Power-loss
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Similar Topics
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By Croppy38
I own a 2017 Challenger 750 and had the key way snap at the flywheel. It was removed and cleaned up and then the flywheel was put back on with a new keyway. It snapped a second time so the flywheel and keyway both were replaced. They both seem to fit nice and tight. Put it all back together and it snapped again. I have no idea why it is doing this.
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By Bryan g
We see a lot of the UT400 with shift problems, not going into gear, popping out of gear, grinding etc. There is a bulletin Im sure everyone has saw about adjusting shift cable. That dont always fix it. I went round n round with coleman on couple units. We are a Coleman warranty repair center"AFS Small Engine Repair " I told them shift lever does not have enough travel . No amount of cable adjustment will increase travel . I extended lever with piece on flat iron by 3/4 of inch . This gave shifter enough travel to properly engage into gear completely . Last couple units to come in for this Coleman sent me a modified shift lever, with longer travel . Problem solved! Also , heads up if you get any new unit ,,,go over and check it out, grease all zerks, check air filter for being in backwards, check wiring harnesses for rubbing on rotating parts, brake hose routing , make sure not touching exhaust . These are just few of the more common failures I see .
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By Dennis
I have a bulldog i bought from home depot in 2013. In the last season it started refusing to shift from neutral to either forward or reverse. I changed the trans axle fluid and made sure the cables were lubricated and free. With a lot of coaxing, I can sometimes get it to shift. once I start driving it, things improve until I let it set awhile. Any suggestion on where to go from here?
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By camojay
When we first heard the noise, we immediately stopped driving it...at first we thought it might be a linkage issue, but after further inspection looks like the sound/jolting is coming from the rear diff. Took a video below...
Anyone know what is creating the diff to skip/jump like this? We drained the diff oil and didn't look terrible, no metal.
Other info that may be useful:
1400 miles on it
Recently tightened the E brake
P.s. never posted on this forum before, let me know if the video does not work
20240817_133539_1.mp4
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