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I'm 99.9% sure head gasket is blown. Don't have coolant in oil. That a good thing. But think coolant is getting in combustion chamber. I did compression test. Got 120psi walked away. Came back to 105psi 15 minutes later. How hard is it to replace? https://youtu.be/N31mOtOPuKI?si=nSnuF4-weRU2T10t Advise?

Has anyone installed the magnum tuning chip? Is it worth it? Noticeable difference? I have a 2021 Axis 500.

Has anyone found a lift kit that fits an Axis 500? Mine is a 2021.

Last year bought a small universal coolant style cab heater. Well I installed it today. Thanks to another member, RangeRider45, and his install That told in his post the size fitting he used. I got the same fittings plus a few others. And all went kinda smooth. Took a few minutes to get air purged from coolant system. Should have parked on hill with front up in the air. But would have had a hard time working on it. I had a variable power switch connected to an overhead cab fan. Never really used the fan that much. And I have to remove the fan to put on my cab enclosure anyway. So I repurposed the switch to supply power for the heater. The heater has 2 12-volt DC computer fans that are rated for 1.8 amps each. So it's not going to be a big drain on the weak charging system. And with the switch I've got great control over the speed of the fans. If anyone is interested the radiator hoses are 7/8 inch. I reworked the temperature sending unit (moved it closer to radiator) to make room for all the extra plumbing I did to get the heater to work the way I wanted. Plumbing parts list. 10-15 worm water clamps. 3/4 to 1 1/4 inch size. 2 1" x 3/4" x 1" PEX Tee 1 3/4" PEX ball valve 1 1" PEX ball valve 5/8" heater hose. I got 6' and probably have 4' left over. I used the radiator house I cut out to use as splices between the PEX fittings. The PEX fittings are not true to their dimensions that are stated on the package. So they fit the 5/8" and 7/8" very nicely. They way I have it plumbed is from radiation out side. A tee, then the 1" ball valve, then a Tee. Coming off the Tees are the hoses going to the heater core. There is a 3/4" ball valve on one of the Tees. The ball valves are used to bypass the heater core in the summer. Or direct the hot coolant through the heater core in winter. The temperature sending unit tells me how hot the coolant is. And if anything is getting too hot. The dash also has an idiot light that comes on if the head gets too hot. But doesn't do anything if the radiator gets too hot. There is a temp sensor on the radiator that controls the electrical fan. But if the coolant isn't circulating. That switch never sends a signal to turn on the fan. But enough talking/rambling. Everyone wants to see pics. The only thing I need to change is the orientation of the handle on the 1" ball valve. I have 2" or more clearance between the handle and the tire when cut hard right. But I still don't like it. And instead of taking the valve out and rotating 180°. I'm just going to take the nut off and rotate the handle 180°. Think I need to make a locking mechanism to lock the handles in place so they don't vibrate closed when the machine is moving. The temperature sending unit and housing. Size 22 mm. Aluminum from Amazon. Upper Tee the lower Tee is identical. Can also see the handle of the 3/4" ball valve on the 5/8" hose going to the heater. The 1" ball valve. Goes between the 2 Tees Wide view of the plumbing. The heater installed in the sxs. The 3 black hoses are just hanging there. Zip ties to the heater but not attached to any thing. Will probably just direct 2 toward the wife's feet. And 1 toward mine. Or what ever is need as the heat is needed on rides. The black hose in passenger floorboard is some 1" hose that is not needed. Don't know what I'll do with it. I think if I was going to do it again. I'd put some Indian Head gasket dressing or silicone on the 1" side of the PEX fittings. And I may still do that. But I really hate the ideal of introducing air back in the coolant system. Any questions just ask. It may take a while to answer. But I'll try. Ya be good and stay warm over the next few months Kilgore.

