Pop Bob

👍 Good job!

I haven’t a clue what you said. Please repost and be clear and give some info. ( make, model, year, events leading to problem. ) PB

Could it have jumped valve or ignition timing? Do a compression test. You said it was spraying fuel. It doesn’t take a lot of fuel to make it idle

Wow. That totally sucks. What would cause the chain to jump time? How many hours on it? What did the compression test show? P B

Well I’ll be dogged. I saw this post the other day and thought “I think I’ve seen this on my 500 vector before.” So today I turned the key on and watched as the system booted up and sure enough- it does display 700-7. I guess it doesn’t matter. Seems to work okay. Mystery solved Pop Bob

I thank you PB

Look at this weeks email of trending topics. The vast majority are all posts for temu ads. Yes, it is getting annoying. We don’t have this problem on the diesel f150 forum, nor on Toyota Nation. Pop Bob

I agree with you about the master cylinder. The biggest thing for me, though, is ‘why is the fluid getting dirty so quickly’? I’m wondering if the system was contaminated from the beginning and just wore out the seals in the master cylinder. Make sure to collapse all your calipers, and then flush the heck out of the system and hope your calipers survive if there was contamination. Good luck. Keep us posted. Pop Bob

What do you think all the black stuff was? Insufficient air filtration? Or was it maybe fuel related? Pop Bob

Welcome to the forum. Very nice looking rig. Where do you hunt? Pop Bob

Yes, there was some interference with the dump release lever. Bot there is enough flexibility to just deform the panel a little and it comes right out. From your picture I’d say 3 or 4 mm longer will work and not introduce any clearance issues with the tailgate. Nice job. I should have checked the tightness on my bolts while I had it apart. As an aside, I had to rethread 2 more of the screws because they were run in cross threaded with an impact driver. 😖 Pop Bob

The two holes you’re talking about are secured by frame clips which are attached to the tabs on the side panel. They slip behind the black upper portion. So the head of the screw tightens against the black upper portion and pulls the tab against the inside of the top lip. The nuts for the fender lip showed evidence of having spun when they were tightened. They did not use washers so the nuts had dug partially through the molding causing it be about half of its original thickness. So once you get it apart check for that and reassemble with proper hardware if necessary. I keep finding fasteners that are loose or cross threaded. One good thing though, after I got it apart and saw how it was constructed, I was able to fish the wiring harness on the other side and not take it apart. I did a lot of wiring (and pre wiring for future additions) but that can be for another thread. Pop Bob

They were all secured. I made a false start by trying to remove the mud guard molding. When I removed the first screw I heard the nut drop down into the assembly. I knew then something was up. When I looked more closely at the moulding, I could see two bosses that were obviously secured from the inside so I knew I had to try a different way. It was actually way easier than I expected. Good luck! Pop Bob

Don’t know if your dump bed is assembled like mine(HS 500) but here is what I found today while wiring some whips. There are 3 screws in the bed, two on the front, two on the bottom rear, and three along the side. The wheel molding is not removed from the side. I’ll try to send some pics. Pop Bob

If you have a wet clutch make sure the oil meets jaso spec. Many do. It will be written on container. I know Rotella T6 does

I was reading through an old thread about the woes of the risky ownership of Hisun UTVs. Well, OK. So we all own some problematic machines. But I’ll say this. I’ve owned bicycles, automobiles, snowmobiles, PWCs, boats motorcycles, class 8 trucks, airplanes and a crapload of heavy equipment. Nothing I’ve owned and operated hasn’t broken or needed maintenance. The difference between all those prior items and my Hisun, I feel, is the support (or lack of)from the factory and dealership. That’s where this and other forums come in. We’re all we have! Well, us and YouTube. Oddly enough though, with help I’ve received from YouTube and you guys,I’m actually starting to enjoy crawling through this machine, and screw the factory/dealer. I’ll make this vehicle what they didn’t. And have fun doing it.

what model do you have, and where was the relay located? Pop Bob

Motojoe. Please explain Pop Bob

well, he said it needed 12v. Not that it was a ground. Pop Bob

Guys, I think you’re sniffing up the wrong tree with the seat belt limiter. My Vector 500 does this intermittently. While you can start it and keep it running with a little throttle, it will drive fine at any speed as long as you don’t let it idle. If the limiter was working it would not drive. I can’t tell you what it is,yet, but I don’t think it’s that. Mine always resolves itself over a couple stop/start cycles. I’m purchasing a code reader. I’ll let you know if I find anything. Pop Bob

Ok. I read up on it. Yes, Joe Breaux, I’m surprised it isn’t built with one also. Any vehicle with this type of transmission with no direct full time connection to the wheels should have one. And I would venture to say every type should have one regardless of transmission type- on or off road. Here’s a glitch. On vehicles where the drive shaft has a brake, if you have an open differential, you technically do not have two wheels braked. Hmmm. Pop Bob

Take the old one to rebuilder Pop Bob

I guess I’m not familiar with the requirement Pop Bob

Ok- here’s a thought. I’ve run into similar situations on outboards. They run when the enrichment loop is active at startup and quit when it kicks out. Backfiring through intake can also be from lean mixture. Put a spark checker on and as the engine dies see if you continue to have spark as it winds down. Now it could also be timing, but if it runs rather normally at idle till it quits I would be less likely to think so. But for the heck of it check the crank position sensor. Good luck. Keep us posted. Pop Bob

Check both diffs. It’s an easy start to begin ruling things out. Do you hear it in neutral? Did you have anything locked in? Does your machine have an open rear diff? When you said you can only move slowly was it that you were rpm limited or that something was slipping?