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I'm 99.9% sure head gasket is blown. Don't have coolant in oil. That a good thing. But think coolant is getting in combustion chamber. I did compression test. Got 120psi walked away. Came back to 105psi 15 minutes later. How hard is it to replace? https://youtu.be/N31mOtOPuKI?si=nSnuF4-weRU2T10t Advise?

Has anyone installed the magnum tuning chip? Is it worth it? Noticeable difference? I have a 2021 Axis 500.

Has anyone found a lift kit that fits an Axis 500? Mine is a 2021.

Last year bought a small universal coolant style cab heater. Well I installed it today. Thanks to another member, RangeRider45, and his install That told in his post the size fitting he used. I got the same fittings plus a few others. And all went kinda smooth. Took a few minutes to get air purged from coolant system. Should have parked on hill with front up in the air. But would have had a hard time working on it. I had a variable power switch connected to an overhead cab fan. Never really used the fan that much. And I have to remove the fan to put on my cab enclosure anyway. So I repurposed the switch to supply power for the heater. The heater has 2 12-volt DC computer fans that are rated for 1.8 amps each. So it's not going to be a big drain on the weak charging system. And with the switch I've got great control over the speed of the fans. If anyone is interested the radiator hoses are 7/8 inch. I reworked the temperature sending unit (moved it closer to radiator) to make room for all the extra plumbing I did to get the heater to work the way I wanted. Plumbing parts list. 10-15 worm water clamps. 3/4 to 1 1/4 inch size. 2 1" x 3/4" x 1" PEX Tee 1 3/4" PEX ball valve 1 1" PEX ball valve 5/8" heater hose. I got 6' and probably have 4' left over. I used the radiator house I cut out to use as splices between the PEX fittings. The PEX fittings are not true to their dimensions that are stated on the package. So they fit the 5/8" and 7/8" very nicely. They way I have it plumbed is from radiation out side. A tee, then the 1" ball valve, then a Tee. Coming off the Tees are the hoses going to the heater core. There is a 3/4" ball valve on one of the Tees. The ball valves are used to bypass the heater core in the summer. Or direct the hot coolant through the heater core in winter. The temperature sending unit tells me how hot the coolant is. And if anything is getting too hot. The dash also has an idiot light that comes on if the head gets too hot. But doesn't do anything if the radiator gets too hot. There is a temp sensor on the radiator that controls the electrical fan. But if the coolant isn't circulating. That switch never sends a signal to turn on the fan. But enough talking/rambling. Everyone wants to see pics. The only thing I need to change is the orientation of the handle on the 1" ball valve. I have 2" or more clearance between the handle and the tire when cut hard right. But I still don't like it. And instead of taking the valve out and rotating 180°. I'm just going to take the nut off and rotate the handle 180°. Think I need to make a locking mechanism to lock the handles in place so they don't vibrate closed when the machine is moving. The temperature sending unit and housing. Size 22 mm. Aluminum from Amazon. Upper Tee the lower Tee is identical. Can also see the handle of the 3/4" ball valve on the 5/8" hose going to the heater. The 1" ball valve. Goes between the 2 Tees Wide view of the plumbing. The heater installed in the sxs. The 3 black hoses are just hanging there. Zip ties to the heater but not attached to any thing. Will probably just direct 2 toward the wife's feet. And 1 toward mine. Or what ever is need as the heat is needed on rides. The black hose in passenger floorboard is some 1" hose that is not needed. Don't know what I'll do with it. I think if I was going to do it again. I'd put some Indian Head gasket dressing or silicone on the 1" side of the PEX fittings. And I may still do that. But I really hate the ideal of introducing air back in the coolant system. Any questions just ask. It may take a while to answer. But I'll try. Ya be good and stay warm over the next few months Kilgore.

This started back in the summer. While on a ride with the wife. Applied the foot brake and the pedal went to the floor. Thought the brake pads were gone. Ordered new pads. Removed the wheels to install new pads and they were in good shape. So I bled all 4 brakes cylinders. Got thin dirty fluid out. Almost like dirty water. No air. Got a good pedal. Then about a month later, same thing, brake pedal back on the floor. Could pump the pedal and get a little pedal back. Bled again and finally got a good pedal. The fluid was nasty like before. No air. And the fluid was topped off in the reservoir before I started the bleeding process. Now same thing. Pedal going back to the floor. Reservoir still full. I'm thinking the master cylinder is bypassing. So have a new on on the way and will report back. What do you guys think. Could it be something else. I used one of those hand operated vacuum pumps to pull the fluid out of the reservoir when I was bleeding before. First time I've used one. And after a small amount of fluid filled the catch bottle. Seemed like the vacuum pump quit working. Had to close the bleed screw. Pump the brake one time. The start the vacuum thing again. Again just wondering what you guys think. Using DOT 3 and DOT 4 brake fluid. Whatever I can get at a reasonable price at parts store.

