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By Cory J
Belt started slipping when I used it in high gear. It works okay in low unless I'm trying to power it up a hill and then it slips.., Ordered a new belt and went to change it and found a good bit of oil in the belt housing. Has anyone experienced this? Belt looks fine. Only have 300 miles on this thing..
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By A P
Hi
I have a 2022 hisun sector eps 550. 30amp fuse is blown for eps. Checked the motor and it’s fine. Opened up the controller and found a bad diode. Dealer wanted 500$ for the controller. Just posting this in case it helps someone. I couldn’t read numbers from the old one so just took a guess and replaced it with a 100v 3amp diode.
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By mark walkom
the regen braking on my e1 has stopped working unless (for eg) I am going down a hill in low and it's slowing things down to stick to the 10kph limit. when I drive and take my foot off the accelerator it's not initiating the regen to slow things down and instead just coasts at whatever speed it is at, or speeds up as the regen is not limiting it. the brake lights work, so it's probably not a fault with the sensor on the brake pedal
hoping someone else might be able to provide some suggestions on things to check, as the mob that I bought it off seem to have gone silent on me
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By Chucky 1
I purchased a new 2023 Landmaster UTV L4 in October of 2023. UTV didn't seem to have as much power of the demo L4 that I drove but figured once it broke in it would be better. After about a week the unit started bogging down backfiring and stopping. Gas fumes really bad, wait a few minutes and it would start up again. Brought it back to the dealer and after keeping it for a few weeks said he couldn't find anything wrong with it. Got it back home and it started acting up again, brought it back to dealer a week later and he said he found couple things that might cause it to do run bad and he was able to replicate the issue but didn't really know what was wrong. Got it back home again after being at dealer for several weeks and the unit started running bad again right away. Brought it back to dealer and he went back and forth with Kohler about possible fixes but just checked somethings and try to swap a few parts but still runs bad. I called Landmaster HQ to speak with someone about a refund and was told that was handled at the dealer level. Dealer called Landmaster and they told him they didn't do refunds or exchanges especially with units that had problems. The dealer is now trying to get a new engine to but I have not heard anything as of yet. I did file complaint with Better Business Bureau and they accepted my claim and reached out to Landmaster. The National Service Manager called me and said the he had been contacted by the BBB about the complaint and he would look into it. I told him that I would just like to have my down payment of $2,000.00 returned and never mind the over $1,000.00 I have paid in notes for a UTV that I cannot even ride on without hoping it gets me around the neighborhood. I have found out that the 2024 Landmaster UTVs will have Vanguard engines due to issues with the Kohler engines. Very disappointed in what is "Proudly Made in the USA" and the way Landmaster has treated this disabled veteran!
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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