Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

just an update on my MSU 500 . For all the misery it caused me the first 2 yrs, and the combination of some quality YAMAHA parts, it has now become a reliable ,useful UTV without the constant fear of having to push or tow it back from trails. I have not had a single issue pop up in a very long time.. FINALLY!....and as a side note, I just bought  a C FORCE 600 ATV to replace an old and well used  Honda that finally after 18 yrs gave up a rod bearing.  So far the new one has really impressed me .. I like the new Power Steering and  this CVT Auto Trans is new to me on an ATV .. I m used to constant shifting on my Hondas .  It also has something I have never seen. Its EBS  engine brake system, as soon as you let go of throttle, it engine brakes you to a stop rather quickly.. its great idea for the grandkids safety . Takes a little getting used to tho.. All in all, I like it. We shall see how durable it is after break-in.. I do "RIDE" them! .....and they honor their warrenty! and the dealer is 15 minutes away.. 

  • Like 1
Posted

That's good to hear, Joe. I hope you didn't just jinx yourself 😎. I haven't had to contact Massimo, so I don't know if they really did improve their customer relations.

There was a post here a while back that a guy had discovered that the battery cables were undersized, and he was working with the manufacturer to correct it. I never heard from him again. I can make my own cables, but I don't know what size to use. I'm assuming you don't have any issues with starting your UTV, but with mine it occasionally doesn't want to turn over. If I turn it off, then hit the starter again, it will start. I thought that maybe it was because of the undersized cables.

Anyway, even though I have ribbed you about your Massimo, I'm glad that you're enjoying it.

Posted

never had issues with starting it.. always started right up..and in 5-10 minutes overheated! lol .. All is good now. But it was a nightmare from day one when I had to be towed back to Camp after 15 minutes of driving! Maybe your battery is aging or might not be large enough ? I had a 350CCA battery in mine new.. When it crapped out, I put a Marine Starting 600CCA battery under driver seat and ran new larger and longer cables.  used #6 AWG wires 

Posted

Mine came with a 300cca, which just wasn't doing the job. So I bought a 350cca, which seemed to do the job, but it doesn't seem like it's still turning over fast enough. I remember a post from a member who was aware of the problem and was working on a fix. I could fix it myself, but I don't know what wire guage to go with.

Posted

decompression release problems will give the "stall" and require multiple hits to get it to finally crank over.  Valve adjustment (exhaust) is critical to the decomp pin opening the valve.  Other problem is the actual decomp assy worn or a groove chipped out in the cam follower where the pin rubs at low RPM.  See older post of mine on the decomp assy in the cam....interchangeable with Rhino....identical down to the welds and flyweight interference problem.

Posted
2 hours ago, Ben1098 said:

decompression release problems will give the "stall" and require multiple hits to get it to finally crank over.  Valve adjustment (exhaust) is critical to the decomp pin opening the valve.  Other problem is the actual decomp assy worn or a groove chipped out in the cam follower where the pin rubs at low RPM.  See older post of mine on the decomp assy in the cam....interchangeable with Rhino....identical down to the welds and flyweight interference problem.

Does this particular engine (Linhai 352cc engine) actually have a decompression release? I have a copy of the service manual, and I can't locate anything in the manual about a decompression release. Can you possibly show me where it is located? I'm trying to do as you advised, but I'm jot having any luck locating it.

The issue of hitting the starter a few times isn't a common occurence. This happens about 50% of the time that I start it when cold, especially after it's sat for a few days.

Thanks much!

Posted

My 500 engine has no decompression release , but it spins easily and has always started easily.. that was never an issue..  blown head and head gaskets were the plague that fell upon mine from 1st day I bought it.. for which Massimo refused any warranty reimbursement from first day break down on 

Posted

I cannot find the post....it was for the Massimo (HiSun) 500.  The decompression release is built into the valve train cam.  Remove cam gear round cover and notice the flyweights and stamped timing dots.  The pined disc rotates and the attached rod in the center bore of the valve cam and pushes up a button pin with a cam "flat" on the inside center rod cam in a cam....which hits the exhaust valve follower.  At higher RPM, the flyweights sling out, rotates the cam inside the valve cam, and then the button pin retracts below the cam profile.....full compression.  Yamaha Rhino had same build error as Massimo.....the sets were identical down the the welds and machining tool marks....SAME VENDOR?????  Die grinder work required to obtain the full travel of the flyweights.  One of my HiSun reworked cam/decomp assys was "borrowed" to fix a Rhino.....never to return.