This post will explain how to hook up your PC to the ECU of a Hisun/Coleman/Etc UTV to be able to read error codes & engine parameters for troubleshooting purposes. This is applicable to all small engines using the Delphi MT-05 ECU. This should cover all fuel injected Hisun models, as well as various other Chinese FI engines, as the Delphi MT-05 ECU seems to be the favored ECU solution. Even though we get actual engine error codes to display on the dash, sometimes we have “pending codes” (not yet confirmed by the ECU) or other intermittent issues that are hard to diagnose, for example a poorly connected sensor that may give intermittent false readings, or a sensor that’s putting out bad date, but not bad enough for the ECU to realize. The setup requires 2 cables, which are available for around $25 combined, a PC with a USB port, and some charityware software called “HUD ECU Hacker”. This gives the same functionality as the $300 dealer code scanner for a fraction of the price. In searching I found info about HUD ECU Hacker, but I have yet to see info anywhere about how to hook it up to a Hisun, so I took the leap and bought some cables, and made it work. I will show a step by step of how to do so in post two. I will be breaking this down into 2 posts: Delphi ECU Info & Overview (This post) System setup & use Delphi ECU Info (Skip ahead to the next post if your eyes glaze over technical details) The Delphi MT-05 ECU was developed to allow small engines to use fuel injection. A fuel injection system requires feedback from various sensors to operate efficiently. This feedback allows the adjustment of ignition timing, fuel injection volume, etc to efficiently and cleanly produce the most power possible from a given engine. The MT-05 ECU has a number of sensors that are required for proper functioning including; Coolant temp, crankshaft position, intake temp, intake pressure, exhaust O2, throttle position, as well as some other optional sensors that are used on more complex vehicles. From the sensors the ECU adjusts: Fuel injector timing/pulse, Idle air control valve, and ignition coil The Delphi MT-05 puts out diagnostic data, however it is not ODB2 like a modern car, where is where it gets tricky reading it. There are three options, there is an old 16 bit piece of software Delphi has that is not able to run on a modern computer, there is the motorscanner tool for dealers ($300), or there is freeware HUD ECU Hacker with the proper cables.

After 10 hours of use, my machine had developed a low speed brake squeal. I removed the brake assembly and discovered that everything was put together dry. Not even lubrication on the caliper pins. After lubricating and reassembly, the squeal has disappeared. I will do the other three wheels today. Also, all grease fittings were under-greased (if at all) based on the amount of grease filled before they purged. This includes the drivelines. Next- I found many screws which were loose and/or stripped. I was able to tighten or fix them with my tap and die set. The lower a-arms on the front do not have grease zerks. I will remove the arms and install some. I guess I’m not surprised or even disappointed. These are just things that should be looked at on any machine. One thing I am pissed about though, is this “weld from hell” on the front . Totally unacceptable. For sure there will be water entry and eventual internal rust. (see photo) I will fix it. I did an oil and filter change which some of you will say was not necessary. But break-in time is when you are most likely to have contamination from production and initial wear-in. BTW there was some metal in the filter. Cheap insurance to change often. Engine access is very difficult on this machine compared to other models. You have to remove lots of stuff to get to it. But I still like the machine very much, and I’m having a ball with it. Future plans include lights, cab enclosure and heater. Winters are long in Northern Michigan. PB

I've seen a number of requests for the location of all the grease points on these machines, and there is no definitive list in the manual. This covers the UT400, but other Coleman/Hisun models should be similar. Tools: First to grease your machine you need a grease gun and some NLGI#2 grease. You will find it helpful to buy a needle attachment as pictured here, due to poor clearance on some of the U-joints. The rest of the zerks use the standard attachment. Technique: Wipe any dirt/grease off the zerk before greasing to prevent pushing gunk inside and causing excess wear. Push the grease gun on the zerk at a straight angle and give it a few pumps. You will hear an oozing noise or sea grease coming out from the outside of the greased area when you've put enough grease in, a few pumps should be plenty. If it's just oozing around the zerk you either don't have a good seat with the gun, or the zerk may be rusted and the check ball frozen. Try seating it again and regrease. Wipe up any excess grease when youre done to prevent making a mess. Greasepoints: Rear A-Arms are greasable with the wheels on from the rear, I took the picture with the wheel off for easier visibility That's it. All other Hisuns should be substantially similar.

