Quantcast
Jump to content


Fuel Tank Leak

Hammerdn

By Hammerdn
in Joyner UTV SxS Forum

 Share

Recommended Posts

Hammerdn Contributor

Hammerdn

Posted
Posted

Pulled fuel tank out today. Had small leak all week,tightened all fittings. Went for a ride and by the time I came back leak was a lot worse. So I drained what gas I had left and pulled the tank. Upon first inspection really did'nt see anything obvious except for a spot where one of the frame tubes had been rubbing on the tank right at the sump. Didn't seem to be any holes worn thru. Filled the tank with water and did an inspection. No leaks where it had been rubbing but it was leaking somewhere. Finally after rotateing the tank around and letting it sit a few minutes in each position finally found it. It was on the bottom front weld seam. When looking at it you can't tell that the weld is not complete, but when you add liquid to it you can see it seep out. It just puzzle's me that it hasn't started leaking sooner. Then I guess it has since I could smell gas from day that I bought it. I guess it was so small that it didn't leave any drops on the ground until now.

Now comes the flushing and airing out proccess before I start tig welding on it.

I guess this will be a good time to add some weld to the brackets and add some foam strips to the brackets and braces and a other place it might rub or come in contact with anything and it should add to the sound deading and vibrations.

Anything else I might want to do while I have the tank out?????

Just wanted fellow Troopers to know where to look in case they have a mystirious fuel leak they can't find.

Hammerdn

rocmoc Grand Master

rocmoc

Posted
Posted

If you have never welded on a tank there are two lines of thought. Fill the tank with CO2 or soapy water. You can just weld an empty tank. Be really really careful. I have done it a couple of times but always nervous when I did it.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Hammerdn Contributor

Hammerdn

Posted
  • Author
Posted
If you have never welded on a tank there are two lines of thought. Fill the tank with CO2 or soapy water. You can just weld an empty tank. Be really really careful. I have done it a couple of times but always nervous when I did it.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Thanks for the advise. I was planinnig on purging the tank with straight Argon but CO2 would be a better option. Have done it before without any problems, but there is always a first.

Hammerdn

Guest Lenny

Guest Lenny

Posted
Posted

I always run a fan blowing into the the large hole in the tank for a three or four hours. Have the filler cap off and make sure you can feel air comming out of all the other openings. Afterwards, if I can't smell any gas, I know I'm good. Don't let it set around though, gas could seep out of a crevis and create a fuel/air combo in the tank. If it sets, re-fan it. If you haven't added a sump to your tank to prevent you from running out of gas when going down hill, you may want to consider that too. Look at past threads for the various fixes used.

Lenny

Hammerdn Contributor

Hammerdn

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I always run a fan blowing into the the large hole in the tank for a three or four hours. Have the filler cap off and make sure you can feel air comming out of all the other openings. Afterwards, if I can't smell any gas, I know I'm good. Don't let it set around though, gas could seep out of a crevis and create a fuel/air combo in the tank. If it sets, re-fan it. If you haven't added a sump to your tank to prevent you from running out of gas when going down hill, you may want to consider that too. Look at past threads for the various fixes used.

Lenny

Was looking at the option of putting in a front sump and also found a fuel cell that would fit into the space where the storage box is under the driver seat for a auxilary tank for more fuel cap.

Hammerdn

Guest Lenny

Guest Lenny

Posted
Posted
Was looking at the option of putting in a front sump and also found a fuel cell that would fit into the space where the storage box is under the driver seat for a auxilary tank for more fuel cap.

Hammerdn

Running a line out the back of the tank and the front also, if hooked up to the same pump, won't work. It will always draw from the source with the least resistance which is the fitting above the fuel line.

Hammerdn Contributor

Hammerdn

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Remember seeing a post on adding a sump to the fuel tank but can't find it. Can't remember if you installed check valves at each end or not . Seems to me it would be the wise thing to do, to keep from sucking in air.

Guest Lenny

Guest Lenny

Posted
Posted
Remember seeing a post on adding a sump to the fuel tank but can't find it. Can't remember if you installed check valves at each end or not . Seems to me it would be the wise thing to do, to keep from sucking in air.

Go here and read the entire set of post, about 6-7 pages worth. You will get the blow by blow of the gas tank issue with various fixes and lots of pics. Rocmoc and myself have added central tank bottom sumps and Kinarfi added a second sourcing canister.

http://www.utvboard.com/Fuel-Tanks-and-Mods-t629.html

Lenny

ksimpsy Enthusiast

ksimpsy

Posted
Posted

I had my tank out and I cut off the stock mounts and welded on a full piece of angle but 3/4" higher so i could put in vibration isolators. I also put an extension on the filler neck so I could fill it with a jerrycan. I have an old tank, i guess the new tanks already have the long filler spout.

Kevin

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Topics

    • weasel
      Coleman 400 UTV fuel issue
      By weasel
      starts up you have keep rpms up for 5 minutes till it warms up then runs fine. But if it stalls wont start unless you unplug fuel pump and hold it to the floor till it starts then plug pump back in and run it till it warms up then it is fine all day.
    • Jim Kessell
      EH65 spitting fuel from breather hose into air filter.
      By Jim Kessell
      2005 American Landmaster
      EH65 Subaru Robins
      spits fuel from breather hose into the air cleaner and then down into carb.  What’s causing this ??
    • Greg Kilgore
      Travel time question
      By Greg Kilgore
      I would really like to know what you guys think about this. I'll try not to ramble and make it as clear as I can.
       
      I took this new job with companyX as a fiber splicer a year ago. I have a 45' bucket truck and 10or12 x 8 ft enclosed splice trailer I have to take home. Within the last 6 months all the management in the splice dept left. Now the power/construction management and higher ups are filling in. Just recently we were told travel to our 1st job is not payable even though we are in a company vehicle. 
      We are union so I asked the union business manager about this. His reply was be grateful you were paid travel as long as you were and that you don't have to drive your POV to the job.
       
      Last week I had 50hr total. The job area is 4-4.5 hrs away. My time was reduced to 44.5 hrs since we were told this travel thing on Tuesday of that week. I wasn't hired for this area. I was hired for area a lot closer to home. 
       
      Pay is good. Work is not hard. Insurance is through the union and so far pretty good.
      But I hate the thought of having to work extra just to make a 40hr paycheck. Anyone who has to drive as part of their job knows windshield time is not easy.
       
      Anyway what do you guys think. Should I look for a different job or just suck it up because of the decent pay and health insurance.
    • Homeowner A
      Where to ride DFW TX area?
      By Homeowner A
      Any info would be appreciated as to where around Midlothian TX DFW area that I could take my own UTV to ride. I’ve done some google searches but am coming up short. Thanks
    • BMurph
      Please help 2021 Axis 750 crew won't shift into gear and found milky oil on inspection
      By BMurph
      Hello everyone! I am new here and have no experience with UTVs but I am quickly getting some. I have a shifting problem where I can shift through all gears without the engine running but as soon as I start the engine I can not select a gear. Yes, foot is on the brake and yes the pin is being pulled to go into reverse if I was to try going into reverse. The shift lever does not move. I adjusted the linkage to get more accurate shifting with the engine off so I know those are now correct. I opened the shift lever housing to inspect the teeth on the gear and found this picture below. Why is this oil so milky looking? I assume with oil like this I'll need to replace the wet clutch as well but am not positive. Does anyone have any input into how to flush this system and get things shifting correctly? Thanks in advance for all the help!

UTV FORUMS

MORE SECTIONS

FOLLOW US ON

GET IN TOUCH

  • Automotive Webmaster
×
×
  • Create New...