2021 Hisun Axis 500 UTV (From Lowes) Will NOT START MY apologies if this is to much info just wanted to give yal the most information possible for help. I'm a so called diyer. An Electrician by trade 21yrs. I got my S×S from my last job. The contractor purchased this S×S for this specific job brand new, from Lowes. They used it for hauling materials, tools, & a little bit of anything you can think of on an Industrial type job site. I remember getting on the SxS one time & pushed the gas petal all the way to the floor & SxS had very little power. So anyway ,when the job finished up back mid July this year (7/2024) , I asked the contractor what they was going to do with it. I was told to take it. Otherwise it would go to the contractors yard (storage yard) & most likely rust away. Took it home washed it , it had a heavy coat of dust on it & in it dust was every where. My helper & I had to push it on the trailer to get it home. After washing it throughly I let it sit & dry out for a good day and half, maybe 2 days. Before trying to start it. NO START. Will turn over & try to start but thats it. So here's what I've purchased & installed. New Air Filter, new spark plug, new air idle control valve (AICV), new throttle position sensor, new throttle body, new oxygen sensor, new digital dash speedometer/fuel gauge/clock. Also drained the old oil & gas & replaced with new oil & 93oct. gas. I should probably mention that I've changed the AICV twice. The 1st time I changed the AICV I was able to get the SxS started & let idle for at least 10-15min. Drove out of the garage, with very little power, turned it around & barely got it back in the garage.That was the one & only time I've been able to start the SxS. I've also cleaned the Throttle Body and & intake with TB cleaner. So after that the AICV was making weird noise so I pulled it out & tried cleaning it, pretty sure I messed it up. So I purchased a Throttle Body that came with new AICV & TPS. Still NO START. I've checked the fuel pump & the fuel injector. I took the injector off still hooked up to wiring & turned the key over, the injector sprayed a lot of gas out kinda the size of a volleyball. I've also checked the clearance gap on the intake & exhaust valve. But today 11/2/2024 I'm going recheck spark plug gap & the valve gaps. And alot of other checking. Would the driver side seat belt have anything to do with it not starting?? I know the driver side seat belt has to be in gauged for full throttle "going fast". Thing is the drv. side seat belt will latch but feels like might be messed up inside of it. Tired opening it up but to no avail. I've never had a S×S or 4wheeler so I was really excited when I got the S×S,not so much anymore. I work on & fix my own vehicles usually no problems. But this SxS is kicking my ass. So if possible & someone could help me with some ideas or tell me what Im doing wrong or did wrong, I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you for reading thus far.

So I've got a 2022 Axis 500 UTV with only 50 miles on the odometer. It seems to have a strange grinding/squeeling noise coming from the clutch when decelerating or going down hill at lower speeds. Did some research, and found out this is apparently a fairly common thing. Alot of sources suggest the one way bearing is responsible. I'm hearing about quite a few horror stories about these bearings going bad on practically new machines, and when they replace the bearing it goes bad again shortly after. Has anyone come up with a solid fix for this? I've read it may be possible to run the UTV without the bearing at all, is that true? Are the $20 replacement bearings from eBay and Amazon complete garbage, and is there a better one way bearing out there that's built stronger? Is there something else causing this bearing to wear out faster, or is the stock bearing complete junk? Any input is appreciated, thanks in advance!

View File Hisun Axis 500-700 Service Manual (2020 Version) This is the 2020 updated version from the previous 2009 version. I do not know all the differences. I do know the 2020 models have throttle body , idle air control valve, & idle control sensor. HS700UTV-4/HS500UTV-4 Hisun Axis 500-700 Service Manual Submitter Hunterman22 Submitted 08/10/2024 Category Hisun  

I bought my axis a couple months ago and noticed that when I turn my lights on, I have no tail lights, no licence plate light, and one of my high beams doesn't work. I switched the bulb in the headlight and the bulb works so it isn't it. I have brake and flasher lights but not tail lights. I have been waiting for a mobile tech but I would like to drive my utv at night. Any help appreciated.

We purchased this UTV less than 60 days ago and now I am having issues with drained battery. Used UTV for about an hour then stopped and when I went to start back up my battery was to low to start it. Jumped it and it started right up and ran fine back home. Tested charging and it’s not charging while running. Can it be anything other than the stater??? Can I look for something that I can fix Quik or does it have to go to the authorized service center to stay under warranty? It will take some time to get it in and out of service