View File Hisun HS400/Coleman UT400 Parts Diagrams Compiled document with parts diagrams for Hisun HS400/Coleman UT400 for help in repairs where the service manual diagrams are poor or non existent. Submitter aefron88 Submitted 04/15/2024 Category Hisun  

Can someone explain why the master link i got from an atv shop wont work on the chain for the strike 250? It looks like it fits but its just thick enough its wont slip through the holes of each end of the link! The chains says its a 520 link and thats what i got but i am wondering if the hisun chain is just a hair different.

I installed an electric coolant temp gauge and volt gauge today. The oil pressure gauge I ordered had a bad sending unit. So once the replacement arrives. I'll add that install to the post. The I used a 22mm temp radiator adapter. 1/8 " NTP x 1/8 NTP adapter. And an electric temp gauge. Had to take a drill and drill bit to enlarge the 1/8 NTP adapter to allow the temp sending unit to pass thru. Another user on the forum enlarged the 1/8 NTP hole in the 22mm radiator to 1/4 NTP and used a 1/4 NTP x 1/8 NTP reducer. Either way would work. Both has it challenges. And both accomplished the same thing. To get the sending unit just barely in the coolant. If you just put the sending unit in. IMO it just blocks too much of the coolant flow. I didn't get a pic of how far the sending unit protrudes into the rad adapter. But it wasn't a lot. And also since it an electric gauge the sending unit needed to be grounded. But since there wasn't a place on the temp radiator adapter. I used a clamp to secure a ground/negative wires to the temp sending unit. The gauge wiring was simple. The gauge's wiring harness had a red, green, and black wire. Red goes to a positive. Black to a negative. Green to the sending unit. Since I had some 18 AGW speaker wire. I used that to run to the sending unit. Red to green, black to black. Then another piece of the speaker wire from the gauge to power source. I tapped into the 12V power outlet on the dash. (Just as I did for the overhead fan.) Then used a 2" hole saw to cut into the plastic above what I'd call the radio door. The gauge goes to about 174° F then the radiator fan kicks on. Cools down to about 150° F and kicks off. Now the lowest the temp gauge will read is 104° when you first start the machine. That is the nature of the gauge. Even says so on the web page. So I'll just have to live with it. The voltage gauge . Was simple to install. Just a positive and negative wire to connect. Tapped into the 12V power outlet on the dash.

I installed an electric coolant temp gauge and volt gauge today. The oil pressure gauge I ordered had a bad sending unit. So once the replacement arrives. I'll add that install to the post. The I used a 22mm temp radiator adapter. 1/8 " NTP x 1/8 NTP adapter. And an electric temp gauge. Had to take a drill and drill bit to enlarge the 1/8 NTP adapter to allow the temp sending unit to pass thru. Another user on the forum enlarged the 1/8 NTP hole in the 22mm radiator to 1/4 NTP and used a 1/4 NTP x 1/8 NTP reducer. Either way would work. Both has it challenges. And both accomplished the same thing. To get the sending unit just barely in the coolant. If you just put the sending unit in. IMO it just blocks too much of the coolant flow. I didn't get a pic of how far the sending unit protrudes into the rad adapter. But it wasn't a lot. And also since it an electric gauge the sending unit needed to be grounded. But since there wasn't a place on the temp radiator adapter. I used a clamp to secure a ground/negative wires to the temp sending unit. The gauge wiring was simple. The gauge's wiring harness had a red, green, and black wire. Red goes to a positive. Black to a negative. Green to the sending unit. Since I had some 18 AGW speaker wire. I used that to run to the sending unit. Red to green, black to black. Then another piece of the speaker wire from the gauge to power source. I tapped into the 12V power outlet on the dash. (Just as I did for the overhead fan.) Then used a 2" hole saw to cut into the plastic above what I'd call the radio door. The gauge goes to about 174° F then the radiator fan kicks on. Cools down to about 150° F and kicks off. Now the lowest the temp gauge will read is 104° when you first start the machine. That is the nature of the gauge. Even says so on the web page. So I'll just have to live with it. The voltage gauge . Was simple to install. Just a positive and negative wire to connect. Tapped into the 12V power outlet on the dash.

