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By JSwearer
Does anyone have any suggestions for aftermarket shocks. I have a T-Boss 550 and took it riding in some rough trails and the stock suspension was uncomfortably rough.
Thanks
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By Greg Kilgore
Last year bought a small universal coolant style cab heater. Well I installed it today. Thanks to another member, RangeRider45, and his install
That told in his post the size fitting he used. I got the same fittings plus a few others. And all went kinda smooth. Took a few minutes to get air purged from coolant system. Should have parked on hill with front up in the air. But would have had a hard time working on it.
I had a variable power switch connected to an overhead cab fan. Never really used the fan that much. And I have to remove the fan to put on my cab enclosure anyway. So I repurposed the switch to supply power for the heater. The heater has 2 12-volt DC computer fans that are rated for 1.8 amps each. So it's not going to be a big drain on the weak charging system. And with the switch I've got great control over the speed of the fans.
If anyone is interested the radiator hoses are 7/8 inch. I reworked the temperature sending unit (moved it closer to radiator) to make room for all the extra plumbing I did to get the heater to work the way I wanted.
Plumbing parts list.
10-15 worm water clamps. 3/4 to 1 1/4 inch size.
2 1" x 3/4" x 1" PEX Tee
1 3/4" PEX ball valve
1 1" PEX ball valve
5/8" heater hose. I got 6' and probably have 4' left over.
I used the radiator house I cut out to use as splices between the PEX fittings. The PEX fittings are not true to their dimensions that are stated on the package. So they fit the 5/8" and 7/8" very nicely.
They way I have it plumbed is from radiation out side. A tee, then the 1" ball valve, then a Tee. Coming off the Tees are the hoses going to the heater core. There is a 3/4" ball valve on one of the Tees. The ball valves are used to bypass the heater core in the summer. Or direct the hot coolant through the heater core in winter. The temperature sending unit tells me how hot the coolant is. And if anything is getting too hot. The dash also has an idiot light that comes on if the head gets too hot. But doesn't do anything if the radiator gets too hot. There is a temp sensor on the radiator that controls the electrical fan. But if the coolant isn't circulating. That switch never sends a signal to turn on the fan. But enough talking/rambling. Everyone wants to see pics. The only thing I need to change is the orientation of the handle on the 1" ball valve. I have 2" or more clearance between the handle and the tire when cut hard right. But I still don't like it. And instead of taking the valve out and rotating 180°. I'm just going to take the nut off and rotate the handle 180°. Think I need to make a locking mechanism to lock the handles in place so they don't vibrate closed when the machine is moving.
The temperature sending unit and housing. Size 22 mm. Aluminum from Amazon.
Upper Tee the lower Tee is identical. Can also see the handle of the 3/4" ball valve on the 5/8" hose going to the heater.
The 1" ball valve. Goes between the 2 Tees
Wide view of the plumbing.
The heater installed in the sxs. The 3 black hoses are just hanging there. Zip ties to the heater but not attached to any thing. Will probably just direct 2 toward the wife's feet. And 1 toward mine. Or what ever is need as the heat is needed on rides. The black hose in passenger floorboard is some 1" hose that is not needed. Don't know what I'll do with it.
I think if I was going to do it again. I'd put some Indian Head gasket dressing or silicone on the 1" side of the PEX fittings. And I may still do that. But I really hate the ideal of introducing air back in the coolant system.
Any questions just ask. It may take a while to answer. But I'll try.
Ya be good and stay warm over the next few months
Kilgore.
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By Eagle Mountain Outfitters
Our R&D team just finished the first unit and wanted to show you guys. Need more cargo space without losing the functionality of being able to fold down the seat to use the full bed? Eagle Mountain Outfitters, the maker of the original metal UTV roof, has designed a foldable rear cargo basket to meet your needs. Price is $625 + $30 shipping. If you have any question's, please reach out to me at [email protected]
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By tskm
in desperate need of a rear differential for my 2014 wildcat 1000. It has blown up right in the midst of the hurricane that struck us here in N/W N.C. I could really use this machine right now. No luck finding this from Artic Cat or the many numerous online vendors. Any info or resources wil be greatly appreciated !
Tom
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By Xov
Just received delivery of a 2024 AMP Pro. Thought I'd start a thread with my impressions as I use it and learn more. There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of real-world usage information out there on this model. Hope this will help others as they research.
Intended Use Cases
Fire mitigation / slash removal from a 5 acre forested and well-gamble-oaked property. The previous owners thought as much about fire mitigation as I do about fashion: not much. Snow removal Stump pulling General hauling (rock, lumber, etc.) Weimaraner energy depletion. Wasn't an original use case, but a nice added bonus. Experiences So Far
Wasn't impressed that two of the bumpers on the underside of the bed where it sits upon the frame were missing. The metal on metal contact has damaged the powder coating and the frame. I expect a little better QC.
I've only put a few hours on it, so not a ton to report on usage. It isn't quiet; it's silent. I can't even detect an electric note from the motor. I removed (and subsequently replaced) the motor cover noticed that the motor is German and made by Schambuller. The motor controller is Italian and made by Dana TM4. Given the operating specs of both I found on the web, I suspect both are higher quality than the previous Navitas (which is supposed to be decent). The motor is rated at 25 hp and 71.5 lb-ft of torque. It feels very powerful. All the torque is delivered instantly, if desired.
The bed is huge and has an electric dump as standard. Great feature but would like it to go up a bit more. Probably not feasible from an engineering perspective, but I want and I need ;).
Power steering is nice, but vague. Probably common to many UTVs, but I am accustomed to more direct results from input. Plan early and plan often.
In our first full day of usage, we hauled about 1/2 as much slash as the entire rest of the year when I was doing it by hand cart. I may get fatter, but I'll also get more done. After a few days of usage, the battery meter has gone down by 1/10th.
Until next time...
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