The post covered the rework of flyweights, the wear gouge the button pin takes out of the cam follower, the small rod cam edge that wears round (less button pin lift), the error of adjusting the exhaust valve clearance with the decomp pin raised (up at low RPM thus need to manually rotate flyweights to lower pin button for adjustment OR turn the cam to be sure you are OFF the button...watch the follower for the "jump" coming off the pin).

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Just an update.  It seems once you replace the trash HISUN parts that fail quickly with quality YAmaha pieces, the Massimo is a decent UTV. Mine is still running well. Have had no issues other than park brake cable broke. But I have to say I really like my CF MOTO C Force..Great machine. When my wife will let me ride it!

Posted

😁Never seen my Hondas or my CF Moto run hot ever and after the mods,the Massimo does ok too.  Trails are shady and we usually ride early so WE don't run hot either. Can't wait for November when Summer ends 🤣

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By NC4wd
      Has anyone found a lift kit that fits an Axis 500? Mine is a 2021.
    • By rev6engines
      Black Friday is here, and we’re excited to give our offroad family 20% off on all parts and kits! Whether you're prepping for new trails or just fine-tuning your rig, we've got what you need to keep rolling. Now Is also a great time to upgrade your sled, winter's coming fast!
      If you have any questions or need help finding the right part, feel free to call, text, or email us. We’re here for you!
      Call or Text:
      801) 489-8697
      Email at:
      [email protected]
       
      Happy riding!!! 🤘

    • By Greg Kilgore
      Last year bought a small universal coolant style cab heater. Well I installed it today. Thanks to another member, RangeRider45, and his install
       
      That told in his post the size fitting he used. I got the same fittings plus a few others. And all went kinda smooth. Took a few minutes to get air purged from coolant system. Should have parked on hill with front up in the air. But would have had a hard time working on it.
      I had a variable power switch connected to an overhead cab fan. Never really used the fan that much. And I have to remove the fan to put on my cab enclosure anyway. So I repurposed the switch to supply power for the heater. The heater has 2 12-volt DC computer fans that are rated for 1.8 amps each. So it's not going to be a big drain on the weak charging system. And with the switch I've got great control over the speed of the fans.
      If anyone is interested the radiator hoses are 7/8 inch. I reworked the temperature sending unit (moved it closer to radiator) to make room for all the extra plumbing I did to get the heater to work the way I wanted. 
      Plumbing parts list.
      10-15 worm water clamps. 3/4 to 1 1/4 inch size.
      2 1" x 3/4" x 1" PEX Tee
      1 3/4" PEX ball valve
      1 1" PEX ball valve
      5/8" heater hose. I got 6' and probably have 4' left over.
      I used the radiator house I cut out to use as splices between the PEX fittings. The PEX fittings are not true to their dimensions that are stated on the package. So they fit the 5/8" and 7/8" very nicely.
      They way I have it plumbed is from radiation out side. A tee, then the 1" ball valve, then a Tee. Coming off the Tees are the hoses going to the heater core. There is a 3/4" ball valve on one of the Tees. The ball valves are used to bypass the heater core in the summer. Or direct the hot coolant through the heater core in winter. The temperature sending unit tells me how hot the coolant is. And if anything is getting too hot. The dash also has an idiot light that comes on if the head gets too hot. But doesn't do anything if the radiator gets too hot. There is a temp sensor on the radiator that controls the electrical fan. But if the coolant isn't circulating. That switch never sends a signal to turn on the fan. But enough talking/rambling. Everyone wants to see pics. The only thing I need to change is the orientation of the handle on the 1" ball valve. I have 2" or more clearance between the handle and the tire when cut hard right. But I still don't like it. And instead of taking the valve out and rotating 180°. I'm just going to take the nut off and rotate the handle 180°. Think I need to make a locking mechanism to lock the handles in place so they don't vibrate closed when the machine is moving.
      The temperature sending unit and housing. Size 22 mm. Aluminum from Amazon.

