whobbies

Just back to let you guys know that our Stereo Consoles for the Polaris RZR's have become a hot item. We are now manufacturing them in 1/8" ABS plastic with raised grain black finish. They can be purchased with or without radio and speakers, and we are offering many options for radios, and or speakers. We have a perfect sales record on ebay where you can read all of the consumer purchases since we brought the unit to market. I have heard many times that they can not believe the sound and design of a completed unit for as much as 1/2 the price of other units on the market. We are working closely with both a radio and speaker manufacture and are able to install a 200 watt fully digital media AM/ FM stereo head to a set of true dual coaxial poly coned 80 watt speakers, a great combination that sound great! The complete system sells for under $300.00. It will fit, Polaris RZR's - 570, 800, and 900 dual set units. You can visit our site at: www.utvatvstuff.com or call toll free in the USA at- 800 444-1995 for more information or to place an order. Each complete radio system will receive one of our coolest innovations, called "The Radio Condom" a $20.00 value.

I have not seen one yet, is the roll cage exact as the 800 or 900's?

We have a website up and running where you can see and get more information on our Performance Radio Systems for RZR 800 - 900 2-seaters. Please go to: www.utvatvstuff.com The new ABS systems are selling very well and come complete with a matched radio/speaker package that sounds great! The units fit perfect up into the factory stock roll bars and does not interfere with your head room. You can find them on ebay or purchase them direct from us for- $279.95 + 24.00 shipping. We have geared up for the holiday season, but we will probably sell-out prior to Christmas, so act fast if you want one under the tree. The new rear speaker pod is designed to fit up into the roll cage above your head at the rear of the cage. Two 6.5" marine grade speakers are installed to offer a (4) speaker system if using our Console, or it can be used for your own personal radio installation. These will be available 11/30/12 and sell for- $129.95 with speakers, or $79.95 without speakers. Free Radio-Condom Water-Proof radio cover included with each purchase from this forum. For more information you can call us toll free at: 800 444-1995 M-F 9:30 - 5:30 Est.

Hello, We are a 30 year old American manufacturing company with our primary interests in the Toy and Hobby industry. Last year we entered the UTV market manufacturing a overhead stereo sound system for RZR 800's and 900's. We are now in full production selling direct to the end user at great prices. If you would like some infomation email us at: [email protected] and we will provider you the details. Doesn't matter what kind of roof you have or if you have one at all, the unit is designed to suspend from (6) mount points and tucks neatly inside the rool cage. All mounting hardware is included from base Do-It-Yourself models to Fully loaded Systems. The quality is fantastic and they are made and assembled in the USA. Prices between - $99.00 - $349.95 Thank you, Tony C.

Hello, We are a 30 year old American manufacturing company with our primary interests in the Toy and Hobby industry. Last year we entered the UTV market manufacturing a overhead stereo sound system for RZR 800's and 900's. We are now in full production selling direct to the end user at great prices. If you would like some infomation email us at: [email protected] and we will provider you the details. Doesn't matter what kind of roof you have or if you have one at all, the unit is designed to suspend from (6) mount points and tucks neatly inside the rool cage. All mounting hardware is included from base Do-It-Yourself models to Fully loaded Systems. The quality is fantastic and they are made and assembled in the USA. Prices between - $99.00 - $349.95 Thank you, Tony C.

I have a 1600 Joyner engine with very low hours that I will sell very cheap. Give me a call at 863 699-1812 M-F 9:00 - 5:30 Est. Ask for Tony I will sell the engine for -$500.00 + shipping

As long as the bearing does not "rock" I would try it if you have to like I described. You just have to be careful not to get the Lock Tight inside the bearing. I usually smear it inside the hub and also on the bearing outer race. Make sure the hub is cleaned with acetone and also the outer bearing. To get them out I have to use a torch to melt the Lock Tight. I find that the GREEN "permanent" is the best to use. Let it cure over night. I repaired the head on one of our 5 HP Milling machines like this over 5 years ago, and that machine is run hard daily with quite a bit of side-loads. I do like the idea of a Timkin type bearing like automotive over the ball bearings, and I think I'm going to check out how the one you mentioned was done. I drilled and installed Zerks in my new ball joints yesterday and hope that will help their life. They are kind of crappy as far as quality, not smooth at all like most automotive types. I did find a way to us VW (1968) tie rod ends over the Joyner one's though. Make a sleeve with the taper I.D. to accept the VW end and insert the assembly into the existing hole on the hub arm. There is just enough threads to get a good hold using a nylon lock nut. You do have to cut the tie rod and weld in a threaded bung for the VW end, but the results are far better than the stock one's. No slop at all.

