance issues with the tailgate. Nice job. I should have checked the tightness on my bolts while I had it apart. As an aside, I had to rethread 2 more of the screws because they were run in cross threaded with an impact driver. 😖 Pop Bob

The two holes you’re talking about are secured by frame clips which are attached to the tabs on the side panel. They slip behind the black upper portion. So the head of the screw tightens against the black upper portion and pulls the tab against the inside of the top lip. The nuts for the fender lip showed evidence of having spun when they were tightened. They did not use washers so the nuts had dug partially through the molding causing it be about half of its original thickness. So once you get it apart check for that and reassemble with proper hardware if necessary. I keep finding fasteners that are loose or cross threaded. One good thing though, after I got it apart and saw how it was constructed, I was able to fish the wiring harness on the other side and not take it apart. I did a lot of wiring (and pre wiring for future additions) but that can be for another thread. Pop Bob

They were all secured. I made a false start by trying to remove the mud guard molding. When I removed the first screw I heard the nut drop down into the assembly. I knew then something was up. When I looked more closely at the moulding, I could see two bosses that were obviously secured from the inside so I knew I had to try a different way. It was actually way easier than I expected. Good luck! Pop Bob

Don’t know if your dump bed is assembled like mine(HS 500) but here is what I found today while wiring some whips. There are 3 screws in the bed, two on the front, two on the bottom rear, and three along the side. The wheel molding is not removed from the side. I’ll try to send some pics. Pop Bob

If you have a wet clutch make sure the oil meets jaso spec. Many do. It will be written on container. I know Rotella T6 does

I was reading through an old thread about the woes of the risky ownership of Hisun UTVs. Well, OK. So we all own some problematic machines. But I’ll say this. I’ve owned bicycles, automobiles, snowmobiles, PWCs, boats motorcycles, class 8 trucks, airplanes and a crapload of heavy equipment. Nothing I’ve owned and operated hasn’t broken or needed maintenance. The difference between all those prior items and my Hisun, I feel, is the support (or lack of)from the factory and dealership. That’s where this and other forums come in. We’re all we have! Well, us and YouTube. Oddly enough though, with help I’ve received from YouTube and you guys,I’m actually starting to enjoy crawling through this machine, and screw the factory/dealer. I’ll make this vehicle what they didn’t. And have fun doing it.

what model do you have, and where was the relay located? Pop Bob

Motojoe. Please explain Pop Bob

well, he said it needed 12v. Not that it was a ground. Pop Bob

Guys, I think you’re sniffing up the wrong tree with the seat belt limiter. My Vector 500 does this intermittently. While you can start it and keep it running with a little throttle, it will drive fine at any speed as long as you don’t let it idle. If the limiter was working it would not drive. I can’t tell you what it is,yet, but I don’t think it’s that. Mine always resolves itself over a couple stop/start cycles. I’m purchasing a code reader. I’ll let you know if I find anything. Pop Bob

Ok. I read up on it. Yes, Joe Breaux, I’m surprised it isn’t built with one also. Any vehicle with this type of transmission with no direct full time connection to the wheels should have one. And I would venture to say every type should have one regardless of transmission type- on or off road. Here’s a glitch. On vehicles where the drive shaft has a brake, if you have an open differential, you technically do not have two wheels braked. Hmmm. Pop Bob

Take the old one to rebuilder Pop Bob

I guess I’m not familiar with the requirement Pop Bob

Ok- here’s a thought. I’ve run into similar situations on outboards. They run when the enrichment loop is active at startup and quit when it kicks out. Backfiring through intake can also be from lean mixture. Put a spark checker on and as the engine dies see if you continue to have spark as it winds down. Now it could also be timing, but if it runs rather normally at idle till it quits I would be less likely to think so. But for the heck of it check the crank position sensor. Good luck. Keep us posted. Pop Bob

Check both diffs. It’s an easy start to begin ruling things out. Do you hear it in neutral? Did you have anything locked in? Does your machine have an open rear diff? When you said you can only move slowly was it that you were rpm limited or that something was slipping?

I guess I’m thinking along the same line as Motojoe. Does the oil light precede the shutdown, occur with shutdown or come on after the engine quits. In view of all the components you’ve replaced, I’d be looking hard at sensors. The more of these kind of problems I hear about, I think I’m going to invest in a code reader. Hope you saved all your old stuff for possible future use or sale. Pop Bob

There are tons of parts on Amazon and eBay. Other than a proprietary part (such as some makes have hoods that open, some have doors) the basic mechanical parts crossover widely for different iterations. Such as Massimo, Bennche, Axis, Coleman, Cub Cadet, Vector etc. Sometimes Yamaha rhino parts work. It’s sometimes a crapshoot but doable. Check out some YT channels, they often leave links in the descriptions. Wish I had a better answer for you. Good luck Pop Bob

go back to the basics. check compression, check spark, remove injector and crank to see if fuel sprays. Sprays!, not drips or squirts like an old man. I already suspect a plugged up injector. If so, you can try to clean it up, but they're not expensive. I would recommend also adding an inline filter. Good luck. Keep us posted Pop Bob

Yeah, I agree with you. Unfortunately my state mandates helmet usage while on state trail system- Sooo. I'll post info as I come by it

What is a decent( not great) helmet for SxS trail riding? Pop Bob

ok. Made some progress with this machine, but keep finding more stuff that needs attention. The connectors have been identified. The two in the front are turn signals. Why there are extras I do not know. The one in the rear is for tail/running lights. So, good to know, now I can seal them up and tuck 'em away. Now to the front upper a-arms. After I removed them, drilled them, and installed the grease fittings, when I greased them there was a leak in the middle of each one. So it appears that there was supposed to be a zerk in each one but they never got installed. the holes got painted over and were not visible because I inspected both of them before I drilled. No big deal, I'll seal the holes and call it good enough. I just happened to check for play in the front hubs and there is 1/16th to 1/8th at 12 and 6 on the wheel. Need to research what is normal, but it seems like too much to me. This just keeps getting funner and funner. PB

Bleed and refill fluid. Take one caliper off at a time. Mark level in brake fluid reservoir, compress caliper and check fluid level. Should rise a little. Make sure you use the proper fluid for your vehicle. Use only what is specified. Master cylinder failure is rare but does happen. Your Massimo is a Hisun. Look on Amazon. Tons of stuff there. Also, make sure you lube your caliper pins and your pads to prevent squealing. There is a special lube for it, but I have used never seize as well. E-brake is pretty similar to the service brakes, just cable operated. You change the pads in a similar fashion. Check online for how you adjust it if you don’t have a manual Pop Bob

Yes there is an idle adjustment, but it might be something else. Is there a fuel filter which may be plugged? If not, I’d recommend installing one. Is your machine carbureted or injected? If it runs well at high speed or high load but dies when you try to idle, then go ahead and adjust the idle screw 1/4 turn in and try it. If 2 tries doesn’t fix it, it’s probably a plugged orifice. Any backfiring? Pop Bob