Quantcast
Jump to content


2018 Hisun Strike 550 Backfires on deceleration


Go to solution Solved by y2kbmet,

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'M STILL GETTING BACKFIRE UPON DECELERATION: 2 days ago, Strike was very sluggish, wouldn't make it up a hill. It is EFI with under 200 hrs. Yesterday, I replaced the plug with same exact I took out (NGK-R DR8EA), as it was covered in black soot. I cleaned the MAF with MAF Sensor Cleaner - not sure if I ripped one of the 2 o'rings pullling it out of it it was like that but either way, when I put it back in, it was seriously tight so I don't think that's affecting anything. I cleaned some of the throttle body (without removing it and without touching the flap), with Throttle Body Cleaner - it was kind of dusty. I cleaned the air filter which I replaced just 3 months ago when I did the oil change. All connections seem to be good. I could not find any exhaust leak anywhere. It got dark on me but I took it for a spin last night after putting it all back together and it seems to have it's power back but it's still backfiring when I decelerate quickly. Anybody have a clue what's next or had this issue before? TIA.

20230102_114503.jpg

20230102_114518.jpg

20230102_114522.jpg

20230102_151946.jpg

20230102_152004.jpg

Posted

There's no MAF it's a MAP/intake air temp (pressure as opposed to flow) sensor. I would replace that torn up o-ring and lightly lube them with silicone grease (avoid regular petroleum based grease as it can cause the rubber to swell)

Since you've already replaced the plug and checked the air filter, have you ever checked the valve lash? I would start there. If the valve lash is in spec I would check the injector next, it may be partially plugged.

It's also possible you have a sensor feeding bad info into the ECU which would effect fuel mapping, like the sensor noted above, but aside from fixing the orings that will be harder to track down.

Posted
15 hours ago, aefron88 said:

There's no MAF it's a MAP/intake air temp (pressure as opposed to flow) sensor. I would replace that torn up o-ring and lightly lube them with silicone grease (avoid regular petroleum based grease as it can cause the rubber to swell)

Since you've already replaced the plug and checked the air filter, have you ever checked the valve lash? I would start there. If the valve lash is in spec I would check the injector next, it may be partially plugged.

It's also possible you have a sensor feeding bad info into the ECU which would effect fuel mapping, like the sensor noted above, but aside from fixing the orings that will be harder to track down.

Thanks for the info! Just ordered the o'rings, new fuel injector and inline filter. Will check the valve lash and then put these in this weekend and see which one does the trick. Fingers crossed! Thx again!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 1/6/2023 at 6:20 PM, Savage3 said:

Decel pop is usually a result of unburnt fuel in chamber.

Your air fuel ratio is off

Or an air leak in the exhaust system.  But that would not create lost power and dirty spark plug.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 2/5/2023 at 4:57 PM, lincolnsq175 said:

Check your valve clearence i bet its off.

I am going to do that but I'll have to look at how to as this is the first UTV I've owned. Bought it used and now wish I would have just spent the money on a new one. Anyway, here's where I'm at with this since I've been out of pocket for so long due to surgery on my arm.  I've changed the spark plug and it ran better but it's still doing it and running poorly. So, I went ahead and ordered an O-ring set to fix the MAP as recommended above and I've ordered a new fuel injector.  My arm should be recovered in about a week so that I can do the work. I'll do the MAP, Fuel Injector and then check the valve clearance and update everyone then. I wish this darn thing wasn't so hard to get into and work on. If you're not familiar with this model, it includes removal of both seats and the entire console - pain in the rear. Thanks a million for the advice. If you have any links or info on how to check the valve clearance, it'd be much appreciated! 

  • 1 month later...
  • Solution
Posted

Update with the final fix. New Spark Plug installed but it still backfired. New Fuel Injector and new MAP installed - Problem solved. Had to do both at the same time b/c the unit is so hard to get in to.  If I were a guessing man, since I was able to start it up and rev it after installing the fuel injector, that was more than likely the problem but I installed a new MAP anyway. The old fuel injector was pretty ugly / dirty.  Hope this helps and thanks to all who chimed in.  

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By bms stallion owner
      hello, my BMS Stallion 600 is having accleration issues. the manual fails to show final gear oil diagrams very well... I have the owners manual and suspect issue is associated to transmission , I want to check the level of the gearoil. I located a drain plug (but not the fill plug nor dipstick). It will run - but wont exceede 2mph. Troubleshooting suggestions or comprehensive manual suggestions? Thanks
    • By Homeowner A
      Have a Coleman UTV 400 that cranks, runs, drives well until it gets warm and is put under load.  Light throttle or full throttle it doesn't bog, but it will cut out mid throttle if you move the pedal quicker than it seems to like for example when you're getting ready to go up a hill, but if you immediately floor it, it will do just fine and not cut out.  It's random if and when it's going to do it, but is consistent in that it happens only when hot/full operating temperature.  I've replaced the injector twice, same with the spark plug and tried different heat ranges (NGK 7,8 and 8 iridium), replaced the fuel pump, adjusted the valves, checked air filter which is like new, changed the oil, replaced the fuel filter.  No check engine light.  I don't have a code reader for this.  Initially I thought it might have a head or head gasket issue as when I got it, the oil was over full, very runny like water milky and it was smoking.  I've changed the oil since then twice to clear and clean everything out, and it seems to be good.  Coolant stays the same level and so does oil with no changes in consistency or need for adding more. Had I think 7-9 miles when I got it and now has about 77.  What should I try or consider next?  
    • By Roadstar515
      Just wondering if mine is the only one that’s seems very loud while driving. It just seems louder that other brands I’m use to. I guess you get what you pay for I’m assuming.
      Regards, Rick
    • By allinone
      Recently purchased 2nd hand not going Crossfire GT400 (Australian branded name?) 2020 model.  Has some issues what would be the best forum to pose questions.
      Thanks
    • By JimG
      Recently, my unit Axis 500 (2020) will only go into reverse and neutral. I am not able to get high or low. The engine itself sounds fine and I do not have other issues on this unit. I change the engine oil but have not yet changed the gear oil.
      Before this happened I occasionally encountered issue where going from reverse to high gear, it would grind some and i had to reposition to shift into high gear. I also for last couple weeks heard a squeaking sound. I couldn't tell what it was. Was looking for a grease point I missed.
      The unit has around 70 hours and is kept in the garage.
      Anyone else encounter this type of scenario? Any suggestions on troubleshooting would be appreciated. Thanks.
×
×
  • Create New...