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By SouthernGypsy
We have a 2018 Cub Cadet Challenger 400 and I found this Internally Threaded Bolt with a 10mm head size laying in the floor of the shop bay here on our ranch where we park the Cub Cadet.
Trying to figure out where it belongs...
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By Josh5696
So I've got a 2022 Axis 500 UTV with only 50 miles on the odometer. It seems to have a strange grinding/squeeling noise coming from the clutch when decelerating or going down hill at lower speeds. Did some research, and found out this is apparently a fairly common thing. Alot of sources suggest the one way bearing is responsible. I'm hearing about quite a few horror stories about these bearings going bad on practically new machines, and when they replace the bearing it goes bad again shortly after.
Has anyone come up with a solid fix for this? I've read it may be possible to run the UTV without the bearing at all, is that true? Are the $20 replacement bearings from eBay and Amazon complete garbage, and is there a better one way bearing out there that's built stronger? Is there something else causing this bearing to wear out faster, or is the stock bearing complete junk?
Any input is appreciated, thanks in advance!
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By REDfletching
Spent today at a Honda dealership looking at their 520 side by side, then on the way home past our Lowes noticed they had several new UTVs on site, so we U-turned and ducked in there. We were impressed that all that came for $9,999 metal whole length skid plate, nice sized bed, roof, windshield, side mirrors, winch, upgrade looking tires… all of which would have added thousands of dollars to an already expensive Honda 520. Now Honda does have a great reputation from my trusted UTV experienced buddy, so it has that going for it.
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