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By rev6engines
Black Friday is here, and we’re excited to give our offroad family 20% off on all parts and kits! Whether you're prepping for new trails or just fine-tuning your rig, we've got what you need to keep rolling. Now Is also a great time to upgrade your sled, winter's coming fast!
If you have any questions or need help finding the right part, feel free to call, text, or email us. We’re here for you!
Call or Text:
801) 489-8697
Email at:
[email protected]
Happy riding!!! 🤘
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By Will Sutton
I've got a 2023 UT400 (bought from tractor supply) and I've been beating my head against a wall with it.
It will start and idle perfectly. The second I touch the throttle it sputters and dies.
I've checked that the fuel pump is working (it is).
I've replaced the injector, throttle position sensor, O2 sensor, and intake air sensor. All with no change.
I've just taken a look a the schematic, and there is a crank position sensor as well.
Could this be the source of my troubles? If so, where is this thing located? I can't seem to find it on any drawings from the parts suppliers.
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By redneckred
I have a 2012 Bennche Bighorn 700X. I bought it used. It had been sitting in a field for several years untouched. I put a new sun gear in the shifter, new shifter linkage due to the old one having been patched, and a new battery (and of course fresh fuel). The machine cranked and ran beautifully. I had it over a year and then the machine quit running. As it would not stay cranked, I narrowed the problem down to a bad IAC valve. I replaced it and it ran as good as new/old. Fast forward, the machine started to act like reverse wasn't catching and would not always back up when in gear. Then forward quit. I assumed a bad CVT belt and got one. Started removing the bolts from the cover and (3) just turn in the housing without coming loose. (2) are on the bottom, so very little room to do anything with them. I tried cranking the machine again to see the belt move since I can move the cover enough to see the belt and now the machine will not crank. It turns over fine. It gets gas to the injector and has spark. I can spray cleaner down her throat and she would run until it ran out. I have replaced the IAC twice and put a new injector with no change. I went out and put the old injector back in to see if that made any difference and, well, it did. I tried to crank the machine and the starter is stuck trying to turn the machine over even with the key off. I have to disconnect the battery to stop it. Before I shoot this thing, what am I missing? Is this an ECM problem or something else I am not seeing? Been dealing with these Gremlins for over a month now and weeds are starting to overtake the motor due to it not moving. I would love to get the thing running first and any ideas of getting those CVT cover bolts out would be extremely helpful. Thanks in advance.
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By Kingfish
The conversion took about 350lbs. off the vehicle. It never rode great, but now I feel every crack in the road. I have backed off spring compression nut to the point just under where they would move around if suspension was at full extension, but it is still very stiff. I would like to put some softer coilover springs on it, but I have no idea what the spring rate is with the original springs so I would just be guessing on what to order. Does anyone have the data for the original spring compression rate? I am willing to give up a little ground clearance for a softer ride. Right now when sitting still the rear suspension is at or near full extension and the rear tires have several degrees of camber which will cause uneven wear if allowed to continue in this state.
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