Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi there,

 

My name is Vern and im in Alaska. I have a 2019 ranger 1000 xp HL crew. So the machine had zero issues with clutch or shifting. then the belt blew. i got the new Polaris belt installed with no issues. i cleaned everything and made sure all belt debris was removed. installed new belt.  now it lurches in gear and is hard to shift if at all. when i insert clutch spacing tool in secondary and relieve belt pressure then in shifts when off no problem. the secondary is spinning fast when in park or neutral. i did try adding and removing shims from secondary also without any change.  the primary moves in and out without issue. it appears there is no issue with primary or secondary. im stumped. can u help please.

Posted

ENGINE OFF.  Look at primary (PRI) pulley.....does the belt fit "tight" and rubs on the slider sheave......this is what makes the secondary (SEC) pulley spin in neutral.  Manually spin the SEC pulley.....does it bind and drag at the PRI pulley? 

Options for the problem:

Some aftermarket belts are cut wrong and the inside groves do NOT match the pulley groves and/or the number of groves are different than the pulley groves.  Count both groves and location.

The PRI pulley is NOT opening wide enough.  Did the belt shred with strings?  Sometimes the strings (cords) get UNDER the sliding sheave and bind....keeping the PRI pulley from opening wide enough.

Mechanical wear on the slinger weights, the pins, slides, bad rub wear spots inside...requires PRI tear down and tools.

Remove belt and hand squeeze the PRI sheave.....no binds and pops back to the idle position with a clunk at the stop.

Start motor (no belt installed)  rev up and watch the PRI sheave movement.  Should close up and then slam back at idle.

Posted

Don't know about the ranger. But when I changed the belt on my cfmoto. Once everything was back together I had to spin the secondary sheave backwards 4 or 5 turns. To tighten the belt on the sheaves.

When the belt went out it shredded and bits of cord and rubber was in the primary sheave. Had to clean that out.

Also use a green sos pad to scuff up the sheaves.

 

That's all I got. Best of luck and keep us posted on the progress.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By JimG
      Recently, my unit Axis 500 (2020) will only go into reverse and neutral. I am not able to get high or low. The engine itself sounds fine and I do not have other issues on this unit. I change the engine oil but have not yet changed the gear oil.
      Before this happened I occasionally encountered issue where going from reverse to high gear, it would grind some and i had to reposition to shift into high gear. I also for last couple weeks heard a squeaking sound. I couldn't tell what it was. Was looking for a grease point I missed.
      The unit has around 70 hours and is kept in the garage.
      Anyone else encounter this type of scenario? Any suggestions on troubleshooting would be appreciated. Thanks.
    • By Alien10
      I use my Hisun 550 (with the Coleman stickers), for general work around my 10 acres of hilly land. Hauling firewood, some dirt and mulch, and debris clean up. Also felling dead standing trees in the woods and hauling rounds out to the barn for splitting/stacking.
      Here's my question:  Those who use their UTVs with towed drag implements or snow plows, have you noticed any issues with early clutch slippage or failures?  Or premature belt wear?  Other drive line issues??
      Thanks in advance for any experienced thoughts and comments. 
       
    • By JDawg
      Was using the machine all day to haul wood...no issues until the end...
      When I try to start it, the dash lights come on but starter does not...seems like no power to the starter.
      It is in park, but when I put the brake on to start, it registers N.
      Won't start in neutral either...
      Tried rocking it, did not help...
      Help...
    • By Cory J
      Belt started slipping when I used it in high gear. It works okay in low unless I'm trying to power it up a hill and then it slips.., Ordered a new belt and went to change it and found a good bit of oil in the belt housing. Has anyone experienced this? Belt looks fine. Only have 300 miles on this thing..
    • eManualonline.com Save 30% OFF Sitewide, Use code: XMAS30
    • By Greg Kilgore
      Last year bought a small universal coolant style cab heater. Well I installed it today. Thanks to another member, RangeRider45, and his install
       
      That told in his post the size fitting he used. I got the same fittings plus a few others. And all went kinda smooth. Took a few minutes to get air purged from coolant system. Should have parked on hill with front up in the air. But would have had a hard time working on it.
      I had a variable power switch connected to an overhead cab fan. Never really used the fan that much. And I have to remove the fan to put on my cab enclosure anyway. So I repurposed the switch to supply power for the heater. The heater has 2 12-volt DC computer fans that are rated for 1.8 amps each. So it's not going to be a big drain on the weak charging system. And with the switch I've got great control over the speed of the fans.
      If anyone is interested the radiator hoses are 7/8 inch. I reworked the temperature sending unit (moved it closer to radiator) to make room for all the extra plumbing I did to get the heater to work the way I wanted. 
      Plumbing parts list.
      10-15 worm water clamps. 3/4 to 1 1/4 inch size.
      2 1" x 3/4" x 1" PEX Tee
      1 3/4" PEX ball valve
      1 1" PEX ball valve
      5/8" heater hose. I got 6' and probably have 4' left over.
      I used the radiator house I cut out to use as splices between the PEX fittings. The PEX fittings are not true to their dimensions that are stated on the package. So they fit the 5/8" and 7/8" very nicely.
      They way I have it plumbed is from radiation out side. A tee, then the 1" ball valve, then a Tee. Coming off the Tees are the hoses going to the heater core. There is a 3/4" ball valve on one of the Tees. The ball valves are used to bypass the heater core in the summer. Or direct the hot coolant through the heater core in winter. The temperature sending unit tells me how hot the coolant is. And if anything is getting too hot. The dash also has an idiot light that comes on if the head gets too hot. But doesn't do anything if the radiator gets too hot. There is a temp sensor on the radiator that controls the electrical fan. But if the coolant isn't circulating. That switch never sends a signal to turn on the fan. But enough talking/rambling. Everyone wants to see pics. The only thing I need to change is the orientation of the handle on the 1" ball valve. I have 2" or more clearance between the handle and the tire when cut hard right. But I still don't like it. And instead of taking the valve out and rotating 180°. I'm just going to take the nut off and rotate the handle 180°. Think I need to make a locking mechanism to lock the handles in place so they don't vibrate closed when the machine is moving.
      The temperature sending unit and housing. Size 22 mm. Aluminum from Amazon.

      Upper Tee the lower Tee is identical. Can also see the handle of the 3/4" ball valve on the 5/8" hose going to the heater.

      The 1" ball valve. Goes between the 2 Tees

      Wide view of the plumbing.

      The heater installed in the sxs. The 3 black hoses are just hanging there. Zip ties to the heater but not attached to any thing. Will probably just direct 2 toward the wife's feet. And 1 toward mine. Or what ever is need as the heat is needed on rides. The black hose in passenger floorboard is some 1" hose that is not needed. Don't know what I'll do with it.

       
      I think if I was going to do it again. I'd put some Indian Head gasket dressing or silicone on the 1" side of the PEX fittings. And I may still do that. But I really hate the ideal of introducing air back in the coolant system.
       
      Any questions just ask. It may take a while to answer. But I'll try.
      Ya be good and stay warm over the next few months 
       
      Kilgore.
×
×
  • Create New...