      Upper Tee the lower Tee is identical. Can also see the handle of the 3/4" ball valve on the 5/8" hose going to the heater.

      The 1" ball valve. Goes between the 2 Tees

      Wide view of the plumbing.

      The heater installed in the sxs. The 3 black hoses are just hanging there. Zip ties to the heater but not attached to any thing. Will probably just direct 2 toward the wife's feet. And 1 toward mine. Or what ever is need as the heat is needed on rides. The black hose in passenger floorboard is some 1" hose that is not needed. Don't know what I'll do with it.

       
      I think if I was going to do it again. I'd put some Indian Head gasket dressing or silicone on the 1" side of the PEX fittings. And I may still do that. But I really hate the ideal of introducing air back in the coolant system.
       
      Any questions just ask. It may take a while to answer. But I'll try.
      Ya be good and stay warm over the next few months 
       
      Kilgore.
    • By Hunterman22
      2021 Hisun Axis 500 UTV (From Lowes)
      Will NOT START
      MY apologies if this is to much info just wanted to give yal the most information possible for help.
      I'm a so called diyer. An Electrician by trade 21yrs. I got my S×S from my last job. The contractor purchased this S×S for this specific job brand new, from Lowes. They used it for hauling materials, tools, & a little bit of anything you can think of on an Industrial type job site. 
      I remember getting on the SxS one time & pushed the gas petal all the way to the floor & SxS had very little power. 
      So anyway ,when the job finished up back mid July this year (7/2024) , I asked the contractor what they was going to do with it. I was told to take it. Otherwise it would go to the contractors yard (storage yard) & most likely rust away. 
      Took it home washed it , it had a heavy coat of dust on it & in it dust was every where. My helper & I had to push it on the trailer to get it home.  After washing it throughly I let it sit & dry out for a good day and half, maybe 2 days. Before trying to start it. NO START. Will turn over & try to start but thats it. 
      So here's what I've purchased & installed. New Air Filter, new spark plug, new air idle control valve (AICV), new throttle position sensor, new throttle body, new oxygen sensor, new digital dash speedometer/fuel gauge/clock. 
      Also drained the old oil & gas & replaced with new oil & 93oct. gas. I should probably mention that I've changed the AICV twice. The 1st time I changed the AICV I was able to get the SxS started & let idle for at least 10-15min. Drove out of the garage, with very little power,  turned it around & barely got it back in the garage.That was the one & only time I've been able to start the SxS. I've also cleaned the Throttle Body and & intake with TB cleaner.  So after that the AICV was  making weird noise so I pulled it out & tried cleaning it, pretty sure I messed it up. So I purchased a Throttle Body that came with new AICV & TPS. Still NO START.  I've checked the fuel pump & the fuel injector.  I took the injector off still hooked up to wiring & turned the key over, the injector sprayed a lot of gas out kinda the size of a volleyball. I've also checked the clearance gap on the intake & exhaust valve. But today 11/2/2024 I'm going recheck spark plug gap & the valve gaps. And alot of other checking. Would the driver side seat belt have anything to do with it not starting?? I know the driver side seat belt has to be in gauged for full throttle "going fast". Thing is the drv. side seat belt will latch but feels like might be messed up inside of it. Tired opening it up but to no avail.  I've never had a S×S or 4wheeler so I was really excited when I got the S×S,not so much anymore.  I work on & fix my own vehicles usually no problems.  But this SxS is kicking my ass.
      So if possible & someone could help me with some ideas or tell me what Im doing wrong or did wrong, I would greatly appreciate it.  Thank you for reading thus far.
       
       
    • By CYJSP2009
      Dear Joyner owners
      Any one who is looking for below Joyner parts please send email to casey from Leaf Asia  ( please send to [email protected] and cc to casey2leafasia.biz & [email protected])
      Currently, we have supply below parts: 
      1.  cv axles, cv rebuild kits, cv boots
      2.  Differentials and differential ring and pinion set
      3. Cables, 
      4. Brake parts
      5. Engine parts
      6. Other parts. 
      We will provide better price, close follow up ... 
      We can arrange productioni for parts that we can collect demands from customers  
      Have a good weekend
      Casey /  Leaf Asia 
      2023-11-17
       
×
×
  • Create New...