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By weasel
starts up you have keep rpms up for 5 minutes till it warms up then runs fine. But if it stalls wont start unless you unplug fuel pump and hold it to the floor till it starts then plug pump back in and run it till it warms up then it is fine all day.
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By hisun junk
I have a 2018 cub cadet challenger 750 with a broke chinese hisun motor and I know that I'm not alone! Almost all the places that were selling them in Colorado don't anymore due to the return for repairs on the clutches and broken timing chains! Don't have yours fixed because it will happen again! They just replace the broken parts with more junk chinese parts! I talked with a UTV mechanic that has replaced one person's clutch 4 times! I have people contacting cub cadet about these problems and also looking into complete motor replacement from hisun junk to a Japanese motor in which the chinese cloned their junk from.
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By mac66
I bought a used 2021 Axis 500 last April. Low mileage and got it for considerably less than what they go for new.
The first thing I did was change the oil/fluids and also put a new drive belt on it. The only other thing I did to it was add a rear vinyl window that zips open and rolls up to keep the weather off.
I used it on my 52 acre property to check trail cameras, service the food plots, haul fertilizer, seed etc etc. It's has a good size bed and is not too big or small. It has worked well as a utility vehicle.
Other than using on the trails working around the property I haven't used it much off road...at least until last weekend when I went on 74 mile group ride around the county. In my state it's legal to ride on any road that's not a state or federal highway. The group started in town, rode about 30 miles on back roads to the state ORV trail system. Then did about 20 miles on the trails and then headed back via back roads to town.
It had rained for 2 days straight prior, so the trails were one mud hole after another. It was very challenging.
The good...
-It worked fine, never had any kind of issue with it since I bought it.
-It kept up with more expensive machines on the trails. I was the only one with a CCC (Cheap Chinese Crap) machine.
-Fairly comfortable to drive.
-The roof, windshield and rear window kept most of the rain off when it started raining in the afternoon.
-Okay, I cheated. I peeled off the AXIS 500 stickers on each side. Everybody in the group assumed I had a Rhino. They didn't ask, I didn't tell.
The not so good...
-The horsepower rating on the 500-cc engine is 24 hp but it seemed underpowered. While I could go about 35 mph with the pedal to the metal on pavement and hard packed dirt roads the best I could do on loose packed roads was 27 mph. I had trouble keeping up with the others in the group. It also bogs down on inclines in high gear. On the other hand, in low gear and 4wd I didn't have any problems going through mud or sand or up hills.
-It is LOUD! Had to wear shooting earmuffs to keep my ears from ringing while riding. Going to have to address that.
Overall Impression...
I was impressed with it on the trails, and it is a good utility vehicle for working around the property. Considering what I paid for it I am very happy with its performance.
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By camojay
When we first heard the noise, we immediately stopped driving it...at first we thought it might be a linkage issue, but after further inspection looks like the sound/jolting is coming from the rear diff. Took a video below...
Anyone know what is creating the diff to skip/jump like this? We drained the diff oil and didn't look terrible, no metal.
Other info that may be useful:
1400 miles on it
Recently tightened the E brake
P.s. never posted on this forum before, let me know if the video does not work
20240817_133539_1.mp4
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