I installed an electric coolant temp gauge and volt gauge today. The oil pressure gauge I ordered had a bad sending unit. So once the replacement arrives. I'll add that install to the post. The I used a 22mm temp radiator adapter. 1/8 " NTP x 1/8 NTP adapter. And an electric temp gauge. Had to take a drill and drill bit to enlarge the 1/8 NTP adapter to allow the temp sending unit to pass thru. Another user on the forum enlarged the 1/8 NTP hole in the 22mm radiator to 1/4 NTP and used a 1/4 NTP x 1/8 NTP reducer. Either way would work. Both has it challenges. And both accomplished the same thing. To get the sending unit just barely in the coolant. If you just put the sending unit in. IMO it just blocks too much of the coolant flow. I didn't get a pic of how far the sending unit protrudes into the rad adapter. But it wasn't a lot. And also since it an electric gauge the sending unit needed to be grounded. But since there wasn't a place on the temp radiator adapter. I used a clamp to secure a ground/negative wires to the temp sending unit. The gauge wiring was simple. The gauge's wiring harness had a red, green, and black wire. Red goes to a positive. Black to a negative. Green to the sending unit. Since I had some 18 AGW speaker wire. I used that to run to the sending unit. Red to green, black to black. Then another piece of the speaker wire from the gauge to power source. I tapped into the 12V power outlet on the dash. (Just as I did for the overhead fan.) Then used a 2" hole saw to cut into the plastic above what I'd call the radio door. The gauge goes to about 174° F then the radiator fan kicks on. Cools down to about 150° F and kicks off. Now the lowest the temp gauge will read is 104° when you first start the machine. That is the nature of the gauge. Even says so on the web page. So I'll just have to live with it. The voltage gauge . Was simple to install. Just a positive and negative wire to connect. Tapped into the 12V power outlet on the dash.

I installed an electric coolant temp gauge and volt gauge today. The oil pressure gauge I ordered had a bad sending unit. So once the replacement arrives. I'll add that install to the post. The I used a 22mm temp radiator adapter. 1/8 " NTP x 1/8 NTP adapter. And an electric temp gauge. Had to take a drill and drill bit to enlarge the 1/8 NTP adapter to allow the temp sending unit to pass thru. Another user on the forum enlarged the 1/8 NTP hole in the 22mm radiator to 1/4 NTP and used a 1/4 NTP x 1/8 NTP reducer. Either way would work. Both has it challenges. And both accomplished the same thing. To get the sending unit just barely in the coolant. If you just put the sending unit in. IMO it just blocks too much of the coolant flow. I didn't get a pic of how far the sending unit protrudes into the rad adapter. But it wasn't a lot. And also since it an electric gauge the sending unit needed to be grounded. But since there wasn't a place on the temp radiator adapter. I used a clamp to secure a ground/negative wires to the temp sending unit. The gauge wiring was simple. The gauge's wiring harness had a red, green, and black wire. Red goes to a positive. Black to a negative. Green to the sending unit. Since I had some 18 AGW speaker wire. I used that to run to the sending unit. Red to green, black to black. Then another piece of the speaker wire from the gauge to power source. I tapped into the 12V power outlet on the dash. (Just as I did for the overhead fan.) Then used a 2" hole saw to cut into the plastic above what I'd call the radio door. The gauge goes to about 174° F then the radiator fan kicks on. Cools down to about 150° F and kicks off. Now the lowest the temp gauge will read is 104° when you first start the machine. That is the nature of the gauge. Even says so on the web page. So I'll just have to live with it. The voltage gauge . Was simple to install. Just a positive and negative wire to connect. Tapped into the 12V power outlet on the dash.

I have a Axis 500 with less than 10 hours on it. Runs fine when first started but after 20 to 30 minutes of run time it sputters and mises. I can cover the breather and it will run but as soon as you take your hand off of the intake it does the same thing, so I know it is a air/fuel ratio problem but don't know what sensor it could be. Repair shop says 6 to 8 weeks to look at it. Anyone had the same issues? Also, where would you be able to get parts?

Hello folks, I would like to purchase some security lug nuts for the Axis 500, but not sure of thread size. Anyone know the thread size and/or can recommend a product. Thanks... Mike

Hello all I have owned my axis 500 for almost 2 years and it has been a very good machine. Speedometer quit working the other day, orderd a new one and and installed it. The old one had a bunch of shavings on it, Didn't think much about it, Took for a ride and speedometer works as it should. Wiped the oil and shavings off the old one to see that the shavings were from the sensor itself. The end it all chewed up. I don't hear any noises or grinding, and a little hard of hearing anyway and machine is kind of loud. Any Idea's what may have caused this? Am a little worried about now and afraid to drive it.