At 185 hours while do a little riding noticed using a little more fuel that the trip should have taken and running a little rough. Thought it might be time to clean the air filter. I while back, I bought a filter kit for another sxs I had but never installed. I was going to do the snorkel thing. Anyway, while I was as cleaning the air filter for the Axis 500. I mocked up this filter kit and wanted to know if anyone could give a reason why this wouldn't work. I plan on removing the air box completely. Moving the PCV valve hose to the side of the large hose going to the throttle body instead of the way it is now. Now it connects to the air box. There is already a hole in that hose and it just has a 90° fitting on it and then a plug. Then route some pipe thru the tunnel that the front drive shaft uses. Then up under the hood and mount the new filter there. I even bought a hood scoop to use. See pics below. Here is the way it is from the factory. Notice the hose plugged into the top of the air box. That is for the PCV valve. It provides suction for the crankcase to keep from blowing seals. You can't see in the pic, but there is a hose that connects to the crank case. That hose connects to a box with 2 hoses coming off. One of those hoses goes down to under the sxs to let any oil that is sucked up drip on the ground. The other hose connects to the air box. Here is the passenger side of the air box. Notice the 90° nipple on the large hose running between the air box and the throttle body. Here is a pic of the kit I got off Amazon. Here are some pics with the air box removed, PCV hose relocated, and the hose coming up into the hood area thru the tunnel that the front drive shaft uses. I will probably have to relocate the radiator overflow jug. I know I will probably have to use solid pipe instead of that plastic flex stuff. And will have to keep it clear of the drive shaft. The only issue I see it the air coming in thru the PVC hose is not filtered. It also could cause more suction on the crankcase and cause the sxs to use some oil. Those little square boxes on top to the throttle hose are empty. I may have to connect the PCV hose to that and add a filter in that square box. But other than that. Does anyone know of any reason this shouldn't work? Once I get it installed I can close off the holes in the engine cover that is currently uses by the air box. That will help keep noise and heat out of the cab in the summer.

I can shift into reverse and 'high' gear beautifully, but I can't get the UTV to go into low. I hired a mechanic to change the belt, and clean the clutches. When it came back 'low' gear no longer worked. I tried to change I've tried replacing fan gears https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08V97JZL5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 that were worn down, and it shifts better but, didn't fix the low gear problem. I can't shift into low with the engine off either. It indicates that it's in low gear, but I hear what sounds like something spinning in the middle of the UTV. It seems like the mechanic didn't know what he was doing. Never even mentioned it to me that 'Low' didn't work, until I went to use the

Sorry if this is on this site new to going on forums I have a 2021 hisun sector e1. I've seen people say they put lithium in can someone point me to what and how many lithium batteries to put on this bike. Thanks I notice up hill the low range says 400 amps on the dash.

Was wondering which one is better bang for the buck. Just going to use it on my property. Yard clean up’s , snow plowing firewood,back and forth to the lake. Probably 600/550 models. Is there enough power to plow a foot of snow. All info is greatly appreciated. Thanks you

I've been looking for a cross to a filter from a known manufacturer since I bought this machine. Both from a cost standpoint, and a known quality standpoint. The factory filters are just plain black with no markings. Due to price point on these machines I would assume that the factory filter would be made as.cheap as possible I have not had any real luck finding a cross, so In doing my first oil change I decided to cut the factory filter and see what is inside. I don't have a fancy oil filter cutting set up, so I just clamped it in the vise and went to town with my portaband. Excuse the rough cuts and metal shavings. Looks like a good quality filter, plenty of pleats/surface area. Metal endcaps. Excuse the crushing, that's from the vise/strap wrench to remove it. Relief valve And a spring in the bottom of the can to keep the top silicone anti-drainback pressed in place. Overall looks like a surprisingly good quality filter for a no name. At least we can know that using the factory filters on these should be acceptable. I feel better about paying $10 for this filter at least knowing it's good quality.

Service manual for Hisun 750. Cannot find for download. Does it exist?

View File 2015 Hisun Axis/Forge 110cc Service Manual This is the Service Manual for a 2015 Hisun Axis/Forge 110 ATV. It may include other years. Submitter AdamG Submitted 06/04/2021 Category Hisun  

Curious if anyone has successfully added a light bar to a Coleman / Hisun 550cc UTV. I got mine at Tractor supply last November, but I understand they are the same machine as a Hisun. I've been scouring the interwebs for information regarding the wiring harness to no avail. Wondering if anyone on this forum as had success and could offer some tips. Thanks y'all

View File 2020 Hisun HS400 Service Manual This is the latest (MY 2020+) HS400 service manual--, it is dated December 2019, I got it from Hisun and edited it to correct spelling, add bookmarks, and flag obviously bad information (they had the transmission and shift mechanism section completely fouled up, showing the 2-speed (L-H-N-R) tranny from the HS500+ models. I inserted a proper transmission shaft (input, counter and output) diagram as well. It has a great electrical diagram I posted separately a while back... Submitter cliffyk Submitted 04/24/2021 Category Hisun