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Showing results for tags 'ut400'.
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I have forward and reverse but no neutral on my ut 400 Coleman
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I've seen a number of requests for the location of all the grease points on these machines, and there is no definitive list in the manual. This covers the UT400, but other Coleman/Hisun models should be similar. Tools: First to grease your machine you need a grease gun and some NLGI#2 grease. You will find it helpful to buy a needle attachment as pictured here, due to poor clearance on some of the U-joints. The rest of the zerks use the standard attachment. Technique: Wipe any dirt/grease off the zerk before greasing to prevent pushing gunk inside and causing excess wear. Push the grease gun on the zerk at a straight angle and give it a few pumps. You will hear an oozing noise or sea grease coming out from the outside of the greased area when you've put enough grease in, a few pumps should be plenty. If it's just oozing around the zerk you either don't have a good seat with the gun, or the zerk may be rusted and the check ball frozen. Try seating it again and regrease. Wipe up any excess grease when youre done to prevent making a mess. Greasepoints: Rear A-Arms are greasable with the wheels on from the rear, I took the picture with the wheel off for easier visibility That's it. All other Hisuns should be substantially similar.
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View File Hisun HS400/Coleman UT400 Parts Diagrams Compiled document with parts diagrams for Hisun HS400/Coleman UT400 for help in repairs where the service manual diagrams are poor or non existent. Submitter aefron88 Submitted 04/15/2024 Category Hisun
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Hello to anyone who reads this. I am Jon and I own J&M Outdoor Power, a very small, small engine repair shop. I was approached by Coleman about 6 months ago to become one of their Warranty Centers. I recently received 3 different UT400's and a UT500 all with similar issues. These units range from 2 months to 2 years old. Customers state that the unit(s) was/were running fine, then heard a pop and a loss of power, two would no longer start. The two that would run would not achieve normal operating speed (around 20mph I would say) without redlining the RPMs. I quickly found that the Valve lash on each unit had become too large on some(both intake and exhaust) and too tight on one(just intake). After setting the gaps to .005(I found multiple different people suggesting bigger and smaller gaps, but no definitive Coleman Spec number yet) every unit starts, runs, and achieves top speed without issue. I don't know how many others have come across these issues, and I wanted to get something out on the web for others in the same predicament. Please let me know if you have had similar issues. Edit: I realize that this will not be a fix all solution for this issue, as the oil level and condition should be verified before moving to the valves. Many times improper oil conditions will cause valve lash to change. These units all have good oil and proper oil changes.
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Since I've seen some questions on this I took some pictures and will provide instructions on a valve adjustment for the UT400. This should be the same for the 550's and other various Coleman/Hisun single cylinder models with the cylinder slanted aft. I have seen several people ask of it is really necessary, and read several reports of valves being out of adjustment from the factory. My valves were .004" intake, and .010" exhaust with about 5 hrs on the machine. I've seen different numbers thrown around for factory spec, but I decided to go with 0.005". This is called valve lash. What is is is a gap between the rocker arm and the valve then the camshaft isnt opening the valve. Why does it matter? If it's too large the valve doesn't open all the way, if it's too small the valve dosent close. This can cause valve damage (overheating) as well as loss of engine power (burned fuel is going out exhaust rather than pushing the piston dow). Tools required : 5MM Allen wrench, 10MM box wrench, needle nose pliers, flat feeler gauge set, rags First you need to remove the fan cover on the passenger side. There is a cooling vent hose on the back side, remove the hose clamp and slide it off. From there there are 4x 10mm bolts holding the cover. The forward ones can be accessed from under the seat. Next remove the spark plug from the drivers side. Carefully wiggle the spark plug wire off. Grip it as low as possible and give it a little twisting motion as you pull it off to help free it. Its a tight fit for a socket, but there is a sheet metal wrench in the toolkit that fits it. Unscrew the plug and set it aside. This allows you to spin the motor over freely with no compression to fight. When you reassemble this is a good opportunity to switch to an NGK iridium plug for better performance/less fouling DR8EIX) Next you need to remove the intake and exhaust valve covers. The intake us the forward one. There are 3x 5MM Allen screws to remove. The Exhaust is the rear with 2x 5MM Allen bolts. Both covers have O-Rings instead of gaskets and are reusable. When you remove the rear be careful and use your rags as there will be oil that drips out. Next up we need to spin the motor over to top dead center. Grab each rocker arm and give em a little wiggle up and down. Spin the engine over by grabbing the fan with your other hand. Spin the engine over until both rockers have some wiggle and are loose. Once both rockers are loose slide the feeler gauge in like shown above. Try different feelers as needed to determine your starting spec. You should feel some drag but still be able to move the feeler without too much force. If you need to adjust, use the 10MM wrench to slightly loosen the locknut, then with the correct feeler gauge in place, tighten the top square nut while wiggling the feeler in and out. Once you have it right you need to tighten the 10mm lock nut without moving the square head bolt. Once the lock nut is tight recheck the clearance. That's it, button everything back up and make sure you have it all reassembled before running it again. If you find this helpful give me a thumbs up or comment. If you have any questions or need more help let me know. If there's interest maybe I'll do some more of these
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I am looking for assembly instructions for a Coleman UT400. Appreciate any help.