I just put the koplin Switchblade plow together and I am having trouble finding the mount location. If anyone knows please send a pic or diagram. Thank you!!

Went for a little ride at night. Best time to have trouble. Was going up a dirt/gravel hill and lost forward motion. Heard a popping/ grinding sound. Looked with a light but couldn't see anything. Could select reverse but same popping/grinding sound. I put the machine in neutral and rolled backwards and turned in a driveway. Put in gear to pull out. Just more popping. Selected 4WD and got the 3-4 miles back home. Once home had wife put in reverse and give a little gas. Discovered the drive shaft was moving in and out of the transmission bout 1/8 to 1/4 inches but not spinning. I posted to a thread already created by another having a similar issue. Then read the next thread and this guy was having the same issue on a 700. So not to hijack a thread decided to make my own. I made a repair request on the axis site for a mobile tech since the closest shop is over 3 hrs away. Will wait for a response before I do any work since this should be covered by the warranty. Just wondering. If I did have to tackle this myself, is there a easy way to get the driveshaft out without having to take the whole rear diff out? Below is a diagram. I'll not be able to do anything to the machine until the weekend since I'm working out of town. Then only have Saturdays to work on it then. If I have to work on it. What would be the easiest way to get the driveshaft out? I've got tools and know how to use them. Just need a starting point. Thanks in advance.

Most of the time my 500 runs fine. However twice now, after I had been running the marching for a while I have had issues with it stalling when I put it into gear. It will start and idle fine, but when I try to put it into gear (forward or reverse) the engine stalls. Both times I was finally able to get it to turn well enough to get home by starting the engine, pushing the 500 then while moving put it into gear. After that it ran fine, including while stopped. I have pulled the cover off of the belt, and everything seems to be fine. Any thoughts/suggestions on what to check? Thanks!!

Wife and I were on a little 20ish mile ride. Machine was running fine. Stopped at store to get a drink. Inside maybe 10 minutes. Came back out and Axis would not start without giving it gas. Axis would not idle. Had to hold gas to keep idle around 1500. Let off gas and it would die. Restart a few times but didn't turn key off before starting again. Just went from run to start with key switch. So I kept idle around 1500 shifted to H and headed to the house. Dash flashed error code 201. Axis ran fine. Except when we had to turn around. It would die when letting off gas. Started right back up. Got to the house. Let off gas and Axis died when I Let off gas. Turned key switch off. Waited 30 seconds. Started without hitting gas and it idled just fine. Both in neutral and in gear. Thinking it maybe be something with ignition switch. Cause when it would not idle when starting. I did not turn key to off. I just tried to start again. But after I got home and it died. I turned key off waited and it started back and idled just fine. Thoughts, advice?

Anyone know of a place I can buy a radio to fit a (Hisun) Axis 500. Lowes is no help 🙂

I was reading through the owner's manual that the initial break-in service was 50 miles. Besides an Engine Oil and Oil Filter change, are any other other fluids (final drive, differential) scheduled for replacement for this initial break-in service? Anyone got any maintenance schedules on how often to change the oil and fluids?

I have a popping noise that kinda sounds like rocks clinkin on acceleration. The sound is coming from under the center console area between the two seats. I have an Axis 500 with 70 hours Any help is appreciated

First time posting on this forum so be gentle LOL! I've used the SEARCH function but can't seem to find this topic. I have a new AXIS (Lowes) 500 SxS. It didn't come with the slide in Hitch Adatper (See pictured below) so I can't connect any of my existing components to this unit. The fact that they use a retainer that goes Up and Down instead of the standard left to right means I can't use standard "Reese Hitch" type slide in. Where can I get this component? I've contacted LOWES and they gave me a phone # to AXIS and I've called AXIS 3x, emailed 2x, and left 3 Facebook messages since February and I have gotten ZERO help. Any ideas?

I purchased a new Axis 500 last year . I have about 20 hours run time. I now have a sound coming from underneath that sounds like a bunch of rocks sliding around in a metal pan when it's moving forward. Anyone have any ideas on what's causing this. The sound seems to be coming from underneath the floor board. Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks, Chris M.