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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By Homeowner A
Have a Coleman UTV 400 that cranks, runs, drives well until it gets warm and is put under load. Light throttle or full throttle it doesn't bog, but it will cut out mid throttle if you move the pedal quicker than it seems to like for example when you're getting ready to go up a hill, but if you immediately floor it, it will do just fine and not cut out. It's random if and when it's going to do it, but is consistent in that it happens only when hot/full operating temperature. I've replaced the injector twice, same with the spark plug and tried different heat ranges (NGK 7,8 and 8 iridium), replaced the fuel pump, adjusted the valves, checked air filter which is like new, changed the oil, replaced the fuel filter. No check engine light. I don't have a code reader for this. Initially I thought it might have a head or head gasket issue as when I got it, the oil was over full, very runny like water milky and it was smoking. I've changed the oil since then twice to clear and clean everything out, and it seems to be good. Coolant stays the same level and so does oil with no changes in consistency or need for adding more. Had I think 7-9 miles when I got it and now has about 77. What should I try or consider next?
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By weasel
starts up you have keep rpms up for 5 minutes till it warms up then runs fine. But if it stalls wont start unless you unplug fuel pump and hold it to the floor till it starts then plug pump back in and run it till it warms up then it is fine all day.
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By Jim Kessell
2005 American Landmaster
EH65 Subaru Robins
spits fuel from breather hose into the air cleaner and then down into carb. What’s causing this ??
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By Alien10
I have a Coleman Outfitter 550 purchased in January 2022 that runs and operates pretty well. 65 hours on it so far. It is a work vehicle for my 10 hilly acres with two 1 acre woods and 5 acres of "lawn". The rest is under a lake.
My parking brake does not seem to have any grip. It worked when new but after a month or so, it is just almost useless. I press the parking brake pedal hard until it stops. Still, it won't hold even on slight inclines. I don't see the caliper move as I press the brake pedal down. There seems to be plenty of pad left on it and the rotor is shiny as if it is rubbing a little when applied, but not enough to stop it from rolling.
Any thoughts on possible causes?
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