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Well, the subject says it all! After the motor stopped, I went out and bought gas and filled the tank. Tried to start and it just cranked - no fire. I assumed I had spark, because nothing changed there. I pulled the plug and could not smell gas. The plug was dry. Put it back in and tried to flood it by piumping the pedal, but it was still dry when I took out again. The gas gage red fuel lights didn't seem to recognize that I filled the tank (see previous fuel Haugen posts). Disconnected and reconnected the negative battery terminal hoping it would reset any interlocks that might be set. Now the ignition panel will not light up when ignition turned to "On". Things are getting worse instead of better! Have the fuse panel open, will check fuses tomorrow. Can anyone help me get back on track? No shop here in Tucson will work on it! Nice unit. But you're on your own for maintenence. Thanks for any help!
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We just purchased the Coleman UT400, I put 5 gallons of fuel in the tank and the fuel indicator still reads "empty". After looking around the fuel tank, I found a tube that is only connected at one end, maybe this is the issue? I have been looking for a more comprehensive manual that may show how this tube should be connected, no luck. Looking for help on this issue/issues. Thank you.
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View File Outfitter-UT400-ShiftCable Adjustment I got this from Coleman, detailed instruction re: shift cable adjustment... I forgot to mention you will need two 22 mm wrenches for the cable lock nuts. I hacked up a couple of cheap "quality tools for less" combination wrenches using a cut-off wheel in an angle grinder: Kind of like "flare nut wrenches", good for light duty like this. Submitter cliffyk Submitted 03/19/2021 Category Coleman
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I have a 2021 Coleman UT 400. The weight capacity of the rear cargo was only 330 pounds and it’s sags with just 100 pounds in the back. I’m wondering if anyone has any insight on upgrading the rear shocks, and/or springs to give it a better weight load capacity? I’m sure all the popular shock brands out there like Elka suspension do not carry them for these particular models so if anyone has ever ran into this issue and has any ideas on upgrading the shocks and I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you.
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Playing on some crappy gravel roads I've noticed a fair bit of rattling from the bed area. I decided to try adding some soundproofing mat under the bed. Here's what I did: I got some peel and stick sound matting with a foil backing off Amazon. It's meant for sound deadening in automotive applications. I Cut the pieces to size so they would fit between the framing and applied. I only did the middle as the sides of the bed are part of the wheelwell and subject to mud spray and splashing. It has eliminated all the bed rattle and seems to have reduced some of the engine noise. I've done a few test drives and have no heat issues on the matting.
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View File HS400 Seat Belt Defeat and Oil Filler 3D Here are a couple more 3D printer files for the HS400/Coleman UT400 & Outfiltter 400. Included in the .zip file are my version of a seat belt interlock defeat insert (SeatBeltThing-01.stl)and an oil filler adapter allowing a 1/2"I.D. hose to be attached making adding oil a less messy operation (OIlFiller-whole-03.stl) --both may also work on other UTVs with similar the seat belt connectors and a 3/4" x 10 threaded dipstick... Submitter cliffyk Submitted 04/20/2021 Category Hisun
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I have a fairly new UT400 bought from Tractor Supply in November 2021. I am second owner and have had it only for a couple of days. It has 15 hours on it. I just filled the tank all the way the other day and drove it around a bit. Last night it started leaking gas all over the garage floor. This thing still looks brand new and has not been driven hard by me. I do hear a bit more rattling than I would like but otherwise starts and runs great. Any ideas why it would start leaking underneath the chassis?
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Can Colman UT400 be governed to 10mph?
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Is there a universal roof to fit a 400.?
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Here are a couple more 3D printer files for the HS400/Coleman UT400 & Outfiltter 400. Included in the .zip file are my version of a seat belt interlock defeat insert (SeatBeltThing-01.stl) and an oil filler adapter allowing a 1/2"I.D. hose to be attached making adding oil a less messy operation (OIlFiller-whole-03.stl) --both may also work on other UTVs with similar the seat belt connectors and a 3/4" x 10 threaded dipstick...