The bearing has to spin in order to damage the hub, that's what is causing the problem, and yes the casting is not nearly as hard as the bearing race so it will be the wear point. If you have a new hub go ahead and use the lock tight smeared on the inside of the hub when seating the bearing. It will help prevent the bearing from turning. I can't tell you how many bearing hubs I have re-used over the years whether it be for motorcycle or machine use. The machine press from the manufacturer was probably not enough to begin with, could of been for many reasons including easier for the assemblers to push the bearings in without using a press, who knows? I've been to many a factory in Asia and I've seen some strange goings on over there. Heat treating is tough to do at home and doesn't work very well, and not a great idea to send it out unless you know the rockwell you need or you can get back a piece of steel that will break like glass. But in this case heat treating is not the answer, you don't want two hardened parts, you want the press fit to be the correct tolerance, and with most bearing applications I machine to 2-tenths and never more than 5-tenths. I don't want to sound like a know-it-all, but I have over 30 years owning and operation a manufacturing company, and well versed in many applications. I have had many a disaster to attend to, and if I can help save someone some time, money, and aggravation I am glad to do so.

I guess it depends on how worn (how much the bearing spun and damaged the hub). In my case I still had to use a rubber mallet to tap them in, but it should of been about 2-tenths fit to be best. I have had lots of good luck seating bearings for applications such as this in the past using the green thread lock to assure that the bearing doesn't spin. Again this probably won't work if there is a few thousands of play, but it is certainly worth a try in my case.

I purchased the roller bearings and can't seam to get them to compress to get all the slop out. There are no shims and I'm not sure if there were that would be the answer since the axle nut should be a compression type for that kind of application. Mine go in but not as tight as I would like. The simple fix to that is a coating of RED or GREEN Locktight. That will hold bearings in very tight providing that we are only talking a few tenths, as in my case. If you know something i don't about how to tighten the rollers I would love to hear.

rocmoc, Do you know where to get the bearings for the front wheels. I purchased a set that are similar but a dual Timken type. When I install them there is still some play? Looks like I have to use shim washers, but no sure. Searched bearing companies but it is a Bastard size. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks, Tony

Lenny, sorry " VW Tie rod end" not ball joint.

Yes I have found that out, however I did like your fix. I did put a VW ball joint in last night and made a tappered spacer and it seems to work pretty good, just enough threads and I used a nylon lock nut. I will check it better when I get home and see if it will do the job safely. Just purchased front bearings, another problem. Had to get them out of Europe. In have good friends Mike and Allen owners of Boca Bearing here in Florida. Mike spent a good 1/2 hour with me trying to find the direct replacement with no luck. I ended up going with a tapered sealed set. Is there something I missed?

Lenny, Where did you say I can see what you did to replace the ball ends? Also is there a auto crossover for the ball joints? Thanks, Tony C.

My business is full of changes and problems to solve almost on a daily level, and we have overcome so many obsticals converted to innovations over the course of three decades to be where we are today with ourt product line. I actually enjoy solving problems, (once I get over the Bitching) and making products better, and I am fortunete to have the facility and tools at my disposal making it a bit easier, however that's no excuse not to take on a project, I remember using my 4" die-grinder as a multipurpose machine back in the day. It keeps you thinking, and for every effort there is usually follow-up knowledge gained for the next project. I urge people in my industry to take on projects, and myself and my company provides plenty of support to see them through sucessfully. This is something we seem to be loosing in our country today and it is and will effect us in the long run. Not everyone is mechanically inclined, I know this all too well, because if they were I would not have the business I have today, however my sons whom are surrounded by all of this are a perfect example of capability without persurverience, and I don't understand it at all, in their case it is plain lazyness. I can not get them to understand the importance in starting and completing a project, as the whole is a problem solving endeavor Personally I get the enjoyment more-so out of the building experience, and when it's done, it's fun for a while then it ends up in the back of the shop or sold. The whole process also keeps me focused for the duration, and I can have two or more projects going at one time which can take a year or two or three to complete, and do so as I have the desire. I drive by golf courses daily to and from my factory, but never had the desire to give it a try, yet I sell products to thousands of guys that play golf. It is something that many of my friends don't understand, yet I find completly normal in my life. It may very well be a sickness, but one I have learned to self-medicate to keep me out of the hospital? That's my excuse, outside of the unwillingness to throw away $5500.00, and be beat by this machine. I'm sure there are many of us on this forum with similar illnesses, maybe not as severe? Don't be afraid to go through with a project regardless of how crazy it sounds to you and what your friends may think. there are always guys willing to lend advice, especially here, and the worst thing you will get in return is experience. Thank, Tony C. P.S.- The hardest part was mostly mental, the first cut with the Sawsall, after that it's a piece of cake.